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About RockyAussie

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. There are a whole lot of varying factors that may need to be considered such as the thread take up spring pressure etc but ...to simplify this tension question, if the leather is thin or soft you would normally run light spring pressure on both the top and bottom tensions. If the tension is too tight it will gather the leather together. If you were doing firm leather then you would run a tighter pressure top and bottom. As a very rough guide on most machines you would start off by having your top tension adjustment so that the the screw adjustment was close to half way in. If you had say 9 full turns of adjustment untill you could screw in the top tension no tighter then the starting point ideally would be about 4 and 1/2 turns out. This then means that you have the most adjustment possible tighter or looser on the top tension. Once that is set you then set your bobbin tension so that it can be pulled out by hand reasonably easily to start with then test stitch and adjust until the bobbin spring pressure balances the knot consistently. This should give you a setting that for most leather only requires adjusting the top tension. The top tension is then way easier to adjust on the run if needed which is something I do when the thickness or stiffness changes on jobs as it does sometimes. Foot pressure is also important to adjust on the run sometimes etc. In this video I start with some fabric and the tension is tighter than it should be but not shown is where I tighten the top tension several times as I go up into the thicker stiff leather -
  2. Rubber soles need fairly rough sandpaper to cut away well and that means the grinders you show above lack the horsepower to do the job. A 1 horsepower would be a better choice. The https://www.justwood.com/buy/75mm-sleeveless-drum-sander_34.htm link is reasonably useful up to a point and I have used it for sanding edges of leather when making belts etc. This link shows a video where I have used a couple of 1/3hp motors and similar sanding drums to sand belt edges if that helps - What rpm is ideal will depend on the diameter of the sanding drum as the surface contact area is what is what counts. The smaller the drum the slower the contact speed. On a 6" drum 3000 rpm will be too fast. I would think about running a transfer pulley set up to allow for changing speeds to what ever you find works best. As a rough guide I would expect a rpm of around 1500 would be a good starting point for most applications as long as the motor has sufficient horsepower. The pvc pipes do work well for the dust extraction and they are attached to a 2 hp extractor unit.
  3. Darn that is some nice looking stuff. Wish that pond was not so large, for that price . I got no plans for overseas travel but if I ever get over there I am gonna visit for sure.
  4. Yes I believe that rpm speed is way over ideal. You can get a crepe rubber stick for cleaning the sandpaper up which can help but overall a finishing machine would be the best bet really. They generally are good at removing most of the dust as you sand at that is more important for your health.
  5. That is what I was afraid I might see. Without picking up another head somewhere I think it will be pretty hard to get going but that said ...the vacuum part and table of it could be worth an easy $200+. If here in OZ I would pay that and more. IF you could work in close with one of the dealers and if one is close by then you may be able to find some compatible parts.
  6. It has some similarities to a Fortuna skiver but I can not see from your pictures how the sharpening stone can be driven. Normally there is a belt that feeds inside through the machine and that hooks over the back right pulley set up. Some other machines run off a clutch that is on the right front pulley but I see no front control knob to actuate it. Otherwise I see a fair bit to do but the part that worries me most is that there is no cover over the back gearbox that transfers the motion to the feed roller. If you turn the back right pulley clockwise by hand does the feed stone revolve alright? The bell looks to have plenty of metal left so that's good. The left cover that is missing should not matter to start with. I will try and load up a pdf file that may be to large as that may help a little. Best of luck.Fortuna 50 p ag.pdf
  7. I would be doing a binder edge either fabric tape or leather if you prefer. I am not sure but you may have come in a little too far from the edge when connecting the gusset to the front section. 1/8" in would be my guess would work best which I think would make the gusset area not stick out so much. NOT to bad overall though..
  8. Sometimes I use a vinyl and sometimes along with backing with stiffeners but having some cheap real leather is the best way to go. If you know that you are only using it for pattern work prototyping you can normally pick up crappy leather that nobody wants to buy for a giveaway price. If he is close enough call @nstarleather or email him as I think he may be able to help nstarleather@shtc.net
  9. when you have it set up and working and you are familiar with how to get it to print let me know if you need some help. I would be happy to do that for you. Show me the type of product you want to do and any ideas of the pouch design and I will do my best. The customer is very pleased which is always a +. The tabs I have not done before but for doing a lot in a day it was the best I could think of and so far it works well. For those into 3D printing ....the tabs are solid and done in 2 parts then glued together. This is to give the best strength to the pressure pull on the tab. The other parts are 2mm walls including top and bottom with a 30% fill. All up this one chewed up about 700 grams. Took longer to print than it took me to design.
  10. This video shows how I have made up a 3D printed mould with retaining clips for wet moulding a pliers pouch. The customer for this job wants to cast up to 28 pouches in a day which will require a few moulds to allow some drying time in between castings. This is also why I designed the retaining clips to allow for a quick clamping method which would not require any extra hardware to be used between castings. This is my first prototype version at the moment and I will try and do up a finished pouch by Christmas. If you do any pouches on a repetitive basis and would like to know more contact me. Follow my channel if you want to see more on how it is made.
  11. Doubt it will help by other comments on this page but I have to say that like a lot of stuff these days the whole world just seems to be going nowhere very quickly. https://www.facebook.com/theupsstore/
  12. For most stuff I make I need the narrow needle plate set and if you got a fair bit of time to spare for reading this post will show and tell why - While you are there if you check the video and have a look at my other videos on my channel you can see also a few on a Cowboy CB6900 which I believe the Cowboy people over that side of the pond call a Cowboy 1341 or the Techsew people call a 4800. This is just one of the few - Note I think it is a great machine for wallets and bags but it would not be my personal choice for heavy duty knife pouch and holster work.
  13. On some machines that would be true but for certain not with this model. Slow or fast the oil feed is happening. The 4800 has a square drive feed that means you have a more reliable consistent stitch length when going over thick and thin sections.
  14. It may help also if you have a picture that shows the non binding kit pieces. I have both a 335 binder clone and a similar one that is not with a binder but there are quite a few differences such as the feed dog being able to reciprocate instead of only going back and forth,distance of the needle hole position from the end etc. The hook and perhaps the feed dog may just need to be moved to line up correctly (left or right) but I cant think why the timing would need to be changed.
  15. I have a bit of an odd shape knife here and I have not done a pouch for one like this before. I am wanting to stitch 2 lines around the outside edge but it would be nice if I did not do any stitching on the fold over I think. Because of the welt I am thinking i will have to do at least one line there. Do you think that would look alright? or should I do 2 lines all the way? This picture is to show how the welt goes fully around -
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