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toxo

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About toxo

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Location
    Kent, UK
  • Interests
    leathercraft, hunting, fishing, boating, people

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  • Interested in learning about
    different techniques
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  1. @DJole Glad the turn worked out for you. @RockyAussie Is that top piece skived and turned Brian or did you sew inside out and turn before top stitching?
  2. One of the most comprehensive guides I've come across. https://anglosewing.co.uk/downloads/gb1.pdf
  3. Not usually a hat wearer but always have one near for when it's raining and you need to go in the garden or out to the car. I made the Indiana Jones hat but would never wear it. Had this Australian style for years but it takes 5 mins to get it into shape for wearing. I had some 3mm soft chrome tan so I made this. I can abuse it as much as I like and it just springs back into shape. Love it.
  4. I love my 69, especially now I've got it doing one stitch at a time but I don't think it's as precise as it could be. I know it's probably my technique but I'm not sure how much the back and forth feed dog is a factor. If I were to trade up, what would I be looking at for light to medium leather?
  5. You asked, I answered. I don't see any rivets.
  6. One idea is to cut two slots where the "D" rings are. Run the strap under, up through the slot, through the "D" ring , back through the slot and on to the next "D"ring. The strap isn't seen and maybe uses less leather. Stitching across a strap will weaken it. Maybe a nice rivet either side of the rings? A lot depends on how strong it needs to be.
  7. Thanks guys, an interesting idea and I like it. It would certainly be easier to sew. Thing is I was thinking of something he would wear to school for years. Don't think you could make him go to school with a dino on his back at 9/10. Of course I suppose I could make two. I do like the idea of scaling it up. His mum sent a short video yesterday of him opening the parcel and another this morning showing him waking up with it in the bed. He'd slept with it. I wanted to show you guys the video but although very short it's over 3mb and I don't know how to shorten it. Uploaded it to YT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Myn2KsoVwAQ
  8. Doesn't mean you have to give it to em. Those bags are better than bargain basement.
  9. Just throwing ideas at you. Having stiff sides may negate the need for foam on the front. Maybe VT or some other stiffener glued to the CT gusset on the inside. As for skiving, you need a really sharp blade. Maybe glue on the CT top to harden it before skiving. Maybe glue the foam to the top of the CT before skiving both. Find out what works for you. No one will be as critical as you.
  10. I'm just a hobbyist also but I'm gonna make an effort this year to get back some of the dosh I've laid out. You're doing really well so far and you're right to ask the questions and learn from other peoples experience but only practice and trial and error will get you where you need to be. So. To keep the cost and labour down, you could just try veg tan for the gussets. That will hold up the sides and the flap should stop the sides from coming in. The top of the front panel shouldn't need too much stiffening (maybe none) and so shouldn't be too bulky. I'd mention skiving the top but it's not that easy on soft leather and it's time consuming. I would try 1.8mm/2mm VT, when stitched it's quite strong but you'll have to try it for yourself. You can ask your leather shop for some samples of different thicknesses but spend a little money on decent sized samples that you can sew else they'll send credit card sizes and if you're gonna dye it you can use the economy grades.
  11. Veg tan has lots of advantages over chrome tan. The thickness will depend on the size of the bag but even lightweight VT is a joy to work with compared to CT for many (not all) bag designs. The problem you had in your first post goes away with VT. firstly it doesn't need to be so thick and VT is much easier to skive than CT even by hand after some practice so you can have a turned top edge that's the same thickness as the rest of the panel and so allows a lining to be trapped and sewed between without being too bulky. The stitching when using a gussetwill stand up really well with even thin VT. This first pic was around 2mm, the second pic started life as a soft gym bag at around 1.2mm CT but I realised that the size of the bag needed more so I lined it with 1.6mm VT and now it's more like a stylish suitcase. You have to try these things
  12. I've read a few posts about folk struggling with sewing and a thought came to me, (didn't hurt that much). Like a lot of people I've done a few patterns that use holes instead of slits for sewing. I don't want to get into the purity of it. I just want to point out to some that may not have tried it that it's much easier to get two needles through a 1.5mm hole than a tight slit. It's quite tedious to get all the holes done with a single punch. There are multi punches of course but getting the right spacing as per the pattern may not be that easy although the spacing can be adjusted at the end in the same way as you would with a stitching chisel. Even with such a tool it's still a chore for arthritic hands. Then I thought, what if there was a hole instead of a needle in the sewing machine? That could be a game changer for dodgy hands. Then I happened to be watching the maestro Cechaflo sewing a steering wheel and guess what he used for the stitching? If you don't want to watch the whole thing, get to 1.04 but it's only there for a second so look sharp. Now I'm thinking how do I fettle something like this for my Adler.
  13. Nice work and I like the design although the open holes at the sides always make me determined to do something about that next time. Have you considered veg tan for the gusset? I see your gusset goes all the way around. A veg tan gusset would hold it up and enable a thinner front and back panel which would enable you to trap the lining between the turnover without it being bulky. Can't see the clasp well but does it just hold the flap down? If it does you might consider one that locks it in place which would help in it standing up.
  14. What is it that you're making that needs such a thickness of material? And is the lining designed to come out or not? I assume you want the stiffness so it stands up? Are you trying to not sew through the turnover at the top?
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