RockyAussie

Best I can tell 2.8 point is just under 1mm and from my experience 1.2mm is a good minimum width for clear stamping but this depends on the overall stamp somewhat. Thinner at the end of lines and in some texts it can still work fine.

That is a nice looking glasses case. The edging could have been a little better but I have seen plenty a lot worse. I would not think of making it for under $60.00au which would be about 35 euro. Patterning time will often take longer than the actual job and I do use Autocad and a laser and 3D printing regularly as well. For me I would still be losing at $60.00au but the next time I would be in front.

If the part you are sewing tappers thinner toward the edge it will often want to feed out away from that edge depending on what feet you are running as well.

As @AlZilla mentioned above the needle tip shape type can give an angled stitch such as an LR which gives a saddle stitch look. A TRI point needle will give a straight stitch if that is what you want. If you are having to hold the job inward as you go you overcome this fairly well with a guide that is angled slightly closer at the back behind where the needle is. This video I ade some time back shows how you can pretty much set up a guide that does not require you to hold it at all.

Thanks you for that Jonas, I had found that as well and sent him a message but unfortunately he has not been on LW since May this year. I may try and contact Seick as you suggested and see how that goes. I would really like to know what oil grade it takes at least. I was hoping that someone from Denmark or near to there may know something but no luck as yet. Thanks again for trying. Brgds Brian

Does anybody have one of these that could advise me what grade of oil it should use?

Mine is not great compared to most of my other machines for sitting at but I use an adjustable high stool which is close to standing height. That means the knees are not a problem as they barely go in under. I have an adler post as well that is set on an angle like the picture posted by @nylonRigging but that is how I bought it set up. I would be somewhat concerned about how the oil falls down and through on the tall post to do that without checking every oil hole for proper lubrication.

This following link shows the tall post machine I have. Note that the max thread size is 138. The needle goes into the right side which is good for allowing wide products that can be held out in the open left side if that makes sense.

The foot is held in place with a tapered pin same as the FAV and Fortuna machines. The 1mm washer was needed to allow the sliding lock in thing to position better for holding and angle adjustments.

That would be my choice and is the same as mine which can do about 90% of the work I do at Wild Harry. Note that the feet available on this machine have the same as the old Singer 111W machines which covers about anything you could ever want. Also note that this is for the head only and you may want to get a table and servo motor from them as well perhaps. Do not get the U shaped table as they get in the way too much as shown in the following video which is a different machine but shows the same problem -

I believe that neither of those machines would be ideal for the work you are wanting to do. Check out this video I did awhile ago as it will point out some of the features for you to consider. I do not know what machines you have there in your world but a google search for a 246 cylinder arm machine should bring up a few to pick from. Note that they are generally not very expensive normally.

They seem not to move at all for quite a few turn which is why they normally supply a winding handle I guess. 20 turns will hardly seem much.

Yes there is. I gave up trying to use the revolving type years ago and now use a diamond tipped dressing tool. This picture is one I found on Amazon which looks a bit like mine. They work a lot better and way quicker so be careful not to go in to hard with it.

It looks like you have the bell too far forward and it is under the presser foot which will stop it from working. Also I think I see a large chip out of your blade which will need to be sharpened out. Follow through the steps in this video I made and note the distance from the presser foot to the bell edge is adjusted correctly and then again after you have sharpened the chip out.

My Vilh Pedersen 282 clicker press is not working much good and I need some pics that show off the Hydraulic system. If anybody has a manual please let me know.