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Found 71 results

  1. I recently finished a new pair of foot-shaped shoes — photo attached (hopefully!). As ever, the goal was to make comfortable footwear that lets the foot move as naturally as possible while being stylish and unique. Wide toe shapes and flexible, totally flat soles are a consistent feature of my designs. I never make tapering toes, stiff soles, toe spring or raised heels — as these can all cause major issues for feet and for general health (e.g., knees, hips, backs) especially if worn for years or decades. In fact, I started making my own footwear because it’s almost impossible to buy shoes without at least one of these features (even if you can find flat, flexible soles, the toe area usually tapers too much). See my blog post at https://tozafoot.com/2019/07/02/experimenting-with-design-and-method-side-fastening-shoes/ for more photos, and a summary of how I made this pair. I’ve taught myself a lot, and invented some ways of doing things that would probably raise professional shoemakers’ eyebrows, but they work for my philosophy and toolset. I only use a few hand tools, no sewing machines or sanders or other power tools, and I only use solvent-based glues for attaching a rubber sole, after the shoe has been completed and is wearable (with a leather outsole). Again, see my website for more details. Cheers! tozafoot
  2. THIS is s stitching machine! This was used in production for the backseat on tall bootlegs of heavy military and riding boots. Pay attention on the direction of the rolling foot! Not sure if on this photo you can guess the actual size of this machine, but a normal patcher would look tiny next to it...
  3. Hi everyone! First time visiting Leatherworker.net, so please bear with me if my post is in the wrong thread, or if my problem is not suitablefor this site. I'm at my wits end here, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on whats going on here: I decided to try to dye a pair of painted whole cut oxfords, in an attempt to make them darker. The leather is originally painted, medium brown. I'm dying them with a very dark brown, Saphir Teinture franscaise. (I cleaned the leather with Saphir Renomat before applying the dye). After applying dye in three rounds, the leather (surprisingly) seems to take the dye well, darkening the color evenly. But on both shoes there is an area of about 1x2 inches that doesn't seem to take the dye. This area remains the original color (but with a super matte surface). When applying dye to the area the leather immediatly absorbes the dye and dries up. On the rest of the leather the dye takes 5-10 minutes to dry/absorbe. I've tried dying the problem area with additional two rounds of dye, but it just keeps absorbing it immediatly, without any change in color. What's going on here, and what can I so to solve this? Any tips or thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  4. So, this is the fifth pair of boots I am making. The previous four pairs were an evolution of engineer boots and so I decided to make some harness boots this time. They are ready for the midsole, soles, and heels!
  5. If anyone has ever wanted to give a go at Shoe making but felt a bit intimidated, I feel ya. I found a company called SneakerKit that sets you up with everything you need. Watch my build along and make yourself an awesome pair of leather shoes. https://youtu.be/4zs06dVIEdQ
  6. So I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but I have searched the entire internet for either similar boots or someone I could commission to make them for me. I'm looking for something based off of these: I wouldn't expect them to be exact because this is not a real picture but I really love these boots and I want something similar. If anyone could help with this or help me find someone who can that would be amazing. Price isn't an issue. My email is jacklynlemay (at) gmail.com Thank you!!
  7. Cylinder arm Industrial sewing machine Atlas USA AT335, including sewing table on wheels. Plus FREE flatbed table extension. And FREE bias binder attachment. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Atlas USA AT335 = equivalent to Pfaff 335 sewing machine. Description: The diameter of arm is 46mm. It is specially designed for join-sewing. This machine can be use for edge assembly. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Model: AT335 Sewing speed: 2000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 5mm Needle: DPx17 INCLUDES: HEAD,TABLE,MOTOR. **AS NEW: BARELY USED !!** $1,599 *NO SENDING, LOCAL PICKUP ONLY IN LOS ANGELES!*
  8. Hey' all My name is Nelson Agaba from Uganda. I am new to this community. I am a leather expert with 10+years experience in leather tanning and tannery operations. I have always loved leather crafting and I have just ventured into small leather goods manufacturing and footwear making. I want to seek all help and assistance from experts in ladies sandal making, wallets, belts and leather bags. I have 2 post beds, and a skiving machine and all the necessary hand tools but no experience in this. Any help (videos, patterns, etc to help me get started) will be highly appreciated. Thanks all.
