Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tastech

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Canberra, Australia
  • Interests
    Shoe making , everything leather ,singer sewing machines , shoe making machines , shoe making tools ,classic menswear and peachy bum women

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Men"s shoe making and repairs
  • Interested in learning about
    Tools , machines and techniques
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    It found me

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. looks like a job for a curved shoe makers awl and 2.5 inch curved needle . I would use veg tan leather wet molded over where you want to put it trim it down to size . Pre awl the patch. Place it back on the saddle with some glue (temporary ) awl the saddle using the same holes as the patch using the patch as a template . very loosley stitch the patch About 2-3 inches loose .Once you have gone around once . you can pull the stitching tight and conceal most of it . I use a similar technique of loose stitch when making or repairing soccer and footballs . I saw a greek cobbler making soccer ball 40 years ago . and after inserting the bladder he loose stitch the last panel in . I am not sure if thats the way they are made around the world but it worked for him and has worked for me . Another method is to wet mold veg tan leather over the area as well as you can and then use cobblers nails . You can even hide the nails by using the blind stitch trick where the edges if leather is sliced about 1/2 inch deep through the side folded back , nailed then glued back over . I am a shoe maker so i think like a shoe maker . I am sure a saddler would have his method . I am actually interested in how a saddler would tackle it . I will keep watching this thread and see what evolves .
  2. @SUP . Try getting the handles off the way i described . Iron in a vice and pull while jiggling the handle . The come off surprisingly easy . This is because over the years the have been heated and cooled and the only thing holding them in is old dried wax and some charcoal soot . As FredK said lemon juice will work slowly ,so will vinegar with a table spoon of baking soda . Even coca cola which contains phosphoric acid . Or get some rust converter from the hardware or auto shop and soak them in that . You don't need to buy a big bottle and you will find a use for what you don't use . While you are there grab some small wire brushes . they come in a 3 pack of nylon , stainless steel and brass for about 2-3 dollars . I often get asked where do i find these tools. My reply is " i don't find them .they find me " . I am sure everyone on this forum experienced this . I can be out looking to buy a cake and come back with some obscure tool that i found in a place that was totally unexpected. Before Xmas i was in a country town looking to buy some local honey and handmade soap for my wife . I came home with a Vihl Pederson 308 sole stitcher . for $100 , they go for 2 grand. Some times customers just drop off random things to me because their grandfather was a cobbler and they have had this tool in their shed for 50 years and had no idea what it was but want to give it a good home . In fact a random customer came into the shop yesterday and asked would i be interested in 2 singer industrial sewing machines . Free to a good home . He needs the space in his shed . Yeah why not . Despite what media tries to make you think .The world is a fascinating place . People can be extraordinarily kind and willing to share their time and knowledge to complete strangers for no reward . You have to be in the state on mind to give and to receive. That's what i love about this forum . Ask a question or need some help ,some one is willing to do so . when you are finished doing what you are going to do , Post the photo of the finished product so we can all enjoy the fruits of your labour.
  3. @ Sup , I do what i do because i have the means to do and i enjoy the process and i like the finished product. If you don't have the tools and equipment to do it them just clean them up and oil the steel so they don't deteriorate and just admire them for their former past glory and place in the history of shoe making . Understand someone has spent countless hours with those tools in their hand and i believe that imparts a part of their soul in them . Don't paint the irons . Do a search on ebay for antique cobblers tools and you will see a lot come up. Some in very crappy condition and many in my view over priced . But they are collectible and sought after but no one really uses them any more . I have once to make a pair of shoes for myself using completely traditional methods and i enjoyed it . But with no reference on how to use them properly i am sure i got a lot of things wrong . But i just love old cobblers tools and try to save them when i can . The walls in my shop are full of old tools that i have collected and don't use but i just love having them around watching over me like angels . My customers are fascinated with them . I have only every had one guy come in who knew what everything was and its purpose . He was a 90 year old Hungarian guy . He told that he felt like he was amongst old friends when he saw them and spent about 2 hours studying every tool . I really get where he was coming from because i feel the same . Enjoy your tolls SUP and when you are ready pass them on to someone who is worthy .
