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Found 201 results

  1. SaintJoy18

    Paracord "core" thread use?

    Hello everyone. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with using the individual core strands from paracord/550 cord in their stitching? I have saved several thousand feet of the cording due to using the exteriors on other projects (figured I'd find a use sometime). I know that it is individually stronger than other materials so I wouldn't be pulling too tight or using it for weighted areas in order to prevent cutting my hides. I've gone through all 50 pages of sewing posts and couldn't find it mentioned (though I did find the debates about poly/nylon and spectra/dyneema) so I thought I would ask if there were any pro's or con's for leather usage. Thanks everyone!
  2. I'm watching the work of a few of my online peers and noticing that they are going to great lengths to stitch up straps and casework, but not really lining the leather and not for obvious structural or assembly reasons. I've certainly stitched my share of works but only if I was lining a piece or making a connection and on the rarest of occasions for an aesthetic effect. Does anybody else on these forums do this? Is there some function other than "looks"? Particularly the straps---does stitching prevent stretching and loss of shape over time? Thanks for your thoughts. Mike
  3. jakeyb99

    Singers 97/10

    Singer 97/10 for sell. Asking $4000, it is in excellent condition sews great and runs smooth. It comes with several extra needles. I can get more pictures upon request, any questions please ask. I have 5 of these machines and I will steeply discount them to anyone who wants to buy multiple. I also have a champion shoe machine and several 7/33 machines.
  4. chapelstone

    Consew 227 RB

    Consew 227 with reverse, It has some age but it is in excellent condition. Just serviced by a professional and worn parts were replaced. Table, variable speed motor, speed reducer and new belt. Pick up in Western NC or I can meet in the vicinity of any of these zip codes: 28746,29670,30605 $1200 OBO Moving shop to SC and trying to reduce the load.
  5. Sell sewing machine Duerkopp Adler 669-180010. Number of needles: Single needle. Stitch Type: Shuttle. Platform, type: Sleeve. With triple advancement. Energy saving stepper motor with needle positioning function. 750W, 1x230V. Table (height adjustable). Countertop 1200x550mm. Lamp. Suspended (folding on top) ruler adjustable 0-42 mm. A set of one-sided legs. Needles 134-35 LR 100, 110, 120, 130, 140 for 30 pcs. Bobbins Duerkopp. Duerkopp oil. The sewing machine was purchased from a Duerkopp dealer in Lithuania. In production not used. Condition: new. Ptice 3200 $ (or 2800 euros) + delivery from Riga (Latvia). Price without VAT. Delivery by transport company from Latvia. Shipping cost depends on the location of the buyer.
  6. What Exactly is an EPS? Cobra Steve, Leather Machine Co., explains what an EPS (Electronic Positioning System) is, and how it can help you do a better job sewing leather. Be sure to watch the video too!
  7. Adler, Camoga, Fortuna, Galli, Krause Industrial Machinery Located in North Florida, this leather company is consolidating their inventory and I am helping sell the items. The equipment included is brand new, or like new, indoors/factory kept, European machinery. - Pay by cash, check or bank wire. Credit Cards will be accepted, a 3% transaction fee will be added. - Pick up items in person or arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping. - DM me for more information, to answer specific questions or additional photos. - Images can be viewed by following this link: Flickr Images We have the following machines for sale: (1) Adler Sewing Machine - $4,180 (2) Adler Handbag Sewing Machines - $3,080 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machines - $1,980 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machine - $1,870 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (1) Atom Clicker - $5,280 (1) Camoga 520 Splitter Automatic - $14,850 (2) Fortuna Bevel Machines - $1,980 each (1) Fortuna Bevel Machine - $2,970 (1) Fortuna Type UAF 470 Splitting Machine - $10,450 (1) Galli Stamping and Number Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli RCB Bag Trimming Machine - $6,600 (1) Galli R5L Belt Collector - $7,150 (1) Galli TGV20 Drying Tunnel - $3,300 (1) Galli FC2E Belt Polish and Paint Machine - $8,800 (1) Galli SM3 Bag Polishing Machine - $4,950 (1) Galli LCS2 Glazing Machine - $6,820 (1) Galli TCE 3000 Oil Pressure Punch Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli Srapy Booth - $4,950 (1) Krause Cardboard Cutter - $2,420 (1) Protos Type 1652 Linear Folding Machine - $3,300 (1) Protos Strap Cutter - $4,620 (1) Protos Folding Machine - $1,320 (1) Protos Type 680 Tracking Machine - $2,200 (1) SPS Automatic Stapler - $2,640 (1) Silvy Strap Cutter - $7,150
  8. Hello! We are a small leather goods manufacturer and we are consolidating our machine inventory! We have several industrial machines available. All machines are in used, working condition and are sold as-is. They have all been in use in a production facility most recently in December 2018. Please DM me if you would like more information in regard to pricing and photos. Please make an offer! If you are in the Twin Cities area, we would be happy to coordinate a showing for you. Please arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping - we have a loading dock for convenience. Cash only. We have the following machines for sale: Leather Machinery Fortuna 3443 Band Knife Splitter United-Carr M 235 Kickpress Judson L. Thomson 21. 2776 Kickpress Prym Press Pneumatic Snap Setter Schaefer TC 15 Topside Cementer Franklin Imprinting Machines A11593041 Hot Stamper Kwik Print 425 Hot Stamper Central Machine 37151 Metal Cutting Band Saw (x2) WSK PP-34F Pneumatic Embossing Machine (x2) USM Emhart Clicker Model B Brute Eastman Class 627 Table Knife Royersford Excelsior No. 10 Kickpress United-Carr M235 Kickpress Sewing Machinery (x3) Adler 267 Walking Foot - $900 Consew 206RB Walking Foot - $700 Consew 227R Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $1,400 (x2) Juki LU-563 Walking Foot - $900 Juki DLN-415-4 Needle Feed, 220V - $750 (x5) Seiko STH-8BLD-3 Walking Foot - $900 (x2) Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot - $1,100 Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot, HEAD ONLY - $700 Singer 111W151 Needle Feed - $500 NEW - Typical GC2263V Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $2,000 Thank you for your interest!
  9. RBStanley

