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Found 133 results

  1. Game

    Juki LU 563

    Can someone please help me solve a problem with the knee lifter lifting lever on a Juki Lu563? I am not able to lift the presser foot with the knee lifter as the stopper at the bottom of the connecting rod with spring makes contact with the machine after about 4 mm. of travel. If I pull up the knee lifter lifting lever by hand it works perfectly but I cannot do this with the knee lifter. Thanks in advance. Benny.
  2. BobSpr

    What is this

    I was given a bag full of hardware. While sorting it, I ran across two W shaped things. Does anyone know what they are and how to use them? Thanks. Bob
  3. taketothetrees

    Beginner's Questions...Again

    Hello everyone I'm brand spanking new to leatherwork, having only ever made stuff (bags & tool rolls) out of canvas up until now. I'd like to progress into leather; making tool rolls and ditty bags to compliment my canvas ones. I'd also like to start making belts too. As with every other newbie I'm totally confused about the tools out there and what I need / don't need. I've read forum posts here, checked out websites and watched YouTube and have a rough idea of the basics. However, I also have a lot of questions and hope to find answer here. I understand the opinion of 'Buy The Best Tools You Can Afford', but I'm not 100% committed to the cause yet, so feel that shopping at Tandy here in the UK could be a good place to start. I read both good and bad things regarding Tandy, but to me the prices are affordable and the convenience of using one shop instead of sourcing tools from all over the world is preferable at this time. Am I making an error with this idea? I'm favouring the use of Tandy's Craftool Pro Stitching Chisels. I like the idea of punching neat, clean holes straight through the leather ready for stitching (and using a stitching awl for single holes in the corners). They had a favourable review from Armitage Leather so think they'll suit me just fine. My questions here are: If I use wing dividers to score a line in the leather do I really need a dedicated adjustable groover as well? Is it a handy enough tool to use elsewhere in projects? If I use a smooth-faced hammer / cobbler's hammer on the stitches afterwards do I need an overstitch wheel? Should I get a diamond awl as well? Just in case? I can't quite justify spending money of strap end punches, even though I can really see the benefit of them; quick, clean cuts every time! I'm thinking of using templates, just for now, instead. Would a head knife be the best choice in cutting the leather, or could I get away with a Stanley knife / box cutter? I think that's the main questions I have for now. Thanks for taking your time to read this far. All the best. Pic attached in the kind of thing I make now and would like to try in leather.
  4. Hello all - I have a Durkopp Adler 767-FAS-573 equipped with a Mitsubishi Limiservo X B series control and motor. It has a Mitsubishi XC-CL-2 foot lever unit. Here’s what’s happening: i went to change the auto backtack from two stitches to three. The machine was working fine. I made the backtack change and the presser foot no longer lifts at the end of the stitch or with partial backtreadle (programmed to go needle down, presser up). Troubleshooting: At full back treadle it does the end backtack and the thread trim cycle and the presser foot lifts momentarily when the thread trims. Therefore I know the pneumatic valve for the presser foot lift is getting signal and actuating. I reassigned the partial back treadle to the backtack cycle and forward treadle to foot lift. Partial back treadle worked properly on the backtack cycle, full forward did nothing. So I know the foot switch isn’t faulty. I reassigned the functions to as before and they work with the exception of foot lift. I looked at the locked out functions. Foot lift is turned on. Should work. Doesn’t. I did a factory reset of the control. Foot lift still isn’t functioning. Everything else works. I sent the control to a company who specializes in Mitsubishi controls out of NC with this info. I think they just did a factory reset and shipped it back, but they confirmed that the control is functional, no burnouts on the board. Still no foot lift. clearly the backtack pattern is the issue... changed it back, still no presser foot lift. help...
  5. I have a 241-11 and some how the stitch length changed on me. It is on the smallest length and I need more of the longest. I’ve read previous post which said to push the plug down and force the wheel but it’s not moving for me. Could someone explain what I may be doing wrong.
  6. brennen

    Starting Leather Working

    So I want to start getting into leather working. I don't know if this is the right place but I thought my questions had to do with this thread and a others so I got bit confused. I need an opinion on whether this is a good starter set to get? I plan on making a variety of stuff mainly armor: What kind of thickness of leather are used for various things? I got a lot of different answers so I don't have any specifics, stuff like 3.6mm for armor and some thinner for straps and the like. I don't need help on templates and stuff but I found a few different leather hardening and came to baking it to be the best choice for armor. How do you go about shaping leather? I can't find anything specific enough on how to keep a shape so that I can bake it without losing the form. Is there more important pros and cons about these techniques like hardness or flexibility: I know it'll be expensive to buy leather but is there popular online stores or should I look locally? Is there tips or stuff you can off that i absolutely should know? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm doing this as a hobby since it aligns a lot with my other hobbies.
  7. Hey guys! My name is Jon. I own a small leather shop in Castroville, Texas called Spartan Custom Leather. Right now we have a 2.5 - 3 year wait list on new custom orders and need a little help catching up. If you would like to get paid to do some leatherwork, please text me and send a few pics of your work to 210-381-1299. Thank you.
  8. I have some leather armor that I got online cause I thought it would be easy to match the colors by dyeing it or what not, but I have no idea how to go about it. Is there a way to match the colors on finished leather armor? The colors vary from different browns.
  9. shock

