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Found 9 results

  1. Hello. This is going to be a matter of opinion as there are so many options here. So I'm making a bunch of wallets for everyone for Xmas and I'm curious as to what type of finish I should use or rather what you all would use for a wallet. I'll give some background. The leather I'm using is a veg tan Korba buffalo calf from buckleguy. I'm getting the leather pre dyed (black and another color). Likely I'll burnish the edges with tokonole and beeswax. I guess I'm looking for a decent sheen, the more "luxurious" the better I guess (whatever "luxurious" means to you). What do you guys like to use? What oils do you guys like? Neatsfoot? Mink? So my plan is to use an oil like mink or neatsfoot then finish with tan kote unless someone has a better idea. I think that will be the look and feel that I'm going for. If anyone has any ideas that will help or even just some helpful info on what Im planning to use that would be great. Or even if you have a better idea all together. I'm all ears. Thank you for your time
  2. Need help! I'm making a lounge chair with upholstered seat with chrome tanned leather I bought from Tandy as "deertan." It was soft and supple and dry, but the color was too light, so I applied neatsfoot oil to darken it, and I'm afraid I've ruined it. The darker, deeper color is perfect, but the leather became very tacky - dust and fibers would cling to it, and it wasn't pleasant to sit on. I tried applying a product called "Leather Top Coat." This made it only slightly less tacky, but unattractively cloudy, so I then put furniture wax on top. In for a penny, in for a pound. Now it doesn't look or feel good. I may ultimately have to throw it out and start over, but obviously hoping not to. I'm thinking I may hand wash with dish soap to remove as much of the oil and wax as possible. But I still ultimately need it a darker color, and to have a smooth finish. Suggestions?
  3. I'm fairly new to leathercraft and one topic that I still have so many questions on is dyeing and treating leather. There's just so much stuff out there and everyone does it all differently. Now, I understand that a lot of it comes to experience and mostly personal preference, but I'd love to hear some tips/ opinions here on a few matters: 1) I currently dye using Fiebing's Leather Dye. I diluted the stuff with spirits since I found that without diluting, the colors are too intense. Whatever type of brown I used would all turn out dark brown for example, and my blue was getting too close to black for my taste too. So, I diluted the stuff. Works kinda.. I know the alcohol makes leather stiff and I'm really considering switching to Fiebing's pro dye. I've heard that this doesn't make your leather stiff although I've also read otherwise. Anyway, in the case of leather dye.. what can I do to prevent this terrible stiffness? Should I do something after dyeing, before, or both? Tips and tricks are very much welcome. 2) I've read quite a lot on this forum about Neatsfoot oil. I've read people use it to treat leather before dyeing and maybe after, I'm not sure. However in many video's I've watched here and there I've never really seen anyone use neatsfoot oil. So I'm curious, does it really help to add this before dyeing, for example? I've owned a bottle once and all I can remember from it is that I thought it smelled really bad.. I really hope someone can share their tips/tricks/opinions/knowledge on these matters. Cheers, Iris
  4. So I've been making straps with names painted on them in acrylic paint. The straps are 10oz Herman oak leather. I started to use 100% neatfoot on the backside only to soften the leather up after dying about a month ago. Now I'm fining that some of them are having the paint on the frontside falling off. Even after I seal them with multiple acrylic sealers. I also am finding the dye is leeching off too. Any suggestions on what else to use to soften the leather up besides a oil bc I think that is the problem bc I have never had this problem before using the neatsfoot
  5. I have a lot of hand me down dyes and oil. There is one large rubbermaid container that is marked Neatsfoot oil but the oil inside is orange. Does neatsfoot discolor? Or is this likely some other oil like saddle or harness oil? With that said, what is the difference? Thanks for your input, Cheryl
  6. I have some questions regarding acrylic resolene and neatsfoot oil that I am hoping someone can answer: 1. How long will acrylic resolene last? If it is on a mask that is worn once or twice a year what is the expected life? 2. Will neatsfoot oil penetrate a piece that has been covered with acrylic resolene, let's say the piece has seen moderate use for a few to several years.
  7. Finally almost finished. Been a hellish year. I know the pics will not be oriented correctly. Didn't think about posting them when they were taken. But now I am using them. Still needs a little forming and some super sheen.
  8. Hello leatherworkers! This is my first post, thank you in advance for everything! I make a folding "camping" stool. I was originally buying oil tanned cow hides (5/6-7/8) and then strap cutting any which way to get as many straps as possible. I soon realized that some straps would be more stretchy than others, and some would be really way too stretchy. This I learned was a result of cutting the hide the wrong way at times, but also from using different parts of the hide that are maybe not suited for straps or belting. newbie realization! So.... This is where I am now. I am using a 7-8 oz italian shoulder in cognac purchased from Napa Hide House. I believe this is basically a veg-tan shoulder with a a thin burgundy wax finish. The leather is very stiff and lacks the character of the oil tanned leather I was using previously. So in an effort to add some character and some suppleness I asked the people at my local Tandy store in Hayward, Ca what might be the way to go. I thought some lexol or some nice conditioner would do it but they said this wouldn't really do much and recommended soaking in pure neatsfoot oil. So I did! I purchases a gallon of neatsfoot oil, prepared an oil bath and soaked my straps. After the first batch I did learn that for even penetration I would need to orbital sand the back of the leather with 60 grit to remove whatever was keeping the oil from penetrating. Ok! the leather looks good, nice and rich and dark, some nice character, supple.....but not ready to go. The leather is now quite oilly. After drying in the sun, even baking in the oven at 150 degrees, doing whatever I could think of to dry or remove excess oil, the leather is still "bleeding". It is my understanding that it is not good to be selling furniture with oily leather that will be touching clothing. Here is the Question! After soaking the shoulder in neatsfoot oil, how can I remove excess oil as well as seal the leather so that the oil does no stain clothing? Also, please let me know if you have any ideas concerning any part my process as I am a complete leather newbie just trying to figure things out Thank You!
  9. I died a veg-tanned leather strap dk. brown. After drying it's much stiffer than before. So... Before finishing with resolene do you think some neatsfoot oil would help? Thin layer of oil on the surface before the resolene?
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