fredk

Very nice set up another difference in lingo: a door-kick panel on a door is a re-enforced panel so's ya can kick a door closed, an inset panel under a cupboard door so's ya don't keep kicking it with your toes is a plinth panel

1. if you reckon this is ruined as its now, try wiping it down thoroughly with lacquer thinners aka cellulose thinners 2 but be advised that the lacquer thinners will most likely take off a lot of the dye 3 this may or not work 4 after the thinners you'll need to re-dye and give it some nfo

yes, I do it as often as necessary if you 'dip dye' it gets dyed as a matter of course If you apply by sponge, the flesh side absorbs a lot of dye. I usually do the front/grain side first then see how much of that has soaked into the back then dye the back side/flesh side After doing the flesh side I like to rub in a wax mix as a sealer

1. These are the same. The maker keeps changing the name and I can't keep up. There are cheaper alternative out there which are the same formula and work just as good. eg, in the UK Pledge is about £15 for 750ml, I use 'Astonish' at £1 for 750ml Although this is not wet moulded its for showing sealing of leather Game board, over view, Close-up of a corner 1 after the squares were stamped and edges done by grooving the squares which I was going to paint and the squares I was not going to dye got two coats of 'Astonish' sealant 2. squares were painted using mainly Humbrol Acrylic model paints, also used were Vallejo and Revell acrylic model paints 3 after painting those squares got two more coats of Astonish, the squares not to be dyed got one more coat 4. the remaining squares got a few coats of oil dye, as did the leather surrounding the playing area 5. an 'antique' gel was rubbed into the lines between the squares. 6. about an hour after 5 one coat of sealer was applied to all five surfaces of the leather, that dried almost as fast as I put it on so it got a second coat overall right away 7 all was left overnight, about 8 hours then the nails in the sides were fitted. No dye or paint ran or was discoloured by the sealant

A big can of worms Basically, many pattern makers won't bother you if you only make a few, say up to half-dozen, items from their patterns and sell them. More than that and the pattern maker would look a fee, unless they've said 'only for personal use' or 'go and make lots' Tandy actually encourages you to use their patterns to make things for sale. The more you make the more you buy, hopefully, from Tandy Copying exactly someone else's product and selling yours is a big no-no. Using the product style to make your own version is better

Write to them. Tell them what you want to replace, the size you'd like. If they want to sell you the tools they'll soon tell you. If they don't tell you then don't deal

The US has a law that says you cannot photograph (still or moving) any person or place without the written permission of the person or place owner. Simple

I think your blade is too small. Its cutting only a few mm at a time so it can wander easier. The wider the blade the more it cuts. Even a box cutter blade is better Use a good straight edge for the . . . errr . . . .straight cuts. When I cut a curve I tend to not only draw the blade around but also to turn the leather. Often, on outside curves I use leather scissors/shears

There are many reasons for and against 1. I've just started to make a bag for my dottir. It going to be black*, so I bought a large piece of leather pre-dyed black. After cutting out the parts I only have scraps left. 2. I buy leather 10 to 30 sq feet at a time. If I buy one leather, say 20 sq feet, 2mm thick, predyed in tan brown I'm stuck with that, everything has to be tan brown. If I want or need to make something in red, I'd need to buy another hide in red, adding to additional stock costs. But by having un-dyed leather I can dye it whatever colour I want when I want. Keeps cost down to having one hide and just bottles of dye 3. If you are making on an industrial amount pre-dyed is cost effective but if like many on here, no more that 10 or so of the same its better cost wise to have un-dyed leather * this bag was going to be tan brown in 1.8 - 2mm leather but the supplier had run out so I got 1.4 - 1.6mm black. I didn't fancy dyeing 15 sq feet or so of leather tan brown; leading to 4. the tannery doesn't always have just what you need, when you need it

Don't diss yourself over that. I use a cheapo digital caliper as well. Its good enough to tell me which ball park I'm playing in. My expensive superior ones are in a tool box, unloved I've always called that part the ram

on cutting thin and/or slippery leather 1. use a straightedge with cork or rubber on the back 2. use a rotary knife

For the odd time I've had to burn off a thread I use a wood cocktail stick lit up by a tea-light candle. I often have one of those scented tea-light candles burning nearby.

When I made a dice cup with inset bottom I punched the holes for the sides. glued the bottom up into place then used a round awl to punch each hole through as I came to it (actually I did about 6 holes at a time) I know its not great work

Properly done even a basic sealer will make it keep its shape. It needs a real long term soaking and mushing about for wet-moulded leather to loose its shape A real good sealer I'm using more and more is the acrylic varnish sold as 'Pledge Floor Gloss'

no, it was a top gears cover to lower cover / engine nose / engine and also a dynamo mounting to the top gears cover