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About billybopp

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    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. Yup! That is a really nice workspace, but it's far too neat and clean! I suspect you cleaned it up to show us. - Bill
  2. Some dyes will do that. Pigment floats to the surface as it dries and needs to be rubbed off. I was not aware that black dye would do that! But now I know. Thanks. It does make sense, though. The reason it looked red is that there really are no true blacks in inks and dyes other then squid ink. Everything else is a very dark version of other colors, usually red, blue or green. I helped a friend of the family do a science fair project when he was in high school in which he tool different brands of ballpoint pens, made a mark on some blotter paper and diluted it with alcohol which then spread it out on the blotter paper so that you could see what the true color was! He won the science fair. - Bill
  3. In normal times, it is prudent to wait for beer o'clock .. .and it's always beer o'clock somewhere. But in 2020, it's pretty much beer o'clock everywhere all the time! And thanks for posting the pics and info! I love seeing folks make their own tools!! - Bill
  4. billybopp

    Awl blade?

    Just a note to add to what @zuludog said. If you are not comfortable with sharpening an awl blade, Leatherwranglers offers sharpened Osborne blades (for additional $, of course)! https://leatherwranglers.com/shop/ols/products/awl-blades - Bill
  5. One alternative to brushing on dye is to airbrush. In your case, however, I'd dye first by dipping, or whatever you want to use and then paint over the dye! Acrylic leather paint will generally work just fine over dye. - Bill
  6. I believe I would consider contacting the folks at Colonial Williamsburg. They specialize in that era, have leatherworking apprenticeship programs, and are noted for their research on the era. It's a good bet that if you can get in contact with their research folks there they will be happy to provide any information that they can for you. I do not know if your setting is more frontier or more East Coast city. They type of leather work would likely be a bit different for each, but again it's worth a try to contact them. https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/ -Bill
  7. Exactly! Pro dye colors are "synthetic", and often petrol based (hence Fiebings old name for these of Oil Dye) - Think Prussian Blue, for example. As @Mattsbaggersays, there tends to be less rub-off with pro dye, and in most cases the colors are more vibrant. - Bill
  8. Looks great! I love the simple yet elegant look. I have tried something similar in the past, but just as an experiment really. I used a geometric craftaid from Tandy, which gives a similar effect, but hard to NOT get lines where you don't want them with it. If you could figure out how to do that, it would make quick work of such a pattern. https://tandyleather.com/collections/books-patterns/products/geometric-stampinggrid-craftaid-14-38-12 - Bill
  9. Powered skivers are fairly pricey, but pull skivers are more affordable, but limited to 3-4" width. That should be plenty for all but the biggest sheaths. We're still talking about a couple hundred $, but far less than the thousand $ for a power skiver. You can also skive by hand using a safety skiver, but that takes a lot of skill and practice. - Bill
  10. After spraying dye, I run some isopropyl alcohol through my airbrushes. If I won't be using it again, it gets disassembled and cleaned in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner that I had lying around. - Bill
  11. Nice find! That likely means it's been in your family for a long time! As @deetralala says, electrolysis is a good way to remove rust. There is a commercial product called Evaporust that works well too. For the brass parts, I'd give them a good clean to remove any dirt and then I'd try Tarn-X to shine them up. Brasso and such are mild abrasives, Tarn-x works chemically and should remove far less metal! Almost certainly somebody here will recognize that logo. I think I remember somebody identifying one like it a couple of years ago, but I'm not that good! - Bill
  12. I've been using @Dwight's recipe for some time now, and love it. If I want it a little softer, I put in a little more NFO, and if I want it a little firmer I put in a little more wax. I also add just a few drops of Eucalyptus or Tea Tree Oil just for the scent. Most of the time, I pour it into foil cupcake cups to let it cool into a cake. Other times, I pour into "lipstick" containers that I got from eBay, and give a tube away with the things I make. - Bill
  13. It all depends on the look you're going for, and the effort you want to put into it. For something smaller like a wallet where all the stitching is readily visible it makes sense. Smaller projects generally have less stitching to worry about as well. Something really big would likely be overkill. With thousands of stitches, it could potentially lead to a little trip to a hospital in a straight jacket, or to a doctor's office for carpal tunnel syndrome. LOL! And yeah, to be sure the leather you are using is a big factor too. - Bill
  14. It is not a traditional technique, but this method does work, and can make front and back stitches look more similar than punching through at a single go. However, you need to make the holes separately before assembly and consequently you need to use extreme care to be sure that the holes in both pieces will line up when assembled. It's not easy! The traditional way is to assemble and usually glue your pieces together and then make your holes after all at one go. The upside of going that way is that it is generally easier and the downside is that stitches often look very different front and back (usually with the back looking much straighter, front much more slanted). - Bill
  15. In nigel armitages video he demonstrates with these irons and punches all the way through. He does indeed. But there are some caveats there. Pricking iron teeth are "V" shaped. As a consequence of that, the hole that they make will also be considerably wider on one side than the other. If the leather is quite thin it's not of much consequence, but with thicker leather it can just be too much. They ARE designed to be used with an awl, but again, with thin leather it does not matter so much. Stitching chisel teeth have a sharp point, but the body of the teeth are more straight sided, making them ideally suited for making holes without an awl. For that matter, if you want or need to use an awl with a stitching chisel (sometimes necessary due to accessibility in one place or another) you can. You might want to do that when, for example, you've used chisels for most of a project, but need to sew a pocket into a bag that could not be done before the bag was mostly put together. You would want the stitching spacing to be EXACTLY the same as the other seams. Mark it in advance with the chisel, then use an awl to actually make the holes you need. - Bill
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