Search the Community

Got these ' toys ' today. One is a Wynn & Timmins England 1-5/8" punch, and the other is a ' Footprint England' 2" punch . Barely used, and in good condition. I know new ones can be bought, but I'm not paying up to $190 for a 2" . The 2" was $65 au at an antique/rustic/junk shop/yard thingy And besides, I prefer vintage stuff as they are built to last .Could have spent hours in there, and spent a lot of $$$ too. They also have some blacksmith bellows that I've had my eye on for a while now, but it was out of my price range.....for now Have to save my pennies. In the background of one of the pics, is a ' Tilley Parafin' iron ( mainly for display) , and a ' Companion Australia ' blow torch in working order , just 'ripe' for restoration, I already got one, and restored that . HS

Craftool flower stamps available $10 each plus shipping

Hey guys! Here is the bottle holder for my bicycle I've sewn using old ( >30 years) veg tan leather. Was a real challenge due to its tendency to crack. I used the butt joint and the box joint. Gave up on leather straps and used laces for fastening to the downtube. Metal is to help stop up-down movement. Thoughts?

Vintage/antique Whitfield leather splitter No. 599. The tag reads Whitfield, Hodgsons & Brough Ltd. Boot Repairing Machinery Specialists. I am not a leatherworker, but will do my best to answer any questions. The crank turns easily and the knob on the top horizontal shaft adjusts the distance between the rollers. The blade is 7.5" wide and 3/8" thick and will need to be sharpened at a minimum. The splitter weighs 108 lbs. From the few pictures I have found on the internet, the machine appears to be missing a piece of what looks to be angle iron on the infeed side. See pic with arrow. This pic was found here on leatherworker.net. The splitter is located in Henderson, KY 42420 (just south of Evansville, IN) and at this time, I am not willing to ship. $1,750 and can hold for up to 90 days with a $100 non-refundable deposit.

We have a LANDIS hand crank skiver that belonged to our grandfather who was a cobbler in the early 1900's The base is a bit rusty but otherwise, it is functional - just needs some cleaning up. We are open to honest bids. The machine is in Michigan.

At the attached picture, you see two presser feet for Singer vintage sewing machines with normal feed dogs. I made a modification to the right foot by cutting a notch into the foot. Have you previously noticed a similar presser foot? Do you anticipate problems by using such presser foot? I tried to sew tarpaulin near the limit for such a machine with a tex 135 thread. With the modified foot, I was able to reduce the thread tension to 61 % compared to the left foot in picture. Furthermore the required pressure on the pressure foot could be reduced to 52 %. In this way it became easier for the machine to handle the same job.

I acquired this saddle from a friend, who bought it several years ago from one of her friends. There’s no obvious maker’s mark and the only possible ID I can find on the saddle is a set of numbers on the latigo holder. I assume it’s likely from a small maker and impossible to identify, but I thought I would see if anyone had any ideas. I’m also very curious about the age of the saddle. I’m replacing the saddle strings because the old ones were falling apart and it has ended up being a more labor intensive process than I expected. The strings are run under the rawhide tree. The saddle has round skirts and a wide, short horn. It was initially a light oil but has now darkened quite a bit. The tooling appears to be machined, not hand done. Thanks!!

Hello friends, I have recently inherited a very old saddle. Through a little bit of cleaning discovered that it was manufactured by the late F.O.Baird. There is not a lot of information on this maker available on the internet today. Mostly of what I dug up was related to his artwork and very little of his saddles other than their auction prices. What I did find about the saddles is that they are highly collectible and rare to find. I'm looking for a little more information -- if anyone happens to have any to share it will be appreciated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FGUt4YYFAexcmgTD8

So for sale as individual items or a lot I have the following from top to bottom -vintage french wing dividers -10spi large vintage pricking iron with polished teeth -Brand new abbey England adjustable creaser -no.2+1 Vintage J.Dixon single head Creasers (need handles) -C.S.Osborne tack/nail remover -Far right is a vintage Seam Turner i do ship internationally and Im happy to look at any offers on the tools! I also have a lot of vintage round knives like Gomph and W.rose on my site www.saddlerscorner.com

I recently bought this saddle from an online auction and I am wondering if anyone can provide insight into the kind of saddle it is or history. The leather is in really great shape but I can’t find any markings with a brand or signature of who might’ve made it. Everything seems to be in really great shape except for the velvet covering the seat. With the little research I’ve done, I have a feeling this is a riding saddle for shows. I was wanting to resell it but didn’t know where to price it at. Any help would be greatly appreciate it.

