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  1. Hi Folks, I have a new to me Consew 227 post bed. The stitch length should range from slightly more than four SPI to twelve SPI, according to the stitch length selector. However something is misadjusted and the actual range is eight SPI to sixteen SPI. I'm not afraid to make adjustments, but it's not clear how to make this adjustment, so I want to take it apart to understand how it works. This involves removing the drive pulley, which I've done before to change the internal belt and I understand how that works. My problem is the drive pulley is held on by the stitch length adjustment knob, and I can't see how to remove that. Can anybody advise me? Thanks for the help, Chris.
  2. First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. I am going to be customizing sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy. I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker. If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes. Thanks alot, John G
  3. Hi everyone, I recently bought a Davis High Arm Vertical feed sewing machine, and I am in search of a bobbin bullet shuttle for it. Since it's an antique machine I am having trouble finding a replacement bobbin bullet shuttle. If anyone knows of a replacement please let me know! Dimensions: 1 and 15/16 inches long. Width at bobbin opening is half an inch. Here is a picture of the one broken one I have. The foot that fits in the hole is broken off. Thanks!
  4. For some reason, my Cowboy 4500 started missing a stitch, after clunking, in the middle of a long line of stitching. At first, I thought it was a needle issue, changed needle, no help. Then, I thought it was an issue with the roller guide forcing the needle over into another part...nope. Finally, I sought help online. There are a couple of sites that have videos by supposedly knowledgeable people...that may be, but a totally out of focus image, after they acknowledge that the image is totally out of focus, and abysmal lighting, after they acknowledge abysmal lighting, and I was through. Then I remembered Uwe has videos on youtube. Seriously, great lighting, ALWAYS IN PERFECT FOCUS, and a running commentary via text on screen. Yeah, buddy! I managed to totally re-time my machine and am back to perfect stitching. Uwe does it right. Check it out if you need help with your machine. He restored my sanity today, and that is no small task, on the best of days! Jeff
  5. Hello! I desperately need a leather sewing machine and I've done a lot of research and simply cannot decide what's best. I mostly make handbags with leather and heavy canvas, and I've been doing a combination of sewing what I can on my Janome HD 3000 (great for apparel sewing but can only handle about 1/4" of leather at most) and then hand sewing like crazy. I'm fairly convinced that a cylinder bed would be best for my needs. I've read great things about the Cobra Class 4 and the Cowboy 4500, but I worry that they won't sew well with lighter weight applications. For instance, I read that the Cobra Class 4 uses thread sizes #138 - #415, but I often need to sew with thread as small as #69 with a 18/110 needle. So then I looked at the Cowboy 3200 and the Cobra Class 3 and Class 26. They seem more reasonable in terms of sewing lighter weight leathers but the fact that they all have only about a 10" arm seems like a ridiculously small amount of clearance. I was tempted to buy a Singer Cobbler Patcher 29 found near me on craigslist, but I do occasionally need to sew through 3/8" or even 1/2" and it apparently can't handle that on a regular basis. I'm also having trouble finding dealers on the east coast. I live in Maine, so if someone could direct me toward a good dealer in the Northeast, I would really appreciate it. Thanks so much! Michaela
  6. Hi there. I came across this website searching for information on Adler sewing machines. I don't have any experience with industrial type sewing machines, but I am looking to purchase my first one. I have two Adler 267 gk373's about 20 miles away from me that I am interested in for the walking foot feature. I have read that parts and things are more expensive and harder to come by. With this in mind the price for each is only $900. From what I see that is a decent price for an Adler. The owner says that he purchased them a year ago from a factory that was closing down where they were used every day. They don't know much about the machine and said one seems to run fine and thinks the others timing is off because the needle won't grab the thread from the bobbin. I have googled some of Uwe Ross' videos explaining how to fix two of the possible problems and it seems fairly simple. While the sewing machines are the same model they look slightly different. The logo is different and the tack on one of the machines looks homemade or something because the edges are so jagged. Could you guys take a look at the pictures attached and tell me what you think? I'm supposed to go look at them today, but I would like to know which machine I should go for to get a good deal considering everything. Any information you could tell me about what the different serial numbers and tacks mean is very appreciated. I want to be semi ready to negotiate a price. Any haggling advice is appreciated as well. Thank you so much for your time.
  7. So much information on the forum about sewing machines, much from experts in their field, but what about what machines members use every day. I propose on this thread members enclose some simple data on what they have and experience of, something like Machine Make and model number, Proven Thickness of veg tan they have used it for, Remarks including spares problems, clutch or servo, Walking feet etc
  8. Shotsaw01

