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Showing results for tags 'saddle'.
Found 63 results
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I found this Simco saddle at the curb on a neighborhood cleanup day. I've cleaned it up some with saddle soap, and got the suede looking better. I can't read the number on it. It has a lot of tooling and a silver piece on top of the horn. The tree looks unbroken. to me it seems worth the trouble.
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Hello All, Here is saddle project #4 - This is a slick fork saddle I built for a friend on a Swanke tree. Finished out at 15.5" seat. 4.5" handhole w/90 degree bars. As per usual by this stage of project all I see is problems & mistakes. I'd be very glad of input from other saddle makers as my goal is to improve my work continually/ My tooling is still very amateurish. Trying to develop my own style but it seems to require a lot of practice! Looking forward to hearing critiques and input! Regards, Ron L
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Hello, I am selling a Gritzner sole stitching machine in a good working condition. It was cleaned and oiled regularly. Pictures from the machine and stitching done with it can be seen at the following link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SbHjPHS4q-634VPuNwNaDd8E9KXapoFl Please let me know if you can't see the pictures. Price: 300 eur + shipping costs via transfer service (like Transfer Go, Transfer Wise, etc.) or paypal. Shipping from Romania. Weight approx.30kg Let me know if you are interested so we can find a good shipping solution. Best regards, George
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Stohlman Style rigging and Saddle No 2 from Stohlman Encyclopedia
calibre posted a topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Hi All, New to this site and to saddle building. I have had the Stohlman Encyclopedias for years, but am just beginning my first saddle (no 2 in the encyclopedias) now. The encyclopedias are great and very detailed, but when it comes to modifying their plans there isn't a lot of info on how to do this. For example Al raves about 'Stohlman Style Rigging', but then only uses his style of rigging in one example (Saddle No. 4). I find it odd that he dedicates multiple pages to explaining why his methods are better, but then reverts back to a standard flat plate rigging in saddle no 2. If anyone has had success with using Stohlman's encyclopedias please let me know any tips and tricks to being successful with this guide especially in regards to rigging and deviating from his exact plans. Thanks! Jason -
Alright here's a question that came to me in the grocery store of all places! As best I've heard olive oil is the best option for conditioning/oiling leather particularly saddles yet, we all know supply and demand has made olive oil definitely not the cheapest oil to choose from. So my question here is what about cotton seed oil? I go to Texas Tech University in Lubbock which is surrounded by fields of cotton, so since cotton seed oil benefits my area I'd love for this to work. It is supposed to be growing to reach more markets but what if this could be a newfound market?
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Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.
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harness I am selling a Pearson # 6 for a friend. It is housed in Norwalk CT.
InTheMist posted a topic in Member Gallery
Nice condition Pearson turns freely as does the treadle base. Used for Saddle and Harness repair until last January. Pick up would be preferred, It comes with 2 additional needles, Has a small wax pot off a Singer 29, and he does not have a bobbin winder unit. I have seen aftermarket electric ones for sale. Taking best offers, -
Hello Everyone, I am new to leather work and have been making small accessories for about a year. I ultimate goal is to make horse tack for barrel racing or possibly heavy leather hand bags. I am looking at investing into a leather sewing machine, what should I be looking for? What machines will work for me? I plan to make breast collars, halters, nose bands, etc. Let me know what you think. Thanks in Advance, Jessica
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I've taken the leap to commit to making leatherwork my full-time gig. The first major step was to learn how to make saddles (just western for now) Finished saddle making school with Pete Harry from Pembroke, KY at the beginning of the month. Now that I'm back, I've opened up my business to building western saddles and do saddle repairs (in addition to all the other things I've made over the years). Now to get TLLeatherworks (Tree of Life Leatherworks) out there in social media. Already got a few repair jobs in
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This saddle has got me a liitle stumped
PaulHill posted a topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
I have had this saddle for a few months, purchased it from a collector vintage western. Has no makers mark. I believe it to be a custom. This saddle wights about 55lbs has a horn width of 7" 16 seat rawhide wrapped tree, builtin saddle bags and a skirt length of 28" Any ideas out there about this saddle? -
Hi all, Working on my first large scale saddle stitching project (a tote bag) and I'm really trying to do a good job. It's going pretty well and looks nice and slanted on the front. I'm doing a decent job of carrying that slant on the backside too, but every once in a while I'm getting a random flat stitch in the middle of my slanted stitches. When I find these stitches, I'm unpicking my way back to them and redoing them (mostly successfully), but I can't figure out what I'm doing to create them in the first place. Does anybody have any ideas? I've circle one such stitch in the attached photo.
