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Showing results for tags 'wallet'.
Found 360 results
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This was my first attempt at a wallet. My old store-bought wallet was falling apart and I wanted to replace it with a real leather one. Not perfect but it works. The wrinkled plastic window is from the old wallet.
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Afternoon Everyone! Me and my girls did a craft fair a couple weeks back and I ended up selling a gentleman the wallet out of my pocket that I had made for myself. So, I needed a new one. Here are some picture of it. I'm pretty happy with this design. If I made another one I would make it about 1/2" wider so the card pockets would lay better but. I have 8 cards in the pockets and my work badge in one of the outside pockets. You can see in the last picture that I put pockets on each side between the cash pocket and the card pockets. I could have gotten a little more meticulous on my corners but I knew I was making this one for myself so I called it "good enough." Let me know what y'all think!
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Hi, I am looking form someone to fix up and old sentimental wallet for me. it’s very worn and needs a bit of work. I would be looking to work with someone that thinks they would be able to help if you could contact me at - abbierobertson321@gmail.com that would be great!! Thanks, Abbie
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What do people use for ID windows in wallets, etc.? I have had things with ID windows that "melted" photocopy ink which then became fused into the window material. Does anyone know why that happens? How do I choose materials for which that will not happen? What materials do you use and how do you choose them?
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I made a personalized wallet for my boyfriend. I started by creating a prototype for practice because it's my first time working with this kind of leather. The leather used in the prototype is too thick so I could only do one pocket per side. So I made sure to get thinner leather for the pockets of the final version. I also included a picture slot using recycled plastic from a clear envelope. It a bit hard to sew the leather layers with the plastic because I had to use super glue to make sure the plastic is secure. To add a sentimental touch, I included a quote in one pocket with letterpressing and foil stamping (I include a personal message behind the picture slot for my boyfriend). Doing a prototype first helped me improved on burnishing edges and sewing, although I think I still have a lot of room to improve when it comes to symmetry and consistent measurements. All of my tools are hand-tools too, so it's harder to be accurate, although I'd like to think of design errors/mistakes as adding character to the product. If you have any suggestions or feedback, I'd appreciate it. Right now, leather crafting is a passion and hobby for me, and I've only ever made leather products as gifts to friends and loved ones, but I'd like to improve my skills hopefully to mature into my own brand. On that note, would this wallet be something you'd like to use? What would you change/add/remove if you were to use it? What do you like best about it?
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Hello everyone I graduated from a leather course where I've used the Durkopp Adler 669 cylinder arm machine. I am looking for a machine that can be comparable to that, but preferably cheaper. I'm making small leather handbags - it needs to have a cylinder arm. I would like to make belts and wallets as well. I would say I need something that sews through medium thickness, is simple and can sew slowly and precisely when needed. I am looking at the Consew Model 277R-3 and PFAFF 335 and Techsew 2600 Pro models at the moment, but I am also open to find a model that is used or just an old type, but not too sure which brands are the most reliable. Thanks for your help in advance Blanka from Montréal
- 22 replies
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- handbag
- cylinderarm
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Hello! Ive been noticing when I do my edging and burnishing it transfers the dye onto what it lays on. I guess maybe my process is the problem? I bevel the edge first and sometimes wet the edge and burnish real quick to get a smooth edge first or just bevel. Then I usually dye the edge with black or brown, then burnish smooth to get a clean edge. After it drys, I sand or burnish with Tokonole to a glassy finish, then let dry for the night. Then i assemble next day or later. But if I do that, say on a wallet or bag and it lays ontop of another piece, it dyes that back piece. How do I stop that? I did a picture of a bag I did and you can see it slightly doing it already. If it gets used a lit it rubs a lot on it and transfers it. Any ideas how to stop that? Ive tryed paint before and its ok. Maybe a wax or a clear coat?
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First time trying alligator, ordered an extra small piece and I think it turned out ok. I hope.
- 19 replies
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- fil au chinois thread
- wallet
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Hello from Las vegas! New to this site, and messing around on it but so far it awesome! I guess this is the intro page so here is some saddle stitching ive done on a long biker wallet. Interested in wallet, bags, simple little leather projects. Pretty fun so far!
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- wallet
- saddle stitching
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Brand new small leather wallet cutting die kit. $120 plus $20 shipping firm, Made by Int,l Die just before shut their doors. They sent me three identical kits! There is one left to sell to recoup the money spent
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- wallet
- wallet die
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I have a new Int’l Die small bifold wallet cutting die for sale. The company was closing and kept sending me the wrong kit (3 damned times). The kit is made with 3/4 inch rule, there are 4 pieces and never used! $120 for the set, $20 shipping, plus tax if you use a credit card or debit card. No I will not send samples (ruins the “never used” status) . Price is non-negotiable! Contact me by here, DM, or call 980-621-5851 I block weirdos
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I have a new Int’l Die small bifold wallet cutting die for sale. The company was closing and kept sending me the wrong kit (3 damned times). The kit is made with 3/4 inch rule, there are 4 pieces and never used! $120 for the set, $20 shipping, plus tax if you use a credit card or debit card. No I will not send samples (ruins the “never used” status) . Price is non-negotiable! Contact me by here, DM, or call 980-621-5851 I block weirdos
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Took some photos during the making of a wallet. So thought I share it here. Feel free to ask questions, or give critique. Parts cut and ready to be skived. Card pockets edge painted and creased (Regad FN2) Pocket sections assembled and lined and ready to be trimmed. Trimmed Pocket sections and finished lined exterior ready to be assembled. Top of exterior stitched. Stitching card sections in place. Exterior edges creased (Dupin G1) and ready to be edge painted. First layer of edge coat applied and drying. Waiting for the edge paint to dry and then heat, sand and repeat five/six times before melting wax to edges and polish. And some cleaning and it's finished.