    Mitsubishi DU-105

    Just took possession of a Du-105, no manual and new to machines so no idea what I'm doing. If anyone has a manual or any tricks for threading, needles and thread, or operating I'd appreciate it!! Maybe cobra Steve can help me out here a bit.
  9. I'm on the verge of buying a Cowboy 4500, is it a mistake or is it money well spent? I looked around and settled on the Cowboy 4500 because of its 7/8 inch capacity. Is my decision to purchase this machine a wise one or should I cancel it and get something else?
  10. I have read I think all of Wiz excellent items on sewing machines, but as a newbie still lost about a sub £750 say $1000 US leather sewing machine for say 2 x 3mm veg tan. I under stand servo and walking feet etc but with such a wide range of domestic and industrial machines its hard search The secondhand prices also seem very high with some models having a significant price difference if they include leather in their description Just looking for low cost hobbie machine which will get very little use, but nice to have
  11. Hi I'm new to this forum but have been hobby sewing for years! I have been making leather tote and handbags using different weights of leather but I realize I need a post bed sewing machine probably a walking foot. Any suggestions I have a limited budget and after research I am not thrilled that everything is made in China even the high end names if I buy used will there be a parts issue, any help is greatly appreciated!
  12. saddlehorn

    What Model Champion?

    HI, I have read about the narrow and deep throat champion machines but not much about this style/model? Can someone tell me where I might find a manual etc. What this model is best at etc... other than boat anchor:-} Thanks, C
  13. Christianlikeswhiskey

    Techsew 3850 Trouble

    Hey There, I received my brand spanking new Techsew 3850 today. Spent roughly an hour or so figuring it out and just when I got it working everything went down hill. I'm going on hour number 8 and every issue seems to have gotten worse. the major problem that I have is that it does not seem timed properly. When I lower the needle it jams into the bobbin. Anyone have any insight. Techsew doesn't have anything in the manual nor online. Any help would be useful! Cheers,
  14. RhodesAveDesigns

