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About Hardrada

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  1. Hardrada

    Edge Paint Applicators

    Thanks for the reference. I'll keep an eye out for them next time I'm there; should be better than the crafts felt you get at Waldo-Mart.
  2. Hardrada

    Edge Paint Applicators

    How thin are those edges, Artourious? I've been tempted to buy those dense spongey bits at Superstore's make-up aisle. Maybe they'll work better than other applicators? I've not had much luck with felt (it sheds lint) or the small wool daubers: the paint smears beyond the edges onto the project's surface and it can be a pain to clean it off. Best resuts I've gotten have been with an awl, really. Tedious, I know, but less messy. ADDENDUM: You know, I've also gotten good results with a paddle: https://tandyleather.ca/collections/supplies/products/craftool-stainless-steel-edge-paddle I mostly use the rough side of that paddle.
  3. Hardrada

    French Edge Skiver - is this going to be a problem?

    Eventually you'll have to sharpen it, and then you can fix that issue with your stone.
  4. Hardrada

    Are expensive whet stones worth it?

    It can be frustrating, specially with round blades. A necessary hassle, though; and with the right tools/stones, it can even be enjoyable.
  5. Hardrada

    Is it possible to mould chrome-tanned leather?

    Can latigo be wet moulded?
  6. Hardrada

    Stitching spacing

    Seiwa: the convergence of economy and quality: https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-6x4mm/a-19162
  7. Hardrada

    Alcohol burner

    Well, it was the one from Tandy, so I guess that sums it up. I used to use a Bic lighter but I had to wipe the soot off with a heavy cloth before applying it to the leather. Quite a pain, which is why I got the spirit lamp, which I also use to heat up my brass stamps now (I used to use an iron upside down and place the stamps on it for ~40 seconds). I ordered another Tandy creaser and still use the spirit lamp, but I'm extra careful now that it only stays no more than 15 seconds under the flame (that one time I left it there for close to a minute or more: can't remember—all I remember is that I heard dripping and when I looked I saw big drops of melted steel dripping onto the lamp).
  8. Hardrada

    Alcohol burner

    Probably a heat gun is the answer. With a spirit lamp you can get the creaser so hot that it will melt.
  9. Hardrada

    Really confused about glue

    Happens on all leathers. I'm puzzled like heck as well. I watched Renia's demo video and got a 4 oz bottle from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Well, it doesn't behave like anything in the video, even though I apply it like they do in there. No permanent bond at all. Either I got a dud or, and I strongly suspect this might be the cause, it was frozen in transit and ruined. It works OK as a temporary glue to hold pieces together whilst punching holes/stitching, but not for permanent bonds. Maybe I should reorder some during the summer and try again.
  10. Hardrada

    Really confused about glue

    I'd rather use contact cement. Haven't had good luck with water-based glue (Aquilim 315): over time it dries and the 'glued' parts come apart. In France it wouldn't be difficult to buy some Renia Colle de Cologne: very good contact cement and you can use it to glue more than just leather: think about fabric for linings or plastic pieces. I've seen some leatherworkers use Hirschkleber. Always wanted to try that one, but haven't had a chance to get ahold of some.
  11. FatCat beat me to it. You need to pull at an angle, yes. Roughly the same angle as your holes' slant, actually. Also, get your pony perpendicular to the floor (a wee bit of a slant is OK, but not more than ~15°). Once you've developed your angled pulling into muscle memory you can change the angle on the pony and your brain will adjust your arms automatically to maintain the pulling angle with respect to the leather; but for now, do yourself a favour and set it perpendicular, mate.
  12. I hear you. I've done commercial photo work too. I always tried to make business owners understand that specially now in the age of the Internet, when customers who buy online cannot physically handle an item it is all the more paramount to convey as many of the item's properties (texture, dimensions, &c., &c.) visually, which requires proper lighting and styling. But no, they always think that all it takes is an elcheapo lightbox off Amazon and an iPhone and can thus 'do it in house', don't they?
  13. Then, there are some resellers of Blanchard with pics like these: https://craftntools.com/vergez-blanchard/pricking-irons/pricking-iron-size-9
  14. Bcraig, the bit about "all STITCHING chisels" being diamond-shaped is wrong. Some chisels are European style and their holes are not diamonds but slits like these: \ \ \ \ \. I just got me a pair of those from KS Blade. They are NOT cheap, though. (https://ksbladepunch.com/product/pricking-irons-black)** Seiwa makes an economical version of the European style chisels, which you can get from Goodsjapan.com; I wasn't impressed with the reviews I watched of them, though. I've no problem swearing by the Seiwa diamond-shaped, but their European style just didn't rock my boat. Part of the confusion with these items comes from diluting the definitions/boundaries of two different items that are used for stitching: i.e. PRICKING IRONS vs. stitching CHISELS. The exhibit Spyros posted above from Blanchard is a European style PRICKING IRON, whereas the one in the picture below is a Seiwa diamond CHISEL. Note that even Goodsjapan.com is labeling the latter as a 'pricking iron' (AND as a chisel ). See? Even suppliers do it, adding to the confusion. So, what's the difference then? A pricking iron is designed to MARK where the stitching holes on the leather will go. The holes are actually made by piercing the leather with a stitching awl, whose blade is usually diamond-shaped. Pricking irons are NOT designed nor meant to pierce (punch) through the leather and make the holes –although I reckon it's possible to use them as punches if you strike them hard enough with a mallet and your leather is not too thick. A stitching punch, on the other hand is designed to not just mark where the stitching holes will go but to make them as well. They are punches—built strong enough to pierce through thick layers of leather without breaking. So, you no longer need an awl to stitch. Chisels are now preferred by many leather workers because it speeds up the process and neats up the stitching. As mentioned above, you can have chisels in both diamond and European style. They even make round ones (https://ksbladepunch.com/product/round-dent-black), and, yes, for lacing too. Lacing punches, however, are not angled, but horizontally oriented, like so: – – – –. In your specific case, I would recommend the Seiwa diamond chisels: https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-6x4mm/a-19162 I linked you to the 4 mm version, but they have them in other stitching measurements, such as 3 mm. It all depends on what you're making. See here: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm#stitching _____________________________ **Again, you have a manufacturer adding to the confusion by labeling a punch a 'pricking iron'.
  15. Goodsjapan. Goodsjapan. Goodsjapan. I've got their 4 mm diamond Seiwa chisels. If you can have it cheap and good, these are it.