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Found 46 results

  1. Hello all, I have been doing leather work for a few years now and I do it out of my apartment. I have tried many different adhesives on my work and ended up preferring barge glue over them all. I do large amounts of glueing, as I glue liners on all my work. The trouble is that barge glue stinks up the entire apartment even when doing it next to an open window and forces my wife and son to breathe the toxic fumes as well. I have considered buying a respirator, which would protect me but not my family, so that's out. I have also considered a vent hose the sucks the fumes through a window to the outside, which seems like the best option. My concern is that barge is flammable. From the reading I have done, it has been recommended that 'spark resistant' or 'explosion proof' fans be used when venting flammable vapors... But they cost and arm and a leg! I don't have that kind of money to spend but need a vent solution for the glues and dyes I use. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears! Thank you for reading and God bless! -Dave-
  2. NicholasJ

    Laptop and Bridle leather

    Hi there, I am inexperienced when it comes to leather working. Following reading some books and some advice I have a few tools (which seem to be super expensive) and some bridle leather. The thickness of the leather makes it a bit unwieldy and I think the advice was not as good in this area. Having just bought a new computer, a 13" laptop, I would like to make a leather "skin" for it. I propose to cut the leather so its a few mm larger than the computer and simply stick it to the case. This will provide plenty of protection from scratches and bumps etc whist providing some much needed expression of individuality. The thing is I don't know what sort of glue / fixing to use. From using google most people say I need to scratch up the metal to make glue stick which I do not want to do. Also, at the end of its life I would like to take off the leather, clean it up and sell the computer on... My thoughts are that there are some very clever glues now a days. When a credit card arrives for example there seems to be some sort of silicon gel that works paper to plastic. With a prepared piece of leather to metal...? So, can anyone make any recommendations or is this simple the wrong approach for this? Kindest regards, Nicholas
  3. Hi, I am making a knife sheath that is causing me some trouble and am wondering if anyone has a solution. I have the welt glued in with reina aquilim 315 which is a water based contact cement. It works great and I do follow the directions about applying to both sides, waiting until clear (around 30 min), then pushing pieces together and hammering. Then I waited at least 24 hours before using my awl and it seems as though the glue gets stuck to it creating little boogers. It makes it hell trying to punch the holes as well as slightly dangerous and prone to error when trying to hit the groove on the back side. I have been gluing the entire piece, so my next thought is I should try gluing everything except the area close to the approximate location of the stitch line. I think that would help, but on a welt - there really isn't much space there. I really don't want to resort to using Barges or the other hardcore cements, anyone else have this issue and have a solution for it? Thanks!
  4. Hi everyone, Hope your holidays are going well. I know that trying to iron on patches with glue backing on leather does not work well, as they don't stick. But what about suede leather? I have some ladies western style fringe suede vest. I also sell Native American style patches with very good iron on glue backing, not the cheap stuff that never sticks! I assume since suede leather is very "fuzzy" that glue would stick well to it, but I don't want to ruin a vest trying to find out. Anyone know if glue sticks a lot better to suede leather than normal leather? Thank you.
  5. Hi all, It's been a long long time since I posted on here. I am currently experimenting with putting my embroidered patches that I sell onto leather purses and other small leather items. They have a very good solid heat glue backing. However that does not work well on leather. I did some searching and see that PETRONIO RUBBER CEMENT seems to be a good glue for leather. Is there anything better than that? I suppose I may have to rough up the solid glue backing on the patches to get them to stick. I tried the best glue that Tandy leather has and it did not work good at all. Any advice or tips much appreciated. Thank you.
  6. I am making a heat shield for my motorcycle, I have my pieces cut out and dyed. After I got this far, I was like "Should I have glued my two layers of 4 oz veg tan leather before dying? When do I add the satin sheen?" I plan on gluing it down then stitching around the edge. I just want to make sure with my next project to do it in the correct order. TYSVM!
  7. GeorgiaK