    Greetings from Michigan

    Greetings, all! My name is Elizabeth, and I'm a relatively new member, who skipped over this step a few months ago. I have been reading hundreds (thousands?) of forum posts, and analyzing the amazing member creations in the gallery. I'm a beginning leathercrafter, who has been honing my cutting, burnishing, and handstitching skills with totes, purses, journals, and card holders for a little while. I have a background in textiles, having embroidered and sewn fabric since elementary school, as well as working with yarn, crocheting, knitting, and weaving. In addition to making items, I hand-dye fabrics and yarn, for myself and for sale. I re-discovered leathercraft this last winter, in need of a new hobby as an outlet while I finish my business degree; as an adult full-time student, and a Type-A perfectionist, I needed something to focus my creative energies. Having tired of the horribly low-quality leather items readily available, and the ever- rising prices on the somewhat higher-quality "luxury" leather goods, I hoped to learn to make something in-between. I first checked out Valerie Michael's The Leatherworking Handbook over and over from the library when it was initially published, wishing and hoping for access to all the specialized equipment described inside; as you all know, all the obscure, specialized equipment I previously could only dream of is now just a few clicks away. I have known for months that I wanted an industrial sewing machine. A new machine seemed to be the answer, as very, very few used machines come up for sale on either Craigslist or eBay, anywhere nearby, and I don't own a large vehicle. Having read all the pinned posts, and taught Google to rank posts high in searches, I narrowed my options... then BANG! Two machines "fell" unceremoniously into my lap, one via Craigslist, and the other on eBay. Thankfully, I am somewhat mechanical, and I have relatives who are fairly well-versed in engineering and electronics. So, I am now the proud owner of a Singer 111w155, and the soon-to-be owner of a Consew 226. My understanding is they are the same basic machine; both are currently equipped with clutch motors, soon to be changed out (once I make a few decisions, sigh). I am in the process of cleaning up the Singer, as it was stored for quite some time, and is dirty and gunky. My living room is in the process of becoming studio space, with the addition of the giant tv/ chair-and-a-half, as it makes more sense to have the sewing machines/ cutting table/ weaving loom both spread out and more readily available (and because I can, ). Anyway, I thank you all for so readily sharing your knowledge/ expertise/ opinions. Without this forum, I don't think I would have dared take such a big plunge into this hobby- I would still be worrying about choosing my first side, let alone getting over making that first cut. - Elizabeth
  15. I recently (one month ago) got a Cobra Class 4 machine and I haven't been able to get it adjusted correctly yet. Is there a troubleshooting guide out there that shows pictures that say if your machine is doing this then try this? I did 3 passes the first two left to right and the 3rd right to left. I changed the needle between the first and second pass. Thread size 277 needle size 25 (passes 2 and 3 with S point)on a single layer of 12oz saddle skirting. The back side looks pretty good but the front looks awful.
  16. First, thanks to everyone, particularly the older statespeople in the forum. I think I have read most every post on the website but rarely offer comments as others, more knowledgeable than me, provide answers far better than I ever could. I began, like many of us, hand-stiching items and playing around a bit. I find myself, like all those before me, wanting to buy a machine for as fun as hand-stiching is, hand-stiching bags is not the most fun that I have ever had. In my research, I cannot get a good feel for the answers to the following: How reliable exactly are these machines? I understand the need for preventive maintenance and how to take care of equipment in general, but are they that finicky once they are up and rolling? Essentially, I have 3 choices - 1) buy a new machine from Techsew, Toledo, or other sponsored place, 2) Buy a new machine from China and set it up myself (again I am a total newbie, this is not really an option in my mind for the first machine), or 3) buy used. My thought is to buy new from a sponsor as I think these machines are fairly reliable with proper maintenance and I need the phone support when I inevitably need it. However, I have recently discovered a few places around me that indicate that they could work on these type of machines (I am outside of Orlando Florida in Deland), lessening my initial reluctance. However it brings me back to my original questions - how much effort does a machine take to keep up and running? If I have to take the machine into the shop (hour away) every time something comes up, I am uncertain that I want to deal with the headache. However, if I can do much of the work myself (I sit in front of a computer for a living though I understand machines to a degree) the the calculus changes. TL/DR: I live in the middle of nowhere in terms of leather sewing machines. Would you be scared to have all of your support be reliant on a phone call? is my logic sound? Thanks! Next time I post it will have information not questions Ben
  17. PJCustomLeather

    Sewing Machine Options

    I am looking for a sewing machine that can handle a minimum of 1/2" thick of leather but can also do a small thickness of leather. so far I have been looking at the Cowboy 3200, but I would like to know some other alternatives(preferably less than $1700). Please help, Im a little lost when it comes to this stuff. Thanks, Payton
  18. Hi guys, Long time lurker, first time poster. Looking at converting a low shank machine to accept high shank feet, it's not going to be used for any heavy leather so machine won't be used outside its capabilities, just wanting to have access to the huge range of high quality high shank feet. Has anyone conducted such a conversion? Thanks in advance!
  19. Sandritou

