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Harry Marinakis

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About Harry Marinakis

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  1. I am looking for a leather with very special characteristics. - Soft as chamois -Anywhere from 5 to 9 oz. thickness -Doesn't stretch -Light cream or natural light color I was able to obtain this leather from Promise Land Tannery, but it's not available anymore. They advertised it as Latigo. Does anyone know where I can get such a leather? Many of us are looking for it, but we can't find it.
  2. Not wash-fast means the dye is water-soluble and will wash out if the leather is wetted. Not sun-fast means that the dye will fade rapidly in left in direct sunlight.
  3. Thank you Hilldale I searched on bezel but found only blanks, earrings, or pendants. Nothing that would even remotely suitable for leather. I guess I'll have to solder my own settings.
  4. Thanks but that suggestion was not useful. Anyone else have any ideas?
  5. I want to set half pearls and other costume jewelry into leather. I assume that there is a setting for half pearls and other similar jewels that have a rivet stud. But I don't even know what they're called. I've tried searching on Google, but can't find the correct search term. Can someone help? Thanks.
  6. Soak those babies in Evapo-Rust to clean them up.
  7. The usual procedure is to drill a hole in your anvil the same shape and size as the rivet head. Then place the head of the rivet into the hole and peen as usual.
  8. Absolutely nothing in any of those photos is historically accurate. Questions: How do I get the shape molded for the pectorals? I've read about wet-forming but what would use/make as a mould? You could make a foam mold, or emboss the leather The chest seems to have a split down though the center to the bottom of the pectorals, I assume this is to be able to get in and out of the armor? You're reading too much into what you see. The armor is fantasy. What you see has nothing to do with purpose or function, it's all fantasy. The design, layout, methods of attachment, etc., are all fantasy, and are not similar in any way to any type of historical armor. Do I need to put metal eyelets in at the shoulders for the lacing? Not necessary, since the suspended weight is minimal and you won't be fighting. Just be sure that you set the eyelets in the leather far enough away from the edge that they don't rip through. The sides come together and attach with clasps under the arms, It looks like it's a perfect fit but should I make it slightly overlap instead? Yes, that makes it easier to adjust and fit properly The neck has a collar that comes up, how do I make it so it attaches all around? How do I attach it? Historically the neck protection was a separate piece (in most cases), worn under the chest piece, not a collar. Again, since this is fantasy you can make it and attach it in whatever manner you want. Question: For the edges which hold down the chainmail, do I cut one set of the side pieces short so that they don't overlap? or do I overlap them? Don't understand your question
  9. I use animal (hide) glues. Initially I bought a glue pot like yours, but discovered that it's worthless. It's too big and holds too much glue. Now I just mix up what I need and heat the glue in double boiler on a hot plate. Anyone want to buy a lightly-used glue pot?
  10. Oops! Forgot to say that the iron-tannin-acid dyes are all black or grey. Vinagroon is a black dye.
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