Hand made shoulder holster.

Hello Everyone, First time posting here so please be understanding with terminology and what not - any help/suggestions is appreciated. I have what I believe is an early singer 16k SV - only issue is there is not a model number tag on it like most (aside from the serial number - 5603810 - 1883) - Do you agree with this or have any reason for why it could be a different model? Hopefully once this is confirmed I will be able to track down and eliminated a few of these issues: 1- When taking off the tension part from where the handwheel attached my brother broke it. I have no idea what this piece is called and have been searching high and low. It seems to have been connect by a pin to an internal spring maybe? We have not tried to remove the part stuck in the rod yet as I do not want to make a bad situation worse. I really feel even knowing the name or part number would really help. 3- I also believe that I have a jump foot and long beak shuttle - my brother and I broke the top foot and I am looking to replace this as well - any suggestions? 4- Needles, needles, needles....can anyone tell me what you would try first/what to look for? 5- Does anyone know what this little clip would be called on the slide plate? It still stays on but I would like to complete as much as possible. Again, thanks in advance and any iformation and or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I’m new to leather-craft. I’m starting by taking apart some leather items to see how they’re constructed. And I came across this one item that seems half-finished, por at least meant to be left as “raw”. As you can see from the sides, they’re left un burnished and (hopefully) you can see the leather is completely matte. Now, it’s supposed to be full grain leather, and to my untrained eye it at least seems good quality. But the look of the leather simply feels “unfinished” or “untreated” to me. Of course, the edges need burnishing, but as this was supposedly a finished piece, I’m wondering what would you call that leather finish that has absolutely no sheen at all. And what would you recommend to give it a finish with a slight sheen, as you’d find on leather that has been used quite a lot and has developed a patina. (Or is the best thing just to let that patina develop over time.) Thanks for any input!

Hi, I am looking for someone to recreate my boyfriends wallet that was his grandfathers. I have been told it was made by someone who used handmade stamps so it will be hard to recreate. Im just trying to find someone who can recreate it as close as possible! I can email pictures but it won’t let me upload them here

Hello everyone, Firstly excuse my English it is not the best. I work with leather and have a question if anyone is able to help. I recieve from friend a old large intact python skin. It is dry, brittle and not in best condition but is it possible to treat for use in some project I have? Any information anyone can give me is big help to me because would be nice to use the skin and not let go to waste. Thank you all :)!