    Landis no 3 harness stitcher for sale

    This sale is for Jim Marsell. He is non electronic and wants to sell this machine. He is planing on moving and doesn't want to move this machine as it is not used for the type work he does. there are several stitching feet, needles and 3 bobbins. No bobbin winder with the machine. It has been setting in the corner of his shop for a period but was fully tuned before doing so. It worked perfect when last used. More pictures to follow
  10. JanetNorris

    Champion stitcher

    As is. I don't know if this runs or not. I was told it came from the shop of Art Vancore, a well known saddlemaker in California. we really need the shop space so this project needs a new home. Asking $550.00 and will crate it for that price. You arrange shipping or pickup between Hollister and Gilroy, CA. It is very heavy! Please email me to request photos, they exceed the attachment limit here.
  11. SeppoKaitainen

    Threading the needle

    Does anyone have step-by-step pictures of how you knot your thread when threading a needle for hand stitching? I am having trouble with my knots slipping undone as I stitch and would love to not have to re-tie several times. Thanks!
  12. Howdy, Long time prowler, first time poster. I'm having an issue with my sewing machine. Im runnin' a Singer 111W155 industrial walking-foot machine and for some reason the bottom stitch will bunch. I've add a picture for reference. Is this a problem with my machines timing? Or have I set the tension incorrectly? The top stitch looks fantastic. Also I notice that in the areas where this occurs the machine tends to buck and needs a little extra gusto to take the next step. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  13. Hello, I bought my Cobra Class 26 3 week ago (NEW). It´s really nice machine, and I like it a lot. But I have problems with servo motor and controlling the sewing speed. When i set speed on for example 15. I cannot sew slowly. When I press foot pedal, just a little bit it, sews immediately fast. And when i set speed on 5, it sews slow, but sometime accelerates for few stitches (like on number 10), and than slow again. But my foot pedal is still. Maybe you have some suggestions what can i do? I tried a lot, but probably not everything. Thanks a lot and have a nice day
  14. Like new Cobra Class 4 premium package. Used less than 1 hour. I had a holster business and Tandy Leather dealership years ago. Thought I would get back into it and changed my mind. Machine, several spools of thread (black, brown etc.). I have an extra motor/tabletop for the sewing machine. These items are included with the machine: Premium Accessory Package: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* Pair of Thread Nippers $2* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* $2200 , local pickup (Pensacola Fl), Will deliver within 200 miles for a fee. It is located in my hobby shop - Hobby Central, easily verified
  15. Dear all, I have got my hands on a pfaff 561 with an efka variostop motor. I'm a true newbie with (industrial) sewing machines and I really didn't know much about the machine before purchasing and how to value it. I've come across the problem that the machine shuts off when I decrease the pressure on the footpedal (from fast to slow stitching). I don't know what happens, I can only explain it as the experience of lowering the speed in a (clutch) car and the speed becomes too low for the gear and the car finally shuts off. The efka motor of the sewing machine "stutters" and then finally shuts off as if it has short-circuit. I can't restart the motor up until (over) a minute later, before it starts and shuts off again. The seller told me the machine works on 220 Volt, but maybe not? Are the settings not compatible? I would really appreciate it if someone with the knowledge can give me an update on the do's and don'ts with the efka motor! Was this purchase a mistake? In the meantime I got my eyes on an Adler 67-73 L with a servo motor, though it is double the price. Would it make more sense to return the pfaff and invest in the Adler? I am situated in the Netherlands and don't work with leather but I make bags and wallets with waste tarpaulin.
  16. thatgriffguy