    Getting into carving

    I am wanting to get into carving and tooling to spice up my holsters. I did a spruce tree today at our leather working breakfast and decided to go ahead and buy a few swivel knives and some stamping tools and what not. What are some good tooling sets to buy? Craft tool? Or is there something better? Please don’t ask to see my tree...
  10. Any ideas on how to fix this issue on a singer 7-34? We just replaced the needle and adjusted the tension but it seems like maybe something is going on with the bobbin? Thanks in advance!
  11. Hello- We recently purchased a used Singer 7-34 and we are having a tough time finding the type of needles to purchase for replacements. We also haven't had any luck tracking down a manual. Does anyone know what needle size this machine might take or where a person could track down a manual? thanks!
  12. BrotherRon

    Looking to sell smaller projects

    Hello all, I have started making small leather projects after 40 yr hiatus. I am currently making items such as designer keychains, small notebooks, book covers such as bible covers, any book cover specially made, belts etc. You get the picture. I am a 68 yr old disabled vet looking to sell these items at a modest price, just enough to cover the price of materials. Any good ideas on how I could go about this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God Bless Entry Actions Report Entry
  13. Hi all! I am new to everything sewing... so you can bet that I have watched every tutorial out there that I can find. However, I cannot figure out why my machine sews 2 full stitches before my skipping many, many stitches. I have a Rex607z (shh! I am poor). I have been trying to learn for its equivalent machines like barraccuda 200z amd sailrite LSW. I have rethreaded, changed the needle (135x15 tri and upholstery thread...should be #69 but it does not say clearly), re-done bobbin, changed needle bar height, checked for burrs and bent things, and re-oiled everything. The kicker, the sewing machine will sew through jersey knit fabric (1 layer) with no skipped stitches. When I sew deer hide with a straightline, the ol' Rex makes two stitches then skips everything after. If it is in zigazag, it will only pick up the bobbin thread in a straight line..not in zigzag. Anyways, if anyone has any auggestions at all about what is going on and how to fix it, please let me know! Thank you all!
  14. Frusciantes76

    Newbie help

    Hi I'm very new to working leather, like I don't even have any tools yet. I have been given a bag of sofa leather off cuts. I wondered if anyone had any ideas of what to do with it. My goal in leather work is to make wallets craved with my tattoo designs. While I know I'm a long way off from that and this leather isn't right for craving. Could I use it for wallet interiors? Thanks in advance any help would be greatly appreciated
  15. Hello all! I've recently taken in interested in leathercraft and would love some advice from others as to where I should start, particularly when it comes to figuring out which leather I should be buying. So far I've just been practicing carving, stitching, and dyeing and have made a tooled passport cover which some veg tanned leather I bought on Amazon -- which I will never do again! The leather was stiff and very difficult to stamp and carve. It almost seemed like there was some kind of coating on it as it. I see now why it was so cheap... As an avid horse person, my interests are in definitely tack making, so I'd like to start making simple projects such as wither straps, bronc halters, spur straps, and eventually headstalls. I've seen a few people suggest harness leather for projects such as these, I also see "bridle leather" available on several online leather supply stores. Is there much of a difference? What kind of thickness should I be using for these projects? Can anyone recommend the best type (and brand) of leather for projects like this that won't break the bank? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
  16. Pip

    Modelling tools

    Hi folks I have posted a bit in the critique section so please excuse the cross over. I am looking for pointers and/or tutorials in effectively using modelling tools. Especially in creating realistic cylinders, on knotwork (to make it look like beading or piping) or pillars, snakes, poles etc in pictorial carving. Do I double bevel the thing first? (a recent thought I have not yet tried). it seems like it should be such a simple thing but its doing my head in!! and I can't get it right!! I want to make this knotwork look like rounded braid next time (or maybe the time after that, or the time after that :)), and the pillars in the dragon pic look rounder. Please help thanks Pip
  17. I have been racking my brain for the past few months and I have not been able to come up with a name that I am satisfied with for my one-man leatherworking operation. I really would just like some filler words, for example: mercantile, brand, works, goods, etc... I would love to use my last name (Petty), but unfortunately, the word "petty" also has a definition in the dictionary that is synonomous with lesser quality. But if I could insert a filler word, so that "Petty" isnt describing the type of leather, or the type of operation I am running, that would be ideal. Something like "Petty (insert word here) leather goods". Or am I just over-thinking this? Because, at the same time, I think that anyone with common sense would realize that no one in their right mind would use a negative word like "petty" to describe their own product, so they must come to the conclusion that "petty" is a surname. Am I right? I don't know! Does anyone have any good ideas? What are some common generic words people use in their leather company names, or even words that people use in the trade business? Thanks Zayne
  18. Killerwork

    Edge Creaser???

