fredk

If you study the photos the machine comes with a set of rollers so just the edge can be skived and in the spiel it says; quote; Equipped with 4 different sizes of rollers to choose from, in order to achieve different peeling width. end quote Don't wait on me; it could be months before I get around to using it PS; some of these use a peculiar type of blade, some, like mine, use the cheaper and easier to get blades as used in box cutters [aka Stanley knives]

Nothing that I've come across Over the last couple of years I've been lightly researching what 1800s Westerner's wore; items such as chaps, shirts, trousers, vests. I've not come across any single book on either these together or individually. I have now accumulated about 30 books on various aspects of Western life, simply to get the photos within those books. One thing I've not done this time but I did do when researching Medieval clothing and accessories was to contact museums. I contacted them for brochures and postcard pictures of items in their collections. In a few cases the museums had books produced by archaeologists, very specialised books and very expensive [3 books from Dublin museum were over £50 each] and not normally available to anyone outside of academia. Thus I'd advise you to contact the very numerous museums throughout the Mid-West and ask for copies of their hand-out brochures and postcard photos of items. If you go to 'True West' website they often have details on some of the museums and what their collections consist.

I bought one of these recently: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sewing-Leather-Splitter-Edge-Skiving-Tool-Leather-Craft-Device-Paring-Cutter-/254213890096?hash=item3b30542030 1. Mine cost £26 2. I've not had the opportunity to use it yet 3. Allegedly they need careful setting up to work correctly but once set up they work great

interesting piece of furniture mmmm, my thumbs are itchy, I'm getting the feeling that this was made in the 1930s/early part of 1940s. Looks like the wood was scumbled, probably a cheap pine or white wood underneath. Very nice piece for all that anyhows

I've wet moulded in thickness from 0.5mm to about 4mm. I reckon, maybe 3mm, or 2.5mm, 2mm at the thinnest for your requirement. The heavier the item, the thicker the leather. Recently I moulded a moblie phone holster for myself. I think the main moulded leather was about 2mm and it got a lining of 1mm leather.

I use a Chinese company, thru ebay, but I'm not sure they could do this one. I mostly get binary stamps made. I think this is one 3D printing would win on

tbh, I'd go the whole hog and get a brass stamp made for this. One stamp, used with hammer or press, will cost less than the tools needed plus it'll be quicker to reproduce in the small size and multiple copies. Where I get my brass stamps cut this would cost about £10. Either a brass stamp or a 3D printed one just some thoughts on it

I cut thru the lacquer coat with cellulose thinners. This usually removes some of the dye as well. On occasion I have left it partially dyed, then put fresh resolene on to seal it. It was done for a customer who wanted a 'well used' look to the item. Other times I have re-dyed in dark brown or black, then sealed that with resolene These hats were made out of chrome-tanned, pre-dyed upholstery leather. The brown hat on the left is untreated, the black one was done as said above;

yes. make sure to use a top quality glue and ensure all areas are well and truly coated, especially the edges. Maybe use a brayer to press the two pieces together.

In N.I. a name beginning with X has that letter pronounced as EX not as Zee. Thus Xena is Exena, Xavier is Ex-aavi-eer, not Zav-vier. Is it the same in France? H and Th have their own ways of pronunciation here as well

If, If, it suits your needs, go for it. What is a drive to get what you require? Decent roads, plenty of rest places, a tankful of motion-lotion. . . . In my reckoning; If I can drive there and back inside 24 hours, then its 'local', thus all of the island of Hibernia and most of Scotland is 'local' to me

aye, I've always found the same. Whenever I needed something made in the US, or for US companies, it was often very much cheaper and sometimes quicker to obtain it from a US retailer than a UK based US supplier eg. camera lens, made in Korea for a US company. about £1500 in the UK, imported from Honest Abe in New York, including s & h and all UK taxes £350. Delivery from Honest Abe; 4 days, from UK supplier estimated at 3 months. UK supplier was a US based professional photographic dealer for whom the lens was made.

Well, no-one has jumped in to answer you Is that light spot just lacking dye or is the leather worn away as well. What I would do is; wash the area down with cellulose/lacquer thinners. Do an area well beyond that which needs doing. Then dampen the leather and apply coats of thinned dye until the area reaches the density of the rest. Let that dry thoroughly, buff up then apply some coats of a thinned sealant. Start just doing the fixed patch, then after a few coats extend the coverage bit by bit over the old areas. When that is dry and looks well rub in some good leather feed as the cellulose thinners will have removed oils from the leather which the feed will replace. It'll take a few days, maybe a week to do properly.

1. Take a wet rag and really buff over the part you've already dyed. Use a light coloured cloth. Rub hard. If dye comes off your deglazer hasn't done its job 2. I use meths and water together to dilute resolene. Either just water or just meths will do, sometimes I just use water. 3. Yes, I do up to about 5 coats of thinned resolene. Sometimes just two or three is enough. Only if I want a matt finish will I wipe over with a rag wetted with meths. Meths is methylated spirits; a wood alcohol. In the UK it is purple coloured and usually sold by chemists shops 4. You'll not need to do very much. If it gets wet, just hang up in an area where slightly warm air can circulate around it to dry it. Don't leave it inside a car where the sun will bear down on it and overheat it. Maybe once a year wipe it over with a good brand of leather cleaner/conditioner

buy pre-dyed leather? try making your own dye? I only use Feibing's Acrylic dye as I cannot import the Pro-dye either. I just get on with the acrylic dye. And I've used some of Tandy's Eco-dye as well. ~Used proper its ok.