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Found 137 results

  1. Finished this matching combination sheath and riggers ditty bag all in Leather & 18oz duck canvas with brass rivets and Ds. Oil dyed veg tan for the sheath and oil dyed goat for the bag. What do ya reckon?
  2. Hi all Something a bit different to the Western stuff I normally post here, and quite photo intensive i'm afraid... This is a batch of late medieval knives and sheaths, which as a very general outline date between 1300-1500 depending on the piece. The sheaths for these are all 2mm veg tan, with a back central seam and tooling inspired by originals. The main source of reference was 'knives and scabbards', which catalogues pieces found in the Thames. The two larger knives have double layered scabbards, which is a necessity as the hunting set is multi pocketed with effectively three sheaths bundled together, and the larger messer has an integrated belt. None of them have belt loops in the modern sense, but are instead suspended by hanging thongs, which are laced through slits in the back and seems to be the universal carrying method for this kind of knife. I had to go against all of my instincts with the tooling on these in an attempt for authenticity, so nothing is measured or plotted out in the way I would do a modern belt, and likewise the dyeing is much more straightforward, without the antiquing effects that would be used now. I have focused mainly on the sheaths here as this is a leatherwork forum afterall, but for anyone interested in the knives themselves they are all hand forged from 1080 or 1075 carbon steel, with either brass or steel bolsters and handles made from various native woods, which include yew, laburnum, walnut and apple. I hope you like them! Alex
  3. Hello everyone! I have come for advice. I have never worked with leather before and started looking into leather craft when I bought a grass shear (The Corona GS 6750) but did not come with a sheath/hostler, making it next to useless for me. I have watched a few hours of Youtube videos of folks designing templates and wet forming. I took a crack at drawing a design for a belt hostler that I would like to make for my shears. My question: The shears won't sit flat in the holster due to an angle between the cutting end and the handles. Is there a way I can make a better fit when I wet mold? Also, any tips/tricks for building a belt holster for a tool with this kind of shape would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Finished this up the other day, WC 8oz, medium brown Eco Flo gel antique, sewn with tiger thread. I think it turned out great!
  5. Here's a pancake knife sheath I did a while ago for a friend. 6-8 oz. Veg tan. Ryan
  6. Hi all, Here are a pair of kitchen knives and sheaths, made as Christmas presents for my parents. Originally I had planned for them to have different sheaths but simply ran out of time to design something new, so they are the same except for a subtle colour change on the borders. For an outdoor belt knife I would have added a welt or put the seam down the centre on the back, but as this is just to protect the edge while they sit in a drawer or something I think the simpler design shouldn't be a problem and I doubt there is much chance of them slicing through the stitches. The tooling is of course some Western swirly acanthus stuff, and due to the lack of belt loops is on both sides. Stitching is by hand and is with waxed linen. For anyone interested in the knives themselves, they are both hand forged from 1080 high carbon steel, with cocobolo grips and sheet brass bolsters which extend down the tang. A little more time would have been preferable really but overall quite happy with the end results. I hope you like them and Happy Christmas everyone! Alex
  7. The knife is called Volunteer Cleaver and is made by a Tennesseean, @mjlknives. This is a large knife and the sheath places it nicely on the left hip. I include my design drawing because a lot of people saved it from my instagram post (@rnlleather). The slots are 2 inches. The angle is 60 degrees. I did make a test at the angle on a smaller knife and 60 degree seemed good. The customer is right handed and wanted a cross draw from the left side/front hip. The white thread is to match the white liners on the knife.
