deboardp

I was referring to some monks I know who can't find sandals that fit them. I'm not sure if these sandals I'm making, with this design, will help them. I think they will be painful to break in. Without a strap between the two big toes, the straps have to be snug to keep the foot centered. One person had surgery on the bones of his foot to straighten his foot, and my sandals will be too hard for him to break in. The only positive is that the sole and straps will be in the right places, but it seems break in will be painful and arduous. I used to build or insert arches, but now I believe that our feet are well designed for walking and the soles are for protecting them from stones we might step on. We actually have arches in our feet so I don't presume to think I can build arches. Our natural arches are self supporting. If we have flat feet, using shoes with built in arches will hurt our feet. So I make my sandals totally flat. The heel I use is only 1/8" thicker than the 3/4 sole, which is 1/8" thick. I'm considering a softer and thinner leather - a 6.5 ounce luxury vegetable tan side - for the straps. Because my straps are wider, it might be strong enough to resist stretching.

I had forgotten about the problem with own toe sandals, but taking my first walk in them brought it back to me. Without a strap between the big toe and the second toe, there's nothing to keep the front of the foot centered on the sandal except that big front strap, which has to be tight during break in, and maybe even after that. All 3 straps, actually, have to be tight. I could only fiddle with them for 30 minutes. They hurt! The straps are only 8 ounces, but the front one varies from 1-7/8" over the big knuckle and 1" even over the small knuckle. I reduce that strap to 13/16" where it comes out of the sole behind the big knuckle. It's a nice fit into the 3/4" nickel Conway buckle. I always used Conway 54 years ago, but they were 1/2". When I saw how my straps stretched out and were only 3/8" after 20 years, I decided next time I'd go 3/4". However I did buy some 1/2", some 5/8", and even some 1", in case a lumberjack needs sandals. It's gonna take some doing for these shoes to break in, and there's going to be some toughening up of tender feet involved. I'm surprised that after stuffing about 3 ounces of an 8 oz can of Colorado Leather Balm and then a bunch of cod liver oil the straps are not softer. I thought of wetting them a little next time but am concerned about stretching. Anybody want to weigh in on how to help the break- in? Feel free!

These socks have a Grey front section so it's hard to see the sandals' front edge.

Finished them, took them for a walk... pictures first and then a brief introduction to the problem with an open toe design.

Thank you, guys. I'm also pleased with how they look so far. The black dye really helps make them look rich. I'm gluing the rubber bottom on. The glue is drying as I type this. I will probably finish them today and will take multiple pictures from all perspectives.

It's for quick raising and lowering of the shaft. Otherwise you'd have to turn the handle round and round.

Next time I dye a pair I'm going to make a sandal-sized tub for the dye and soak them in it. I had to repeat dying them TWICE. I'm very happy overall with the way they look. I can see leather grain. Here's a Louc after first dye operation. I can see red.

My stitching is awful. Haha

Hahaha I discovered that I lost my desperate motivation to get sales of sandals, you know, because I now have sufficient income to have a home, and therefore did nothing the last two months. But I finally decided to finish this pair for me. The last five days I have 1) stitched the ankle posts; 2) dyed the leather; 3) hand stuffed the leather with the warm water and hand massage with grease method; 4) let it dry, then rubbed the grease film off. Here's a picture. Tasks that remain are: 1) glue on heel and 3/4 sole; 2) apply and polish with cod liver oil; 3) final fitting/ buckle installation. I don't know why the black thread looks white. Maybe it's the grease. What is the future of my sandal shop? I know some monks who have foot problems and I would like to make them sandals. I might make it known to church members that they can buy a monk a pair if they want.

I have several sides of veg tan strap leather, 7/8 oz. The best one, a utility side, has no flaws, came from Tandy. The worst one, a hundred twenty bucks more expensive, has multiple holes through it, a craftsman side. I use it for soles, the Tandy for straps. My memory is awful. The Tandy utility side was on sale, $65 a side. Mine is perfect. The HO side I have is slightly larger and cost $260, with what appears to be spear holes here and there. It does have a firm hand, though. Both sides were selected by the vendor and shipped sight unseen.

