Matt S

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    nr. London, England

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  1. Matt S

    Stitching along a ridge

    That's an interesting find, I'll file it away under "will be useful one day". As you say it'd be hard to do the ends with a full width hollow in the foot. With a half width hollow and an edge guide on the right of the needle it might work though. Where? On the final belts it's about 9SPI, which is fine. It's a trouser belt not a harness trace -- so long as the holes aren't postage stamping the leather it's a purely a matter of taste. This is TKT20/V138 thread, much above 7SPI it starts looking like a racing stitch. On the first attempts yes the stitch length was too short. Partly due to the feet not feeding the leather too well and partly cos I hadn't increased stitch length setting to compensate for the extra thickness (pendulum needle motion).
  2. Matt S

    Stitching along a ridge

    I'll give it a try but the piping feet I have wouldn't be a good fit for the shape of these belts.
  3. Matt S

    How To Run A 3 Phase 380V Motor On 220V

    I had the same thought when I bought a 3-phase splitter. Turns out those magic boxes release the magic smoke if any switchgear between the motor and the controller changes state while it's running. They also need to be tuned to the load and aren't really recommended for running multiple motors. My machine has 4 motors, all different RPMs and power requirements. I left the electrogubbins in the control cabinet alone and just built a static converter.
  4. Matt S

    Stitching along a ridge

    Several other lopsided outer feet were tried, to similar effect. I tried a blanket inner foot but it tore up the bridle leather too much. I was considering grinding a spare double-toe outer foot so the left toe was 2mm higher than the right, or even slipping one of the presser bars up or down. Then it hit me. This machine uses the common 111-style feet. These have the inner foot held onto the presser bar with a screw tightened split collar but positively positioned with a small ridge on the bar. A quick experiment with the foot installed 2mm too low on the bar showed I was onto something but I didn't trust the foot not to slip up the bar in use. So I cut a piece of scrap split into small washer that was a snug fit on the inner foot presser bar. Boom. Perfect fit and function, even turning round the ends. All the weird symptoms disappeared and now all I have to worry about is user error. That'll do.
  5. Don't know if this is of interest to anyone but I reckon some people might encounter this problem or something similar. Recently I decided I wanted to teach myself how to make raised-panel belts. So I did. The most confusing issue I came across I'd never expected nor heard of: my W/F machine (Seiko LCW-8BL) was throwing a fit. Tension wouldn't balance; thread jams; uneven feed; unenevn stitch length. Re-threaded, wound a new bobbin, tried needle sizes up and down, tried a smaller bobbin thread, even checked the timing. Couldn't finger it quite out. Then I realised that the way I was sewing, the inner foot was bottoming out 2mm lower than the outer. Here we have a clear shot of the issue: The raised panel is around 6mm thick, and the lower rim about 4mm. First attempt was to use one of my "delicately modified" outer feet, which have had the left toe amputated with the 40grit sparkmaker. This looked like it should work and indeed worked okay on the straight, but the marginal contact by the outer foot went down to about zero as soon as I started turning the ends of the piece.
  6. Matt S

    Someone in Oz to take my 2mm veg split FREE

    Glue and stitch back-to-back to make low-cost "rough out" belts? Maybe not good enough for Wild Harry but if you could produce them fast enough they'd be plenty strong enough for a lower-price leather belt.
  7. Matt S

    Crowdfunding Buttero

    AA Crack, leather wholesaler in Northampton, England, carry buttero. They will sell as little as a single piece. We're still in the EU (for now) so you shouldn't pay import tax (but you will pay VAT, as you would buying from any company within the EU unless you're registered). If you want to set yourself up as a dealer knock yourself out and best of luck to you. If you're just trying to provide a semi-altruistic service to fellow leather-crafters, you can save yourself a lot of aggro by just buying it from an existing dealer. Tanneries often have large minimum order quantities, or flat out don't deal with the general public.
  8. Matt S

    Heated Edge Creaser - on a budget

    Yes, if you have a better way of making a crease than heating the tool please share.
  9. Matt S

    Heated Edge Creaser - on a budget

    It works better than cold.
  10. Standard motors for industrial sewing machines tend to start around 500W. Even at gearing between 1:1 and 1:2 they rely partially on inertia to get though the tougher parts of the stitch cycle. It looks like steppers would overcome this low-speed-low-torque issue but there isn't much research out there on their application to sewing machines. Remember that your patcher is not designed for motorisation -- there's nowhere convenient to mount a pulley and I suspect that it's not very well balanced when spun any faster than you can turn by hand.
  11. Matt S

    Manual for old USMC Model 82 Band Splitter?

    My 12" Fortuna has 4 different motors: knife, feed (2-speed), blower, grinder. Various speeds and powers ratings. Total consumption around 1500W. I'd love to see how the different functions are powered in your buddy's new machine.
  12. Matt S

    burning thread near cement glue

    Yep, been there done that. But then I was trying to speed the drying process with a blowtorch...
  13. Matt S

    Leather strap cutter for soft leather

    How soft is soft? Medium soft stuff I cut with a wooden strap cutter but the difference between a cheap one and a decent one is enormous. Ignore the "correct" blades and get a pack of Schick injector blades -- same price, much better. I need 5ft straps to match back to back with no noticeable difference in width. Went from maybe 40% reject rate to about 5%.
  14. Population paste you mean? That list is what I've made work, not what I've tried...
  15. In no particular order I've had more success than with gum tragacanth burnishing with: gum arabic, wallpaper paste, white PVA glue, spirit dye, spit/saliva, industrial alcohol, Sharpie, diluted clear acrylic, shellac/French polish, water based varnish, glycerine hand soap, plain tap water, paste saddle soap, those clear glue pens kids use... the effectiveness of any of them depends on technique and the individual piece (tannage, finish, each individual hide and sometimes even where in each hide it comes from). Can't say I've ever tried CMC and I don't know how cheap it is, but plenty of these options are free or nearly free.