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About alpha2

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 12/03/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ft. Collins, Colorado
  • Interests
    Commercial Pilot/flight instructor/ leatherwork/ FFL/ Firearms instructor/

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters/sheaths/belts/wallet-checkbook covers/dog collars/western hat-bands/
  • Interested in learning about
    carving leather, holster making
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    online search

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  1. I do a lot of holsters, but not one yet with the holster plate, because I can't figure out how it's supposed to be used. I'd love to see a short video of someone using it. To be fair, I haven't needed it yet, that I know of! Maybe it makes something far easier that without, but it's beyond me to see it. I do more belts than holsters so maybe it's not worth the effort/time to change things out. I gave up on doing webbing projects because it's way too much trouble to reset everything on the machine.
  2. I've used a French skiver to take the rivet area down just a bit. Then smash them flat. I admit it's a "belt and suspenders" (belt and braces for you non U.S. types) approach, and likely overkill. Jeff
  3. All of what they said...and more! Great work.
  4. Youtube videos under "rolled handle".
  5. Oh, I don't know...I'm 68 now, and am just now, reading all this, glad I never went crazy and bought a bell skiver! It always SOUNDED like a good idea! I swear, I managed, when I was working, to install and calibrate all manner of high tech, digital, 3d, cone beam, volumetric tomographic x-ray equipment, but my Cowboy 4500 gets slightly out of time, and I'm all thumbs. If I didn't have our amazing resources, (you know who you are!) and their youtube videos, I'd buy a really big boat, and use it for an anchor. I don't have any idea what people did before the internet. I likely had an idea, years ago, but I've forgotten. (Remember libraries? Neither does anyone else!) I just discovered, that you can have cheap Tandy leather, and a REALLY sharp head knife, or a REALLY good leather, and a maybe almost sharp head knife, but you can not, under any circumstances, have cheap Tandy leather and an almost, not quite sharp head knife. I have determined though, that Tandy leather needs to be cut with a hacksaw. A SHARP hacksaw. Still learning at my advanced age.
  6. I think a lot of the hardware is available in brass, which won't rust either. I must agree on getting info on zippers from, well, those that sell zippers online! My pet peeve when I was searching for a long zipper for a rifle scabbard, was that no one or two places had the zipper and the hardware I needed! Shipping costs for anything now is absolutely insane, and I would have to get bottom stops from one place, top stops from another, a pull from another and a zipper from yet another, because they didn't even have top/bottom stops in the same color or size at the same place that had a pull in that color/size! I finally found a place online called "The Zipper Lady". Looked up her shop location, it was just across town from me! I won't expect that to happen again in my life.
  7. Every time I set a copper/brass rivet, I kick my self for selling my rivet gun after finishing my airplane. Stupid!! Stupid!! I still have some rivet sets, but they won't work with a hammer.
  8. Was that machine stitched? Because the outside of the flap has the leather pushed out around the holes, indicative of machine stitching. The underside of my machine stitching usually looks like that. It's only partly alleviated by hammering down the stitch line. For something that small, I would always hand stitch, as the front side on the sheath body, becomes the backside of the stitch on the flap. If it's hand-stitched, as appears on the sheath body, I suspect you are using stitching chisels, which also push a lot of leather on the far side. Stitching awls are better than chisels in that regard. But, as I'm sure you're aware, that is a whole other endeavor! Everything is a trade off. Other than that, it looks better than my first attempt at the same! Not my quote, but..."I can teach you all the basics of leatherwork in a day or two, after that, it's all practice!" (Don't you get sick of hearing that about EVERYTHING???)
  9. Slightly off topic, but...My ex-dentist called them "vanilla envelopes". Obviously too much college.
  10. Thanks, guys! It didn't start out that dark. The body of it started Fiebing's Light Brown, which was far lighter than client wanted. So I put a couple layers of Dk. Brown on, still a bit light, but okay. The at the end, I rubbed in some of my finish concoction, which darkened it considerably! I actually was a nice brown, with black airbrushed around the edge. Kind of lost that effect. When I delivered it, the client asked for two more holsters. So I guess I guess I get a second chance.
  11. The reinforcement is to hold the top of the holster open inserting/re-holstering gun. For my smaller gun holsters, (LCP, Kimber Solo, etc.) I just rely on the stiffness of the leather after forming. When I do use reinforcement, I use slightly thinner piece than the rest of the holster. It's considerably easier to form the holster that way. It just needs to add some thickness, not necessarily double it. My opinion only. Holes there do look big. Jeff
  12. Weldwood contact cement is not designed to adhere properly when wet. Also, as stated above, it doesn't need to be a thick coat at all, in fact fairly thin is best. Especially when you are going to have a visible edge. You can sand and burnish on edges with too much cement, and you'll still have a line between the parts.
  13. I see the holster is not wet-molded to the gun. And no strap of any kind. What are you planning for retention, as the gun is effectively horizontal in the holster? One doesn't want those yay-hoos at the corral laughing when the gun falls out. And don't sweat the basketweave flattening out at the fold, I know I've done it, and I'll bet almost everyone has on a early holster. It's a big part of the learning curve. A learning curve I'm still waiting to straighten out a bit. Jeff BTW, my first Mexican loop holster was my first holster, for a breaktop H&R revolver, and I won't even put the pics up on this forum. 'Cause it was NASTY!
  14. That is a great use of those closures. I've got a couple, and haven't figured out what to use them. Now I have to get a bike!
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