  4. That thread tension bracket looks like it was bent by using someones teeth or put in a vise and beaten over with a hammer . I wonder what they could do with 200 bucks or even 3 . Still cheap . The mechanical concept reminds me of an old werthiemer. I am not very familiar with either but they have some things in common. This old werthhiemer was going for $1200 And i passed it up because the seller would not budge $1 . I so out of spite i knocked it back . In hindsight it is a beautiful machine and worthy of a full restoration .
  5. @ stampingdelight .Its called phosphoric acid. I noticed that most hardware store rust converters contain a high percentage of phosphoric acid. I had some laying around that i used for cleaning tile grout after tiling my bathroom and thought what can it hurt trying . It worked really well so now its all i use . Its much cheaper than rust converter . About $40 a gallon in Australia . I get it from a cleaning supplies wholesaler around the corner . They supply cleaning chemicals and product to commercial cleaners and detergents and stuff like that to restaurants . I used to be a stainless steel fabricator and noticed that phosphoric acid was in some of the weld cleaners i used . Its is also contained in stainless steel passivators which removes any iron on a freshly polished piece of stainless so it doesn't rust in a marine environment . One very important thing to be aware of is . Always wear gloves , simple nitrile gloves work fine and always protect your eyes . Phosphoric acid can absorb into your skin where it accumulates in your bones and makes them brittle . Like osteoporosis on steroids. So the safety sheets say . Use with caution .
  6. Just wondering . Do these machines perform as crappy as they look ? Man where is the workmanship in those machines . Looks like it was made by a one armed and one eyed grandmother with an irritable bowel living in a dumpster .
  7. I forgot to mention , I use acid to remove rust and any other crap that is on them . Below are some photos of what each step looks like . the first is a rusted hammer head . the second is the hammer head out of the acid and finished with a wire wheel on a bench grinder . The third is the hammer after it has been ground back , linished and mechanically polished . The grinding and polishing takes about 1.5 hours . Heel irons take about 20 mins Also a i found some picks of my last batch of irons i got . First one as i got them , second cleaned and linished irons and stripped and ready for painting handles . the finnished product are in my previous photos .
  8. I was wondering what sort of tools your were talking about . So its heel and welt irons i see . The black on the metal is wax . Easy to get off with thinners , paint stripper or white spirit . But to by pass all that give them a once over with a wire wheel on a bench grinder . I am a shoe maker and i collect shoe irons . I don't use them much but i just like them. I also like them to look nice and shiny . There are thousands of them in the universe with patina but that,s not my thing . Shiny is . I have perfected my method to suit me . First put the iron end in a vice with not marking jaws and with a twisty pulling motion remove the iron from handle . I put the irons in a solution of phosphoric acid about 10 parts water to 1 acid . ( available from an cleaners wholesaler ) while the acid does its work .( about 2 hours ) strip the handles The way i do this is with a stanley knife . The knife is held just of 90 Deg and pull the blade towards you . Sort of like peeling a potato . rotate sightly after each pass and everything comes off easy . I then lightly sand with 240 grit . Some of the original patina remains but that is ok . When the irons are ready take them out of the acid using gloves and wash with water and soap using a course scourer . this will take the blackness off and prepare the surface for polishing . You will notice the irons oxidize very quickly so you have to work them the same day . You can either wire wheel them and leave them at that or go the full mirror polish . To mirror polish require some equipment and only very little skill . If you want to know how to do the mirror polish let me know . Because that can be fiddly often just linish them . I do the same to my cobbler hammer collection Keep in mind the irons are just that irons . They were heated over a spirit burner and used to melt wax into the heels and edges of shoes . They were never painted and never should be . To seal the surface i use Penetrol which i wipe on with a rag . It stops rust and dries clear . On the handles i give them 2 coats of a satin clear coat .