I used them in the 1970's and again the past two years. Half of everything I buy is from Tandy. They're reliable, and the products are better than okay. One of their stores was bought by the manager and is now Springfield Leather Company. I buy stuff from them, too.

I can't backstitch with my Cobra Class 26 - it goes sideways on me. 3 layers of veg tan, but I can spin the work 180 with the needle down and then do 2-3 stitches.

Slow. The VA granted my claim for disability compensation after 15 years of homelessness, and now I will not be homeless again. So the frantic need to make and sell sandals is gone. I'm doing more for the Church and less for the sandal shop. But I'm getting closer to completing the first pair. I'll stitch the heel loops next, then glue the heel and gum rubber half sole on, burnish the sandal edges, grease her up, and put the buckle on. Probably burnish before gluing rubber on. I hope they fit!

thank you! You've opened up a new world for me, the world of rubber soles. I'll work in a visit to a cobbler soon. apparently there's a hundred of them within an hour of my apartment. I studied sandals 50 years ago, and then again this past year and a half, and I haven't changed my mind about sandals. Both times, I came up with the same conclusions, which are that 1) sandals made by a size pattern ignore the specific skeletal architecture of the individual, instead opting for a one pattern fits all. Usually this pattern of straps results in the toes being pinched together, and general discomfort if not pain, that does not stop after the sandal is broken in. Also almost all straps made in a commercial sandal are non-adjustable. If the straps are made of leather, the leather will stretch out and the sandal will fit poorly. Because of this, I resolved 50 years ago, and maintain this resolve today, to only make custom sandals. The major bones have to be marked on the foot tracing, which are the big ball, the little ball, and both inner and outer ankle bones. The straps need to encompass both balls in front, and be below both ankle bones in the back. That's for my design, which has nothing between the toes and is created so that the wearer can wear socks. I also resolved that every strap has to be 100% adjustable by the wearer, to either loosen or tighten each strap. When I look at commercial sandals, I usually shudder at the thought of buying and wearing such a cheap, ill-fitting piece of junk. It's a little like being robbed, actually. I looked at the link you sent, to the Greek sandals. Sheesh, what a waste of effort to build those things! If there wasn't the Mediterranean Sea right there, and the sun shining, nobody would buy those things. And the prices! Wow. So high! I won't change my design until I've worn this first pair and get some real feedback to my feet. While wearing them I'll make the second pair with thinner mid- and bottom-soles. Hopefully I'll find a microcell that will satisfy me. I'll try what I have on hand first, despite not knowing exactly what it is, except that it's pure gum rubber. I'll use the heels I have, too, just to see if they work. the cork is a good idea. I'll think about if I can incorporate it. I want my sandals to last a couple or three decades, and the cork might not be appropriate.

It is thick. but not as thick as what I made 50 years ago. I don't remember exactly what I bought, but I know the bottom was bend, and it was thicker than the top, which I have no idea what it might have been. A snatch-out-of-the-air-guess would be 12 ounce shoulder for the top and 14 ounce bend for the bottom, and 7/8 ounce horse hide for the straps. 12 and 14 is 26 ounces total. This current sandal is 10 ounce shoulder and 15.5 ounces of veg tan for straps and lower soles, for a total of 25.5 ounces. Because the sandal is so stiff - and that's without the rubber and heel - I will keep the shoulder for the top and move to two layers of 6 ounce luxury veg tan for the straps and two lower soles, for a total of 22 ounces total, or 3/8" (rather than existing 7/16"). It's not much thinner, but two lower soles are luxury veg tan, a supple leather, as opposed the Hermann Oak craftsman veg tan, which is firm. It might make the sandal more supple and less stiff. I guess we shall find out! I'm keeping the top at 10 oz because when I tug on the strap to tighten the front strap, I don't want the topsole to bulge away from the midsole. I want it to be the most durable sole. The mid-, bottom- and gum-soles will add plenty of stiffness, putting the overall thickness at exactly 1/2".