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Found 33 results
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I’m guessing this is the right place? I went and purchased 2 gallons of 100% neatsfoot oil and it seems as thick as molasses and it’s a hot summer here in North Carolina. Spreading this is difficult to say the least! How do I thin this oil to correctly apply to leather? Im open to any suggestions -
Hello. This is going to be a matter of opinion as there are so many options here. So I'm making a bunch of wallets for everyone for Xmas and I'm curious as to what type of finish I should use or rather what you all would use for a wallet. I'll give some background. The leather I'm using is a veg tan Korba buffalo calf from buckleguy. I'm getting the leather pre dyed (black and another color). Likely I'll burnish the edges with tokonole and beeswax. I guess I'm looking for a decent sheen, the more "luxurious" the better I guess (whatever "luxurious" means to you). What do you guys like to use? What oils do you guys like? Neatsfoot? Mink? So my plan is to use an oil like mink or neatsfoot then finish with tan kote unless someone has a better idea. I think that will be the look and feel that I'm going for. If anyone has any ideas that will help or even just some helpful info on what Im planning to use that would be great. Or even if you have a better idea all together. I'm all ears. Thank you for your time
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Hi there, I found a forum "thread" from 2012 and I have a question similar and wonder if anyone can help! The info about decreasing the hook oiler was great and helped. But I'm wondering if I have a different oil issue. I have a Juki 1541S (actually a Yamata knock off) it is new. I am using it to bind notebooks, all paper. When sewing, oil starts to splatter from above the needle and of course splatters on the covers of the notebooks and oil surrounds the holes of each stitch. I've seen the oil drip down the needle. My first question is: Is there a way to regulate the oil from the wick up on top of the machine? The extra oil release is not consistent but happens enough to lose many notebooks. I had decreased the hook oiler when I first had this issue and it helped. I did oil the machine very very slightly yesterday so maybe it was already over oiled..... Really appreciate any ideas. The machine is new to me and still working out the kinks. I'm attaching a photo where you will see lines of sewing with oil surrounding each hole. Sometimes it is less than starts more oil inconsistently. Thanks! and all the best, Kathryn -
Hello! Extreme newbie here. I'm wondering if there is a difference between using a few coats of oil or using a brown dye to achieve a dark brown look than the original veg tan natural color. Is one a superior method? Thank you for any and all help.
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Hey y’all! I was wondering what I can use in a pinch from the kitchen to clean and bring leather back to life. A few days back I found that ALL of my leather care products have gone missing when I went to clean and condition an older saddle. I have had this saddle 3 years and I haven’t touched it, before that it sat in a antique shop for God knows how long, and before that I don’t think it was ever cleaned and conditioned. The saddle is super stiff in areas, dirty, and cracking around the tooled areas. All vital parts are in great shape. I’m leasing a horse that I can actually use this saddle on and I do intend to use it. Back to the kitchen.. I got to researching what I can use in a pinch and my search brought me here where I found an old post about using tallow. I don’t have tallow...I have pork fat, duck fat, and spray coconut oil. I opted to use my duck fat. I was quite shocked at the results and how the suppleness returned to parts of the saddle, granted my whole jar of duck fat went into the saddle..it was a tad thirsty.. The duck fat didn’t discolor the saddle either. Can I continue to use duck fat or should I get beef tallow/pork fat? Or should I just buy some kind of leather care product again? (Picture is of saddle after a jar of duck fat) -
I called Toledo Industrial sewing today and asked if they had a thread lubricating oil pot.. They do.. The Ferdco Pro 2000 has one that Mr. John Bianchi used in his western belt and holster making video set. That's how i know about an oil pot. I ordered one and am attaching it to my Cobra 4 machine.. This should help when sewing thick leather where the needle likes to stick.
