Brooks125

I don't finish interior edges, and the Ostrich is a veneer. Normally I would burnish the interior edges, but the OL doesn't cut well with and edger. That was all by design. I did the heavier one first and didn't like the weight, particularly on the front bend. With the Shell being about a 4+ (and not that absorbent) it gets pretty stiff to fold over. It turned out OK, but the lighter one is just about right. Shell Cordovan is certainly picky in some ways. I don't know that I would use Shell voluntarily, but the customer "loves" it and supplied the material. I was happy with it in the end. Thanks for the input!

I probably should have asked ahead of time but, is there a trick to working with Cordovan on holsters? I did find that using the 8/9oz cowhide base was pretty thick. The second piece used a 5/6oz veg tan and molded much better. My biggest concern came with the wet molding and losing the bright finish on the Shell. I was mostly able to get it back with a standard polish/brush/buff, but wonder if there's a better way to work with this stuff? (By the way, that's an Ostrich Leg top strap)

Depending on where you are in NE Ohio, Weaver may be worth a drive to look at the leather in person. If you do, fuel up before you go ... no gas stations nearby.

I took the order with and conveyed that this would be a "guinea pig" job. He and I may both learn from this and I may rework it as an inlay, like you suggest. He has strict orders to let me know how it wears. Thanks for the supplier suggestion, we can always use more!

Resolene, resolene, resolene! The hide takes it well and the scales lay down pretty well. I'm happy with it and hope the customer is as well! I constructed it finished side in, as I do with most exotics. It helps with the absorption for molding.

Update .. and I'll post photos soon ... I put resolene on a scrap piece and it does seem to help quite a bit. I used "naked" hide and I have the holster molded and the scales are laying down ok. I think I'll go heavy on the resolene and see how that does. Stand By ...

I have a request from a customer to put a python hide on a holster for his Colt Python. I got a hide from Springfield Leather Co. and it seems "dry". I think it's the larger section of the snake, about 12"+ wide. Is there something I need to do to to keep the scales from peeling off ... or do I need to find another hide? I guess I'm wondering if this is the norm (I'd rather stick to Ostrich Legs)

What little I've looked at 3d printing programs, most are vague, low quality replicas. The high quality replicas look like they're probably good, but you run into the same problem; the easy-to-find are common models, and too few choices when it comes to guns that are hard to find.. I'm sure this will be the way of the future, and hopefully selection will expand when that happens. We will see. It'll be nice when you can buy a $200 machine and $5 downloads ... just not there yet!

I'll ask first ... With a few great suppliers of dummy/mold guns closing down, Duncan's and Boise Foundry among them, has anyone sprung up to fill that void, especially with larger frame revolvers. I know Bunkhouse Tools has some larger revolvers, but they are better for single actions, mostly. Also, when I run into a brick wall for dummy guns, I have begun to acquire quite a little collection of non-firing replicas and airsoft/BB guns, which have worked well for me. Steer clear of Asian suppliers - I got burned once and won't happen again. If the only supplier you find is Asian, the product most likely does not exist and you will not get it! If it exists, it'll be available elsewhere. Some of the better suppliers are: https://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx https://www.airsoftmegastore.com/ https://www.denix.es/en/ .

I must start by pointing out I DID NOT MAKE THIS. I do leather work, but I'm on the machine stitched gun leather end of the spectrum. I am a DARE/SRO at our local schools and have interaction with students. In the course of doing gun leather, I end up with a lot of scrap with rough back sides that I don't use on my items. I asked one of the art teachers if they have any students that want to work with leather. She said she did have one in particular that worked with an aunt who encouraged her creativity. I may give he 10-20 sq feet in a few pieces at times. Most stuff is a couple feet of veg tan and few exotics or chrome tan. When I came into the office today, the secretaries made sure I went right back to check my chair. To my surprise, there sits Bender in all his glory! I ... was ... floored! He stands about 28" tall (I didn't measure) and he will be with me as long as I'm at the schools. If you're into this type of work, get your patterns, keep making items and share your craft. IT IS COOL! (By the way - I like to pun of him being a "leather Bander")

In the words of Suzanne Sommers' character ("Blonde in a T-Bird) from American Graffiti - "I do love tuck and roll leather"

I use a 6-ton shop press from Harbour Freight, less than $100. I got a couple 3/8" steel plates from a friend of mine that does metal work for the top and the Weaver red base plate on the bottom. I use it to cut the back pieces for shoulder rigs. Weaver made the clicker die for $125 from my drawing. Clicking makes it much easier to use up smaller scrap and I can batch the labor and do a lot of pieces at once. Like FredK said, I sometimes move the die around and hit it in a couple shots, but they come out clean. I would advise against hand-pounding dies, though. You'll do more damage beating them up than you would save in time or cost.

Sailrite offers a 5/16 ferrule, which is longer than the standard. I use them for attaching a stiffener to the thumbreak. Until then, it was a lot of cursing and wasted caps! https://www.sailrite.com/Snap-Fastener-Button-Silver-5-16-Barrel-Nickel-Key-A

So far, this seems to be the solution. I came down this morning and it was happening WAY too often. I swapped out the thread as suggested above ... no help. Since this is, apparently the only "how-to" video NOT on YouTube, I called Toledo Ind. and he walked me through removing the head cover (not hard at all) and a couple set screws loosened and tightened, we're back in business. Thanks for the help everyone.

There is a groove for all four lines. It does get easier as you go!