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Found 24 results

  1. Hi There I am relatively new to rawhide and kangaroo but have been braiding paracord and making other leather items for a few years now, I am based between New Zealand and Australia and am having trouble finding a leather cutter/ beveler that will be suitable for rawhide mainly. I would appreciate any recommendations. I would prefer not to buy from the US if possible because the postage rates to here are horrendous Thanks in advance
  2. Hi There I am relatively new to rawhide and kangaroo but have been braiding paracord and making other leather items for a few years now, I am based between New Zealand and Australia and am having trouble finding a leather cutter/ beveler that will be suitable for rawhide mainly. I would appreciate any recommendations. I would prefer not to buy from the US if possible because the postage rates to here are horrendous Thanks in advance
  3. Hi There, im rather new to rawhide braiding and looking to buy a string cutter/beveler. But am not having a lot of luck finding one in New Zealand / Australia, would any one be able to point me in the right direction for this? Thanks in advance
  4. I had a mouse get into the tack room. It chewed the top of the cantle on an old saddle. The cantle is rawhide and now there is a hole down to the tree. Any suggestions on how to fix a hole in rawhide?
  5. I recently made this rawhide sheath for an antler-handled knife I own. Underneath is 8-9oz veg tanned leather, and it's wrapped with cow rawhide. I applied leather dye to the rawhide, and finished it with a light coat of polyurethane. This was a first for me, and I'm pleased with the result.
  6. entiendo

    Using rawhide for the first time

    Hi everyone. I have been braiding for several years now and I decided to take the plunge into a little bit of rawhide work. I want to make a bosal but I only know how to do roo and I couldn't find anyone to make a rawhide core. I bought some rawhide, managed to get it soft, I even managed to spilt a 1/2" piece with my hand held splitter. Whe I started citing it down into 1/8" inches it did not go so well, but I got a couple of 1/8" strands I could bevel. I went to bevel with 0 success. No beveled pieces oh well. Any advice would be appreciated. I knew rawhide wasn't easy but goodness....I had no idea, that is some tough stuff. I am thinking my whimpy roo tools will not be adequate. itt
  7. AppaloosaBeadsLeather

    Rawhide Panniers

    Does anyone have any experience in making a set of rawhide panniers for packing? Specifically looking for instructions including measurements and the amount of material I actually need. Thanks!
  8. I've begun making holsters and gun leather on a hobby / someday-business basis. It's gone well and I've started making holsters for friends and others. I'm getting ready to start my first IWB holster, and wanted some input on the best way to reinforce the top strap so as to make it stay open for re-holstering. Does a rawhide insert work well, or will I need to get spring steel or some other insert? I've heard some people use pallet banding, but does that really retain the shape well enough long term?
  9. Okay, my gut says there's a short two-letter answer to this, but I can't think of why it wouldn't at least be possible, so here goes: Would it be possible to tan rawhide in veg/bark solution? If not, why not?
  10. A rather urgent question, as I have a bag of tallow in my refrigerator and need to use it before it goes bad (plus there is limited space for food, since the butcher was very generous). Picked up an older braided rawhide riata. The rawhide looks good except for being dry and stiff rfrom being stored in an attic. Wetting it and stretching eliminated the kinks that it had had, but it only throws a good loop when slightly damp. Otherwise it is too stiff. Can't get professional rawhide cream here and everything mentions tallow, so we got a butcher to save tallow for us and picked it up today (slaughtered yesterday). Those of you who use tallow for rawhide, do you use it raw or must it be cooked somehow first??
  11. oobuckshotz

    Pre Cut Rawhide Lace

    honestly has anyone used the precut lace from Centralia or ebay? i know making my own is best but wondering if anybody has been able to use these...was thinking getting either the 1/4" and splitting it down to a 1/8 string or the 1/2 inch and maybe be able to get 3 1/8 strings....also thought about buying there rounds.... also thought about the 1/2 watter buffalo as they said it is quite thick then i know i could split its thickness down to that of what i need and not worry about it being to thin to split....but idk how it strethes....there is also horse anyone used that lace for buttons? Thanks, Mac
  12. oobuckshotz

    New To Forum Intro, And ?

