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Found 47 results

  1. Just took possession of a Du-105, no manual and new to machines so no idea what I'm doing. If anyone has a manual or any tricks for threading, needles and thread, or operating I'd appreciate it!! Maybe cobra Steve can help me out here a bit.
  2. I have recently bought a juki lu1510, my purpose is to sew thicker multi layer leather garments with it (such as a layered leather corset, mediaeval leather gambeson, maybe some experimental shoe making). It is the 6th sewing machine in my collection but first industrial machine and I'm having trouble understanding the thread specs (what each number means) and sourcing appropriate thread that matches my needles. I found the needles I needed from schmetz and got some nm130, 140 and 160. Could anyone help me find the thread I'm looking for? If anyone also has a supplier they recommend, I'm based in the UK. It may well be to do with the fact I only half know what I'm looking for, but I don't seem to find many stockists of heavier thread. Manufacturer specifications: Needles- 135×17 (at the time of delivery) (Nm160) Nm125~Nm180 Thread- #30~#5, B46~B138, Nm=60/3~20/3
  3. Hey All, I'm hoping someone knows something about Singer BZ 15-8 machines...I know someone that has one, willing to give it to me gratis, but I have no idea what this machine is capable of. I'll probably need to put some work into it, and I don't need to get deep in the weeds on this if I can't use it for leather projects. Any insight will be appreciated...Thanks in advance! Mike
  4. Does anyone know if the Cobra or Cowboy sewing machines ever go on sale? I'm looking into purchasing a CB4500 or a Cobra Class 4 but would hate to buy now and see a black Friday sale pop up next month. Thanks in advance for your help.
  5. Hey y’all, I am north Texas and have two great machines for sale. Make me an offer! I wont take less than 2k for the skiver, its in perfect working order and less than 5 yrs old. Anyone who has been looking for this level of machine you know it’s a great deal! This site wont let me upload the pics but i can text them to you. Kim 415-233-3884 text or call for more info!
  6. Hi all, my Dad was a leather craftsman for 55 years (Edinburgh Leather on fb) He sadly passed away suddenly, and I’m looking for some help valuing his machines and where to sell. We have a Wimsew W-8 industrial sewing machine- he bought it recently. A vintage Adler industrial sewing machine An old Brother leather sewing machine - that needs a table. any advice is much appreciated Kerrie
  7. As little as two years ago, there was a significant lower price incentive for buying Cowboy sewing machines over comparable model Cobra sewing machines. Now that the price of Cowboy sewing machines have jumped up, they are virtually the same price as their comparable Cobra model sewing machines. So my question is: Is there any benefit of buying a Cowboy sewing machine over a Cobra sewing machine? Example Cowboy CB3500 ($2,595 at time of writing) vs Cobra Class 3 ($2,635 at time of writing). To me, for $40 more, why not go with the Cobra. I'd love to know thoughts either way.
  8. I'm on the verge of buying a Cowboy 4500, is it a mistake or is it money well spent? I looked around and settled on the Cowboy 4500 because of its 7/8 inch capacity. Is my decision to purchase this machine a wise one or should I cancel it and get something else?
  9. I am searching for a machine to sew belts up to 16oz (2x8oz) holsters, but yet gentle enough to sew wallets and purses. I would like to be able to use #69 thread and comfortably use #207. I need advice on what to get. I have a little bit of a budget but the more saved the more equipment I can get for my shop. I already have a old Union Lockstitch that I call the beast but no reverse and it is made for thicker stiffer leather and cannot sew a wallet. Also timing is starting to slip on it and I need to get it adjusted before I can use it again. My budget is closer to $1000 than $2000 but I can make it stretch if I have to. Any models that fit this bill would be incredibly helpful. Thanks.
  10. Hi Everyone, I'll be relocating to New Zealand (from the US) within the next several months and thinking about selling most of my industrial machines here, before I leave, and starting a-fresh there. The thinking is both to save on overseas shipping expenses, and also with the 220/240 voltage there, to get new equipment that is already set up for that current. Does anyone have any information about suppliers in New Zealand--equipment, leather, tools? Thanks for any suggestions. Jynelle
  11. Hi I'm new to this forum but have been hobby sewing for years! I have been making leather tote and handbags using different weights of leather but I realize I need a post bed sewing machine probably a walking foot. Any suggestions I have a limited budget and after research I am not thrilled that everything is made in China even the high end names if I buy used will there be a parts issue, any help is greatly appreciated!
  12. I recently (one month ago) got a Cobra Class 4 machine and I haven't been able to get it adjusted correctly yet. Is there a troubleshooting guide out there that shows pictures that say if your machine is doing this then try this? I did 3 passes the first two left to right and the 3rd right to left. I changed the needle between the first and second pass. Thread size 277 needle size 25 (passes 2 and 3 with S point)on a single layer of 12oz saddle skirting. The back side looks pretty good but the front looks awful.
