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Found 22 results

  1. Hi. I have used resolene to resist antique paste and it seemed to work. Does it also resist oil dyes?
  2. Hello all! Newbie here, with a question! Nothing overly involved or complicated here. I want to do something fairly basic, I think. I want to make these boots: ...look like this: These are the same type of boot: a WW2-era paratrooper 'jump' boot. The company that makes the new boot is the same company that made the original (Corcoran) and they are identical. I've read that I can get the 'creased' look by binding up the boots and soaking them in cold water for a day. Any advice on the coloring? Should I be dyeing, or using oils or waxes to tan the leather? Tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
  3. Hi, I'm hoping to dye the yellow on these gloves black. They're deerskin leather so what method would you suggest to achieve this? Here's a link to the gloves: Thanks!
  4. Hope all is well with everyone! I figured I would upload a segment of the process in producing a couple of my product lines. (DNA Glove & Leather Six Pack) Creating a glove was the first leather project I started back in 2012. After spending over three years messing around with new product ideas concerning leather, producing a glove entirely by hand from scratch isn't as overwhelming as what it used to be. There's not that much info on this site about what exactly it takes to produce a glove. Hopefully one day baseball & softball gloves will have their own section on the site! Alec
  5. What sort of solvent can I use to clean leather dye, please? I'm using Fiebings oil dye, and up till now I've applied it with a cotton bud or a dauber, and just discarded them when I'd finished Today I used a small paintbrush, and tried to clean it with paraffin/kerosene, but it's not touching it
  6. victorl

    How To Get This Look?

    I'm trying to figure out how to get this light-colored stamping on dyed leather. Is the tooling being resisted before dyeing or is the dye carefully applied around the tooling? Or is it something much simpler than that? Sorry for the newbie question and any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Victor
  7. Nick Bowles

    Light Borders....?

    I grabbed this pic off the Internet because I'm intrigued with how he got the border of the stamp light and even the Seeder. I thought it may be stamped after dyeing to get to the leather under the dye, but I tried it and it was just a dark stamp. I'm fairly tips to replicate this effect?
  8. Which is better for repelling dye/stain? I need to paint some letters light gray and dye the leather black. I've been experimenting with the two, and am still working on it, but though I'd ask if anyone has any experience in this area. I had planned to dye first, but it distorts the paint color if I paint on dye/stain.
  9. Sorry I don't have better pics. Two pocket, creditcard sized, coin-purses. My dyeing technique is coming along.
  10. Hello, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as far as dyeing leather with indigo goes. I love the color it produces, and I am not a huge fan of using oil based dyes. I'd like to dye leather with actual indigo. Has anyone had any experience with this?
  11. gbsbullet

    Advice For Dyeing Rawhide

    I have been a visitor of this site for many years and can usually find the answer to my question without having to post (seems like everything I come across someone else has already figured out) but this one doesn't seem to have been answered before. My father bought a set of rawhide romal reins out of Mexico. The rawhide appears to have been bleached and he can't stand the color so he asked if I could figure something out. I have never worked with rawhide before so I'm unsure of the best way to go about this. I know a lot of people use coffee to dye their strands but this is done before the braiding begins. We both agreed that a similar color would be good if we could get it to take without destroying the reins. My concern is that if I soaked them in coffee the braid on either the body or the buttons would loosen or curl and the reins would be ruined? I also thought spraying or wiping them down might be safer and producer a good result? Lastly, I thought maybe I would dye some rawhide cream then work the conditioner into the reins (since the conditioner is supposed to be safe for finished products)? Has anyone ever tried something like this before that could lend some advice? If not maybe some insight as to what could be expected if I follow any of the outlined ideas above? Any advice would be very much appreciated. I have attached a few pictures of the reins so you can see what I'm working with. Thanks in advance.
  12. BrrlRacerJunkie

    Two Tone/color Leather & Tooling

    Good morning everyone! So I was wondering how you go about getting your tooled design one color and the rest of the leather another color without completely messing up your entire project? ha! I'm guessing one would use a resist of some sort and then do you just very carefuly dye around the tooled design? I really want to learn how to do this. I've researched the forums here and found examples people have posted out of their own work but never found a definitive explanation as to how this look is achieved. I have attached a picture of some spur straps a tack maker created that are the exact look I'm going for. They are an absolute beautiful piece of work and I would love to be able to achieve that two tone color effect in my own work. Thanks for your time everyone and hope you are all doing well!! I'm sure many of you are very busy getting Christmas orders together!!
  13. nargil

    What I Was Doing Wrong ?

