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Brooks125

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About Brooks125

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/21/1968

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.workadaygunleather.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NE Ohio
  • Interests
    Gun leather, belts and all custom gun leather work

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters and Gunleather
  • Interested in learning about
    Improved designs and techniques
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Solo-surfing the internet

Recent Profile Visitors

2,748 profile views
  1. Cutting 1:1 water to resolene, ike most on here. The airbrush came from the local craftstore, probably a middle of the road quality airbrush. For daily cleaning when I'm using it a few times a week, my cleanup is to SUBMERGE the intake and spray tip in a cup of water, preferably warm, and SPRAY underwater. It will run water through the whole working parts. It's a quick cleanup and usually works well for a day-to-day clean. I still pull it apart and clean with airbrush specific brushes at least a couple times a month. So far, so good for a couple years on this brush.
  2. Yes. They aren't flat. I make them to curve around the body. Send him to the site and email is the best contact. By the way, I would have called the picture above a pancake. Two piece design with gun in middle, to me, is a pancake. I'm guessing he doesn't want a flat design ... which does suck.
  3. Hey ... just looked it up. If 9 and 40 are the same (many are), you may have your beast right here! https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/bluegun-holster-molding-prop-for-kahr-pm9-wcrimson-trace-laserguard-p-5133.html
  4. Factory Laser or aftermarket? Does such a mold gun exist? If not, I'd need the gun and that's a deal breaker. Shoot him over to www.workadaygunleather.com if he wants a quote. I don't call my pancake holsters "pancake", so he may be happy! All that said ... it's sounding like JLS has a new customer!
  5. Here's an early one of my crossdraw revolvers. You may have found, revolvers are TOUGH. You need a lot of meterial to get around the cylinder and not much to get around the rest. I use cheap latigo scraps from a muzzle loader shop and make "sketch" holsters. It's kind of an art-meets-science process. Yes, this one here is a Vaquero single action, but the trigger is covered likea DA. (my other pics are too big, I guess)
  6. Clamshells were more common years ago in police work. Some were even less secure than the ones noted above. Many hinged forward, like the one MaxDaddy showed above, minus the actual latch he has shown. Horrible for retention!
  7. A few months back, I gave a photographer friend of mine my entire stock of holsters to do some nice photos. He did, and I'm sure they looked good, but he couldn't find them on his computer after he took the pics. Frustrated, I commandeered my son's CoolPix camera, got some black posterboard from the dollar store ($1 for 3) and did my own. After taking each photo on the seemless background, I pull them up in the download file, click on the "crop" option, crop it to my liking and hit the "Adjustments" key. "Clarity"- all the way up. "Vignette" - all the way up. VIOLA! right arrow next photo, repeat. Cheap and very nice for the price! It feels like I'm cheating!
  8. Weaver Leather has a great selection. They do a lot of horse tack and that's where most of their hardware is centered.
  9. A few months ago, I had the hardest time finding Military insignia stamps. I could find military-esque designs (Tandy), but I particularly wanted an Marine EGA or Army Crest design. The only decent designs I found are from http://vollkommen.com/Milling/MontanaLeatherStamps/military.html Look him up on Etsy as some of his designs aren't available from the site (not sure why). The selection includes seals, rank and other insignia. The resin isn't the hardest variety, but works well in the shop/bench press. I don't know that I would hand stamp it too many times. If you happen too be looking, look this site up.
  10. I'm not sure where the Ethiopia braid comments came from but .... ok
  11. Using different length barrels will "work", but not optimal. The correct barrel length will, in my opinion, let the holster "hug" the muzzle, even if it isn't formed to the muzzle, exactly. It's akin to cutting the bottoms off a pair of pants as opposed to hemming them. Both fit, but it's not the same. ... as for molds. Bunkhouse Tools has some great SA and vintage guns. Boise Foundry has odd, larger frames included in their catalog.
  12. I'll echo the straps comment. Those need to move, unlike the gun in the holster. No lining or even any stitching. Those will grab clothing and make an uncomfortable ride. I use water buffalo hide with a finished edge.
  13. That is some nice tooling. I especially like the directional "distress" lines on the iron cross.
  14. I line my holsters, but not mag pouches. Most of my holsters are open top and I like the extra friction they give and a nominal amount of protection. That being said, holsters that don't use a thumb break live for friction , so you will get some normal wear either way. I think it just looks better, too. I think the naked leather will do as much wear-n-tear as the lining. I use pigskin which is thin enough to avoid excess bulk. By the way, I've carried it on my own blued gun for three years on a daily basis without issue. Mag pouches don't get lined. The wear doesn't bother me and the gun will do more wearing than the pouches. I use tension screws and/or top flaps for pouches, so no lining is needed. Sorry I didn't catch you sooner, but there's my 2 cents.
  15. ... add https://www.boisefoundry.com/holster-molds to the list, especially for large frames. I just discovered they have X-Frames in 4lengths! Yahtzee!
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