  8. Hi all 'Show off' is too strong a term with this one I feel, nothing fancy here, but perhaps a new way to use up otherwise useless scraps. I often work as a modelmaker and the tool of the trade that everyone uses is a swann-morton scalpel. These just get thrown around in toolboxes, bags, pencil cases etc and everyone has an anecdote about that time they stabbed themselves by accident, so here is a cunning solution. Please ignore the business cards, this is not an advert but these are the photos I have. Technical specs- these are a thin (1.4ish mm) veg tan formed around a 3.5mm core, obviously with a cutout for the scalpel to fit into. The thicker central piece stops the blade from slicing through the stitching and tip of the sheath. Fiebings dyes, waxed linen thread, with atom wax for the finish. I normally like doing tooled stuff but these are small and fiddly so are all in plain flavour. Only simple things but I hope you like them, I'm sure lots of people here have the same mentality about making little cases for every tool they own... Cheers, Alex
  9. Hello everyone I have so far only posted Sheridan style things but my main interest really is in European Medieval history. The scabbards are very much secondary objects in this case but there is leather involved and any history nerds out there might find it interesting, so here are a couple of medieval eating knives. These are both in the style of 14th/15th century examples- not exact copies of any originals in particular but borrowing design elements from the many knives and scabbards in the museum of London. The general standard of leatherwork in my reference was not the best, and some was down right terrible, and obviously I was much more limited than usual in what tools I could use, but I am quite pleased with the end results. These were both done freehand and you can tell- nothing has been measured and really it's all comparatively crude, but that is what the real ones look like and that was the aim here. Masterpieces of leather crafting they are not, but the original sheaths rarely were either it seems. Obviously I didn't want them to look rubbish but it's nice not worrying about neatness for a change! Technical specs- Both of these are 2mm veg tan, wet formed around the knife and then tooled. Occasionally they were double layered but these are not. The aim seems to have been just to overwhelm the eye with stuff, so if there is space, fill it with crosshatching or dots or anything to make it more interesting. The larger sheath has gothic lettering as it was for my brother's birthday, no prizes for guessing his name. They both have a back central seam stitched with waxed linen, and a couple of hanging thongs rather than modern belt loops. For anyone interested the knives themselves are both hand forged from 1080 carbon steel, with olive handle scales and brass pins and bolsters. I hope you like them! cheers Alex
  10. Hello, I am pretty new to leather work so I've been soaking up as many youtube videos as I can trying to learn. I found this forum while looking for inspiration to make this and found some gorgeous work here. This sheath was made for a guy at work that wanted to hang his knife off the horn of his saddle while riding but could also wear it on a belt from time to time. I decided the best way to achieve this was as a baldric style rig. The leather is 8oz veg tanned. My stitching chisel is labled "4.0mm" so I'm assuming that's the spacing and I used .8mm thread. (If any of this sounds wrong, please correct me. I'm still learning.) After looking at other's work on this forum and comparing the cheap chinese stamps I bought as a set off of amazon to others I've found at hobby lobby, I've decided that my tools aren't "crisp" enough and are not leaving great impressions. I plan on a better basketweave stamp as my next purchase. Over all, I learned a lot making this and am fairly happy with the results. I did make plenty of mistakes so don't look too close. Hopefully I can avoid those in the future.
  11. So excited to be here! Thank you for letting this hoodlum in lol! Just wanted to post a pic of my work and give a light introduction. My husband is owner/maker at Vehement Knives and I do all of our custom leather goods! I've also done a few designs for Bark River Knives' sheath department! I am here to learn so any constructive criticism is accepted and encouraged! Thanks again!
  12. Finally after 2 months of cogitation and prototyping, finished this guy up. As I don't do sheaths very often, open to critiques as well! And yes, as always, it has the inadvertent requisite Spirit Stitch. YinTx
  13. So, I picked up a very old Blanchard head knife, cleaned it up, gave it a good sharpening (easily 8 hours of work), and realized it needed a good home. So I came up with this little number, designed to go in a drawer, or be hung on the wall. I hope you enjoy. YinTx
  14. Hello, here is my first knife sheath i ever made i did only few key chains and bracelets before. I did many miskakes during the process as i have never worked with such a thick leather and almost didn't finish this project but i am glad i did. It can be atached to belt.
  15. Just returned from a trip to Japan and China and picked up some Japanese cutlery while I was in Tokyo area. These knives are razor sharp and came with a plastic sleeve that will probably be slit open after a couple of days, so I made sheaths to protect them. Used W&C 8oz for one sheath and some old Tandy 8-10oz for the darker sheath. Quick and simple but will protect the blades. What's cool is that they will engrave your name when you purchase the knife. We had English name on one side of the handle and a Japanese translation on the opposite side. At least I think that’s what it says, but who knows, it might say “Made in Japan” for all I know! Gary
  16. I have a commission to make a sheath for a karambit. This is a working knife and retrieval has to be quick and easy and reinsertion, at least simple and not fiddly. Unlike all of the Karambits detailed here, this has an extreme curve, is not for show and will be used for self defense. It is extremely sharp and immediately sliced open the seam of test sheath I constructed. I am not sure simply adding an extra layer of leather around the perimeter of the blade would work. The worst area is along the outer edge towards the tip. Suggestions or ideas are most welcome. Thanks! Bob
  17. Hi I have been working with leather a while now, mainly on saddlery, bridles, chinks/armitas and plaiting and am wanting to make my partner a decent sheath for his muela hunting knife It wont be your normal sheath that hangs down off your belt, it will be a sheath that sits the knife as in line with the belt as possible. I have made rougher sheaths for my own work knives but am wanting to make something tight fitting and slightly decorative Does any one have any tips or advice, on making the pattern right through to finishing the sheath? All tips, do's/ donts are welcome Thanks!
