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About RockyAussie

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. Depends on the size and the thickness you want to cut really. 90% of what I use I spray the card pattern or masonite or printed plastic with contact glue then let it tack off for a few hours. This stops the pattern from moving around while I push the knife along the edge. This post I did awhile back shows both where I used cardstock with a spray glued back and plastic patterns I made with a spray glued back as well -
  2. First thing I have to say I am in Australia and I have been wanting one of this type of machine for some years. I pushed pretty hard to get the Cowboys reps here to get me in this one and it did take some time. I would check if the dealers there would be happy to do the same for you first. If no good then Techsew have a similar machine you could check out. Note well that no one type machine will do everything you want and if I was starting off all over again I would still get a cylinder arm machine first but following that this would be my next investment for sure. I hope you go well with a Cowboy machine because over here at least I can say they look after their buyers and any issues they may have very well.
  3. Got me thinking...Thanks for posting @Frodo
  4. Yeah I've got a Adler 268 with a feed roller foot and about that high. Good machine but not anywhere near as useful overall. Good for shoe uppers and stuff but don't laugh....I mostly use it for stitching belts cause it goes so fast.
  5. I think you have done pretty good on most details. Only thing I can offer is that the D attachment pieces could have been used to cover the side seam join at the top line. I am sure she will treasure it anyways.
  6. Thanks mate. I only made it for the customer really so I should do a lot better when I do some more that really show its potential. What.....you want two??? I gotta admit I wish I had one years ago. Doing elbow patches and hat patches and jacket patches and so many things better than a patching machine could do. Might even have a go at them holes in my socks that seem to keep happening these days.
  7. Your needle is in the wrong way around. Turn it 180 degrees and try again. Also an size 18 can often work better with the size 40 thread.
  8. Here ya go - https://youtu.be/ncEgTJhOORs
  9. This machine would have to be one of the most versatile sewing machines for its price on the market but strangely it is rare to see it in action so here is my bit on using it for now. It does allow for many products to be more simply constructed and it has been a very simple machine to operate and use. As time allows I will try and show some more of its uses on my YouTube channel. Here it is -
  10. Does this machine not have a needle guide down under the needle plate? I believe that on most other 441 class machines that this part is where a feed dog is normally in place and what @Wizcrafts is suggesting is that you check that this part has not come loose. As for the needle/walking foot timing I have to wonder why it would be right most of the time and not other times. I would first check that the back walking foot lifts smoothly and easily without any catching This pic shows a screw that allows the roller to be tighter or looser to the guide for the back walking foot - and then also that there is no excessive slop in any of the linkages that connect to the front walking foot and needle bar assembly. Make sure that the connecting rod coming off of the cam on the end of upper shaft has not come too loose or worn out. Many many operators do not do a good enough job of lubricating those knuckles on these rods. They do have oil holes in them and most people do NOT oil them. No video or even most manuals show all of the holes that should be oiled on these machines. Simple ...if it turns/revolves it should be oiled.
  11. It is not unusual to have to change the top tension on the run. Normally you would have the tension set for doing the thicker part then as you get down to the thinner parts work out if a half a turn or more out is enough to keep the stitching centered. Usually the knots come to the top on the thin stuff so loosening is what has to happen. If the thread is too thick to center into a single layer alright then nothing will help except thinner thread. Another suggestion and just MY opinion ...on the 341 don'. t go over the little post beside the tension discs as nearly all the videos seem to show. Show me where it is done this way in the Juki manual if you like. Thinner threads will file a track in that post and cause you no end of grief when it starts to serrate the thicker threads.
  12. That it is. I have never come across any other machine that can sew that close to the edge of a product. Only problem I have with it is that the needle goes in the other direction (long slot to the right) and so does the thread. Cant think how many times out of habit I have put the thread in from the left instead of the right. Makes stitching tall totes an easy job when you get it right though. . I have done a bit of a crappy video (more crappy that my usual stuff) on a tote bag stitch which I will put up soon only because there is so little to be seen out there on these machines in use.
  13. Is that fob attached to the belt keeper? How is this so done? That to me is artistic
  14. The machine for that job is a tall post. This is a couple of pictures of one I have here. It is a Cowboy CB 8365. I have not had time to do any videos yet but I will try and get some up soon.
  15. Good Video @TomE and thanks for sharing. You may think about using a temperature controlled soldering iron as I have used for many years now. Here is a post I did showing how I made one up using a light dimmer switch Although I have used edge coat in that posting it does work well with wax coatings as well.
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