    Hello guys, yesterday I finished tooling my first armguards and I decided to dye it. I was following video tutorial from youtube but it didn't went so well. So I want to ask what I was doing wrong and how should I improve it for next time. Btw I'm not from english speaking country so please apologize my english skills. Here is the way I was dyeing it : This is how it was looking before dyeing - I know it's not perfect but it was my first try. I've colored some lines : When I was done, I have applied fiebing's finish on that. Wait about 2 hours then applied Eco flo antiq gel. For applying antiq i used piece of cotton shirt and did in circular motions. It was my understanding that after buffing color with paper tissue color will stay in impressions and make the impression look darker. Well it didn't work as I presumed, some of impressions are darker but some not. Here is result : Can you please tell me some advice how to avoid such a things ? Thank you.
  14. Hi, I’m new here and have never worked on leather before but am interested learning some dyeing skills. I’m planning on buying some tan brogue boots and dying them in a chocolate and aubergine colour scheme (see pictures). Any recommendations on which dye products to use and how to do this would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  15. Hello all, I desperately need some expert help!! I make elastic Y-back suspenders in six different colors for children, and I'd like to change the leather patch on the back. Right now, I use a faux leather in three different colors and would like to transition to one color that I can have my company name embossed on. I'm extremely green when it comes to working with genuine leather. I've searched around locally and no one can really help me start from the beginning, which is to determine the best leather to use as a back patch for suspenders. The only recommendation I've been given is to maybe try a veg tan leather. My dilemma with that is this: 1) It's not dyed! Yes I do need a color that matches all six suspender colors, but I have no idea about dyeing leather. I can find a color I think might work on the internet, but it's just a picture. I still need to know what color dye to pick and how to dye it. Can someone please tell me if veg tan is really my only option to get the right color leather needed? I don't have the expertise to do what needs to be done with veg tan and no here seems to either or at least they don't want to help. Any recommendations on how to find more potential colors or someone to dye it for me because me dyeing it isn't an option? 2) As explained to me 2/3 oz veg tan is the lowest weight in that type but it still seems too thick for these suspenders. Would you agree? I need something that can be sewn on a sewing machine but not flimsy. 3) After I've found the right leather and color, I need it to be embossed. Can you please advise the best way to make this happen? People have mentioned laser engraving to me. I've also been told about stamps you can buy. Recommendations? 4) Lastly, I've been told that this is the process I need to follow to reach the end result of the actual back patch (assuming I go with veg tan) : once the leather is bought, have the shape clicked out, dye the shape, emboss/engrave the shape, then put a finish on it. Would you agree? Is the process pretty much the same if it's already dyed (click, emboss, finish)? As a side note, I had a die of the shape professionally made, but I do not have a clicker press. It would be optimal if I can find an appropriate weight leather for suspenders that is already dyed to the right color and would emboss well. Please help!!! Thank you! C Pack
  16. So I got a problem I´d really like to fix. As I made several sword sheath (Larp) and similar for customers so far (and will do more in the future), I usually wet mold them around a wooden form before stitching, sometimes I add some tooling and sometimes I treat them with hot water to get the a little stiffer. My usually sequence for doing this was more or less this one: - tooling (wet) - molding (wet) - stitching - dyeing - heat treatment/boiling (wet) - applying finish and stuff. So the main problems I got are: 1) When I dye the piece, the colour becomes uneven as some ares are compressed more than others through the process of molding. Maybe it´s usefull to add that I use a sponge for the dye-job, when the colours should be lighter, I wrap some cloth around it so there´ll be less colour per layer) -> My solution would be to dye it before molding, as it´s easier to apply evenly and the fibres are mor even, too. The reason of doing it afterwards was, that the dye stiffens the leather a little bit, but I think an even colour has a higher priority. 2) The main issue is, that the tooling really looses definition. After tooling I case it two more times (molding and "boiling") so it evens out a bit once and again. Besides for the heat treatment I use water hot at about 75 to max. 90 °C (~167 - 194 Fahrenheit) (I use a boiler and a thermometer, so I never get the same temperature). For the process I boil the water and pour it over the stitched sheath on the form, so even if I use 90°C, the leather wouldn´t reach that temperature completeley and won´t get that brittle. But with this molding process, the top grain starts to shrink and every cut from the swivelknife opens up a lot while the stamping starts to fade away... For that problem I got no solution right now and I can´t figure out how to do it right. I think there are some liquids out there used for stiffening leather instead of boiling it, but I don´t know how that will affect the dyejob or the finishing process.... I think it might be an idea to mold the sheath right after tooling to get one casing step out of the line, but then I´d have to case, tool and mold in one step.... Any ideas, tips or solutions to this one?
  17. Hi there, I am new to the forum and looking for some expert advice! I am currently working on a couple of little veg tan cases and would like to experiment with dyeing them pastel colours like pinks, blues, greens etc. I have seen this done and know it is possible but not sure where to source the dye (I am in the UK). Would rather not have to mix colours Any help greatly appreciated!
  18. Basillex

