Tastech

With the stand you can do anything you like that you think looks good . Your frame is not the original pattern that was made when the machine was made . There are 3 versions, the one you have is the second generation which came out in the 1920's it is also the most common and in my view the best looking pattern . I will send you some photos of all 3 variations of my restored machines to give you a look at the differences . I think i have posted a few on this site somewhere before . I just got a new phone with a better camera so i will post some more on this thread using better lighting . I restore 29k's to suit my aesthetics black is not my preferred color . The way i see it is there are thousands of black originals in various conditions in the world but not many like mine . They are fun to work on ,simple yet functional and not at all hard to use . Although some parts look identical from different variations of the machine they are not . When sourcing replacement parts always make sure part numbers are identical .The part numbers are stamped on the parts. But most of all be patient , very patient . I waited 10 years to find replacement gears for a 29K53 , then found 2 complete gear boxes in the same month . Go figure .

And then there are these . 8mm , assorted finishes and dirt cheap https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005561736842.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.5aac3oGZ3oGZTi&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.327270.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!3.55!2.02!!!2.25!1.28!%402103011017134353955501997ee7cd!12000033551098195!rec!AU!3945930413!&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202404180316355972629836174016563233_0

Hey steve , have a look at these . A little closer to home as well . https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/Y1279_dash_00/Leather-Staple-SS-pkt-100/pd.php

A few years ago i did a repair on a similar machine . I used a handle from an old meat grinder ( meat mincer) . I had to drill it to size and drill and tap a grub screw to lock it to the shaft. Over all it was quite easy . If i see an old meat grinder at a yard sale going for next to nothing i buy it just so i have a few handles as spare parts . Note , most meat grinders have a square hole in the handle so take a measurement of your shaft and make sure the round hole you have to drill is compatible. Also take a measurement of the overall length of the original handle and find one that is close .

Made in 1947. The first 2 numbers are the year of manufacture . If the serial number starts with the letters RF it means the machine has been refurbished .

FDC, I have a Landis K . Not as sexy as the 12 . I have to change the color of the threads from white to black and to brown regularly . I dread doing so . I have decided to buy another identical machine set up with a different color thread . The reason i want the same machine is simply for reference mainly . I want to Clean , restore and paint my original machine but it takes time . What i fear is that from the time i pull it all apart and put it back together i forget where and how things go . Its always the case That you forget to take the photo of a crucial placement and you have to work it out . With a second machine close to it i can always use it as a reference . The problems with these machines is that nobody really knows how to repair and service them anymore and the people that own them just don't know how to look after them . I remember about 40 years ago the people that owned and operated them were very possessive and temperamental about their machine . You would get abused if you stood to close to them and shanked if you ever touched them . LOL These days we call them the angry machine . You say a prayer and make sacrifice each time before you use them because one day they sew like a champion and the next it will chew you up and spit you out . It can be quite soul destroying . Ask any one who has one and they will either roll their eyes or you will notice an expression of shell shock on their face . No one who has ever operated one knows the feeling . One thing i have found with mine is that because i use waxed thread i don't have to heat up the pot . If i do everything goes to crap . I now use a 5W30W synthetic engine oil for lubrication and everything seems to run more smooth . For now at least . I have some Questions . How long did it take you .? Did you have to replace or make any parts for it ? Did you make any dumb mistakes and if so what were they so i can avoid them? What would you do differently ,knowing what you now know ? Any tips you might have from hindsight ? Keep us posted on your progress with it . No one really talks about this subject and i wish they did . For therapy reasons . LOL Tas

As a machine man i commend you . They are a complicated bitch to work on at the best of times and it appears you have done an excelled job . They take a bit of practice to learn how to use it well but i am sure you will sort it out . Congratulations on your new born .

Hey Steve. Because i spend so much time on the restorations i could never expect to sell them at i price that covers my time and expenses. I can spend between 10 and 20 hours on restoration plus the initial cost of the machine ,I am already about 2 grand in . They would reasonably sell for 1 grand but i am reluctant to take the hit . Send me a PM with your email and if i see one that i think is a bargain i well send you the details . There was one on EBAY from Tassie a few weeks ago that was going for $450 but i think its gone . It looked like it needed a new blade but the vilh perderson blade is no longer available . I can retro fit a Landis blade but need the machine in my possession to do it because i have to machine a new shaft and make some mods to the housing . Look for an ESTO or Landis because blades are available still . What specifically do you want the machine for ? This is the tassie one . It says ended not sold so he might still have it https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204480802714 They can be hard to find in Australia but they do turn up . A lot of old cobblers have retired and died so these things are sitting in someones shed somewhere , you just have to find it . Sellers fall into 2 categories they are either asking a ridiculous price for a heap of crap or they go dirt cheap. I know of a RODI skiver ( not a cutter ) in Goulburn going for $50 but it needs a lot of work . It had a piece of fencing wire where a spring should be .lol. I didn't buy it a few weeks ago but i think i should have just in case i ever need parts . If its still there i might grab it and see what i can do . Regards Tas

I learned a long time ago that when it comes to sheds there is a fool proof formula to picking a size . what you think you will comfortably need and then double it