    Hello, Im Mac recently ive been renewing my interest in attempting to make some plaited rawhide objects, got some cow rawhide made up and have been wrking on dehairing it. so while im casing a smallish circle to cut into string, figured id introduce my self and slip a couple questions out there too... ive read both "braiding rawhide horse tack and a good portion of bruce grants book...and spent the last week going threw old post on here and while it has answered alot of questions it has created some new ones as well either from contradictory statements or etc... sooo when plaiting rawhide hair side out or in? ive heard it both ways does, is it different for reatas than for bosals, reins, hobbles etc? once i have my initial rough string cut from the hide, the "BRHT" book says to stretch the string, then jumps into making string cutters etc then comes back to string, does the string "NEED" to be stretched and left to dry and cased again or can if at the right temper it go straight to final sizing and beveling...? the book says some folk like to omit the stretching leaving to dry and then re casing as it "takes the life" out of it... well thanks hope u all will be able to help with these and the other questions ill be posting in the near future! Mac couple practice pieces to get the plaiting and knot wrk rolling in my head, yea plait got a weee bit twisted on this "RAIN DAY" bosalita but eh is only paracord... double loop lace stitched the nose button cause plaiting it was just WAY to bulky for a bosalita and the plain spiral wrap was just to Plain looking.... this was 3rd piece i made of paracord....6 plait cheeks over 3/16' rope rolled in athletic tape has a surprising li good feel to it considering the materials... 8 plait hobbles 6x7 TH made into pineapple knots... 2nd piece i made... plait came out way more straight on this bosalita...1st piece ive made
  13. Louisianawhipmaker

    Opinions On Cutting Rawhide

    This past weekend I made some raw hide using KAWs method for dehairing(it worked pretty good by the way) thanks for that KAW, any way I am now ready to cut it into strings for several different projects, maybe royal reins, bosal, and buttons and I am curious of others opinion on how to cut the hide. It seems like if I take my strap cutter and cut around the hide I would have very little waste, vs cutting out rounds then cutting string. I have even seen where some just cut the hide in straps length ways. Are certain parts better for certain items, I know when making a saddle, saddle makers like certain parts of the hide for different pieces of the saddle. I'm pretty green to this but seems as if it would apply to braiding as well.
  14. gbsbullet

    Advice For Dyeing Rawhide

    I have been a visitor of this site for many years and can usually find the answer to my question without having to post (seems like everything I come across someone else has already figured out) but this one doesn't seem to have been answered before. My father bought a set of rawhide romal reins out of Mexico. The rawhide appears to have been bleached and he can't stand the color so he asked if I could figure something out. I have never worked with rawhide before so I'm unsure of the best way to go about this. I know a lot of people use coffee to dye their strands but this is done before the braiding begins. We both agreed that a similar color would be good if we could get it to take without destroying the reins. My concern is that if I soaked them in coffee the braid on either the body or the buttons would loosen or curl and the reins would be ruined? I also thought spraying or wiping them down might be safer and producer a good result? Lastly, I thought maybe I would dye some rawhide cream then work the conditioner into the reins (since the conditioner is supposed to be safe for finished products)? Has anyone ever tried something like this before that could lend some advice? If not maybe some insight as to what could be expected if I follow any of the outlined ideas above? Any advice would be very much appreciated. I have attached a few pictures of the reins so you can see what I'm working with. Thanks in advance.
  15. I am having a hard time deciding on what hammer to buy. In the past I have used a heavy rubber mallet for my general stamping. The 'bounce' didn't bother me. Since then I've recently been diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis and the weight of it alone tends to kill my hand pretty quickly. I've tried the yellow polymer hammer and found it extremely light and my scrawny arms didn't provide any help. The rawhide one was somewhat in that same catagory..and since I am trying to buy an entire shops worth of tools, i would rather not be spending that kind of money on a rawhide or maul. The last thing i used was a newer and smaller/lightweight rubber mallet which seemed to work ok...only because the big one was getting old and falling apart lol. This is the last thing on my list I need to open my shop back up (*crosses fingers*). What do you use or recommend? I was planning on just getting a 16oz rubber mallet off ebay...with a steel handle (instead of wooden). I have no idea if the 16oz is the same as what i had before or not. Thanks
  16. WinterBear

    Rawhide Drums

    From the album: WinterBear's Stuff

    20-inch drum of buffalo rawhide on laminated maple hoop frame, 12-inch drum of elk rawhide on deeper laminated maple hoop frame, and 15-inch drum of elk rawhide on a 16-sided cedar frame.

