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About AndrewWR

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  • Location
    North Wales
  • Interests
    Making stuff just to see if I can.

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  1. AndrewWR

    Pink leather

    Getting my Xmas making done early, this is a pencil case/make-up bag for my favourite twelve-year-old. The leather is Mama Pink , digitally patterned 0.6mm sheepskin from Pittards, for the bargain price of £19 for a whole skin (5-6 square feet). The lining is pearl white 0.8mm goat skin, also from Pittards. I'v got loads left over so she's probably going to get a matching phone case and maybe even a tablet sleeve too.
  2. Y'know, looking at that open bag shot, the age of the leather is working for you. It looks much more genuinely vintage than new leather with an 'antique' finish and everyone knows leather gets better with age: It has that in common with wine, women and songs. Those perfectly straight stitching lines are eye catchers too. Nothing speaks of quality like good stitching. Congratulations on the recognition and commercial success ('cos money beats ribbons.)
  3. @jcukThe whole hide wasn't enough. I ended up ordering a second one. They're Packers hides too. I don't know if one of them is a 'celebrity' hide but my coffee shop pals have nicknamed this bag the Joey Pouch.
  4. @TomEIf you're making horse tack commercially, just remember that you can't sell kangaroo leather in California. they got a rule 'gainst it. Edging: I've used beeswax to burnish a lot of bridle leather but for this I'm using black Tokenole because I want to try out how resilient it is as a finish. I haven't put any edge crease on this strap yet because I may line it if it proves too slippy on my shoulder, in which case it'll get a stitch line instead. But if I don't line it, it'll either get a crease or some broguing.
  5. Hi @fredk I got the kangaroo leather from Identity Leather, based in Matlock, Derbyshire. It comes in undyed or black. Fair warning, it's sold primarily for falconry goods, so the finish is less important than the strength. Best to tell them what you want it for before ordering, so they can find you the most appropriate (least blemished) skin. It is also very pricey. That messenger bag used £300 of materials. About ten times what it would have cost in Pittards heavyweight goat skin.
  6. I recently blew my allowance on some 1.5mm thick kangaroo leather. According to the hype, K-leather is 10 times as strong as cow hide. It's certainly nice to work with: supple but not stretchy (like goat or pig) and it cuts easily. I decided to make a messenger bag out of it. In total it's got 7 compartments: The main space is 35cmx25cmx7.5cm (14"x10"x3"), front and back are two full sized pockets that'll each take a 13" laptop comfortably. The front one of those pockets has a press stud closing flap that also secures two nested smaller pockets (Keeping the press stud hardware out of the laptop space) and the rear laptop pocket has its own separately press stud flapped "medication pocket" (For my diabetes meds - Best to always know where they are). Lastly, the flap has a large, zippered pocket that can be accessed without opening the main bag. The strap is bridle hide, not kangaroo, because kangaroo hides are small and a decent length cross body strap would be a patchwork of pieces. This strap is on quick release Loxx fasteners that also allow 360 degree swiveling. The strap isn't adjustable because I know the perfect length for me (from my camera bag strap), but being quick release, another strap is always an option. FYI: Stitch count is approximately 3000 @ 3mm pitch, hand sewn.
  7. Thanks Chuck. I always appreciate when people explain the design details they incorporate to overcome problems. Nice, simple sheath. No fuss, no mess and no problems. Kudos to you.
  8. AndrewWR

    Rifle case

    All Hand sewn, @PastorBob. I don't have sewing machine can't justify the cost or space as a hobbyist. If I was running a business, it'd be different but I think I still prefer the netness and quality of hand sewn leather. Which brings me to @Tequila 's question: Tequila, I don't think what I did here can be done with a machine (But I'm willing to be corrected on that). Because it's hand sewn, I punch all the holes first and each stitch pulls them into alignment close to the inner radius. I wet the middle of the edging strip with a cotton bud so the leather is more inclined to stretch around the outer radius. This stretch is only a fraction of a millimeter at a time, since the stitches are 4mm spacing. As I understand it, machine sewing doesn't allow this progressive tension so the outer radius is unstretched and the inner radius puckers under compression. This is time consuming work but I happen to think it's worth it.
  9. AndrewWR

    Rifle case

    Doc, some air rifles made in Britain are pretty powerful but anything over 12 ftlbs (6 ftlbs for air pistols) is considered a firearm here and subject to our draconian licensing laws.
  10. AndrewWR

    Rifle case

    Not Sedgwick. Metropolitan Leather supplied the bridle hide and J. Wood supplied the two shearling fleeces to line it.
  11. AndrewWR

    Rifle case

    Just finished this project: An English bridle hide case for my air rifle (Don't smirk, Americans. It's all that's legal here in Britain). The construction is 3-3.5mm thick bridle hide lined with shearling lamb skins (it took two) and edged with 1.5mm bridle hide. The handles are 2.5mm bridle hide with an 8mm leather cord core and the hardware is a 150CM heavy duty YKK zipper and 4 links of 1000KG rated marine stainless chain.
  12. Yes, HJ. My maker's mark is my initials in morse code (minus any spacing) . - . - - . - . = AWR Usually, I hide it somewhere in a non-structural seam by punching stitching holes in 3mm and 5mm spacing but on this tool bag I tried something new because there was a blemish on the nubuck I couldn't cut around so I covered it.
  13. Do you mean it's not 'manly' after all? Did I just make a handbag by mistake? :-(
  14. My neighbour laughed at me when I said I wanted to make a 'manly' tote. This is 3.5mm to 4mm thick nubuck with English Bridle hide handles cored with the leather drive belt from a (very old) lathe. Oh and it's destined to be a tool bag. Manly enough for you, Andrea? The back of the hide was treated with Tokonole to seal it and smooth it a bit. Hence the darkness. The hardware is a couple of Loxx fasteners (marine grade) rather than a zipper because things like spirit levels or steel rulers stick out the top. Dimensions: Top (closed) 47cm Base - 37cm x 13cm Height 40cm Handle drop 10cm Handle diameter (not counting seam) 14mm
  15. AndrewWR

    Camera case

    I padded and lined the front and back first, then stitched the side/bottom/side panel, then laid foam backed suede in the bottom, then the two sides got their foam and lining. The side padding holds in the bottom badding (glue too). It couldn't be stitched inside out because its bridle hide and way too stiff for that sort of construction. Turning leather of this weight and firmness inside out would crease it horribly and ruin it. Also, because the stitching goes from outside to inside, Inside out would not be any easier. This is hand stitched, like all my work. This style of construction is fiddly but it produces nice, robust seams and a relatively flat structure inside as well as outside. If you take another look at the open top photo, you'll see the rolled edge of the side panel and the folded edge of the front panel are flat against the side.
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