    Best Way To Dye Kangaroo Lace

    Hi all! I've just received 3 natural veg tan kangaroo hides (for the first time!) and I plan to cut the lace from it and use it for braiding. The question is, what would be the best way to go about dyeing/coloring the lace? So far I haven't found anything posted that would be specifically related to this, and I apologize if I have missed it and might be duplicating some other thread. I don't like the idea of coloring the hide first and then cutting the lace. I wan't to have the option of different colors from one hide. I also wonder if the color would actually penetrate deep enough. If not, the edge/bevels might remain "natural". So far (using other types of leather to learn the basics) I've cut it with the lace cutter. Then I stretched it and tied it's beginning to a cable (like a clothes line which is streched under the ceiling of my work room) and then used a piece of wool or sponge soaked in color which I wrapped around the start of the lace, and just rubbed it / dragged it through to the end by pulling on the dyed part. If it was too long and might touch the floor, I simply tossed the colored part over the same cable. After the dye was dry/set, I applied the finish (Satin sheene) in the same manner. After that I split and bevelled it. In this particular case do not plan to split it (before or afterwards), as the hides already seem to have been thinned down to an even thickness. I wonder how the rest of you do it? Is there a simpler or more effective way? It is just too expensive not to ask and see what the best practices might be. I am also wondering, if It could be done by simply dragging the lace through a cup filled with color. I could hold the string down at the bottom with a stick of some sort, and perhaps have some sponge (in a function of a wiper) on the exit part of the cup (so that I don't waste too much color and too prevent uneven blotches after it dries). I believe that stretching should be done with saddle soap (I haven't done it with other types of skins, but I think I should do it with kangaroo). And I also believe that stretching should be done before coloring, or the color might end up being uneven (lighter in parts where it stretches more). Would saddle soap affect the dyeing? Can I stretch without it and achieve the same result? Thank you for all your thoughts!
  19. Hi All, Quick question about the process of dyeing and finishing when stitching a project by hand. I am working on my first sheath and will also be hand stitching for the first time. In general, should I start stitching with the leather already dyed and finished? Should I be stitching first and dyeing and finishing later on? Should I wait to finish the piece after dying and sewing it together in order let the acrylic finish protect the thread and holes from the awl? I'm not sure what the proper method should be for this and any guidance would be most appreciated.
  20. Hi, I have tried to master the techniques of the dyeing and paint job in the photo attached. I believe that the green-tooling coloring is made by first applying a light layer of green dye in the tooling and then more green to the raised areas by a "dry-brush"-technique. I can get it to work, but I am not able to get the light green color somehow? The gold paint on the border is troubling me. I tooled it and then I blocked the raised areas with resolene (5 coats!). The gold paint stayed in the impressions after I wiped it with a clean cloth, but unfortunately some gold "glimmer" remains in the raised areas. I tried with both cheap and expensive gold paint, and I tried with a dry and a wet cloth. What am I doing wrong? One thing that I am totally at a loss, is the green "marvel"-like effect. Do anyone know how that is made?
  21. RNicholas

    Help With Dyeing

    Hi all! Second post here. I recently ordered a 6-7oz tooling shoulder from Tandy Leather Factory. The quality is fine, not amazing, but fine for what I'm doing with it. However, I wanted to see how some black dye would look on it so I cut some scrap off of it and tried to dye it (Gloves, wool dauber) and I found that the dye mostly just pooled on the surface of the grain and barely absorbed in. I could get it fairly well in after MANY coats, but I'm wondering why this is happening? It DOES look quite smooth, but is that it? I tried it out with an old round I had and the scrap side by side and the round absorbed the dye straight away but the newer shoulder just had dye sitting on top... Any advice? Will I need to sand it down or something? Concerned, R.
  22. I would like to get an airbrush, but I don't know a lot (or, well, anything) about airbrushing and I don't want to buy something that won't end up suiting my needs. Is it better to buy an all in one 'airbrush kit' complete with compressor, or is it better to buy things separate? What I'd like to do with it is apply all-over dyes and finishes as well as experiment with different techniques, like doing a gradient colour (example fading from red to black) - what kind of brushes do I need? Is it possible to get a decent machine (including compressor) for around $100-150, max $200? This is one that I'm possibly looking at - - does anyone have experience with this brand?