    Need stitching advice

    I am currently stitching all my wallets by hand because I like the way the thicker thread looks. I have a Consew 207rb5 that I use for any hidden stitches but it will not handle a large enough thread to replace hand sewing the visable areas. Being I am sewing wallets with 3-4oz Harness Leather it’s also crucial to have a feed dog that will not chew up the finished side of the leather. Any suggestions on alternatives to hand sewing that will give the same look with the larger thread?
  17. SalInRI

    Sewing before finishing

    I'm making a bass bow quiver with a carved pattern. I usually sew projects after they are fully stained, antiqued, and finished (usually satin shene.) In this case, I need to sew the pattern up and then wet the project and place a block in the end to expand the leather a bit so it doesn't pinch the bow when inserted during use of the quiver. Do I sew it up before blocking then stain and finish? This will make it difficult to antique and the finish may drip as it won't be laying flat. If I finish then sew and try to expand the end, won't it mess the finish?
  18. Nearly new! Full automatic Durkopp-Adler 281 industrial sewing machine. Semi-dry direct drive machine, single needle.- Automatic thread cutter- Auto foot lift- Auto back stitching- Bobbin counter- Built-in bobbin winder- Semi-dry head- Direct drive (no motor attached to table)- 120VComes with the machine head, table, bobbins, thread stand, and more. Complete, and ready to sew.I used this machine to sew sample jackets for a couple months. Perfect for all fabrics, denim, garment-weight leather, and more. Photos: Local Pickup in Central New Jersey. Looking for $850 or BO.
  19. A friend picked this machine up for a good price, does anyone happen to know what brand it is or clone type? Thanks!
  20. Kaylascustoms