    What exactly is an edge creased used for? I understand it should put a nice crease line along an edge but is it fully cosmetic? Is the a feature bonus to using one? Does my crease become my a stitch line? Am I to finish my edge before or after the crease? I am fully clueless on this tool, just needing info to find out what tools to purchase as all I have is from a cheap stitching kit off Amazon.
  19. TrendyGoat

    Bobbin issues. HELP!

    Can someone look at my attached pictures and give me any ideas of what I’m doing wrong? I’ve done everything I know to do. Wound a new bobbin, retreaded top thread and bobbin. I’m not sure what brand my machine is. The labels were removed. Any ideas of what you think it may be will be helpful. Thank you.
  20. Guest

    Singer 211g151

    I recently got a singer 211g151 and have been trying to sew leather holsters on it. I’m new to leather work. I been having trouble with the thread bunching up around the bobbin and/ or cutting the thread. Is there a way to get this machine to sew leather or am I wasting my time messing with it? I am using the braided wax thread and sewing 5-6 oz leather. Needle goes through the leather with ease it just doesn’t tighten on the bottom side resulting in the bunching up and cutting thee thread. Any help is appreciated
  21. tearghost

    Sewing machine help

    Hello, I am looking at buying my second sewing machine and need help, I have never used a machine before so I am looking for something that's user friendly has a servo motor and a speed reducer. I had bought a jack sewing machine over a year ago paid $1850.00 for it and never been able to use it, can't figure out how to thread properly I had it threaded once before and it sewed but the it had a bird's nest on the bottom of the leather never been able to fix that, now when sewing it does about 2 stitches and the top thread breaks so I don't know if it's still bird nest's on the bottom the machine has become such a head ache that it just sits there. There's no youtube video's on it I called and e-mailed the company I bought it from and no help was given from them at all so I e-mailed the manufacturer with no help at all from them either. I know I need a walking foot industrial and I have it figured out down to 2 machines the cobra class 4 and the cowboy 4500 price wise both machines are the same for the package I am looking at. I make a large variety of products mainly use veg tan, english bridle and suede for lining. I need to be able to sew from 2 oz to about 18 oz. I have chosen these 2 machines because they are cylinder base with flat table accessory when needed and have a throat length of 16 1/2 as I make anywhere from wallets, bags, holsters etc. I would like input on these machines and how well they do the job I need. What are the pros and cons and what are the experiences people have with the company they bought it from. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you in advance.
  22. Hello Everyone! Brand new newbie here. I'm a firefighter and I'm trying to get into making the helmet shields for those retiring or leaving to go somewhere else. They make awesome gifts. Which brings me to my request, is there anybody out there that has a template that I can print out in order to get a 100% symmetrical and accurate shield? The ones my department lent me are old and pretty misshapen. Also open to any and all advice from anyone willing to help out. If you made it this far, thank you for reading and I hope to hear from you all.
  23. tomsmith85717

    Roller feed vs walking foot

    I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts. So here is where I am going to ask for help. What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather. I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot. I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread. I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me. Thanks I need all the help I can get.
  24. Not sure if this topic is in the right place. What I would like to do is to get a moderator to 'Pin It' in the most suitable section in the Forums. When I read posts about almost any subject on here, I seem to spend ages trying to hunt down the easily obtainable equivalents to those mentioned in the post. Even if items are obtainable they tend to be very expensive if UK stocked and dispatched and generally out of the question if sent from the States. There are one or two examples of the reverse problem, I'm thinking of Dixon Tools and Tiger thread which you who live in USA find difficulties with. So what I am hoping for are lists of equivalents, suppliers posting with the items they supply at normal UK post rates and so on. So who wants to start? Claire
  25. Hello everyone! I am fairly new at leather craft. To this point I have made a few pouches, belts, journals and delved into leather carving - but I've always used veg-tan fresh leather. I found a brief case at a thrift store yesterday (covered in dust and quite lonely). I really liked the style of it, and would like to modify it (smaller mainly) into a handbag. So in taking on this challenge, I've run into some conundrums as aspected haha. As I mentioned I've never worked on old leather, and this leather does appear quite thirsty. But also appeared to be a moderate quality bag as far as machine made goes. It doesn't appear to have a thick finishing layer, the moment I spritzed some water on the bag the leather soaked it up. Photos below (first 3 original bag, last 2 since desconstruction). My main two questions (at this point) are: 1) glue...ideas on removal? The bag was originally partitioned into 2 compartments, I'd like 1 larger compartment for the handbag. So I basically just need to get rid of 1 strip of old glue down the middle. 2) cracking... I'd like to bend the leather in 1/2 where the "<=>" shaped leather pieces are positioned. On first inspection of the leather in the area I plan to bend, I noticed some cracking :/ (prior to me attempting to bend). Any thoughts on how I can prep this leather to accommodate bending/minimize further cracking? Thank you so much for any advice you can lend me in this endeavor!