  9. For sewing shoe and boot uppers a post bed machine is the way to go T70 thread is standard but T90 might be at the machines limit . Alternatively A singer patcher 29K 71 will do the job and more However the stitching will not always be strait unless you are very careful. And depending on what leather you use the walking foot may leave an imprint . If you are making boots for yourself and not for sale then a few imperfections add character. It takes years to learn to make flawless shoes and even the best machine in inexperienced hands is really a waste . But even a crappy machine can do a presentable job in the right hands . Sewing uppers is only a small portion of the overall task of making boots and shoes . Because it is done in the early stages of construction if you stuff it up all is not lost . You go back and start again . A singer 29K is a versatile machine and will always be in your arsenal no matter which direction you take . Your next machines will be more specific to do a particular task A flat bed machine is not for shoe uppers . You can do some parts but not others . Cylinder arms can work well but Roller foot post bed is best . Speed is critical the slower the better . Thats where a treadle 29K is a magic machine. Goes as slow as you like and can sew in any direction . Its more of a donkey than a thoroughbred Buts it is a handsome donkey . In conclusion try and get a singer 29k71 . Parts are still available and there are plenty around so they wont break the bank . Avoid models with numbers less than 71 because parts are unavailable . Alternatives are Adler and Claes.
  10. With the stand you can do anything you like that you think looks good . Your frame is not the original pattern that was made when the machine was made . There are 3 versions, the one you have is the second generation which came out in the 1920's it is also the most common and in my view the best looking pattern . I will send you some photos of all 3 variations of my restored machines to give you a look at the differences . I think i have posted a few on this site somewhere before . I just got a new phone with a better camera so i will post some more on this thread using better lighting . I restore 29k's to suit my aesthetics black is not my preferred color . The way i see it is there are thousands of black originals in various conditions in the world but not many like mine . They are fun to work on ,simple yet functional and not at all hard to use . Although some parts look identical from different variations of the machine they are not . When sourcing replacement parts always make sure part numbers are identical .The part numbers are stamped on the parts. But most of all be patient , very patient . I waited 10 years to find replacement gears for a 29K53 , then found 2 complete gear boxes in the same month . Go figure .
  11. And then there are these . 8mm , assorted finishes and dirt cheap https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005561736842.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.5aac3oGZ3oGZTi&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.327270.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!3.55!2.02!!!2.25!1.28!%402103011017134353955501997ee7cd!12000033551098195!rec!AU!3945930413!&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202404180316355972629836174016563233_0
  12. Hey steve , have a look at these . A little closer to home as well . https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/Y1279_dash_00/Leather-Staple-SS-pkt-100/pd.php
  13. A few years ago i did a repair on a similar machine . I used a handle from an old meat grinder ( meat mincer) . I had to drill it to size and drill and tap a grub screw to lock it to the shaft. Over all it was quite easy . If i see an old meat grinder at a yard sale going for next to nothing i buy it just so i have a few handles as spare parts . Note , most meat grinders have a square hole in the handle so take a measurement of your shaft and make sure the round hole you have to drill is compatible. Also take a measurement of the overall length of the original handle and find one that is close .
  14. Made in 1947. The first 2 numbers are the year of manufacture . If the serial number starts with the letters RF it means the machine has been refurbished .
  15. FDC, I have a Landis K . Not as sexy as the 12 . I have to change the color of the threads from white to black and to brown regularly . I dread doing so . I have decided to buy another identical machine set up with a different color thread . The reason i want the same machine is simply for reference mainly . I want to Clean , restore and paint my original machine but it takes time . What i fear is that from the time i pull it all apart and put it back together i forget where and how things go . Its always the case That you forget to take the photo of a crucial placement and you have to work it out . With a second machine close to it i can always use it as a reference . The problems with these machines is that nobody really knows how to repair and service them anymore and the people that own them just don't know how to look after them . I remember about 40 years ago the people that owned and operated them were very possessive and temperamental about their machine . You would get abused if you stood to close to them and shanked if you ever touched them . LOL These days we call them the angry machine . You say a prayer and make sacrifice each time before you use them because one day they sew like a champion and the next it will chew you up and spit you out . It can be quite soul destroying . Ask any one who has one and they will either roll their eyes or you will notice an expression of shell shock on their face . No one who has ever operated one knows the feeling . One thing i have found with mine is that because i use waxed thread i don't have to heat up the pot . If i do everything goes to crap . I now use a 5W30W synthetic engine oil for lubrication and everything seems to run more smooth . For now at least . I have some Questions . How long did it take you .? Did you have to replace or make any parts for it ? Did you make any dumb mistakes and if so what were they so i can avoid them? What would you do differently ,knowing what you now know ? Any tips you might have from hindsight ? Keep us posted on your progress with it . No one really talks about this subject and i wish they did . For therapy reasons . LOL Tas
  • Create New...