  13. I recently bought a used juki LS1341. Got it from a commercial shop and it was set up and sewing fine. Moved to a new state, new shop, set back up and it sews about two stitches and thread starts gathering up underneath. I have never had this problem on any of my machines before. Anyone have a suggestion?
  14. Hi Folks, I have a new to me Consew 227 post bed. The stitch length should range from slightly more than four SPI to twelve SPI, according to the stitch length selector. However something is misadjusted and the actual range is eight SPI to sixteen SPI. I'm not afraid to make adjustments, but it's not clear how to make this adjustment, so I want to take it apart to understand how it works. This involves removing the drive pulley, which I've done before to change the internal belt and I understand how that works. My problem is the drive pulley is held on by the stitch length adjustment knob, and I can't see how to remove that. Can anybody advise me? Thanks for the help, Chris.
  15. First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. I am going to be customizing sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy. I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker. If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes. Thanks alot, John G https://youtu.be/jQMoLl3g8VI?t=11
  16. Hi everyone, I recently bought a Davis High Arm Vertical feed sewing machine, and I am in search of a bobbin bullet shuttle for it. Since it's an antique machine I am having trouble finding a replacement bobbin bullet shuttle. If anyone knows of a replacement please let me know! Dimensions: 1 and 15/16 inches long. Width at bobbin opening is half an inch. Here is a picture of the one broken one I have. The foot that fits in the hole is broken off. Thanks!
  17. For some reason, my Cowboy 4500 started missing a stitch, after clunking, in the middle of a long line of stitching. At first, I thought it was a needle issue, changed needle, no help. Then, I thought it was an issue with the roller guide forcing the needle over into another part...nope. Finally, I sought help online. There are a couple of sites that have videos by supposedly knowledgeable people...that may be, but a totally out of focus image, after they acknowledge that the image is totally out of focus, and abysmal lighting, after they acknowledge abysmal lighting, and I was through. Then I remembered Uwe has videos on youtube. Seriously, great lighting, ALWAYS IN PERFECT FOCUS, and a running commentary via text on screen. Yeah, buddy! I managed to totally re-time my machine and am back to perfect stitching. Uwe does it right. Check it out if you need help with your machine. He restored my sanity today, and that is no small task, on the best of days! Jeff
  18. Hello! I desperately need a leather sewing machine and I've done a lot of research and simply cannot decide what's best. I mostly make handbags with leather and heavy canvas, and I've been doing a combination of sewing what I can on my Janome HD 3000 (great for apparel sewing but can only handle about 1/4" of leather at most) and then hand sewing like crazy. I'm fairly convinced that a cylinder bed would be best for my needs. I've read great things about the Cobra Class 4 and the Cowboy 4500, but I worry that they won't sew well with lighter weight applications. For instance, I read that the Cobra Class 4 uses thread sizes #138 - #415, but I often need to sew with thread as small as #69 with a 18/110 needle. So then I looked at the Cowboy 3200 and the Cobra Class 3 and Class 26. They seem more reasonable in terms of sewing lighter weight leathers but the fact that they all have only about a 10" arm seems like a ridiculously small amount of clearance. I was tempted to buy a Singer Cobbler Patcher 29 found near me on craigslist, but I do occasionally need to sew through 3/8" or even 1/2" and it apparently can't handle that on a regular basis. I'm also having trouble finding dealers on the east coast. I live in Maine, so if someone could direct me toward a good dealer in the Northeast, I would really appreciate it. Thanks so much! Michaela
  19. Hi there. I came across this website searching for information on Adler sewing machines. I don't have any experience with industrial type sewing machines, but I am looking to purchase my first one. I have two Adler 267 gk373's about 20 miles away from me that I am interested in for the walking foot feature. I have read that parts and things are more expensive and harder to come by. With this in mind the price for each is only $900. From what I see that is a decent price for an Adler. The owner says that he purchased them a year ago from a factory that was closing down where they were used every day. They don't know much about the machine and said one seems to run fine and thinks the others timing is off because the needle won't grab the thread from the bobbin. I have googled some of Uwe Ross' videos explaining how to fix two of the possible problems and it seems fairly simple. While the sewing machines are the same model they look slightly different. The logo is different and the tack on one of the machines looks homemade or something because the edges are so jagged. Could you guys take a look at the pictures attached and tell me what you think? I'm supposed to go look at them today, but I would like to know which machine I should go for to get a good deal considering everything. Any information you could tell me about what the different serial numbers and tacks mean is very appreciated. I want to be semi ready to negotiate a price. Any haggling advice is appreciated as well. Thank you so much for your time.