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Hi, Can anyone tell me where I can get a pattern for a 1876 lever action, with a 28" barrel. I believe this is a 44-60 Bicentennial Limited Edition. Any advice would be welcome. This is my first post, so many thanks. Steve
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Hi, I am new to leatherworking. I have bought an old saddle for almost nothing, and I am taking it apart and refurbishing it, and (hopefully) putting it back together. I need lots of help with types of leather, what glue to use, how to stitch, what type of shearling to use, and I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future. I am happy to have found this community and all of you experienced folks.
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Hello, leather workers! My saddle never really fit me that great because of a large build-up on the front of the seat. My farrier wants me to repair some of his saddles so I thought that I'd better start with my own. I took the old seat off and skived off a lot of the annoying bulk. I then put a new seat on (rough-out this time). The next few days I covered 21 miles with it and then lightly skived the top where I felt needed skiving. I also added 4 conchos with latigo lace and replaced the lace that holds the ends of the skirts. I am hoping that doing some saddle repair will help introduce myself into the saddle-making world. I am sorry to say I did not get a before pic. Please feel free to criticize. -Ryan
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Morning y'all, don't post often, but I guess I should... I have a client that needs a horn shortened on his saddle. Has anyone done this before? How would I even start with this (it is a finished saddle...). I think that I need to strip the horn down, cut it, reinforce it with a bolt through the horn and gullet, then recover with leather ( of course!!) This seems to me to be the strongest way to get this done. The gentleman is a team roper, so the horn will be put through some good hard use... Does this sound right? Any tips?? Respectfully Frank B.
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does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
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does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
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help Need help with ID and purpose of saddle
MMHarnett posted a topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Help please! I'm trying to sell this saddle and need help identifying it. No maker's mark anywhere on it. I think it was bought for barrel racing purposes, given the seat, but am wondering if I'm wrong and it should be listed as a pleasure/trail saddle. Does anyone know its maker and/or can identify its proper classification? -
A friend of mine is requesting a purse similar to this. I realize its a lot of work, and there are techniques I need to learn. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you, so much!
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SAGE BRUSH SADDLE SHOP - TEXAS
AppaloosaBeadsLeather posted a topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Is anyone at all familiar with the Sage Brush Saddle Shop in Texas? I cannot find any information online or elsewhere. I am looking at a saddle that I have little to no information about other than what is in the pictures. It is a rawhide wrapped wood tree, the leather appears to be thick and supple and the stitching is tight, neat and straight. Does anyone know anything about the maker? Or can anyone offer any insights on the apparent quality of the saddle? Anything would be appreciated! Thank you -
Hello, I'm looking for a trusted saddle maker to make me a quality custom saddle. I'm looking for a tough ranch saddle with swells, roughout seat and round skirt. Preferably on the lighter side, but heavy duty. I'm 17 and only work part time so I'm trying to not pay much more than $1,000-$1,500. Any ideas of someone who could make me something like that in my price range? Thanks in advance!
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Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^
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We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
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Looking for advice on what I can do with this saddle! Is there anyway to deglaze the seat and dye it another color? I am hoping to take it to a dark brown or mahogany color if possible. Also, the basket stamp portion on the skirt and pommel has a glittery finish - yes, GLITTER! Is there anyway I can remove this? I love this saddle - it is very comfortable and I use it all the time for barrel racing but it is just plain tacky! Any advice is appreciated!
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I will be teaching SADDLE CONSTRUCTION design and patterning, using concepts that can be applied to other areas of construction--- including holsters, knife sheaths, saddle bags, rifle scabbards, and various cases. There are only a few seats left for both classes; however there are several openings for just the first day. Day 1 is Lecture and Demonstration. I will teach you how to take a sketch of your concept / idea and translate it to a functional design, and then to usable patterns. If you can only attend the first day, you will still go away with all of the hand-outs, notes, and a plan and method. You should be able to go home and create your own patterns after only taking this class. Day 2 is Application---I will help you make your own patterns for your own tree. You will go home with patterns! Call me with questions. 307-272-1881. http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=851 http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=852
