Matt S

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    nr. London, England

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  1. Matt S

    Seiko ch-8b

    FWIW Seikos are very well built machines. It takes a lot of use to wear one of them out. One of mine had 20 years of factory use and 10 years of disuse before it came to me, and I don't think it's missed a beat ever since. My preference, all other things being equal, would be for an older machine from a premium manufacturer over a newer Chinese-built machine. I'm sure that there are many well made Chinese machines, especially those that have been set up and warranted by respectable dealers, but I've got my fingers burned a few times and I have a taste for quality tools -- I have been spoiled by using Singer, Adler and Seiko! Consider also that that Seiko has probably depreciated in value as far as it's going to any time soon, whereas if you sell it the day after you buy it that Cowboy may have dropped 20%. Are you likely to want much in the way of accessories for your machine? Flat bed tables, specialist feet, edge guides etc. I ask as there is far fewer aftermarket stuff available for the CH8 than the 441 type.
  2. Matt S

    setting copper rivets with press

    Press mounted hole punches are pretty common. They're like £5-10 a piece here in the UK for smallish round ones on their own, £15 including the brass anvil, or maybe £20-30 for slot punches. There's a few different standards for threads and fitting so you have to shop carefully. Burr/saddlers rivets are usually set by hand in leatherwork but similar rivets are set mechanically in other fields all the time, often in building aircraft, restoring classic cars, and various forms of engineering/blacksmithing/fabrication. Usually there's an riveting gun involved (electric or pneumatic) or there's a special sort of squeeze press, either manual or hydraulic. I looked at this sort a while back, when I was looking at setting a quantity of copper saddlers rivets deep inside pouches. In the end single cap tubular rivets turned out the be plenty strong enough but I was going to buy something similar to this: You can get basic ones for under £100, with different shaped "head" dies. You'd probably have to seat the burr manually, or maybe with an adapted top tool in a normal bench press. However the skilled/difficult/noisy/time consuming part of setting a copper rivet is mushrooming the head, and these take care of that quickly, silently, and very repeatably.
  3. Very nice work! I just got the HoG pattern pack, trying to decide between that and one of Will's 1911 centenary designs for my first holster.
  4. I'm with Tor -- your shuttle looks quite serviceable (certainly better nick than either of the ones I have). What issues are you having with it? Not sure what thread form the tension spring screws are but even if you have to send the remaining one to a machinist to be duplicated it'll cost you less than a new shuttle. How's your tension spring? There was a chap on here a few years ago who was gearing up reproduce them but he's dropped off the radar. Also, if CAN$560 doubles the price of your machine you should see the price of a new machine that can do similar work. Juki 441s are about £/€/$7K new. Chinese 441 clones are about 2-3K. Incidentally, it looks like your No6 was fitted with a wax heating apparatus, though bits appear missing. There's not many complete setups left. Any chance of some closeups?
  5. Matt S

    New member from the UK

    Well you can't get much more official than that! How specific was it? Plenty of guidance on bladed articles, often from major police forces/services available over here but not a bean have I found regarding coshes/saps/blackjacks. I wonder if anyone from a reenactment group from GB has a similar list, or some other specific guidance regarding blunt weapons?
  6. Matt S

    New member from the UK

    "cosh" doesn't appear in the relevant Act, nor the Schedules to the Act (we looked at that, as well as "blackjack"). It's pretty short list of what's outright banned TBH. About the only blunt instruments on the list are fixed and friction-locked batons (truncheons). If you can find such a list of "allowed weapons" I would be interested to read it, but honestly I doubt that such a thing exists from any reputable source.
  7. Matt S