  9. I'm pretty new to sewing. I have a consew 206RB in very good shape. The main purpose for me getting into the field is for shoe making. Before anybody goes there, I am aware that a post roller foot is the best machine for such work, but I didn't have post bed money. I bought a good machine that I could afford. I also plan to venture to other things which will require a flat bed. Anyways, the foot marks my leather. I have already read the manual and loosened the screw at the very top to relieve some pressure, which did help. But I was told that there is a screw to loosen for the outer foot and inner foot, and since I'm a rookie I really don't know which one I loosened. It's the inner or "walking foot" that leaves marks, they can easily be rubbed out of suede, but not leather. Anybody have some suggestions?? Even on tools that can rub marks out? Also, if you're interested in this machine shoot me a pm. If I can't figure out how to get this to stop marking my leather I MAY be looking to sell it to buy a machine that can. Located in Ohio. Thanks!!
  10. Cylinder arm Industrial sewing machine Atlas USA AT335, including sewing table on wheels. Plus FREE flatbed table extension. And FREE bias binder attachment. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Atlas USA AT335 = equivalent to Pfaff 335 sewing machine. Description: The diameter of arm is 46mm. It is specially designed for join-sewing. This machine can be use for edge assembly. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Model: AT335 Sewing speed: 2000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 5mm Needle: DPx17 INCLUDES: HEAD,TABLE,MOTOR. **AS NEW: BARELY USED !!** $1,599 *NO SENDING, LOCAL PICKUP ONLY IN LOS ANGELES!*
  11. Hi All, I'm a newish shoe/boot maker in AZ, and I wanted to introduce myself and see who else out there is making footwear. My style is a moccasin style shoe/boot, that is patterned around making a cast of the person's foot. So, each one is built for the individual's foot. I'm in the process of working on some sandals, and little bags and wallets. I would love to connect with other shoe makers, especially if you're in the Southwest. Rai (like the bread)
  12. hello good morning, good afternoon & evening everyone, i picked up a machine last night thinking it was a singer 29-4 based on the photos & limited info from the seller, now i'm trying to find any info possible on this sutton-landis shoe machinery sewing machine model, so i can learn to oil it, thread it, purchase more needles & bobbins. any info is greatly appreciated & thanks in advance
  13. So, 10 months ago, I posted my first leather project... a pair of engineer boots. I didn't expect to end up with something I could wear and didn't care about the mistakes in stitching, pattern, etc. However, the end result was something unexpected and so I decided to do it again, this time with better materials, more care, a better pattern, etc. So, here are the results. My engineers, version 2. Very happy with how they turned out. Brown Horween Chromexel Horsebutt Japanese buckles Neoprene soles with Catspaw heels Unstructured toe
  14. I've always been intrigued by traditional hand woven shoes, but I can't seem to find anybody who teaches it or knows how to do it. I'll be a very happy man if somebody can teach me how to do it, and we can always work out something (payment). I think they are very beautiful, and suitable for a lot of occasions. Can anybody help me?
  15. Hello guys, I have a pair of my favorite double monk strap shoes in light brown. Having visited an expert in the field,he told me that the shoes are made of "seal leather"(As I researched I understood that's just oiled leather? But I'm not sure about that). He also told me that this type of leather is undyeable meaning there is no way you can dye it effectively. Recently,I have been going out with my shoes and alcohol based drinks (Vodka,Whiskey,beer etc.) have been spilled on the shoes and for some reason I can not understand,this has left stains on the shoe. The help I need is how can I repair the shoes. One solution I have found is to dye the shoes darker brown(Which is cool by me) but first of all the expert said it is unattainable and second of all as I have understood different leather need different care methods,which is not my profession so I do not know what to do. Do you have any ideas on how should I repair the shoes? Thanks in advance for the help and have a great summer guys, Petros
  16. First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. I am going to be customizing sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy. I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker. If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes. Thanks alot, John G https://youtu.be/jQMoLl3g8VI?t=11
  17. Hello, I am selling a Gritzner sole stitching machine in a good working condition. It was cleaned and oiled regularly. Pictures from the machine and stitching done with it can be seen at the following link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SbHjPHS4q-634VPuNwNaDd8E9KXapoFl Please let me know if you can't see the pictures. Price: 300 eur + shipping costs via transfer service (like Transfer Go, Transfer Wise, etc.) or paypal. Shipping from Romania. Weight approx.30kg Let me know if you are interested so we can find a good shipping solution. Best regards, George
  18. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  19. I built these wedge sandals in collaboration with a talented leather worker. I sent the "template" over that I had drawn up, he tooled the pieces to my specs and sent them to me individually just as flat pieces....I took it from there and built these from the ground up...I added the leather turquoise inlays on the wedge portion, attached all leather to build the shoe as well as all embellishments which include brass studs, buckles, custom conchos, hand cut venice lace, etc...There are a lot of versions of tooled soes out there now a days, yet I have still had about 100 people reach out to me to make them a pair. I am still learning to tool leather and am not near ready enough to do justice to a project like this for a anyone and am looking for a leather worker to collaborate with to make several pairs of these...I also have made several pairs of wedding and party shoes which I have included pictures of with full glitter heels and soles... Thanks for looking and hoe you all love the design
  20. Just wanted to share this one: Protons stitcher, exceptional 2 needle system, one from up, one from down below the stitching plate. Used for heavy footwear like military boot uppers. Up for sale minutes from my place. I don't have space anymore...