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I'm fairly new to leathercraft and one topic that I still have so many questions on is dyeing and treating leather. There's just so much stuff out there and everyone does it all differently. Now, I understand that a lot of it comes to experience and mostly personal preference, but I'd love to hear some tips/ opinions here on a few matters: 1) I currently dye using Fiebing's Leather Dye. I diluted the stuff with spirits since I found that without diluting, the colors are too intense. Whatever type of brown I used would all turn out dark brown for example, and my blue was getting too close to black for my taste too. So, I diluted the stuff. Works kinda.. I know the alcohol makes leather stiff and I'm really considering switching to Fiebing's pro dye. I've heard that this doesn't make your leather stiff although I've also read otherwise. Anyway, in the case of leather dye.. what can I do to prevent this terrible stiffness? Should I do something after dyeing, before, or both? Tips and tricks are very much welcome. 2) I've read quite a lot on this forum about Neatsfoot oil. I've read people use it to treat leather before dyeing and maybe after, I'm not sure. However in many video's I've watched here and there I've never really seen anyone use neatsfoot oil. So I'm curious, does it really help to add this before dyeing, for example? I've owned a bottle once and all I can remember from it is that I thought it smelled really bad.. I really hope someone can share their tips/tricks/opinions/knowledge on these matters. Cheers, Iris -
I am copy/pasting here a post I made in another topic to get a more specific conversation going. I have a new Juki "semi-dry" machine (LU-2810) that is lubed by an oil pump underneath for the hook and lower feed, but lubed by grease and wicks on everything above the bed. Zero oil on these upper parts. None. The manual has one page about lubrication and it's basically just about how to fill the lower oil tank. There is no information about grease - like what grease, how often to re-grease, etc. (monthly, yearly?) It is seemingly "permanently lubed" north of the bed according to the manual. I come from bike shops and factory maintenance jobs. (I was also facility and equipment manager at a big screen print shop) I live by the book for maintenance but this seems like machine suicide. There must be SOME kind of recommended interval for greasing these machines? Like...the needle bar not needing oil...that's just WEIRD. Anyone have an engineer's manual for these types of Jukis? One thing I learned long ago is that if it is truly engineered for grease - DON'T oil it. Oil eventually dilutes the grease and may not supply proper lubricity for a given part. Thoughts? One thing I love is I don't really have to worry about staining at all. No need to wipe down the foot every time I start up.
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Hello fellow leatherworkers. Recently I've been questioning myself into what is better, to oil before dyeing or after? I've been said that before dyeing so dye gets in nice and even and some tell me it's better after. And what could be the best to get an even dye? I've used sponge, dauber, brush and always seem to get blotches in some areas even if caution is used. Sometimes they look cool but others I feel the piece ends up not to my taste. I'm thinking on airbrushing the dye. Can I get your thoughts on this please? Thank you a lot! Joe.
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Hi there, This is my first post. I have read various threads over the last 3 month in preparation for making up my mind on what machine to buy and I finally settled on a used Juki 1541S. She is something like four years old, was used less than 50 hours for making cushions and seems generally to be in a good shape as far as I can say and here my problems start as this is my very first industrial machine and I do not really know anything about it. The first problem I have now is that after oiling the machine (I do not think that I put too much oil on the machine) I find oil on the backside of my sewing and is look like the bobbin thread is a bit oily too. Any idea on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks a lot Martin
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Hi folks, I've started using a couple of machines that I've had for a while and was wondering what type of oil and grease you would use for it. My fabric industrial machines came with a few litres of clear machine oil (no label) which I use for them but I'm not sure if they could be used for these machines. I have a Pfaff 335-17B (Cylinder arm for Light-Medium weight material) and a generic 801 Skive machine (bottom feed, no brand name). The 801 Skive has a grease catchment in the top left corner and I don't think every oiling port is visible or I haven't noticed them, the manual that came with it was in Chinese and I downloaded an English version but it wasn't much help (diagrams were too small). With the Pfaff 335-17B I've found the oiling ports and painted a red ring around them. The other question I had would be when I've oiled each port do I run the machine with some scrap leather to clean off the excess oil or do I just wipe it off? Cheers, Jim
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Hi Everyone, First post here. I am using Wickett and Craig harness leather for the first time. I am planning on using Master cement to glue my wallet together, both flesh to flesh and grain to flesh. I've heard applying two coats can make the bond stronger. Have y'all tried this? I have the refinished harness, so it is slick, oily and waxy...not great for gluing. Thanks for any help, guys.
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Hi leathercrafters I wonder what is the correct procedure. First oiling and than dying or first dying and than oiling. I usually use Fiebings proffesional oil dye. Thanks J. -
General Question - Anyone have any non-traditional tricks/advice on the application of the various finishes out there - Beeswax, Tan-Kote, Aussie Conditioner to share? Especially for weather-proofing? Also, I usually apply oil BEFORE staining but most videos I see don't start with oil. Pro/Con? This Link is an awesome weatherproofing comparison of various products and Fiebing's Resolene wins - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM But of course there are many other products out there so I'm seeking your experience as well as cheaper solutions. Specific Question - My process has been - Veggie Tan Leather, Mink Oil, Antique Gel and then some sort of finish (Fiebling's Leather Balm with Atom Wax but... I haven't found my favorite finish) - This process has done okay but whatever finish I use always strips half my gel stain off with even the lightest rubbing. How long do I have to wait?! I assume dye works better and is more even, but I like the way Gel Stain rubs into my stamps and gives them definition. So... solutions/tips for applying a weatherproofing finish to gel stain? -
I bought a side of oil tanned leather from Springfield Leather and i noticed how oily it was from the beginning. I decided to use it and i made a piece with veg tanned accents. After a few hours the oil seeped into the veg tanned leather. It doesn't look bad but i am worried about it getting into any content put into the bag. Is there a way to leech excess oil from the leather with rice or something like that?