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Was wonder what are the best leathers for the inside of wallets. I've had some success with using 3oz to 4oz for the interior and exterior shells and a 1.5 to 2.5 sheepskin I get from Tandy for the card pockets. This works ok, I like how thin it is so it keeps my wallets from becoming to bulky, but the sheepskin is so supple it can be kind of hard to cut my pocket edges square and I often end up with the panel not perfectly lining up on the edges. What materials do you folks use to keep your wallets nice and thin??? Thanks a whole bunch!
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Hello. This is going to be a matter of opinion as there are so many options here. So I'm making a bunch of wallets for everyone for Xmas and I'm curious as to what type of finish I should use or rather what you all would use for a wallet. I'll give some background. The leather I'm using is a veg tan Korba buffalo calf from buckleguy. I'm getting the leather pre dyed (black and another color). Likely I'll burnish the edges with tokonole and beeswax. I guess I'm looking for a decent sheen, the more "luxurious" the better I guess (whatever "luxurious" means to you). What do you guys like to use? What oils do you guys like? Neatsfoot? Mink? So my plan is to use an oil like mink or neatsfoot then finish with tan kote unless someone has a better idea. I think that will be the look and feel that I'm going for. If anyone has any ideas that will help or even just some helpful info on what Im planning to use that would be great. Or even if you have a better idea all together. I'm all ears. Thank you for your time
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A wallet I recently completed, using Buddhist motifs. The pattern is based on Corter and Weaver's fancy wallet pattern (with slight modifications). The colors are Angelus dyes: Rose, Green, and Light Blue. The stitching is 3mm JapanGood irons, and Kevin Lee 3mm Reverse irons. I'm starting to really like those! The inside pocket thread is metallic gold, and the outside thread is gold colored waxed polyester. The outside leather is 3mm (7-8 oz) veg tan; rather thick for a wallet, but it was from a remnant of a hide I've had for years now, and the interior is smooth, not rough or fuzzy. Inside leather is reddish pigskin and black liner leather. Edges are burnished with clear Tokonole.
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Finished this customer project this weekend. Tried something different and went with dye for the edges instead of the Uniters/Fenice paint I usually use. I’m a pretty happy with the results just wish I could have got some better pictures. Wallet is fully lined 0.6mm burgundy buttero hand stitched with 0.45mm black waxed linen thread spaced at 3.38mm edges are finished and angelus jet black alcohol dye. From the raw edge I planed first to square everything up then sanded with 200/600/1000/2000 grit sandpaper burnishing with tokenole in between grits to keep the fibres down then dyed and burnished once more then a light coat of wax was applied. I feel like my edges could have came out better but I think for my first attempt it was a success. comments and critiques always welcome
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Hey guys, Just wanted to share my first feature with Sailrite.com Feel free to check it out. My Instagram- Campleathergoods https://blog.sailrite.com/meet-our-customers/
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- washington made
- tacomamade
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I'm making a bifold wallet with the dimensions to fit up to UK-currency (Maximum bill height 85mm) I will update with some photos during the construction. I start with some drawings and a couple of photos, and will add a couple of more photos until it's finished. Ask if you have any questions. (Disclaimer: Self taught hobbyist, so construction methods are what works for me) Some information about materials used. Exterior leather: Black vegetable tanned semi-aniline Interior leather and lining: Goat leather Structur material for pocket sections: (sandwished between top and lining) Freudenberg Vildona SH-1220 Edge paint: Fenice Pricking irons: Ksblade 9spi/3mm Awl: Modified Seiwa diamond awl Thread: Xiange Twist #30 (0.38mm) or #35 (0.30mm) I haven't decided yet Glue: Renia Aquilim 315 / Renia Syntic Total Creaser: Regad F2, FN2 Drawing: Printed template (Of the finished dimensions): Card pockets cut: Card pockets creased and painted: Exterior lined:
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Hey everyone, New to this forum and leatherworking also. This is my first real project with leatherworking. I am currently working on a card type wallet and I have been running into issues with the cards, once inserted, wanting to bow out of the wallet. I started with a wallet that was 4" long and the cards would bow when inserted so I made the wallet longer (4-1/8") but still have this issue. I am pretty stumped because I do not want to go any wider and going wider didn't alleviate any of the pressure on the cards. One thought I had was making the "arms" on the upper pocket shorter. Again, I am not quite sure what the issue is here but was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Any advice is greatly appreciated and I have pictures below of the larger wallet to show the issue I am having (dont mind the awful edge paint job!). Thank you!
- 8 replies
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- wallet
- card wallet
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I have done this card holder in the same color combinations and shared here before. But trying to improve my finish so keep making it. Exterior leather: Tärnsjö 9368 Interior: Alran Sully dark brown. Thread: Meisi Xiange Twist #30 ML001 Edge paint: Fenice
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Here’s a last minute Christmas gift that was sent out. Wallet is constructed of 3oz black buttero with black 0.45mm waxed linen thread spaced at 3.38mm and black Uniters edge paint... I got this side of leather on sale from Rocky Mountain so I wasn’t able to have it split.. I usually prefer 1.0/1.5oz leather to keep the bulk down but I did a lot of skiving where I could to keep this project as thin as possible. Questions comment and critiques always welcome. Happy holidays !! Thanks for looking