    Share your CAD files,STL's etc

    Yeah but now I've got to go out and buy a 335!
  8. Matt S

    New member from the UK

    Just spoken with a friend who is a currently serving policeman. Neither of us can find saps or similar implement on the "naughty list" so they would appear quite legal to own, make, sell etc. (this side of the Bristol Channel @fredk!) but they clearly count as "made or adapted to cause injury" and therefore not legal for general carry without "good reason or lawful authority". It goes without saying that I am not a lawyer, nor do I play one on TV. The above is simply two chaps' personal opinions. @Raindog951 going back to your original post, I like hardboard for making larger templates. It's easily cut, drilled and shaped even using basic hand tools; you can layout directly on it with pen or pencil, or glue a paper pattern to it; it's nice and grippy on the back (doesn't slide around like acrylic); it's dimensionally stable so long as you keep it dry; and it's dead cheap -- an 8x4 is usually under a tenner, and if you ask at your local timber yard you can usually get big offcuts for pennies.
  9. Matt S

    Is it possible to mould chrome-tanned leather?

    Brian your posts are a constant inspiration. I've been having good results with my resin printer but the main limiting factor is the small print size. More jigs and guides than shells if you see what I mean. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a filament printer after all!
  10. I may be wrong, but isn't Renia SG their water-based rubber cement substitute? I used to used Renia 315, which is their water-based neoprene. One of the reasons I stopped using was the gumminess and it took a long time to dry enough that I could sew it. I would imagine that the SG is even gummier.
  11. Matt S

    New member from the UK

    Welcome, @Raindog951! Whereabouts in the UK are you? A fair few of us on here these days. I've sent you a PM.
  12. Matt S

    Industrial machines. (Video)

    @luxuryluke Thanks for sharing what you found. 99% of us will never encounter such beasts, but it's interesting seeing what's on the cutting edge of the industry. There's often some useful nugget that we can use -- I'm starting to use simple placement jigs a little like the large one in the last video in producing some of my standard products, though they go through standard sewing machines rather than modern pattern stitchers. I think I'm going to have to study that video a few more times and steal borrow some ideas.
  13. Matt S

    Industrial machines. (Video)

    Don't forget "is that large pattern stitcher available in treadle or line shaft format?"
  14. Matt S

    Is it possible to mould chrome-tanned leather?

    It can be done on some chrome tanned leathers. I've played around a little but never put enough time into it to make anything useful, other than blocking some keeper loops or ironing creases into folds or out of stuff that's supposed to be flat. The key tends to be heat (150+ degrees C), though that heat can be enough to ruin any finish on the leather, depending on the leather. Most chrome tans are largely unaffected by water, though I've found that very hot water does improve the mouldability of ones, and then you often run the dye. I don't think that any chrome tanned leather can be moulded to the extremes that veg tans can, but heat embossing (with a maker's mark, a monogram etc.) is basically the same thing, just on a far smaller scale so in theory deep mouldings can be done. Perhaps it's heresy on this forum, but a lining or backing of a stiffer thermoplastic sheet like HDPE or kydex glued to the leather before moulding might help. Thinking outside the box a little, I wonder if a vacuum forming machine could be used with chrome tanned leather? It's essentially doing the same job (evenly heating a thermoplastic to within its plastic range, then quickly forming it over a mould before it cools). Check out Checaflo doing some raised work in upholstery leather:
  15. Matt S

    Tape measure holder clip

    I'm with @$$hobby -- sketch one out and message people who offer fabrication services. It's not a complex part. Consider anyone in your local area who does welding, forging, vehicle repairs or machining in your area, especially as a hobby or side gig. What sort of quantity are you after? A dozen wouldn't be difficult or take long to fab up yourself, even with basic tools. Get a strip of the right size and type of steel. Cut billets to length with a saw or shear. Use a template or jig to mark holes with a centre punch then drill through. Remove any burrs with a file or a kiss of the belt sander. The trickiest bit would be the cranked bends, as they're pretty close to each other. You can get bending tools that fit in a bench vice, though they might need a little modification due to the closeness of the bends. For more than a dozen clips I would make a simple bending die for one of my presses. Lots of ways to do that, especially if you can do simple welds (or know someone who can). Is there an off-the-shelf part you could use instead for the same job? What about a footman loop, or maybe you could modify a strip-formed belt loop?