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About RockyAussie

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. RockyAussie

    Pfaff 335 Issue

    I agree fully
  2. RockyAussie

    Watch bund strap

    Excellent looking work @Danneand a nice design touch with the attachment method as well.
  3. RockyAussie

    Bell Skiver, Top and Bottom Feed,

    A little bit yes. Bit like a 4 wheel drive compared to a 2 wheel drive. For heavy leathers and rubber and such then yeah go for the top/bottom but for most leather work except perhaps saddlery work I would not have one if you gave it to me. They are a pain and slow to alter the settings and get right but if you are doing a LOT of the same setting and its heavy stuff the go that way. (1to 2mm would be very easy on a bottom feed) If I wanted to skive 4/5mm of firm temper I would do a double pass if it were a wide and thin skive required. At near to the end of this video I did awhile ago you can see me skiving some pretty firm temper leather on a bottom feed but note I am using a roller foot which I use always on anything as can be seen in other skiving videos I have done. I hope to get another vid up soon showing some belt skiving stuff on it as well.
  4. A close up picture of the needle just entering the leather might help here. What type of needle is it and have you tried replacing the needle yet with a new one?
  5. RockyAussie

    Hello, this is my first post.

    Thanks @sainte that looks interesting and I do look forward to seeing it all come together.
  6. Have you checked how the machine operates after you did the steps in Uwe's video of setting the needle height and adjusting the needle to shuttle relationship up to 4.2 minutes in on the video? This is shown in the manual you linked to on page 11 step 14. The same step Bob has shown. If you have this correct then you should not be getting any missed stitching at this stage. The rest of the steps can be difficult to get right and may not be necessary to do anyway. I have done this whole process following Uwe's video and it can help but as I said generally you should not need to go beyond any steps shown up to getting the timing position of needle to shuttle relationship.
  7. Been thinking .......If the screw is so bloody tight are you absolutely sure that the timing has shifted there and not that the needle bar has been knocked upward????
  8. Here are a couple of pics of the screw extractors I got last weekend. Big for this job I think but a specialist bolt and nut place should have something along this line that would do the job.
  9. That is a shame. I will have to think more about the problem then. I same as you have no idea how to get that screw out without major surgery of some sort. Drilling it out would seem to be the only solution. In the hardware store last week I picked up a set of 3 screw extractors that are like a drill bit that cut in reverse that were fairly cheap but I have not had a chance to try them yet.($6.00 au ...I couldn't resist) A reverse drill bit a little smaller than the thread would be best I think.
  10. How bad is this timing issue? I presume you are getting some missed stitching happening when you go into reverse? Or are you getting the needle not going back into the same holes?
  11. RockyAussie

    Bag hangers, bangle hangers etc

    No No No croc ones. I dont think they would wash that well my friend. Here is a link to a video I made showing a bit on us making them and cutting them out with pla patterns I printed up for the job. The lovely models at the start are my Granddaughters.
  12. RockyAussie

    Bag hangers, bangle hangers etc

    Not sure if this will get you off ya but Bert. I found doing the drawings and with these type of machines that work away by themselves you tend to be ON your but a bit more. Mate if I can ever stop making these dam face masks I might just look into that idea. Every time we get some packaged up to send there goes another ting. Seems more people see my website than I ever thought. Now if only I could get my handbags to sell like that but I cant see them being mandatory any time soon.
  13. RockyAussie

    Techsew Problems

    Just an observation......Your top tension looks to be too tight. When either the bobbin or top tension is too tight on supple type leathers you will often get a stitch length variation which can be worse when the machine does a reverse stitch. Firstly I would check that you can stitch through this leather in a continuous run and get the tensions showing up in a similar way, meaning no going up and down on and off. If you have it right there will be no shortening of the leather length from what it was to start with.(alittle longer perhaps) Back your foot pressure off until you can raise it by lifting the foot with your hand. I generally set my foot pressure back until the job wants to lift with the needle then screw it down a couple of turns. (you may have to consider taking out the small spring inside if you have not already) The needle size you are using is too large a size for this leather with this thread. Also that thread looks a bit like a slippery type thread and it may be worth trying another type to help rule that out as 1 potential problem. (they can be difficult to get the tension right sometimes on slippery threads). Try a firmer leather and see if that works and if the stitch does not return back into the same holes THEN start looking into under machine adjustments.
  14. RockyAussie

    Bag hangers, bangle hangers etc

    Thanks guys. Bert ....Get a printer mate. Once you get the hang of doing the drawing stuff in a cad program the possibilities are almost endless. I think if I were starting off today into manufacturing leather goods I would have to put the 3d printer near to the top followed closely behind with a small watt laser (2.5). Not only do I save a lot of time and money on knives by printing out some of the cutting templates many of the components now get cut out on the little laser. That has cut my knifing costs in half. Just the other day I decided to try cutting the material we use in our wallets and purses with the laser and wow its fast (1100mm per minute) and sealed up edges as well. For doing up prototypes and small numbers they are truly a God send. Here the cardboard is cut first with the laser to give me a way of positioning the magnets needed to hold the fabric while the laser cuts the fabric. Once I have the magnets positioned I remove the cardboard template and hit the go button. Beautiful clean sealed edges in 4 minutes. All of the leather pattern parts were cut out in cardboard in a few minutes as well. Way nicer than having to carefully cut out each piece sooooo carefully with a knife by hand. With some luck I will get this prototype model done today.