    © (c) WinterBear 2014

  17. I'm making a holster for a coworker that has a rawhide stiffener wrapped around the cylinder. How should that be installed in the holster? I'm thinking of sandwiching it between a lining leather and the main holster leather, contact cementing it in place.
  18. Hi I have recently brought back from Zambia an African Drum. The drum was made using traditional methods by a villager using untreated wood for the drum itself (i helped cut down the tree) and rawhide for the drumskin. The wood didn't have time to properly dry before i needed to fly back to Australia, thus it was still green with heaps of moisture. during both the flight home and the Australian customs required 4week quarantine period, a considerable amount of mold has grown on both the wood and the rawhide. The wood is of course not the topic for this forum but rather the rawhide skin. Mold is on both the outside and the inside (this the most difficult to get at by hand). I have cleaned the rawhide mold off the outside surface and attempted to get at the inside surface. i used water and a dishwashing scrubber to clean the rawhide. i have left the drum in the sun for days to attempt to dry it out. My problem and question is how can i better clean the skin and is there a way to prominently stop mold from growing. i thought about pouring a bleach solution into the inside of the drum to kill the mold on the wood. however, i do not know how that will affect the rawhide skin (as well as the wood for that matter). i will upload some pictures so you all can get a better feel for the matter.
  19. I have a new old stock Osbourne splitter for sale. I bought it thinking I would be using it more and havent. It is brand new, never been mounted, never seen leather and comes in the original box with original blade which is VERY sharp. It sat in a hardware that was closed in the 60s along with their other stock. This is literally brand new. Asking 500$ and would consider some trading with it. Thanks for looking Romey
  20. Tim George of Hamley & Co. in Pendleton, OR is famous for his rawhide braiding. On a slow evening the other night I found a couple of videos on Youtube showing him in action (let's say slow action) cutting strings, etc. He's one of the best full time braiders. If you do a search on Youtube you'll see he's featured in about five videos. Cheers!
  21. My husband recently got his hands on a two strand twisted reata. Well, most of it is two strand twisted, but a short section (about a meter or so) up to the honda switches over to a 4 strand braid. We're in Denmark, so who knows where it comes from and how it got over here. The person we got it from got it from someone else. The person we got it from was a bit of an idiot and treated the whole thing with leather oil! ARGH. So far my husband has cleaned it thoroughly with glycerin and tried stretching it for a while like he's used to with rope lassos. But despite his stretching, it still seems to "remember" a lot of the twist from having been stored a really long time. So when he tries to make a loop to throw, the loop shows multiple twists and he can barely catch a post (this is not a problem with his usual lasso). So is there anything he can do to make this thing usable again or do we have to resign ourselves to having it as nothing but a wall hanging? I would really appreciate any advice you can give.
  22. I have a problem when doing rawhide wrapped and laced stirrups with the nuts loosening. This happened to me once and I remade a pair but again had problems with the drying rates of the rawhide and the securing of the nuts for the bolts. I've read where these nuts can be set by preening, but then I"m not sure how to handle hammering one side, with the other side laced up and avoid cutting the lace on the one side or both. Also, sorry to go "USA" snob, but these Chinese-steel bolts are not very, um, good. Thank you all for suggestions.
  23. Hi, all. I have a Hansen string cutter and also a rounder. They are the original style Frank made, and have a base with drilled holes which you then bolt down onto...whatever...I bolted them onto a board and then would clamp the whole unit to a work table. (I see that the new ones have a built-in clamp). It also has the original style of locknuts (not the wingnuts). For me personally, I think the old style is much superior because you can REALLY tighten it down rather than just finger-tighten, but that's just my preference. It was used very gently, on goathide only, for 2 years and then has been carefully stored ever since. It has a lovely patina. (I think!) As you all probably know you can get a new splitter off the Hansen website for $445 including shipping, and the rounder for $235 including shipping, so that's $680 for both. I'll sell my set for $440 including shipping if you live in CA, NV, OR or AZ, and $450 if you live elsewhere. Thanks for your interest. The best way to reach my is by direct email which is westernartist@gmail.com and my name is Jeanne Miller.
  24. I am looking for any help or advice while braiding my first bosal? I have time now and want to start my colt in 8 months in the bosal. I would appreciate any and all help and advice? Thanks!