  20. So much information on the forum about sewing machines, much from experts in their field, but what about what machines members use every day. I propose on this thread members enclose some simple data on what they have and experience of, something like Machine Make and model number, Proven Thickness of veg tan they have used it for, Remarks including spares problems, clutch or servo, Walking feet etc
  21. I have read I think all of Wiz excellent items on sewing machines, but as a newbie still lost about a sub £750 say $1000 US leather sewing machine for say 2 x 3mm veg tan. I under stand servo and walking feet etc but with such a wide range of domestic and industrial machines its hard search The secondhand prices also seem very high with some models having a significant price difference if they include leather in their description Just looking for low cost hobbie machine which will get very little use, but nice to have
  22. HI, I have read about the narrow and deep throat champion machines but not much about this style/model? Can someone tell me where I might find a manual etc. What this model is best at etc... other than boat anchor:-} Thanks, C
  23. Hey There, I received my brand spanking new Techsew 3850 today. Spent roughly an hour or so figuring it out and just when I got it working everything went down hill. I'm going on hour number 8 and every issue seems to have gotten worse. the major problem that I have is that it does not seem timed properly. When I lower the needle it jams into the bobbin. Anyone have any insight. Techsew doesn't have anything in the manual nor online. Any help would be useful! Cheers,
  24. Greetings, all! My name is Elizabeth, and I'm a relatively new member, who skipped over this step a few months ago. I have been reading hundreds (thousands?) of forum posts, and analyzing the amazing member creations in the gallery. I'm a beginning leathercrafter, who has been honing my cutting, burnishing, and handstitching skills with totes, purses, journals, and card holders for a little while. I have a background in textiles, having embroidered and sewn fabric since elementary school, as well as working with yarn, crocheting, knitting, and weaving. In addition to making items, I hand-dye fabrics and yarn, for myself and for sale. I re-discovered leathercraft this last winter, in need of a new hobby as an outlet while I finish my business degree; as an adult full-time student, and a Type-A perfectionist, I needed something to focus my creative energies. Having tired of the horribly low-quality leather items readily available, and the ever- rising prices on the somewhat higher-quality "luxury" leather goods, I hoped to learn to make something in-between. I first checked out Valerie Michael's The Leatherworking Handbook over and over from the library when it was initially published, wishing and hoping for access to all the specialized equipment described inside; as you all know, all the obscure, specialized equipment I previously could only dream of is now just a few clicks away. I have known for months that I wanted an industrial sewing machine. A new machine seemed to be the answer, as very, very few used machines come up for sale on either Craigslist or eBay, anywhere nearby, and I don't own a large vehicle. Having read all the pinned posts, and taught Google to rank leatherworker.net/forum posts high in searches, I narrowed my options... then BANG! Two machines "fell" unceremoniously into my lap, one via Craigslist, and the other on eBay. Thankfully, I am somewhat mechanical, and I have relatives who are fairly well-versed in engineering and electronics. So, I am now the proud owner of a Singer 111w155, and the soon-to-be owner of a Consew 226. My understanding is they are the same basic machine; both are currently equipped with clutch motors, soon to be changed out (once I make a few decisions, sigh). I am in the process of cleaning up the Singer, as it was stored for quite some time, and is dirty and gunky. My living room is in the process of becoming studio space, with the addition of the giant tv/ chair-and-a-half, as it makes more sense to have the sewing machines/ cutting table/ weaving loom both spread out and more readily available (and because I can, ). Anyway, I thank you all for so readily sharing your knowledge/ expertise/ opinions. Without this forum, I don't think I would have dared take such a big plunge into this hobby- I would still be worrying about choosing my first side, let alone getting over making that first cut. - Elizabeth
  25. First, thanks to everyone, particularly the older statespeople in the forum. I think I have read most every post on the website but rarely offer comments as others, more knowledgeable than me, provide answers far better than I ever could. I began, like many of us, hand-stiching items and playing around a bit. I find myself, like all those before me, wanting to buy a machine for as fun as hand-stiching is, hand-stiching bags is not the most fun that I have ever had. In my research, I cannot get a good feel for the answers to the following: How reliable exactly are these machines? I understand the need for preventive maintenance and how to take care of equipment in general, but are they that finicky once they are up and rolling? Essentially, I have 3 choices - 1) buy a new machine from Techsew, Toledo, or other sponsored place, 2) Buy a new machine from China and set it up myself (again I am a total newbie, this is not really an option in my mind for the first machine), or 3) buy used. My thought is to buy new from a sponsor as I think these machines are fairly reliable with proper maintenance and I need the phone support when I inevitably need it. However, I have recently discovered a few places around me that indicate that they could work on these type of machines (I am outside of Orlando Florida in Deland), lessening my initial reluctance. However it brings me back to my original questions - how much effort does a machine take to keep up and running? If I have to take the machine into the shop (hour away) every time something comes up, I am uncertain that I want to deal with the headache. However, if I can do much of the work myself (I sit in front of a computer for a living though I understand machines to a degree) the the calculus changes. TL/DR: I live in the middle of nowhere in terms of leather sewing machines. Would you be scared to have all of your support be reliant on a phone call? is my logic sound? Thanks! Next time I post it will have information not questions Ben
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