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fredk

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About fredk

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Donaghadee, Northern Ireland, UK - Recently voted the bestest place in N.I. to live!

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  1. Why does it need to be translucent? Frog Green or Yellow are low tack painters tapes. Green is lowest tack, but even Yellow is far lower than regular paper masking tape. I've been using them for years
  2. Further down the page a chappie has posted 'Templates' and he mentions his 'green tape' Ask him the brand
  3. The Shire of Glen Rathlin in the Principality of Insulae Draconis I'm a numpty when it come to this. I have a printer / scanner. If it works it will scan the page as an image
  4. Mix the bees' wax with some carnauba wax. That takes away the 'stickiness' of the bees' wax. Carnauba wax is safe to use
  5. I would not have it cut. That will ruin the point of it. The leather wrapping the compass in the photo above can be extended to hold the marble
  6. @Aventurine A teaser. I have accidentally found my files and book on Medieval shoes making which include many patterns and how to make them. These are from my time in the SCA, over 20 years ago. The information was freely available to SCA members back then but I've looked and its no longer available. There is no copyright on it so it would be ok to share it If I scan the pages I don't know how to turn them into a PDF. Therefore each page would be a jpeg. There are a lot of pages which will take lots of time, if my scanner decides to work
  7. I'll do the next up date in just over 2 months time. That'll take it to the 1 year. I reckon thereafter every 2 or 3 months
  8. Well, this is boring No changes at all to any of my test pieces. All the pieces hanging outside in sun and rain remain very flexible, more than the Control piece No fungus, no rotten smells - nuffin, nowt, zilch, nada All I can say, at this point, almost 10 months along, that any of the products can be used on leather, the only difference being how dark you want the leather to be after application Anyone still reading this? or still interested?
  9. I've never considered it. I've always cut dry. I might damp/wet cutting
  10. I know neither book but I'd choose Olaf's. I know his other works Neither book will help you with patterns. They are strictly for historians and archaeologists, very dry reading. If you are looking for guidance on pattern making look elsewhere
  11. Sponge wash with warm water and a doggie shampoo. Pat dry then hang to dry
  12. But you can spread the 8+ hours over a period I bought this repro knife earlier this year, straight from the forge, I have quite a few hours on it and I'm not finished yet
  13. The pokey hole bits are large. They are more suitable for sail making/repairing
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