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About RockyAussie

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. For bags and backpacs and wallets etc I would try and find a cylinder machine to start with like a Pfaff 335 or Adler 69 or there are a lot of clone copies of these that some of the sponsors on this site could help you out with. The 2 I mention here have a small cylinder diameter around 46mm there abouts and come in handy when you have tight areas to get into. Many use a table top attachment with these to give them in affect a flat surface to work on.
  2. RockyAussie

    Sig P365 n shark

    Hey Gary if the problem you are having is along the lines in this picture below you could try using the slotted needle plate or if you have not seen it yet here is a post I did awhile back might be of interest. Problem below shows what happens when trying to sew close to the edge with the standard dog foot/needle plate.
  3. RockyAussie

    glueing leather together

    At that thickness I would make sure the 2 pieces are sanded rough to help good adhesion but make sure that the outside piece is a good 2" or so longer. Without gluing wrap one piece around your waist and then the other on top and you will see that there is a huge difference. If there is too much difference when they are put together the glue will have a hard time holding it together. I would split the difference between out straight and curved all the way around and I'm thinking that's about 2". Getting it stitched would be a good idea.
  4. RockyAussie

    fix leather coat that ripped -w pics

    What you are suggesting sound about right to me. Before you start though ALWAYS make sure that what you are about to fix is worth fixing. There is no point throwing good money into a thing that is no good any longer. If you find that a with little pressure that the rip opens up more then show this to your customer because whatever stitching you do wont last very long and then you look at fault. If it is only sheep skin ...don't bother you are wasting your lifetime.
  5. RockyAussie

    Rifle sling with scrollwork

    Very nice ...that will be one very proud uncle I reckon.
  6. Yes I have in the past milled leather in a drum which is like a large tumble dryer or front loading washing machine. The time it takes varies on the skin or skins being milled. Often pieces of carpet and even old sandshoes get thrown in to help it happen faster. The falling action helps it to soften. There are a lot faster machines for normal leather which use a series of pegs on one drum with a series of holes in alignment on the other drum. These turn and pull the leather through and can be a very aggressive method. Either method if overdone will wreck the fibres eventually and the softening process should ideally employ some oils if possible along with or instead of. If the skin you have is glazed then I would not look at milling it as it would craze crack everywhere. Not knowing the skin and how it is tanned I can only suggest applying several coats of Nivea cream(the one without any alcohol in it) and letting it soak in between applications. If it is a glazed skin a bit of quick rough sanding on the rough/flesh side can break the tension and make it a lot better to work with. This must be done so as to not let the sanding get hot in any one position or the skin can end up burned and harder. I think I may have shown a bit of this earlier in this post on some glazed skin cut for bangles. A dremel wont be of any help on this.
  7. RockyAussie

    machine - belt or bench sander edges?

    The answer really depends on whether you want it for hobby use or regular work use. Many of the cheaper products use bushes instead of bearings and I found out the hard way that going with the quality products is often in the end cheaper. A bigger factor also is the dust extraction as that fine leather dust aside from going everywhere also can build up in your lungs. If your thinking of long term production let me know and I'll load some pictures of a few different machines I use that do this type of work.
  8. RockyAussie

    Knife Sheath Template

    Small world isn't it. I still miss him a lot, as you say... he was a real good bloke. Loaned me $10,000 when I got into ostrich products manufacturing many years back but of course I then had to give his work priority at least until I paid him back. You never seen someone so unhappy to get his money back.. It didn't really change though as I still did my best when I could for him. You know ...he never told me he won all those years in a row or that he ever won anything at all. I only found that out at at his funeral where of all things they had a big screen showing all of his knives and awards. I had to leave a bit early
  9. RockyAussie

    Knife Sheath Template

    That was done to start with 2 pieces of wood routed out to receive the blade nicely then attached together. After that I sanded down until I liked the shape in relation to the knife and the thickness of croc that covers it. The tip and the other end were left short in the covering and from there Morrie made his silver pieces and trimmed the excess croc to the shape. The silver parts are then araldited and pinned onto the wooden section just covering slightly a little of the croc skin. Best as I can remember on that one. Some of them were really quite detailed in the making.
  10. RockyAussie

    Knife Sheath Template

    Yes the top ones are Australian saltwater crocodile, the top one is from a large elbow section and the bottom one is near to the tail tip. As for the sheaths in the last picture ....I made them along with a jeweller friend whose hobby was making the knives. I only made the exotic leather working parts and he made the silver attached parts. He won awards with his knives for so many years they actually have an award named after him today. Maurice (Morrie) McCarthy Here is a link that shows better some of his work - Thanks mate... I am going to have to find another knife maker so I can try out a few more of these I reckon.
  11. RockyAussie

    Clicker pressing. laser cutting, production work

    Thank you. These are what motivated me to get a 441 style cylinder machine. All the above was done at the time on a little 335 phaff cylinder machine.
  12. RockyAussie

    Pfaff 335, Adler 69 type Cylinder arm caps.

    Hi Tor, long time no see. I myself have only tried working with the ABS a couple of times and did not get great results. I did try the acetone on it and it seemed to work some. Mostly I use this pla+ which claims to be stronger than the abs and a few other alternatives. So far I can't fault it.
  13. I don't work with caiman skins so I cant say what size they use normally. The size of the salwater crocodile (porosus) skins we use varies a lot but an average would be around the 40cm. The sanding is from the back when sanding the bones. A couple of pictures of some bags I made show this better perhaps - This one shows that sometimes the skins can be very thick and as I said some good sanding machinery is needed. Note that the bones are very carefully sanded out at the edges as much as possible. These are all, as I said before attached to a fabric to stabilise the skin behaviour Here you see that the inner curve section has to have a zipper sewn to it and the outer edge has to be able to curve over and be sewn into the back of the bag
  14. Small or large it is possible but some good sanding equipment is required. To some degree you need to sand the bones out behind where you want to stitch. They are a fair bit of extra work and time to make. Also we normally don't do folded edges on these ones as in the first pic below. This is the same model without the folded edges This is a coin purse model This one may show the edging process a little better These crown style ones below are very popular but there is only one possible per crocodile of course.
  15. RockyAussie

    Clicker pressing. laser cutting, production work

    You could be right there depending on the overall size but I have found that if you tripoli polish the knives occasionally you can get away with the 19mm(3/4") for quite a few years. 10 to 12oz is only about 4to 5mm and I have knives that do that no problem. I don't generally do any saddlery type work but if its croc in Australia it often ends up in front of me. This first picture shows some prototypes I designed for a customer that wanted them for some campdraft prizes. They are a brow band, a couple of different spur straps and a single slobber strap all in imitation croc at this stage.Most of these are in the 12 to14oz range. When it came to the real croc stage the customer wanted a more simplified look as shown here