chuck123wapati

wiggle your needles in the hole up and down side to side, this will stretch the holes or awl cuts enough to easily pull thru. then they will close back up tight like they are supposed to be. Two needles or one doesnt matter.

is it hi how are ya or how high are ya?

yes it did ,The Art of Making Leather cases vol 2.

hey my friend, you can stop by once in while and say hi!!

you may have to skive around the holes so the edges around the marble are thinner and can form around it.

make and put it in the center of a round handle, punch three holes slightly smaller than the marble ( top and sides) so the marble can be seen and you can stitch the bottom side closed

i would look closely at the air brush also, can you set the air pressure on that thing or can you even tell if it has pressure? Your paint should be the viscosity of milk like the others say.

those are just fine.

you have enough to sharpen them just fine. now you need. thread, glue, dyes, rivets. snaps or buckles, beeswax, oils, a ruler or straight edge, strap cutter, stitching pony or clam, a hammer or mallet some hole punches would be nice too. these are for general leather crafting, specialty work like shoe making or saddle making takes various specialized tools as well. I'm sure I've missed a few necessities as well.

it depends on what you want your edges to look like. Full round, partial round, square etc.

try a buckle. they work great on watches.

i dress my edges up with a belt sander.

i think its to keep the copper from turning the leather green.

cut a piece of cardstock what ever width you want then simply use it to draw or scribe your diamonds or squares at any angle you wish. you can draw then on the pattern or scribe them directly on the leather. takes no math if you don't want or you can use a protractor to get a precise angle.

here is a link to the rest of the info you have provided us previously. thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge.