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About Hardrada
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Leatherworker
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Western Canada
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Thanks, mates. The bone folder and a recreasing did the trick.
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As you can see, if I were to trim the end would be pretty much next to the hole—it'd probably look worse than the blemish: In non-raking light, it's not too obvious, but it's still there:
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Hardrada started following A wee wallet, Smoothing out a creaser line?, Belts, Pouches, Sheaths, Cases. Lots of stuff. and and 6 others
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I went askew with the electric creaser when creasing a belt and was hoping the final length would be short of that blemish, but alas, it was within an inch of the tip. Is there a way to smooth out that blemish or make it disappear? I'd really not want to cut the billet any shorter. Thanks in advance for any helpful input.
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Belts, Pouches, Sheaths, Cases. Lots of stuff.
Hardrada replied to AlexOstacchini's topic in Show Off!!
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These are used on wood, but it's still steel and it's still round, so, it may help:
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Applying "Lining" over Round, Bulgy Surfaces
Hardrada replied to Hardrada's topic in How Do I Do That?
Yes, I know pics help—was gonna post some last night when I made the post only to find out my camera's battery was drained. Here's the issue: This is the molded spectacle case. I decided to mold "in reverse" as I wanted to avoid dying and also to have the outer surface be chevre which is more scratch resistant: And, this is what happens when I try to put the 1.5oz chevre over the molded leather: Those pleats... argh! -
Ahoi, Is there an ideal way to apply a cover of thin chevre leather over a wet moulded pouch? I'm particularly interested in how to deal with the pleats that form whenever I attempt to stretch the chevre over the bulgy round end. I guess I could cut the leather, but then I wouldn't have a smooth finish and it'd look real terrible. Any ideas or should I start over, maybe this time gluing the chevre over the veg tan first? TIA
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fiebing's edge dye opinion needed
Hardrada replied to TonyGreen3455's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Don't use spirits-based dye: as it says, it is PENETRATING and it'll run off your edge into the adjacent portions of the leather, ruining the project. Edge dyes (i.e. Fiebing's Edge Kote) are polymer-based dyes that will coalesce on the edge and remain there till wear and tear removes them or you sand/rub them off. -
Neat work! I've always wondered how is it possible that knives with hooks like that skinner don't get caugh in the sheath when pulled out. Obviously, they don't. Amazing.
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For thick layers a solution is to cut a strip of leather 1/2" wider than the total thickness and stitch it in as edge cover.
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Folded edge and stitch.
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https://www.outpostworkshop.co.uk/
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Looks pretty cool. As a comment, keep in mind that small goods, by requiring careful attention to detail and being less tolerant of error, give you the base on which to solidly build excellent craftsmanship with large items. Good with the little things, good then with the big things, as was wisely said by Someone. Neat use of the lightbox in those last two images. Most people just blast the item with light from all sides and it looks terrible. I see you're using light ratios and raking the light to bring up texture. Good show.
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@jcwoman: check out Tandy's Crafttool punches. They have sizes all the way down to 1/64" and even "needle" punches. They might not be KS Blade top notch quality, but they're still good quality. They don't clog and clean themselves out automatically. That's all I use, along with a template to: first mark the holes by pressing the punch with my hand as it sits in the template's hole over the strap, and then removing the template and lining up the punch over the mark made previously and whack it with a poly mallet. Oval punches can be tricky, but round ones are a zinch with this method and tools.