ScottEnglish

Thanks for the reply tozafoot. I used chrome-tanned leather because it's what I had available. I've looked at your website with interest having first become aware of it through your posts on this website. Like you I have an interest in foot shaped footwear with a flexible sole.

Thanks for telling me what copperas are TomE. Now I realize why you included Hasluck's recipe in your post.

Thanks everyone for your replies. For those who asked about my source regarding vinegaroon waterproofing leather here it is: https://www.adamsleatherworks.com/post/vinegaroon-a-k-a-vinegar-black See under subheading Worth mentioning. They actually say vinegaroon makes leather more water resistant. I was incorrect in saying waterproof.

Apparently, vinegaroon/vinegar black waterproofs leather so if you wish to mould it you need to do this before immersing the leather item in to the vinegaroon. Would the same hold true for a solution of iron sulphate powder and water? Thanks.

A member of these forums has used a solution of iron sulphate powder and water to colour leather black. Does anyone else use iron sulphate? Would you recommend it? I'm learning to make a simple boot. I'm concerned as to whether the solution will weaken the polyester thread I use for stitching and damage the natural crepe rubber sole if I immerse a boot in a solution of iron sulphate and water once it's assembled. Thanks.

Thanks for the posts zuludog. An arris is a sharp edge at the meeting of two surfaces at an angle with one another, as at two adjacent sides of a stone block. So says Collins.

I bought two Kyoshin Elle stitching awls. I like the small, bare wood handles. The awls are more finished than the saddler's harness awls made by George Barnsley. However, they are still not adequately finished and the arrises are rounded over. Lesson learned. I will have to master sharpening fiddly awls!

I did buy a Japanese skiving knife made by Kyoshin Elle. Considerable work was necessary to make the primary bevel flat and uniform in width and the cutting edge straight. I also lowered the angle of the primary bevel. Unlike a George Barnsley English-style paring knife the cutting edge didn't need a secondary bevel. The back of the knife was concave. It took a ridiculous amount of time to lap it flat. Never again. In summary I liked the steel but thought the knife poorly made.

Thanks tsunkasapa. I shall try not sanding next time and see what happens. Tugadude: Thanks for the reply.

From what I learned in this topic I decided to buy two Japanese stitching awls by Kyoshin Elle. Thanks to everyone for your contributions. Scott

Before bonding a rubber outsole to a leather insole I sand the leather on the flesh side to, apparently, improve the bond. Has anyone observed whether the sanding stage is actually necessary? Thanks. Scott

Thanks PastorBob. tsunkasapa: At 3/32" wide at the prong the hole will be small. My 2 1/4" saddler's awl makes a larger hole. Am I mistaken?

Hi. I am considering buying a C. S. Osborne one-prong thonging chisel for making stitching holes. The chisel is available in a width of 3/32". Or 2.4mm if you prefer. Has anyone tried this? Thanks. Scott

As no interest has been shown I am withdrawing the sale of the leather. Scott

Thanks Gulrock and chuck123wapati.