  21. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  22. Had a buddy that found a deal on a $350 pair of shoes for $35, they just didn't match his wardrobe so asked me if i'd take a crack at 'em...here's the result. https://imgur.com/a/6LQd18z
  23. Hello, I'd like to modify these shoes I don't use a lot and I'd like to remove the velcro closing sytem and install those "metal rings" to use laces instead. Question: after removing the velcro system there will be some small holes from the stitches on the shoes, is there any product that I could use to make those holes less visible?
  24. LOOKING FOR A LEATHER WORKER TO COLLAB WITH...READ ALL PLEASE... I built these wedge sandals in collaboration with a talented leather worker. I sent the "template" over that I had drawn up, he tooled the pieces to my specs and sent them to me individually just as flat pieces....I took it from there and built these from the ground up...I added the leather turquoise inlays on the wedge portion, attached all leather to build the shoe as well as all embellishments which include brass studs, buckles, custom conchos, hand cut venice lace, etc...There are a lot of versions of tooled soes out there now a days, yet I have still had about 100 people reach out to me to make them a pair. I am still learning to tool leather and am not near ready enough to do justice to a project like this for a anyone and am looking for a leather worker to collaborate with to make several pairs of these...I also have made several pairs of wedding and party shoes which I have included pictures of with full glitter heels and soles... pricing can be discussed with anyone seriously interested :-) Thanks for looking and hoe you all love the design
  25. This is a repost from the Flip Flops Tutorial This is very long comment that was tacked on to the Flip Flops Tutorial that ventured off into Sandal Making and Shoemaking. While this isn’t a tutorial in its own right, there’s enough useful information here that it merits a stand alone topic with it’s own search tags for those looking for tips on making men’s sandals and men’s casual shoes. There’s so little info on this topic that every little bit helps and here’s some sourcing tips and a few how-to’s from someone just six months ahead of you on the learning curve If you don’t mind the trial and error method and can figure stuff out on your own, you can teach yourself as I am. It is completely doable for the intermediate level leatherworker. There’s no new techniques to master nor specialty tools to purchase. If you haven’t seen or tried your hand at making a pair of flip flops, start there first. Make at least a couple two three pairs for jumping into this. What Tutorial? I was asked whether I had made any progress on a tutorial I had promised some months back but never materialized and that’s what prompted this lengthy post. -------------------- You mean the Sandals Tutorial I promised last August? Where I said: “I’m working on a tutorial for these and one other model of Men’s Sandals, plus a minimalist, or “barefoot sandal”, as a companion to the Flip Flops Tutorial. Should have a download posted in a few days in the tutorial section.” That post? Where I promised a tutorial but was really just showing off this pair of sandals I had made? No Sir, I have not made any progress whatsoever. What happened was I went through the pics I had taken and realized they weren’t going to work. Oddly, the thing that the tutorial is about is not the thing you make for the tutorial. You have to decide on the front end what is you’re doing. Making sandals or making a tutorial? If it’s a tutorial, then you make a series of process steps and you think in terms of process steps. That meant I had to start all over, which is no problem if you are really motivated to make a tutorial. I was more motivated to move on to shoemaking. I still might make that tutorial and even one on Shoemaking. Who knows? I'm a novice at all of this and I’m just self-teaching my way through by trial and error. But listen, if you can make flip flops, you can make sandals. And if you can make sandals, you can make shoes. Tell ya what, here’s a Cliff’s Notes version of the Tutorial I was going to make. Sandal Making Sandals are not much different than flip flops; heck, flip flops are sandals. The key bit in either case is securing the upper to the lower using "sew tabs" that are folded under the insole and are stitched down. I came up with a variety of approaches on how to do this. - Eliminate the fold tabs altogether and stitch the "stub" straight down to the insole. It’s a really cool look with the stitches exposed but requires that your stitches are all lined up perfectly. - You can fold inwards, you can fold outwards. - You can expose the fold on top of the insole, again either inwards or outwards (the latter being a lot easier of course). - The Elevator Approach — Raise the insole into the upper and keep it suspended while you stitch down to the midsole, Then lower the insole and glue down. Provides for a really sleek look not having stitches exposed