    Best affordable machine

    So I’m new to leather working, I’ve been hand stitching my projects but it’s SO tedious! I’d like to get a sewing machine, but the ones I’m seeing are over $1,000? I usually use 2 layers of 8 Oz leather for my breast collars and a layer of 8 Oz and a layer of 5-6oz for inlays on the bridles I make. I don’t want a machine that barely gets through the leather, I’ve seen a few that sew 1/4” leather well (or they’re advertised to do so). Is that enough? Or do I need to get something more heavy duty? Any advice on what brands are good and what price range they’re in (around $500 would be best, but i know it’s a long shot)
  21. Hello Everyone, I am new to leather work and have been making small accessories for about a year. I ultimate goal is to make horse tack for barrel racing or possibly heavy leather hand bags. I am looking at investing into a leather sewing machine, what should I be looking for? What machines will work for me? I plan to make breast collars, halters, nose bands, etc. Let me know what you think. Thanks in Advance, Jessica
  22. Like new Cobra Class 4 premium package. Used less than 1 hour. I had a holster business and Tandy Leather dealership years ago. Thought I would get back into it and changed my mind. Machine, several spools of thread (black, brown etc.), tool box, maule, punches, knives, bevelers, swivel knife, HD stamp/rivet press, dies for press, Clicker Dies: two types of western holsters, iwb, pancake, foldover for small caliber, cowboy cuffs (2), gun belt buckle and tongue dies, rounder, practice piece, arrow head, spur straps, iwb leather belt loop. These are high quality clicker dies with almost no wear. YOU DO NOT NEED A CLICKER TO USE DIES - you simply lay the die on concrete or other hard surface (blade up), place you leather over the die and tap around the die with a maul or mallet. In minutes you have a perfect cut out. The concealment holster dies are not shown and are steel rule/plywood dies. The press is not shown either. I forgot to mention that I have an extra motor/tabletop for the sewing machine. Also some gun molds (red gun and Duncan alum) $3800. These items are included with the machine: Premium Accessory Package: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* Pair of Thread Nippers $2* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* Owner and parts manual
  23. Hey guys, so the table from my 1940s Singer 111 is shot. A leg is broken, it's wobbly and the table top is warped beyond salvage. I was about to just buy a new table top and k-legs but my wife saw a photo of the setup and insisted I make something since she thought the k-leg setup was an eyesore. I'm always up for a project so I figured I'd give it a shot. I took a 6 week welding class a couple months ago and recently picked up an oxyacetylene setup. I thought this might be a good project to practice those skills. This is what I'm thinking: For the table top I think I'm going to go the easy route and just pick up a finished 1" thick all wood top from Ikea for $40. it's 2'x4' and is made of pine (not ideal, i know) so I might reinforce either the underside or the perimeter if I feel it might sag. From there I'm just going to remove the old top, trace and mark all the cutouts and just drill/cut/route everything out. I've made a few hinged sewing tables before so I'm not too worried about this part. After it's finished I'll stain and poly it. Here's the table top: For the legs I was debating between using threaded black pipe and fittings or just brazing the whole thing with 1" & 3/4" pipe. If I go with the pipe fittings I'd do an H-Leg design with a 3/4" bar across the bottom for the pedal and perhaps and extra support across the back. This is the style I'm going for, t-fittings, floor flanges and all: OR I was thinking of brazing 1" copper pipe in a similar fashion. I think it would make for a cool industrial look and go well with the beat up machine and leather drive belt. Maybe use fitting too just to make alignment easier. What do you guys think? Have any of you guys built your own? I'd be curious to here about your experiences And yes, I realize that I can buy a complete setup for $200 shipped to my door, but this is something unique and will be a fun project, assuming it's sturdy enough. Suggestions & criticisms welcome, please!
  24. Selling 1912 Industrial German Singer 29-4 Lether Patching Sewing Machine. It has the original stand can be operated manually or can use the small motor that we have added. We are closing down the Shop and need to sell. More photos at If interested in this or any other item on the list below please email me We also have (click on the links for more photos. 1940 Hunter Century Fan 1912 Singer 29-4 G Sewing machine with Oscillating Shuttle with stand, and original table Auto-Soler Landis 12 Model G Paragon Model 1 1930 cast iron stretcher Landis finisher 1947 Singer 17-30 leather sewing machine with motor PFAFF Sewing Machine walking 2 legs. Vintage Metal Round Nail holder Carousel Grizzly cobble shoe stand with 7 attachments 4' wooden draws Landis 5 in 1
  25. I'm aquiring my equipment for a retirement hobby business that I want to pursue I'm fortunate to live about 2hrs from the Wicket & Craig tannery and they do retail sales And I like tooling shaping and stitching leather but saddle stitching is slow so........ as a business I'd like to mostly do belts, chaps, sheathes, and holsters but might try wallets, Totes, watch bands and whatever also. at this time I have : an older consew, a 226 (Seiko build) that I plan on doing the lighter work on using 69 and 92 thread for Watchbands, wallets and other work below 8oz and medium fabric work Another older consew a 206rb-4 (Seiko build) I'm planing to use for 138 and 207over138 thread work I Plan to use it for Belts and simple sheaths below 20 oz total How much tweaking would a 206 take to reliably run 207 in the bobbin? A cb3200 which was my first leather stitcher And second sewing machine of any type before the Acquisition virus took hold i plan to continue to use this for pancake holsters, heavier belts, and welted sheaths up to 32oz total using 207 and 277 thread a CB4500 for everything heavier than 32 oz or needing 346 or 415 thread and finally I also have a China cobbler and a herd of Black iron singer domestics for the really light stuff I believe my intended usages are appropriate to the machines in hand Any suggestions or something I'm maybe not considering? I'll still be working for a few more years so as OT is available i will add the equipment thats still needed Like a powered splitter and strap cutter and possibly a better patcher? Tia Jim