  18. I had a custom karambit made for my big ol' meaty hands by a local knifemaker, I made a vertical sheath for it when I first got it but I've come to prefer/love horizontal carry. I also love/prefer friction fit sheaths for ease of access and don't like straps for retention. While perusing the interwebs I came across the idea of magnets for retaining a blade that kydex sheath makers have been using, I also read a topic here on this forum too. So I decided to try my hand at using magnets and so far I love the results! So far it is holding very well for my use, I don't think it would hold should I fall down a mountain but that would be the least of my problems if that came to be . I used 8/9oz leather, 2/3oz for the inlay ring, rattlesnake skin, Fiebings Oxblood dye, acrylic resolene and Tandy's super waxy 1mm thread (which I prefer for sheaths to add some life-length to the thread in my sheaths). I cut a circle from the 8/9oz, filled with rattlesnake skin and 3 neodymium magnets, and covered it with 2/3 oz leather on the inside to hold the magnet and protect the blade. I tried with 1 magnet which didn't hold, two did but I found that three fit the width better (and perhaps holds stronger). I jogged in place and jumped up and down with the sheath and didn't really feel it shifting or coming out so I think that it will work for my lifestyle. Feel free to critique my work too (I haven't figured out how to get my stitches to look great when saddle stitching two layers together and NOT going over the upper layer instead going off to the side to not cross over the upper layer and having the thread cut into it, if that makes sense). Oh and the edges in many of these pictures were taken before finishing the edges. The last picture is of the original sheath I made at first. All thoughts and comments welcome
  19. Fairly new to leather working and opted to make a sheath for a knife I've had since I was about 12. Came out serviceable but quite a few things went astray in the process. Was also my first go at doing saddle stitching.
  20. Anyone else hiding in their basement to finish a last minute gift project? Yes I did make a make shift work bench out of a folding table, a cardboard box and some BBQ skewers, don't judge. Happy Holidays
  21. It's been awhile since i've posted pics, so figured i'd show off some of my recent projects from decembe
  22. I have an order for a horizontal phone case. I have never made one and I have a couple of concerns.; hoping someone can help me. 1. On vertical cases, I use a simple spring belt clip, but the ones I have are too long for a horizontal case. I am concerned shorter clips might not be secure enough. I've been thinking of some type of decorative clips that can be exposed on each end, or belt loops (perhaps a single wide belt loop) if the customer agrees. 2. If the phone case is horizontal, especially with belt loops, wouldn't this put torque on the phone? Seems like each end of the phone will need to be away from the body. This would have the tendency to flop around and/or hang on things. (construction worker) 3. Seems like with a horizontal phone case the flap would be annoying, since it is so long. Or the flap could be molded and "hinged" to the case with a thin piece. --- or the phone could come out the front and not the top, which seems to me would make a more secure holster. Perhaps I am overthinking this - I hope so. I've scouted around for examples but not seen anything other than the factory made
  23. I recently was gifted a rondel dagger simulator (Cold Steel model) in my longsword class. This particular dagger design has a pretty, floral/star design on the rondels, which actually are rather jagged and pointy (as you will see below). Those rondels can scratch and scrape a bare arm. I read that some people modify these by taking them to a belt sander and grinding off those tips, but I decided to do it differently. I wrapped the lower rondel (the one most likely to scrape a person's arm) with a leather "boot", kind of like a steering wheel wrap. Then, I thought that I should make a sheath for it, so that I could actually carry it and even use it during longsword practice (as a secondary, backup weapon). But this dagger is triangular in cross section, and those rondels don't lie flat, so what kind of sheath would work? Also, the balance point (where the knife will hang blade-down correctly) is actually on the rondel itself, so any working sheath will have to go past that. But the rondel is round... so...what to do? My brain said, "It's got to go into a little cup, kind of like an inverted ice cream cone (the cake kind, not the conical sugar cone kind.)" A bit of research later on confirmed that this "cup" method is actually shown in medieval art, which made me pleased. And of course I have to break out my tools, to make it look nice: I decided to lace up the triangular portion (since it will likely see some wear), and I actually used my filigree punches for decoration here. The color is a British Tan antique paste, from Tandy, which I have had for...hmm...many years now! I am pleased with the barrel stitching (the round bottom of the cup)-- I have nearly got it figured out! The triangular part (to the left) is not yet riveted to the cup (on the right) in this photo. Here is another shot of the dagger, resting in the cup: And now for a shot of the "boot" around the rondel: The boot also creates a nice friction fit against the sides of the cup. The last thing to do will be to create the hanging loops -- I'm thinking of some way to do a dual system, so I can hang it vertically or horizontally.
  24. I was asked to do this but, didn't want to it a look like a case for a Pez dispenser. Because of its shape I wanted to get away from its natural looks. So I used one of my basic design for a sheath and built up a welt really thick 5 layer. I was able to keep it from looking like it didn't belong. I used 3 different colors to dye tan, mahogany, and black
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