I am looking to upgrade some tools so my lot of stamps has to go. Below is a list one average pricing I have found and am looking to sell all together as one. Buyer will pay shipping and paypal is preferred. Looking for a reasonable offer for the lot or will barter for some BK tools. Please Pm me. $450-500 8303 Bass Jump Left $25 25.00 8362 Bass Jump Right $25 25.00 8407 Bunny $20 20.00 8343 Cougar $20 20.00 8341 10 pt Buck $10 10.00 8325 Tree $13 13.00 8307 Bulging Elk $20 20.00 8302 Moose $20 20.00 8327 Tree of Life $13 13.00 8328 Clouds $13 13.00 8315 Steer $11 11.00 8383 Buffalo $15 15.00 8412 Teddy Bear $24 24.00 8311 Wild Horse $13 13.00 8375 Leather Work Guild $30 30.00 8346 Tom Turkey $20 20.00 8368 Cougar Left $10 10.00 8321 Desert Mountain $20 20.00 8335 Butterfly $8 8.00 8374 Medical $50 50.00 8382 Owl on Branch $15 15.00 8345 Trout $10 10.00 8323 Catails $15 15.00 8305 Racoon $15 15.00 8309 Jumping Deer $12 12.00 8313 Tool Mountain Man $12 12.00 8354 Flag $8 8.00 8349 Big Horn $17 17.00 8306 Flying Duck $17 17.00 8409 Farm Chickens $15 15.00 8396 Beaver $unlisted as of now 8373 Fire Dept $50 50.00 8371 Masonic Shriner $50 50.00 8405 Steer $25 25.00 8326 Mountains and Clouds $10 10.00 8316 Mare and Colt $10 10.00 8329 Pine Trees $15 15.00 8324 Mountain and Trees $6 6.00 8322 Cactus $12 12.00 8318 Shield Eagle $12 12.00 8369 Flying Eagle $10 10.00 8365 Flying Duck $17 17.00 8361 Eagle Looking Left $10 10.00 8318 Rattlesnake $7 7.00 Cub Scout Style 2 $35 35.00 8308 Pheasant $15 15.00 8337 Rainbow Clouds $10 10.00 8332 Love Heart $10 10.00 8314 Horse and Rider $15 15.00 8366 Deer Jump Left $15 15.00 8367 Bear $19 19.00 8413 Teddy Bear $20 20.00 8344 Eagle Looking Right $10 10.00 8301 Eagle Flying Right $10 10.00 8338 Cross $13 13.00 8347 2 Ducks $20 20.00 8304 Walking Bear $10 10.00 8351 USA Eagle $15 15.00 8334 Unicorn $15 15.00 Prices averaged out $982.00

I have tried to find someplace where I could ask some questions about a job I am working on for my hay man. The only reason why I did not come here first was that primarily this is for leather and not vinyl........anyway, I was given the left hand door for a metal tubed cab frame and half the vinyl was on the rest had rotted or cracked. I managed to make a pattern and got some heavy marine vinyl and clear vinyl for 2 windows for the door. I've got all the pieces cut out and now I cannot seem to figure out if I should sew the outer perimeter first and then put in the vinyl (all inside seams were french seams), outside were fold over. OR, add the clear to the center strip and then stitch the pieces together. There are 7 pieces of the outside vinyl and two pieces for the windows. So far all I've managed to finish was stitching a lining under the center for the handle. I'm using my Brother walking foot to get the pieces together and then am taking it down to a friend that has a post machine to attach it to the frame. ANY comments or help would be great. Not sure if I ever want to make any more doors :).

Hi. This is my first post so let me start with a brief bio. I'm 64 and plunging into a long time interest in upholstery work as a hobby. I started by buying a machine before I had learned enough to know exactly what I wanted as perhaps many do. That has led me to more googling and landing here. :-) I bought a Singer 211A157AA Needle Feed machine thinking it would perfect for my intentions. I have used it successfully making a piped cushion for a window seat and replacing the fabric on two Sling type lounge chairs. But I found the needle feed to be less than satisfactory when it comes to holding the material when feeding. I stumbled onto a Consew 226 that needed some TLC but I was able to get it relatively cheap at $200. After some cleaning, adjusting, and oiling I put it my power stand and it sews just great. With the Consew was included a very old looking stand with a motor and separate clutch. It actually works but I haven't given any attention to it yet. I would like to ask you guys if it has any value and is it worth the elbow grease? I can't find a single reference to this type of clutch for sewing. Any info would be appreciated. Regards, TerryF

