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About Hardrada

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  1. I have the original that far east knock-off is a copy of: the Schärffix. And even that one won't work for chrome tan, because of its soft temper. Don't waste your money there. Either skive by hand with a Japanese skiving knife or a half-moon knife, or save up for a bell skiver.
  2. You won't have that outside of a bell skiver, which is gonna be $$$. Any other manual-operated tool won't give you the results you want. I'm telling you because I've been there. I've skived soft-temper leather with all kinds of tools—skife like yours, Japanese knives, half-moon knife, and Schärffix—and only the Japanese knife and the half-moon knife were successful in not pulling the leather and deforming it. I was hoping that the Schärffix paring machine would be just the thing, but no, it wasn't because you still need to apply mechanical pulling force and that will pull soft-temper and medium-temper leather out of shape. It's actually high end AND affordable, however impossible that might seem. I know because I have two of them and they're among my most used tools. Well sharpened, they're unbeatable.
  3. This: https://www.goodsjapan.com/craft-sha-36mm-japanese-traditional-lethercraft-skiver-utility-leather-knife/a-19138 They also have a left-hand version.
  4. Right. All I used were quick grip, non-marring clamps. Till last week or so I didn't even know such things as vacuum pumps (well, other than the ones for freezing food) existed. I first came across them whilst watching woodworking videos wherein they were being used for gluing large pieces. Never did I think they could be used for leather work.
  5. Thanks for posting that! Most useful video of AD 2022! (So far... )
  6. Would something like this help any? https://www.goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-safety-skife-knife-flat-leather-skiver-plane/a-20561 They have planes for wood too, which might be better since they're wider: https://www.goodsjapan.com/takagi-japanese-wood-working-58mm-gisuke-hand-plane-kanna-carpenter-tool/a-19411
  7. Dry. Dry. Dry. If it's damp you'll burn it.
  8. Just apply a light coating of Tokonole to the flesh side and then go to town with the edge of the glass slicker on it: ADDENDUM: I strongly recommend placing the leather on a non-marring surface (I use a scrap of soft-temper deerskin), because you'll be applying quite a bit of pressure on it and if you lay it on the table or cutting board you might end up marking it, specially if there are any leather "crumbs" or anything else under it.
  9. There's more than one way to do it. Which method you choose depends on the final look you want and also on how strong you need the stitches to be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQK8R0oYT8o
  10. On the billet, the shaded part is the shape added to the rectangle to make the shape of the point. Yeah, that part for which I no longer have the calculations I made to determine its dimensions. On the buckle end of the pattern, the shaded areas are just cutouts on the cardstock pattern where the branding stamps will go.
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