fredk

You are still misinterpreting his 'folding'; His folding is bringing the front side of the holster over to the back side - the normal way you do to make a holster

Nice work on those wallets Morse is still very useful. Year before last was talking to a soldier. He'd been sent into an African country to help local LEO to rescue some hostages. The patrol was going thru a remote village when they heard some banging. All the patrol but him ignored the banging but he recognised it as Morse. Long story short - communication was made, one of the hostages was able to tell the patrol where they were and how many baddies there were. After a gun fight, result was 8 hostages freed, 12 baddies dead and another 3 taken prisoner.

I think there may be 'The Guild of Master Craftsmen' and 'The Guild of Master Craftsmen' A long time ago, when I had a business making wooden toys, all 'hand made' by craftsmen I was contacted by a 'The Guild of Master Craftsmen' and invited to join them. Basically they wanted £1500 per year as a member so I could use their logo and say I was a member, but there was absolutely no need to prove our quality or standards. Just sign up and pay the fee. It had, generally, the same aims as set out above.

I was told. An expert is someone who knows all about how you should do your job, but cannot do it himself

1. I think you need to look at your awl work. In 21 years of leatherworking I've never broken an awl, never even so much as bent a tip. Try using cork, a block or sheet, to poke your awl thru the leather into. If you can afford them, buy two* pair of these special pliers for making sewing holes; * 4-tooth as per the picture and a 2-tooth for going around corners and tight curves 2. If you have the holes prepared its better to use blunt saddlers, aka harness, needles for saddle stitching. Less chance of piercing the thread or cutting it with the needle 3. Contact glue really only stays on the surface or near the surface of the leather fibres, it also keeps the two leathers apart, very minutely. The hammering forces the glue deeper and forces the leather closer together. Just use a small nylon or rubber mallet to tap the leather along the glue line after joining the two pieces together, then clamp up till the glue sets 3a. We are assuming you are joining the leathers flesh to flesh. If you join a piece grain to flesh you need to roughen up the grain side otherwise the glue won't work very well 4. Here is how I'd tackle it. Cut the main piece very slightly over size. Cut the liner very slightly bigger than the main piece. Glue the liner to main piece. Plenty of glue along the edge joint of the two pieces. Tap/hammer around the edge Clamp the edges good and tight. Leave to let the glue set. Then trim the main piece down to correct size. Run a groover or wing dividers along the edge to mark the stitching line. Then mark and make the sewing holes on the front half of the holster. Fold holster over. From here, three or more options, 1. Glue the edges of the front & back halves together and make sewing hols in back side. 2. use double sided adhesive tape and make the holes or 3, hold together with temporary clamps, make just a few holes and use wire, thread or lace in those holes to hold the two halves together making other holes and for sewing

Good point, humidity here today is at 75% average, ie its raining somewhere here today

It would, if the leather needs nfo. I store my leather in large plastic boxes mostly, never applied nfo, never needed to

1. the Vasa was built in 1623, about 20 years after Lizzy 1 died 2. Standardisation and mass production of naval ships types did not come till the true Royal Navy under Charles II, 1660 to 1685. Lizzy still held to 'hiring' the private ships, then refused to pay them. She seized the Ark Rawleigh from Walter Rawleigh as she thought it was too powerful a ship for a privateer. She renamed it Ark Royal

Possibly the researchers looking thru old documents, newspapers, hand-bills have identified the words being used in the 17thC (= 1600s, not 1700s = 18th century) An example; 'square meal' - often thought to be of Royal Navy of about early 1800s, now known to have been used as far back as 1580s

I don't know those leathers, I have no experience of them If they are veg tanned; cased, veg tanned hand stamps easily, arbor pressed the stamp can make a good impression in dry or cased, cased is better but it can be done dry as well

I think you just need to look at your glueing up procedure. Plenty of glue and hammering the two pieces together before a good tight clamping up. Hammering as in going along the edge area with light mallet and tapping it with purpose, but not like you are trying to put a 6 inch nail thru a board in one hit

1. Its almost impossible to make a decent mark in chrome tanned leather just by cold pressing or hammering. You don't really need a hot machine, a good interchangeable tip soldering iron or pyrogravure will do 2. I prefer a press, an arbor will do the job 3. Brass all the way. Long lasting, will heat up easily 4. I get my stamps made in brass with a flat back and a 5mm tapped hole in the back centre. Then I can, if I want, put a 5mm threaded rod (usually supplied) in and slip it on to the soldering iron

If your referring to the dictionary - Webster's, Oxford Dictionary, Cambridge Dictionary, etc employ full time and part-time researchers who look for the oldest printed example of a word and in that by the context the word is used what it meant

Not just in the US, here as well. As soon as anything goes past the fence at the dump no one is allowed to recover it for any purpose Nice find on the bike,. Although I hate those hub gears. Sturmy-Archer? On my bike it always went out of synch too quickly

I think I have some of those saved. Most of them are small memory and I can email them but afair the 'Percussion Pistol Holsters' is a big memory and I can't send it by usual email. I need to look out a link another LWer gaveme for sending big memory stuff. PM me an email address and I'll send you what I can