I am looking to upgrade some tools so my lot of stamps has to go. Below is a list one average pricing I have found and am looking to sell all together as one. Buyer will pay shipping and paypal is preferred. Looking for a reasonable offer for the lot or will barter for some BK tools. Please Pm me. Looking to get a Barry King Large Kit. $450-500 8303 Bass Jump Left $25 25.00 8362 Bass Jump Right $25 25.00 8407 Bunny $20 20.00 8343 Cougar $20 20.00 8341 10 pt Buck $10 10.00 8325 Tree $13 13.00 8307 Bulging Elk $20 20.00 8302 Moose $20 20.00 8327 Tree of Life $13 13.00 8328 Clouds $13 13.00 8315 Steer $11 11.00 8383 Buffalo $15 15.00 8412 Teddy Bear $24 24.00 8311 Wild Horse $13 13.00 8375 Leather Work Guild $30 30.00 8346 Tom Turkey $20 20.00 8368 Cougar Left $10 10.00 8321 Desert Mountain $20 20.00 8335 Butterfly $8 8.00 8374 Medical $50 50.00 8382 Owl on Branch $15 15.00 8345 Trout $10 10.00 8323 Catails $15 15.00 8305 Racoon $15 15.00 8309 Jumping Deer $12 12.00 8313 Tool Mountain Man $12 12.00 8354 Flag $8 8.00 8349 Big Horn $17 17.00 8306 Flying Duck $17 17.00 8409 Farm Chickens $15 15.00 8396 Beaver $unlisted as of now 8373 Fire Dept $50 50.00 8371 Masonic Shriner $50 50.00 8405 Steer $25 25.00 8326 Mountains and Clouds $10 10.00 8316 Mare and Colt $10 10.00 8329 Pine Trees $15 15.00 8324 Mountain and Trees $6 6.00 8322 Cactus $12 12.00 8318 Shield Eagle $12 12.00 8369 Flying Eagle $10 10.00 8365 Flying Duck $17 17.00 8361 Eagle Looking Left $10 10.00 8318 Rattlesnake $7 7.00 Cub Scout Style 2 $35 35.00 8308 Pheasant $15 15.00 8337 Rainbow Clouds $10 10.00 8332 Love Heart $10 10.00 8314 Horse and Rider $15 15.00 8366 Deer Jump Left $15 15.00 8367 Bear $19 19.00 8413 Teddy Bear $20 20.00 8344 Eagle Looking Right $10 10.00 8301 Eagle Flying Right $10 10.00 8338 Cross $13 13.00 8347 2 Ducks $20 20.00 8304 Walking Bear $10 10.00 8351 USA Eagle $15 15.00 8334 Unicorn $15 15.00 Prices averaged out $982.00

Hello everyone, Thought I'd show off some restorations/conversions that I have recently done. While not as impressive as making my own stuff, this was my first foray into larger leather items outside of watch straps which I started making about 6 months ago for myself. While looking for material for watch straps I came across some beat up old swiss saddlebags in a box under a table of an old military surplus store. This first set was from 1939 and were in pretty rough shape. The bags were so nice that I decided I wouldn't reuse the leather for straps and instead put them away and began a slow process of softening up the stiff leather. Fast forward a few months and I bought another set, these dated 1941 and 1942. These were slightly different from my previous set and in much better condition. It was with these that I decided to try my hand at converting them into something different. For this first bag I did the following: Removed all threads and rivets Cleaned and flattened the leather pieces Conditioned the leather Put it all together again by hand using Tiger thread that was a good match for the original thread and custom made aluminum rivets I also added some additional pieces: Handle (used the original connecting strap between the bags) A back pouch for papers (this used one of the original saddlebags that wasn't restorable) a lower luggage strap (used a 1942 K31 swiss rifle sling) An upper luggage strap (this used the pieces/hardware from a 1946 Swiss canteen) Shoulder pad (used more leather from the 1939 nonrestorable saddlebag) Should strap (2 K31 rifle slings from 1945 and 1952). A Swiss Army dog tag A center strap using swiss army accessory straps Modified single ammo pouch from 1944 (also torn apart, cleaned and restored) A large ammo pouch from 1962 (same as the rest) The 2nd bag is one of the originals from 1939. Unlike the 1942 bag that had 2 straps on the interior for horseshoes, this one only had a single pocket for one horseshoe. In the process of restoring this bag I again took it apart, cleaned it up and restored it. At some point in it's past a connecting bar had been poorly riveted to the back that I had to remove. It also had its original D-Rings for attaching to the horse saddle removed so I had to add new square rings to accomodate the shoulder strap. When I put it back together I decided to add an additional pouch to this one and installed it between the front piece and the gusset and the welt. I also added a pencil pouch from a Swiss Army Officer's Bag from 1970. I also installed one of the straps from the unrestorable bag and moved the interior pocket to the side. I also decided to make a sleeve for my Macbook Pro just for a bit of added protection and used the same leather that was used for the handle wraps of both bags. Modifications done to this one: Removed all threads and rivets Cleaned and flattened the leather pieces Conditioned the leather Put it all together again by hand using Tiger thread that was a good match for the original thread and chicago screws I also added some additional pieces: Handle (used the original connecting strap between the bags) A pencil pouch (from a 1970 Officer's bag) Shoulder pad (used more leather from the 1939 nonrestorable saddlebag) Should strap (2 K31 rifle slings from 1943and 1944). A front center strap using swiss army accessory straps A large ammo pouch from 1962 (same as the rest) Thanks for looking.