but with all the strength benefit that stitching provides. - Side Stitched. Here you notch the insole on the side, just enough for the tab to fit flush to the insole and at the same angle where it meets the insole. You use a running stitch at the same angle (for looks) to secure. The stitches are exposed on the side, so again you have to get the stitches symmetrical for a nice look. As of the uppers, there are further options using buckled straps which are particularly useful as backstraps to really secure the sandal to your foot and an absolute must if you intend on running with them as in the case of the “barefoot sandal” that is so popular now. Shoe Making There’s not much difference between sandal making and shoemaking to tell you the truth. I’m referring to Men’s casual shoes, not that mind-blowing bespoke stuff. I’m not saying it’s easy, however. Shoes are a lot harder than sandals — not the technical parts. Stitching is stitching. Rather, it’s the patterns and fit that will drive you crazy. Don’t even bother with shoemaking unless you have a pair of lasts. You should have those even for sandal making actually. You can get a pair of used lasts for $50 on eBay any day of the week. Wait and hunt for a deal and you can get a pair for $20 or less. While waiting for your eBay deal to come along, try your hand at making some lasts yourself. Just a side note on lasts, they are not replicas of your feet as commonly thought of. Instead, they are the cavity of a shoe, the empty space inside a shoe. Might seem like hair splitting but it is an important difference. Your foot fits inside that cavity. Foam Lasts Anyways, here’s a cheap and easy way to make some lasts using expanding foam. You’ll need to sacrifice a pair of shoes however. Lace up the shoes as you normally would and place a plastic bag inside the shoe. <Just occurred to me that you should put some talc powder in that bag and give it a shake. I forget whether I did that or not, but I must have otherwise it would be difficult to separate the plastic> Dispense the expanding foam making sure you fill in the entire cavity. You’ll end up using too much and it will bulge at the shoe and expand out of the top enough to make half a lower leg. Not a problem. Just let it cure and cutaway the shoe. Remove the plastic and sand off any excess bits. Then cover the foam last in masking rape or duct tape. Any tape. You know what would look cool? That white cloth medical tape — get that “invisible man” look. In any case, be sure to apply tape to prevent crumbling from handling, If you want to get artsy with it, decoupage the masking tape. Why not? I did. I also sprayed it with some varnish. And then a curious thing happened, the foam shrunk. I guess with that much foam it takes a while for the center to cure and when it did everything shrunk. But it wasn’t anything that a couple pairs of thick socks couldn’t take care of. Wood Lasts Right after congratulating yourself on how smart and practical you are you will discover the shortcomings of a foam last. “It sure would be nice if I could secure the upper by tacking or nailing it to the last while taken measurements and for fittings.” Indeed it would, Go back and hunt for a deal on eBay. I just wanted a “reasonable” deal and refused to pay usury prices for something that’s just a hunk of wood. (Turns out that last making is a specialized art from that takes years to master.) Mastery or not, it’s still true that it’s just a hunk of wood. If you’re comfortable with woodworking, you can make a rudimentary pair for the cost of 2x6 and 2x4 scrap wood. Just stack and glue graduated pieces from toes to ankle height and draw the outline of your foot on the side. Then spend a couple hours at the belt sander and you’ll get a pair you can work with, Use your feet as a shape guide and a pair of existing shoes as your guide for fit. For me the biggest benefit in making homemade lasts is that I now more fully understand and appreciate the lasts I purchased on eBay. I will say though that I still use my homemade wood lasts at times. Shoe Patterns The other thing that is difficult for me is converting a 3D concept into a 2D pattern. The 2D version of the front half of a shoe (the vamp) doesn’t look like a shoe at all, not to me anyways. Forget about finding patterns for men’s shoes. There aren’t any. However, there are plenty of YouTube videos showing you the “tape method” for pattern making. You might find those useful, they weren’t much help for me. What did work was to take shoes apart. Instant pattern. The hard part is finding the style you like at a cheap price. I’m interested in retro patterns from the 70’s like these two shoes: Those guys cost upwards of $150 new and $50+ used on ebay because retro is the thing these days. But I know a guy who knows a guy who knows about this place: ShopGoodwill.com (sorry for the small pic – just click on it) This is Goodwill’s auction site that’s looks and feels like it was built using a TRS 80 hobbyist PC before the internet existed, but once you get used to navigating you will be surprised with how