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  1. Hello Everyone! I came across a leather wallet in an antique store that caught my eye and I really love it! I have been trying to find some information about the company so I could also perhaps determine the age of the wallet. The antique dealer said that the person who brought it in focuses a lot on items from the 1920s so it could possibly be from that time. I am hoping that someone from England perhaps knows of some info or resources that could help me track down the history of it. I appreciate any help I can get. I'm also amazed at the condition this is in if it is indeed about 100 years old! I also really love the patina on it. I plan on restoring it a touch to get it back into functional condition and I will actually use the wallet! Here's what I have found out so far: 1. Stamp inside says, "Bohanna & Tasker Co Manchester" 2. Internet search found a book titled "The Commercial Directory And Shippers Guide" from 1879 where it mentions that the company is a wholesaler and has two locations in Manchester. 3. Unverified info that it came from the 1920s Hopefully this link works (I wasn't able to upload the images on this because of the size limit so hopefully you're able to see it with the link)
  2. From the album: Vintage & Antique Finds

    Unverified dating of around the 1920s, Bohanna & Tasker Co were a wholesaler company based in Manchester, Liverpool, England. Still researching information about them
  3. I'm building up an inventory. Here are three I completed this last week. Pink and Red Saffiano with beige Ritza thread. Blue Saffiano with blue Ritza thread. Bronze metallic Saffiano with faux ray-skin pockets, using chestnut Ritza thread. Each time, they go a bit faster and a bit smoother!
  4. All my new wallets together. The brand newest one is at the bottom -- it's cream Saffiano, with cream Ritza thread, with a black glossy/textured interior. I can't recall what that leather pattern is named. They look so good together!
  5. I finished this small "clutch" bag for a co-worker. Some nice chrome-tanned floral print leather, with a matching strap.
  6. I decided that I needed a second, slimmer wallet, and I had some nice green remnants floating in my stash. So I whipped out a pattern for a bi-fold, extended it, eyeballed it, and about 6 non-contiguous hours later, here's what I ended up with. The inside uses three different card pocket styles, in black pigskin lining. Ritza sage green and Ritza green are the threads I used, with a 3mm stitching iron. Edges are black Tokonole. I love the color and texture of the green leather!
  7. I made a quick minimalist wallet. I used 2oz veg tan, Fiebind's Russet brown, Ritza tiger thread .6mm.
  8. This was my first attempt at a wallet. My old store-bought wallet was falling apart and I wanted to replace it with a real leather one. Not perfect but it works. The wrinkled plastic window is from the old wallet.
  9. Afternoon Everyone! Me and my girls did a craft fair a couple weeks back and I ended up selling a gentleman the wallet out of my pocket that I had made for myself. So, I needed a new one. Here are some picture of it. I'm pretty happy with this design. If I made another one I would make it about 1/2" wider so the card pockets would lay better but. I have 8 cards in the pockets and my work badge in one of the outside pockets. You can see in the last picture that I put pockets on each side between the cash pocket and the card pockets. I could have gotten a little more meticulous on my corners but I knew I was making this one for myself so I called it "good enough." Let me know what y'all think!
  10. Guest

    Wallet Needing Fixed - UK

    Hi, I am looking form someone to fix up and old sentimental wallet for me. it’s very worn and needs a bit of work. I would be looking to work with someone that thinks they would be able to help if you could contact me at - abbierobertson321@gmail.com that would be great!! Thanks, Abbie
  11. What do people use for ID windows in wallets, etc.? I have had things with ID windows that "melted" photocopy ink which then became fused into the window material. Does anyone know why that happens? How do I choose materials for which that will not happen? What materials do you use and how do you choose them?
  12. I made a personalized wallet for my boyfriend. I started by creating a prototype for practice because it's my first time working with this kind of leather. The leather used in the prototype is too thick so I could only do one pocket per side. So I made sure to get thinner leather for the pockets of the final version. I also included a picture slot using recycled plastic from a clear envelope. It a bit hard to sew the leather layers with the plastic because I had to use super glue to make sure the plastic is secure. To add a sentimental touch, I included a quote in one pocket with letterpressing and foil stamping (I include a personal message behind the picture slot for my boyfriend). Doing a prototype first helped me improved on burnishing edges and sewing, although I think I still have a lot of room to improve when it comes to symmetry and consistent measurements. All of my tools are hand-tools too, so it's harder to be accurate, although I'd like to think of design errors/mistakes as adding character to the product. If you have any suggestions or feedback, I'd appreciate it. Right now, leather crafting is a passion and hobby for me, and I've only ever made leather products as gifts to friends and loved ones, but I'd like to improve my skills hopefully to mature into my own brand. On that note, would this wallet be something you'd like to use? What would you change/add/remove if you were to use it? What do you like best about it?
  13. Hello everyone I graduated from a leather course where I've used the Durkopp Adler 669 cylinder arm machine. I am looking for a machine that can be comparable to that, but preferably cheaper. I'm making small leather handbags - it needs to have a cylinder arm. I would like to make belts and wallets as well. I would say I need something that sews through medium thickness, is simple and can sew slowly and precisely when needed. I am looking at the Consew Model 277R-3 and PFAFF 335 and Techsew 2600 Pro models at the moment, but I am also open to find a model that is used or just an old type, but not too sure which brands are the most reliable. Thanks for your help in advance Blanka from Montréal
  14. Hello! Ive been noticing when I do my edging and burnishing it transfers the dye onto what it lays on. I guess maybe my process is the problem? I bevel the edge first and sometimes wet the edge and burnish real quick to get a smooth edge first or just bevel. Then I usually dye the edge with black or brown, then burnish smooth to get a clean edge. After it drys, I sand or burnish with Tokonole to a glassy finish, then let dry for the night. Then i assemble next day or later. But if I do that, say on a wallet or bag and it lays ontop of another piece, it dyes that back piece. How do I stop that? I did a picture of a bag I did and you can see it slightly doing it already. If it gets used a lit it rubs a lot on it and transfers it. Any ideas how to stop that? Ive tryed paint before and its ok. Maybe a wax or a clear coat?
  15. First time trying alligator, ordered an extra small piece and I think it turned out ok. I hope.
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