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About RockyAussie

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. Have you found a solution yet? I may be able to help. First make sure there are no bits of leather rubbish sticking to either of the 2 large wheels that the knife runs on as that will make the blade jump around and sharpen intermittently. Next make sure that the blade has not got any cracks through it and they can be hard to see. Turn the wheel slowly by hand and Carefully feel the top of the blade for any jumps. Where the blade is joined is often a place to watch for. There are a LOT of different things to adjust on these and sometimes a lot of knowledge is required when going from thick hard leather down to soft garment type leathers.
  2. Thanks for the input @Rahere. That sound like what we would called a French edge this side of the pond. Not quite what I am talking about but this Video shows a good example I think - Unfortunately this is a bit outside of a lot of peoples price range. I would love to have one though. These are some of the guides I have made for my little folder below (they work very well and cost very little to produce) The guides at the back in this picture are made for my roller machine and the squarer shaped ones at the front are the new ones I am working on that don't need a roller machine. This shows some of the strap work on the handles and as well the leather strapping used with the patchwork. I will try and get a video done up showing them in use in the next few days.
  3. WOW!!!! thanks @jimi that double needle juki set up is awesome but it would be great to see it doing some leather. Might be a little expensive though. The second vid is also showing a master of metalcraft in action and I can not help but admire his skills. Again it would have been good to see it folding some leather. I have been for some time printing some folders for my little folder rolling machine but I am starting to experiment with a design that does not need the rolling machine for those that want to do it by hand. (cheap, simple and efficient) Mostly I just want to see what other type of things people use to accomplish the job.
  4. Thanks @Constabulary. They look nice but it would seem you would end up with an exposed edge on one side of the strap with them ones, which is hard to imagine what that would be useful for. I have been working on some folding pieces that fold into the middle but I would like to see if anyone has any special tools or methods for that process already. Sounds better than above except that one side would be one big fat fold and the other more of a joined look. I expect that the technique would be quite time consuming unless there are any tools that can do such a fold?
  5. I am curious to see what sort of techniques and tools you would use to make folded leather straps such as used on a handbag?
  6. I think the machine I did this on along time ago has been packed away but I can show you where on some other machines if that is of any help. As your model pulls downward to go into reverse it would need the spacer at the top. On the machines in these pictures the forward stitch has the rod at the bottom and reverse is at the top. Note that on this 441 style machine that the plate that the stitching adjustment rod goes through is wider at the top to reduce the stitch length in reverse. It is common on these machines for people to further increase this measurement with a wedge to get a better reverse stitch length. On this old 331 Pfaff I have taken the plate on the front off all together to obtain a longer stitch length. This involved a LOT of checking first to be sure that the dog foot length etc would not go longer than the hole would allow. This allowed quite a lot wider stitch length than standard and I have had no issues in over 20 years with it. In this 335 style machine where I am pointing I could put in a spacer under this plate to reduce the forward length stitch in comparison to the reverse stitch length. By spacer I mean something on the one end to angle the plate. Some people use a washer. Myself I would print up a plate once I determined exactly how much angle it needed. A spring under the screw would be great if there were room as that would allow for variations if need be. Note that at the top in this case also has a wider section to correct the stitch length in reverse. Now this Adler below has one interesting feature in that it has an adjustable stopper to set which stops the forward stitching from being able to go longer than it is set to. Now if the forward stitch is limited by this stopper and the rod adjustment nut is turned out further then the reverse stitch length is free to still have a longer stitch in reverse depending on how far the nut is opened out. Note: on this machine the reverse plate gets smaller at the top instead of wider. (Just something to think about) I hope that this is of some help.
  7. Firstly I must thank @Uwe for his fantastic help to us all and his excellent video work. I can't say my answer here is all that good but here goes.....I ran into a similar problem on a different machine and how I fixed it was by putting a spacer under the plate that the stitch length adjustment rod goes through. By putting a spacer at the top you would stop the adjustment rod going up so high thus making the back stitch length shorter and conversely by putting a spacer at the bottom you would limit the forward stitch length whilst not affecting the reverse stitch length. You could possibly wind the knob back a couple of notches every time you went into reverse but the spacer idea would cut out the need to do this once you get the spacing right. Bad side to this solution is that you may lose a little off of the maximum stitch length going forward perhaps.
  8. Could be done if you are very mechanically minded but unless you have plenty of time to play with, you would be better off getting what you need from the start.Keep in mind that a bell skiver well set up can be used as a splitter quite well as well and that can save you a lot of floor space in the end. I had an early Fortuna many years back that operated the same as the machines you are looking at and was very happy to be rid of it. They can be modded up to have a separate motor for the bell and a separate suction which will take up more space but I would think it better to spend my time making money and not wasting it. Campbell Randall also stock the roller feet you may want for better skiving. If you have not checked my video's on skiving I would have a look as it will show one in operation and better than most others can achieve I must add.
  9. They look to me to be pretty much all the same but I would not be buying any of them myself in a hurry as none here come with an aspirator (suction device) Also I have a great preference to having the blade spinning at all times as I find I get neater results. When the feed is a slow start on these so is the blade spin and that in my past experience is not a good thing. I would recommend having a look at this Techsew model https://www.techsew.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/1164/s/techsew-sk-4-leather-skiving-machine-with-vacuum-suction-device/ or even better perhaps something like this FAV AV2 at Campbell Randall but with the vacuum working. You can see at about 20 minutes why the vacuum is worth having.
  10. A few pictures showing the texture might be good to see if you would care to post some.
  11. I think a lot of the steps that kgg has done may help but I would also check to see what results you get when you don't have the thread going under that spring thing down below the thread take up lever. I had a lot of problems once sorting out a similar problem on a 441 variant that for some reason had a similar spring guide set up and once I got rid of the spring holder piece it behaved it self way better. Older machines never had these at all and I have to ask if anyone could explain how this contraption could be of any benefit in this location? Threads often take on a memory from the coil they are on and often there is a fair bit of wriggling around as they come through all of these thread paths so to me putting in a flat holding wiper is just asking for problems. Why do they make the tension disks so smooth and curved and decide that after all that to put in a flat holding piece???? If you know why please let me know.
  12. Couple of things I would try here is 1st don't put the thread under that last little spring guide thingy as I have found that any little thing like that the can interrupt the flow after the spring tension disks can cause an issue and secondly I would make sure the first knob with the +/- on it is set very loose. Lastly ...make sure that you have the foot pressure down enough to not let the job raise up with the needle coming out as that will also give a very uneven erratic stitch knot location.
  13. A picture showing what you are trying to stitch set up in the machine will help. One picture with the front foot up fully and one with it fully down taken from the cylinder end view. It could be that the leather is too soft and spongy and needs a larger needle. Could be the back foot is badly height adjusted or could be a different foot may work better such as the one that presses down in front of the needle.
  14. I think that I agree with Wizcrafts about changing the thread but will add that I think that the needle hole looks a little wrong as well. If it is an LR shape then turn it slightly more around and see if it behaves any better. With the bobbin thread ....try pulling it up when it is in the machine and feel if there is any variations in pressure. If there is it could be bad bobbin winding (most common) or the bobbin is rubbing in the case. Try a different bobbin.
  15. Here is a link to a video showing the knife pouch I did last week and a little bit on some of the steps at the end.
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