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Got some dog collar types with fold over tines somewhere but can't find the damn things.

Is the wheel part of the press? If so what does it do?

Looks good. That watch needed a nice strap.

I would imagine magnets strong enough to hold your work would be hard to get apart for a start. also needs to be smooth so won't mark your work. Might be able to do something for a watch strap but think half a handbag.

Looks like a good job well done. Thought about stuff like this many times but no space and can't get anywhere near the outside so I'll stick with my mini one for light engraving.

Sorry Folker, have searched all of marketplace for it and can't find it but found some other goodies for you. I'd look at the "29" myself if I had some space. (2) Marketplace – Singer Sewing machine 29K58 | Facebook (2) Marketplace – SINGER 45K/89 HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER ARM INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE. | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Pfaff post bed industrial sewing machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer 29K3 patcher sewing machine with pedal stand WORKING | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer sowing machine stool base | Facebook

And that pic shows the problem exactly. The disparity between the main and the bottom stitches. Good job on the bottle.

Nice idea on the form but getting back to the video, surely if you don't mark the main body then with it upside down you use a straightedge from the bottom center, through the bottom hole you can just mark the outside hole on the main body as per your drawing, no?

Not really germane to this problem but my cup is cone shaped which brought up a whole nother set of shapes which I hadn't thought of. I think everyone who calls themselves a leather crafter should make a conical leather cup/mug/jug. I do think that provided you get both sets of holes lined up, it's easier to run an awl through both punched holes on the 45. Wouldn't be watertight of course but not needed in my case.

OK here is what I was trying to do in the first place. As I've said, I don't think skipping stitches is the proper way to go even if this guy get's away with it. Another consideration is whether you're going with hole punches, chisels or awls. I got into trouble because I used punches which can be problematical unless you happen to have the corresponding set of punches with the wider spacing for the bigger circumference so unlikely to be the way to go especially if you want the 45 degree holes. I did see something a long while back where someone (might have been Leodis?) where he made a wooden 45 degree gadget so you could chamfer the edges and use punches but I digress, anyway, I'm loving this conversation and I'm trying to keep up even though my hair stands on end when I see a scientific calculator but I love that every day is a school day. TWO New Stitches to Elevate your Leathercraft! (youtube.com)

I didn't give any thought to it initially. just punched the body and the bottom with the same punch and started thinking about it near the end when I had this bubble that I knew wasn't gonna go away. Chucks drawing is an easy way to see it. I still don't know if it would be better to lose a stitch or use a wider spacing for the bigger circumference.

Well done Frodo. That's similar to how I do some bags.

Well done Chuck. That'll do it.

Works fine on 3mm firm veg tan. Not so much on 2mm soft chrome. This is just a holder. Doesn't have to be watertight. I could just put a cross on the bottom. It's the principle I'm after.

Still working on my tea cup koosie/kuzie and I've run into a problem. If you use the same punch/chisel for the main body and the bottom piece you are going to run into trouble because the main body has a bigger diameter/circumference than the bottom piece so if you don't allow for it by the time you run out of stitch holes in the bottom piece you still have some left on the main piece and a big bulge as well. Now being a bit mathematically challenged I turned to YouTube. I could only find one vid that advocates sort of dropping stitches when the holes are no longer opposite each other and I think I remember Armitage saying the same thing years ago. This doesn't work because when you start out the holes ARE opposite each other and the problem doesn't arise until it's too late to do anything about it. I know the answer is somewhere in the PCD math (Pitch Circle Diameter) but I don't have the noodles to be able to work it out. BUT there are not many problems that Paulie can't work out eventually and I've come up with a cunning plan. I know the answer is to have the same amount of holes in both pieces which means the holes in the bigger piece have to be farther apart so todays plan is to use the sewing machine. I'm gonna draw the bigger circle and because I already know how many holes there are in the bottom piece I'm gonna change the stitch length on the machine until I have the same amount of holes. If there's someone out there who knows how to work this out using to math please let me know.