    Aquilim 315 in Europe

    Could you suggest a shop that sells Aquilim 315 in Europe? Shipping cost can be sometimes higher than the actual product and I would like to have some options to choose form. Thanks, Georgia
  8. Opened my water based glue (Saregum) and found mold on the walls of the container. The glue inside the bottle doesn't have visible mold. I am very apprehensive to use the glue and will probably throw it away. I've occasionally dipped (new, dry) q-tips directly into the jar of glue in application, and almost certainly, tiny pieces from the leather have gotten back into the jar. Wondering if anyone knows why the glue could have molded? Wouldn't have expected it to, but I'm not very familiar with water based glue yet. Also, would you agree that it's best to throw it out? Will pour from my main container into a per-use container next time so as to not contaminate the main jar of glue.
  9. Hello everyone! I am fairly new at leather craft. To this point I have made a few pouches, belts, journals and delved into leather carving - but I've always used veg-tan fresh leather. I found a brief case at a thrift store yesterday (covered in dust and quite lonely). I really liked the style of it, and would like to modify it (smaller mainly) into a handbag. So in taking on this challenge, I've run into some conundrums as aspected haha. As I mentioned I've never worked on old leather, and this leather does appear quite thirsty. But also appeared to be a moderate quality bag as far as machine made goes. It doesn't appear to have a thick finishing layer, the moment I spritzed some water on the bag the leather soaked it up. Photos below (first 3 original bag, last 2 since desconstruction). My main two questions (at this point) are: 1) glue...ideas on removal? The bag was originally partitioned into 2 compartments, I'd like 1 larger compartment for the handbag. So I basically just need to get rid of 1 strip of old glue down the middle. 2) cracking... I'd like to bend the leather in 1/2 where the "<=>" shaped leather pieces are positioned. On first inspection of the leather in the area I plan to bend, I noticed some cracking :/ (prior to me attempting to bend). Any thoughts on how I can prep this leather to accommodate bending/minimize further cracking? Thank you so much for any advice you can lend me in this endeavor!
  10. Hi Everyone, First post here. I am using Wickett and Craig harness leather for the first time. I am planning on using Master cement to glue my wallet together, both flesh to flesh and grain to flesh. I've heard applying two coats can make the bond stronger. Have y'all tried this? I have the refinished harness, so it is slick, oily and waxy...not great for gluing. Thanks for any help, guys.
  11. Kenl

    3M glue

    I can't seem to find a previous post on using 3m spray adhesive on large flat areas of leather and fabric to be glued. Which 3m product is best the red or green can. Or is there a better product to use. I am wanting to glue liners in bags before sewing. Thanks
  12. Ok I am brand new at this, I saw online where many people use rubber cement as a temporary binder to hold things still till it is sewn. I do not like the smell but I may be able to handle it Then comes the Barges in a blue tube. WOW no matter the ventilation if I smell it once I have a headache for an hour. Even after it dries for hours if I go near it I get a headache. What are good replacements for them that have much less smell? I was just using some Gorilla glue jell. I only used very little but I did not smell it at all! Will that be as good for a permanent option as the Barges? What can replace the rubber cement? Thanks Sled.
  13. Just a heads up for those of you who use WeldWood Contact Cement gel, Lowe's has it on clearance. I believe that they are either getting rid of the old designed cans to possibly replace them with new ones OR moving away from carrying the 1 gallon cans. They do have the smaller cans of the gel, but the gallon cans are the better buy.
  14. Brooks125

    Barge Cement

    Is there a method (which I'm sure there is) to NOT get Barge cement on your fingertips when lining up belt edges? I hope I'm not divulging my naivete', but this is getting old. It's to the point that I wait to get a batch of belt orders so I don't have to spend EVERY day picking at Barge boogers off my hands.
  15. Misterbeesleather

    Leather glues how do they work?