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a singer 132k6 and have gradually been moving through the machine and fixing some minor issues. I'm stuck on how to set the hook-needle gap. At the moment I'm using organ 214 system needles and the hook grazes the needle which I'm sure is the reason I'm dropping stitches. I don't see a lot of room for adjustment of the lateral position of the hook, but I'm sure an adjustment like this must be possible. I see 3 screws on the hook itself which I imagine are used to set the position of the hook relative to the needle travel, but are these also used to set the gap? Has anyone worked with these machines before? Do I need to try a different needle system? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Best, John

Hi all - thanks for welcoming me to your community here. This forum has been an excellent resource on my sewing machine refurbishing projects. Ive recently acquired a Singer 51w 55, it is a post bed machine. I got it from an old timer who used it for years and years doing govt. contract work. It was relatively well maintained but is running pretty rough. This is a machine I really want to do a full refurb on, but am a little nervous as parts are proving difficult to find. I started off with an issue where the stitch length adjustment knob has broken off of the threads to attach it to the handwheel. This was eventually solved with a set of screws just under the top plate. I guess I’m just curious what some recommendations would be to start on this thing, what are the first steps I take to a full clean and refurbish?

I've got TONS of unique, one-off leather for sale. A range of sizes and colors and finishes, great for small projects. I'm about to list some large hides in addition to the small and medium I have for sale. Right now I'm posting on eBay but would love to sell direct. Here is the eBay link- https://www.ebay.com/sch/racbec-61/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Better photos coming soon too! There are MANY more than shown below. Email me: Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com

I am just getting into antique leather restoration, etc. and I have a problem. I have a nice "motorcycle" or "western" belt from the 1940s and at some point it lost it's name, which was "FORTUNE" in what would have been yellow brass or chromed brass letters. I have been searching all over the web for alphabet spots but those currently available are not of the right design or size to reproduce the name. Ace Western Belts in Japan appears to reproduce these, but the cost is high and I am not sure the size is right. The original letters were 7/16" tall, or nearly half an inch. Communication with these folks is not easy because of the language barrier. So, does anyone have any letters I could buy that I could use to finish this belt? The photo of the actual belt shows other losses which I have fixed, but so far I cannot get those letters! I am also looking at restoration of this type to be an ongoing effort, so I am also looking for a source of vintage spots and jewels for future projects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!!!

I recently acquired a vintage roughout roping saddle in its original condition. It has 3" wide fender adjustment, with the old bolt and blanket pin system. From the marks left, it doesn't appear the stirrups were ever adjusted with the old lacing system, and definitely never Blevins, though lace adjustment may have been replaced with the bolts and pin system shortly after purchase. Naturally, the pins are missing, so the former owner used baling wire in their place. I'm wondering if anyone knows approximately when the pin system was in its zenith to help date the saddle. (I rode in an old JC Higgins in the early 60s that used the bolt and pin adjusters, FWIW.) There are no maker marks that I've yet discovered, though I have not yet pulled back the seat to find any marks that may be on the rawhide tree. I'd like to find replacement pins if anyone knows of any (I remember they used to be sold on cards at tack stores eons ago!), and I'm also trying to find replacement leather rosettes with the old sawtooth edge. Pics attached. Any insights are appreciated. Thanks!