Match the leather color to the handle of the gun .As per photo above

Deboardp. Here is a link to the material i would recommend. Its a consistent thickness material called microcell. It is soft, flexible , easy to cut and glue and is relatively tough. It comes in multiple colours , multiple thicknesses and multiple tread patterns . Not that expensive either https://www.leffler.com.au/shop/shoecare-repair-orthopaedic/shoe-bag-repair/rubber-heeling-soling/rubber-soling-sheets/ You must have a shoe repair cobbler close by . They don't have to be high end , Even a retarded one will be able to show you some options . Cobblers are notoriously cranky buggers so go in there on the premise of getting some soles on sandals ,but you want to think about options . They will show you some different types . Make sure you feel them to gauge the material for softness . Below is a vibram tapered sole with the heel ready to go .(recommended) The other photo is various microcell . Your options are too numerous to list or show . Its all about what you want the sandals to look and feel like . You can also incorporate a layer of cork below the top layer which over time will mold to the contours of the wearers feet . All decent shoes have a cork layer under the innersole . If you want a seperate heel cut one out and glue it on top of the sole . Your sandals should be thus . leather upper sole (innersole ) ,cork midsole , And rubber or microcell or EVA bottom sole . Don't over do the leather thickness as this makes them to hard and uncomfortable . Go to a few shops and study the anatomy of a sandal all are different but you will see some thing you like and you can incorporate that feature in your design . https://www.ancient-greek-sandals.com/en/eur/mens-sandals Note the different soles on some of these sandals . Only women can wear flat plain leather sandals , Men need some contour and some taper. Be prepared to experiment , and don't be discouraged by failures .You learn valuable lessons . The greatest glory in living is not never falling ,but rising when we fall . Sorry for my long winded answers but i don't do things half assed . Balls deep or nothing .

deboardp , I am in Australia and we use different name products so links to products from my supplier would be of no use to you . Find a wholesaler of shoe repair materials in your area and source your materials from there . They will have a few different brands of high strength contact adhesive and various types suitable sole material of various thickness and hardness . same goes for heel material . You may have to buy a full sheet of the material , but if you are making a few pairs then it is economical do do so . Go to your local cobbler and ask some question and get them to show you various materials that they use . That way you will become familiar with what best suits you and you can then contact a wholesaler . One product that may interest you is the birkenstock EVA sole . Its 8mm thick and relatively soft yet quite tough . Its a good sole for sandals . The brand Vibram is also worth looking at . EVA or microcell is probably the best material for sandals because it is light weight and shock absorbing . There is also another type of EVA material that tapers from heel to toe . The heel is about 15mm and it tapers down to 8mm one the ball and toe . You have seen this before but probably never noticed it . You will see it on UGG boots mainly . Using the tapered sole eliminates the need for a separate heel . Brand is not important because different brands use the same material formula . If you are not sure which material is better for you, experiment with different types. Keep in mind that you will need 2 coats of adhesive on the leather because the first coat absorbs into the leather . By all means stitch the 2 layers of leather together but only glue the sole material on so it is easy to remove when a resole is required . If you choose a separate heel of harder material then a few small nails for extra security is good . Allow me to confess my dirty little secret . I wear crocs . There i said it . LOL Australia gets damn hot in summer and you don't wear proper shoes if you can avoid it . I like crocs because they are anatomically correct therefore comfortable , However i wear out the sole in a couple of years . New ones take a while to settle in so i resoled my old ones with EVA . Specifically the birkenstock pattern sole . I also do the same thing for my wife . She has shown her friends and now i get asked to do it for others . Even though the cost of a" birkencroc" conversion cost more that a new pair of crocs people are loving it . Go Figure . Keep in mind that Crocs are not frowned upon in Australia like they are in the US . Flipflops are king and Crocs are legendary . Birkenstocks was the preferred foot footwear of lesbians 20 years ago but now they have mainstream acceptance and i resole them frequently . Fun Fact : Because Australians wear proper shoes only half of the time our feet are one size wider than the rest of the world .

the sole rubber from cobblers comes pre roughed on the glue side to make the glue stick to it . rubber that has not been roughed can come unstuck

May i offer my advice . As a shoe maker and repairer i glue rubber to leather all day every day . Its no big deal . Any contact rubber cement will do the job but some are much better than others . I use and recommend Renia Colle de colonge .Apply on both surfaces and let dry for about 30-60 mins . With a heat gun or even a blow dryer heat the rubber piece then apply to the leather . Cut the rubber larger than the sandal and trim the rubber with a knife . At some point you are going to have to replace the sole so you heat the rubber again and with pincers remove the rubber and replace . Using epoxy is not an option because it is brittle and will crack even the flexi stuff and will do damage when trying to replace the sole , Also you have to keep the sandal in a press for 12-24 hours . Another option is to use a product called shoe goo . It is flexible but needs to be pressed as it is not a contact adhesive . I use shoe goo mainly for hiking boots especially the toe piece that returns upwards . To keep it in place i wrap a cut down bicycle tube around the shoe for a day or so . Either way contact adhesive is the best option . Yeah its a bit wiffy but so what only smells for about 10 mins and it wont kill you . I would also recommend you get proper sole rubber from a cobbler as it has a different composition than regular rubber and comes in an assortment of treads .

Unfortunately new parts are not available .However i can still buy new needles. You best way forward is to buy a "spare" machine and keep it for parts . I believe that Pederson and Junker parts are interchangeable . I recently found a Pederson machine and bought it without hesitation . I knew what it was but the seller either didn't or did not value it as much as i do . My intention was to restore it and put back to work in my shoe making trade . I love the simplicity of the Pederson ( about 40 parts ) compared to my Landis (500 ) parts . The missing parts i made to suit my needs and the machine started its first day on the job today . I am very impressed to say the least . I will still be on the look out for a spare machine with all the parts . attached are some photos .