    I'm new to leatherwork. I'm looking for a glue I can use to stick leather pieces together so I can stitch them perfectly without all the parts moving around. Are there any glues I can use that can only stick temporarily And won't destroy my leather when I try to make my wallets. Thank you so much!
  16. Levins7

    Super Glue on leather?

    Hey all, new member and leather hobbyist here. This may be a very dumb question, but can I use super glue to bind edges of multiple layers of leather? I don't have a leather or saddle shop near me, so resources are limited to Hobby Lobby and online. Thanks, JC
  17. Brooks125

    Barge Cement

    Is there a method (which I'm sure there is) to NOT get Barge cement on your fingertips when lining up belt edges? I hope I'm not divulging my naivete', but this is getting old. It's tot he point that I wait to get a batch of belt orders so I don't have to spend EVERY day picking at Barge boogers off my hands.
  18. So far, I have been using Tandy's rubber cement stuff to hold two pieces of leather together so that I can sew. The problem I have been having is with wallets in particular. I make the inside portion of the wallet shorter lengthwise than the outside, in order to assist the wallet in folding. So the cement I have been using doesn't work great because the two pieces wont hold in place while I wait for it to set up (I tried using clamps, but they mark the leather). Long story short, does anyone know of any glue that hold leather on leather really well that isnt extremely messy or overly toxic? I have read that Barge's is extremely toxic and contains carcinogens. Does anyone have experience with Weldwood? I guess I am looking for more of a permanent bond to hold the leather in place without clamps.
  19. I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
  20. I am making a folio case and need to line it with pig skin, but the Horween leather I am using is very very waxy and I am worried the glue will not stick. I am wondering if there is away to remove the excess wax before I glue them togeather Anybody had the same problem and what did you do to get round it? Thanks
  21. panchoskywalker

    Which glue should I try now?

    Hello, I make watch leather straps and I've found that sometimes when I use minimal stitch the 2 pieces get unglue after a couple of weeks of use. I use Tear Mender. When that happens I apply loctite to fix the problem but I would like to find a glue that works from the beginning for this kind of use. Any suggestion?
  22. zaynexpetty

    Gluing canvas to wooden dowel?

    Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
  23. Hi, I'm trying to make a roll up backgammon board with leather on the outside and a silk cotton mix fabric on the inside. I'm having some trouble finding the correct bonding agent/glue to stick the fabric to the reverse (suede side) of the calf. The issue arise when I try to roll the board up (fabric on the inside), once rolled and unrolled ridges appear on the fabric which do not flatten out. Can anyone recommend a glue or something which will fix the two layers together enabling them to roll and unroll smoothly without bumping up. So far I have tried: vilene bondaweb (works perfectly for fabric to fabric but ridges up with leather), copydex (same problem), fast tak spray glue (doesn't ribbed up so badly but makes the board too stiff and dry, also leaks into the leather - however is amazing for sticking leather to wood!) Am based in the UK but am happy to try anything I can get my hands on.
  24. Hello All - I am a new member, and this is my first post. I'm excited to begin learning from this community. I have an antique bicycle saddle that has split on the "nose," where it was riveted to the metal subframe. I'm debating whether or not I should try to reconnect the leather in this area, but do not want to experiment anything with the process. The value of the saddle is ~$300, so I do not want to risk devaluing it. Having said that, I've been looking around and seen a few products advertised to "glue" leather (Tear Mender). Would this be a safe method to use? In addition to this, should I use any other products to glue the leather to the steel subframe...was considering some kind of epoxy for this because it will be hidden once the leather itself is mended. Finally, is there anything I can use to fill the joint and color to match the rest of the leather? (see 2nd photo) I will not ever actually use this saddle to ride on, so I am not concerned with any weight stresses that would otherwise occur. The bike will only sit on display. Please see the photos below and let me know your thoughts! Thank you!
  25. Hi everyone. Does anybody have any experience with Goodsjapan glues? Which one proved to be good in gluing some horween chromexcel straps in particular? Any thoughts would be appreciated