    Need advice on tools

    Hello there, first of all i just wanted to say that I am very happy that I found your website! So helpful! I would like to ask for some advice on finding accessories for my machines. I have a butterfly 335 cylinder bed compound feed sewing machine which I believe is a clone of pfaff 335 but not entirely sure and a emel-protex EM 3300 flat bed lockstich machine. I intend to use these machines to make leather bags. I have bought the machines in Nigeria and I believe the manuals that came with them are not even for these machines. I cannot find any information on parts for these machines or where to buy them. I would like to buy the following: butterfly: straight stitch Guides, motor belt(10mm x1275mm) zipper guide and possible some other parts that I may need in leather bag making and someone could advice? protex: straight stitch guides(I don't think there are holes to attach it though?) zipper guides and other feet that could be of help? i live in France now so best would be some suppliers in Europe. i am also looking for a leather skiving machine but I have a limited budget. I was thinking about this one: is anyone familiar with it? Any opinions? i'd highly appreciate any help! thank you, Sandra
  20. Hi everyone, new to the forums here but have been doing leather work for 3-4 years now. Mainly heavy/thick items like sheaths, holsters and other odds and ends. Over the past year I've had much interest in some leather cases I make and I honestly can't keep up with the demand while hand stitching and hand cutting everything. I'm planning to get some clicker dies made and using my shop press to help speed up cutting. For sewing, I'm going through 4 layers of 7/8 OZ so just about 1/2 inch. Hand sewing is very beautiful and strong but It simply takes me too long, maybe an hour per piece now that I've gotten pretty good at it and use my drill press to pilot the holes. Questions for you guys: What sewing machine would you recommend that gives a good looking stitch? I've been having the typical tippmann boss vs power machine debate myself. Leaning towards a powered machine. In your experience does something like a Cowboy 3200 or similar machines give a nice clean stitch? How does it compare to hand sewing? How does the Tippmann Boss compare to these in terms of stitch quality? I'm planning to call the shop in Toledo, OH to get their ideas and see what used machines are in stock. Since I live close by I may road trip there one day soon. Thanks everyone! Any tips would be much appreciated! Jon
  21. My wife learned to hand build felt hats a few years ago and we have been collecting the blocks, hand tools, steamers, etc for a few years, but she still sews the edge bindings on by hand. Very tedious and time consuming. i know there is a machine out there that will precisely and easily sew that edge binding ribbon on the hat and think I have heard a Singer 108K20 may have been one of those machines. Does anyone have such a beast or any knowledge and experience? Thanks for the help. Tom Harrington
  22. Selling these two machines, we bought them to learn how to use them thinking we'd be able to add sewing in our studio but they've been sitting for 6 months, brand new, unused. Purchased from Alberoni Sewing in Anaheim, CA last July. We paid $2200 for the 1508N, and $1000 for the 1181. Juki LU-1508N Industrial Walking Foot Leather Sewing Machine Juki DU-1181N Industrial Walking Foot Sewing MachineThe 1508 is for super thick leather, the 1181 can sew thin leather, canvas, denim. If you're interested please do not lowball me. These are brand new machines with table, servo motors, ready to go. I can ship. These machines are currently in our studio in Los Angeles, CA.
  23. zacb

    Hello From Brooklyn!

    Hi all, Not sure about the rules here but wanted to say hi - have been lurking for a month or so and figured I should actually sign up as a member! My day job is machining and fabrication in South Brooklyn; sewing is very much a side project, but I've always been interested in leather and webbing work, so when a shop around the corner from me closed up and posted "walking foot machines for sale", I went for it. I'll post pictures of the machines and some modifications I did to get a cylinder-bed industrial into a New York apartment in another thread, and I have a couple extra box and bar tack heads that I'll post in the "For Sale" section shortly. All the info here helped greatly in figuring out what to look for in a machine and what to do with one once I got it - I look forward to learning more and maybe showing you all some cool stuff down the road! -Zac
  24. For those who don't know about it, there is an auction site for Government surplus stuff called They occasionally have industrial sewing machines. Tonight I watched a pristine Consew 287RB go for less than $500(w/o shipping). I cried. That said, if you check this site often, you may find a deal on good equipment.
  25. Hello there I have a singer 42-5 that I have "pulleyed down" for sewing leather. It is a flat bed machine, the setscrew that holds the needle sticks out to the right. This makes sewing cases, and anything that is not flat problematical as the setscrew hits the work. I have researched the screw size, and bought some 6x40-1/4 inch hollow head set screws, that can be used to replace the existing fillister head screw. We will see how this works, but it should work well. SDGengineer