deep their inventory is and how their prices are. I’ve bought several pairs and was the only bidder. As show in that screenshot, that particular day there were 360 listings for “Leather” in the Men’s Shoes category starting at $3. Reverse Engineering Taking shoes apart is highly recommended, not just to yield a pattern but also to figure out how they were constructed. Once you get that level of understanding, it’s no big deal to experiment with your own ideas and patterns because you’re starting from a working model instead of from scratch. The Stitch Down Shoe The stitch down shoe is pretty straightforward and easily doable for the intermediate level leatherworker. No special tools required and no new techniques to learn. Look at how the upper is attached in this pic. That’s about as straightforward as it gets. The Chukka Boot I’m partial to the Chukka style which can be found in a variety of shoe style as well as boots. That’s the next level after shoes. Traditional Turkish Shoe I also want to figure out how to make these guys. These are traditional Turkish Shoes that have been around for a loooooong time and still being made today. I want to say they date back centuries, but I don't know that for sure. Many many years for sure. They look super cool and comfortable, don't they? Some hot shot kid is marketing these in the U.S. for $200 pop and I would be surprised if his cost was more than $20. Google "Sabah Shoe" for more info. Soling Material – Conveyor Belting About the only thing unique about shoemaking is soling material. Soles take a beating and can wear out quickly. The best leather option is “shoe sole bend” — super thick, super strong, compressed leather that you’ll need a bandsaw to cut. It’s expensive and not readily sourced. From there your looking at rubber or synthetic materials and those are expensive too….unless you know somebody who spent months finding this triple top secret soling tip. During my research, I ran into a handful of recommendations to use conveyor belt material. In fact there’s a couple such posts on this forum that mention it. Apparently this was a popular choice years ago, particularly with moccasin makers who could source used conveyor belts for practically nothing. Then came eBay where anything is worth something to someone and sure enough that drove prices way up. Look, this is just plain o’ rubber. You can buy rubber floor mats for next to nothing. Surely somebody offers industrial rolls of rubber cheaply? No no no. Apparently not. But here’s the thing. There is one price for a “roll of rubber sheeting” and then there’s another price for “Skirtboard 60 +/-5 Durometer.” Sometimes what you know is better than who you know. I found a deal for a 50’ roll that is 5” wide and 1/4” thick for .79 cents a foot – free shipping! That’s $40 delivered. That will yield up to 25 pairs of soles. Now that’s what I’m talking about! Compare that to the other alternatives at $10/pair and more….a lot more in some cases. (Click on screenshot picture to expand) I haven’t worked with it much yet. Feels like it will last forever. Very flexible yet firm. I like the feel of it, even the smell of it. Has a perfumey sort of smell. Easy to work with, cuts like a dream. I cut out a pair of soles and glued it to one of my failed shoe attempts (I have a bunch) and it looked great…..and then it started separating after a couple days of use. Stitching it down will obviously work, but that will require a channel and punching or drilling holes. I haven’t tried it yet, but I don’t think a stitching iron will work as the holes will fill right back up. But maybe not. Like I said, haven’t yet put it through the tests. I don’t know if this is some special deal or not but everywhere else it’s lot more expensive. Just saying, for $40 you can’t go wrong. Get a roll of this for whatever shoe style you’re working on, flips flops, sandals, or shoes. I just can’t help but think that this deal is probably not going to last long. Heck, that roll is so heavy you would spend $30 just to ship it. And there you have it. EDIT: I still haven't made a "perfect" pair, but this is my best effort so far. Notice that it's just one shoe. I have lot of those. No point making the other one if you're going to do it all over. EDIT 2: Check out this Dude. I call it "The Liberace". Again, just one shoe -- it was extremely uncomfortable. This design just came out of nowhere, sorta. I was taking apart a failed attempt on a chukka style and it was taking forever, so I took the scissors to it and cut off the upper, just leaving a stub attached to the insole. It caught my attention right away and I stared at it while my brain whizzed through it's "match that image" thing that it does. And then it occurred to me. Heck. that's a loafer without a top. I tossed the failed attempt to the side and went straight to work on this prototype. I think it's cool. I had a Miami Vice vibe in mind. To bad it kills your feet. I'll come back to this style later on. Lots of variations you can do with this style.
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