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i have a cobra 4 machine and would like to add an lube pot to lubricate the bonded nylon... i saw one that weaver leather sells , but can't get it through them.. thought about trying to make one... John Bianchi had one on his Ferdco 2000 sewing machine in his holster making DVD...anyone know where i could find one...
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I have some questions regarding acrylic resolene and neatsfoot oil that I am hoping someone can answer: 1. How long will acrylic resolene last? If it is on a mask that is worn once or twice a year what is the expected life? 2. Will neatsfoot oil penetrate a piece that has been covered with acrylic resolene, let's say the piece has seen moderate use for a few to several years.
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Good evening! I'm very new to this and started on my first project yesterday. I'm making a notebook cover and I used naked veg tanned shoulder. After cutting it out, I got excited and wanted to add some color to it. I realized that didn't purchase any dye with my leather, so I lathered it in Obenauf's Leather Oil; which I use to protect my leather boots. I love the way it turned out! My question is this: Will the color hold if I do nothing? Do I need to seal it somehow? Can you even seal Oil? How can I keep it like it is without sacrificing the integrity of the leather? Thanks so much!!
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I have been making some black leather straps for several months now and I first used fiebing black dye, but the last few I used fiebings black oil dye because I have read that it is better. I admit that it seemed to go a lot further than the regular black dye but now that the product is finished it seems to me that the regular dye produces a much richer and blacker color. Has anyone else noticed this also? -
Thank you in advance for your advice everybody. Long story short I finally found a cylinder bed machine on craigslist that was adequate for what I needed. It was a Techsew GC2603 and had only been used under 10 hours. Really good shape and the price was right. Sat down to give it a test on some 6 oz veg tan and the machine locked up. I figured it was the hook assembly and told the guy that he would have to get it serviced before I would consider buying it. Tech comes out today to look at the machine. Turns out the owner had been using Linseed oil to oil up the machine. "Someone told me that was fine." According to the tech that's what caused the components to jam up. So my question for you is whether or not this is something I should consider buying even if it sews right. How bad could Linseed be? -
I've had good results using acrylic on veg tanned leather, but now I have a project that requires applying acrylic on oily leather. Is that possible? Do I need to treat the leather in any way before applying acrylic? Thanks in advance, RG
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I have some 2-4 oz Tandy veg tan that I am stamping but I am having a real problem with it drying out. After I have cased it a couple of times, in different sessions, it then gets very very dry, I have used water, and the casing solution I found on here on different pieces. After the pieces have dried then they will not take any more casing and any type of oil or conditioner (Neetsfoot, Evoo, Bee Natural oil, Lexol) soaks in, turning the leather dark to very dark. None of these oils soften it the least bit, the leather is still sttiff and dry. What am I doing wrong or not doing, or what can I do? These are just test pieces for just this reason, to learn from. Sure could use any suggestions or ideas because I am spinning my wheels at this point. Thanks in advance for any input or answers to this. Paul
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I have noticed that when I use Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye, it looks great on solid backgrounds with no tooling. When I use it on tooling or stamping it does not soak in to the tooling and darken it to where it stands out from the rest of the piece. I don't like Eco-Flo, however, it DOES make my tooling stand out when I wipe off the excess pigment. Is their a trick to using the oil dye on tooling, or is their a product that I can darken my lines with? Its really driving me crazy, because I want to use Fiebing;s only. -
It's my new bag, made with oil canvas.
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ok so i was tinkering and i managed to get a somehat burnish on oil tanned leather if i put more time in i could probbly get it pretty nice. I want to start making bags and i really dont have the experience to know how bridle oil tanned or latigo acts when it comes to burnishing. I want to make bags but want to be able to get a good smooth edge. Any suggestions on types of leather i should use? My first bag will most likely be made of veg tan because thats what i have plenty of to make mistakes with as i learn.
