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I work with Scouts mostly on small projects. I have at most 4 hours to complete all the requirements for the Leatherwork Merit badge. The 1st hour or so is discussions on various related topics and tool demonstrations. So 3 hours is the time they have to complete their projects. Including hand sewing. What can I do to really speed up the drying time between tooling then dying then applying top coat then sewing. There is definitely not enough time to allow the proper time for each of these steps. I normally use Saddle Lac because it dries super fast but if I teach in California I'm not sure I can use it since it's not available for sale there. I've been using the Tandy Professional dyes instead of the All-in-One type of finishes because of the color options. I live in Las Vegas and can leave it in the sun after each step. But there are issues if the weather isn't cooperating, especially if it's windy, and I use fans for indoor classes. I'm wondering about other options available no matter how crazy. Here are some ideas I'm spitballing: Microwave Convection oven Food dehydrator Warming mats like the kind used when starting seeds in the winter Heat lamps or heat emitters like the ones used for reptiles Build something that uses a combination of 2 or more of the above. I don't have any idea how the leather would react to any of the above ideas. We don't want to end up with leather that gets too hard or curls too much I'd like to get you opinions along with any additional ideas you have. Thanks, Dale
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I haven't finished anything to show off lately so I thought I'd brag on a few new tools I got from Bruce Johnson Leather Tools. These were always at the lower priority end of my tool buying obsession until I discovered on Facebook that Bruce Johnson is now a dealer for CS Osborne. Concho cutters that actually cut, and dividers I can set and lock. Love 'em! If you need something, and need it quick, check out Bruce's operation at http://www.BruceJohnsonLeather.com
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- dividers
- brucejohnsonleather
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The machine is practically new . It was briefly used to sew leather pillows and it is in excellent condition. It is an industrial machine suitable for leather, synthetics and heavy upholstery fabric. Included is the original Seiko manual and complete set of accessories including bobbins, needles, oil, screw driver set, set of wrenches, zipper, welting and presser feet. The Family Electric Servo Motor model FESM 550-s, 0-3450 RPM, 110V, 550W installation and operation instructions included. The table with a two spool thread holder is used and in good condition. $1475 shipping not included
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- electric servo motor 110v 550
- leather
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Large collection of aluminum dummy guns for sale. Used for holster making, nothing wrong with them just no longer use them. 238 aluminum, 14 plastic semi-auto 130 magazines $15,500 plus shipping OBO
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Has anyone shopped at https://buyleatheronline.com/en/ ? Any feedback in terms of the quality? Their prices seem to be very interesting. And given where I am, online is pretty much the only choice.
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Hello to the lovely leatherwork community, I joined the forum as my father in law has passed away and I have so many sewing machines machines, presses, leather goods, many of the items I am finding which I have no idea what they are! lol I have about 12 sewing machines, enough shoe lasts, leather, buckles, rivets, hand tools, punch tools and various other items to last a lifetime. The shoe shop was around for 100 years and I know a couple of the machines are 1850's just from a little google search. I am hoping that people will share their knowledge with me so I can make sure the items are given a new home and preserved. Thank you for reading this post.
- 19 replies
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- leather
- machines advice
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They're considered "unsalable" and not carried by most leather suppliers (and for good reason), but are the almost point-for-point historical equivalent once a little processing is done for something I need. Any ideas? (Tannery guys? If you're seeing this, I'm serious and I know what I'm asking for.) (Cannot use wet-blue, sorry)
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Some of the things that I worked on. The corset is actually a pencil holder. I got that pattern from Karlova designs. The hat pattern is from Diesel Punk
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I am going to begin to start making western chaps. Does anyone know what type of tanning process the ranchers used in the 18th century. I am more interested in natural tanning techniques.
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Hi everyone. I tooled a leather coaster (constructive critique welcomed) and someone wants to order some. I know it’s an age old question, but what do you guys charge for tooled coasters like these? thanks
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What are the important factors to consider when shopping for leather clothing in any season.
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- leather clothing
- leather store
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I am very new to leather working. I am starting off with making bronc halters, earrings, hat patches and similar western style accessories. I have goals to make western horse tack in the future when I have more experience. My question is what is the best sewing machine for these types of items that is simple enough for a newbie to use? I have tried reading through the forums but there’s so much information it’s overwhelming. Would it be better to hand sew them for now? I apologize if these questions have already been answered on here this is my first post and still learning how to use this site. Thanks in advance. Also I am located in the United States.
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- bronc halter
- newbie
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Good day, I'm Chuck and I operate as Dark Angel Leatherworks. A dual US Canadian citizen, my dad having been born in Montreal. We operate out of Cardinal Ontario and Ogdensburg NY. A short 1 mile bridge over the mighty St. Lawrence river separates my shops. As a younger man I was in the US Coast Guard. An old chief boatswain showed me some basic nautical leather skills and the love affair was born. Many years passes until I could seriously pursue my love. I look forward to making new friends and sharing skills.
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I'm just about to get my leather for the yokes and back belt on my chaps and I'm not quite sure how thick the leather should be. I was thinking 3.5-4mm as the body of the chaps are 1.6-2.0mm, but let me know what y'all think Also, if you have any suggestions on a color that would complement this. Let me know.
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Should one side of a traditional pair of step in shotgun chaps be slanted down rather than just being straight on both sides?
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- shotgun chaps
- patern
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Recently I was lucky enough to have my Small business "Camp Leather Goods" featured in our local magazine "South Sound Business" Come check out the article and see what 24 Hours as a leather crafter looks like for me. 24 Hours: Caleb Arthur | South Sound Magazine For anyone out there looking to expand your reach, I would highly encourage you to reach out to your local paper, magazines, and tell them your story. We all have a unique story in how we came about mastering our craft, go share it with the world!!
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- south sound
- leather crafter
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I don't know much about leather types/names. I wonder what type leather is mentioned in the images below and if possible, can you suggest a site where I can buy it? Have a nice day.
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Hey guys and gals. I havent posted any projects lately mainly cause been doing alot more basic items thats not as fun to look at and talk about. But i got a job for colt python pancake holster. And the guy has seen alot of my wilder pieces and ask if i could do a python on the holster. I said yes sir and the fun started. Hope yall enjoy. I know im having fun building it. Ill post some more pics once further along.
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Hi everyone! First time visiting Leatherworker.net, so please bear with me if my post is in the wrong thread, or if my problem is not suitablefor this site. I'm at my wits end here, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on whats going on here: I decided to try to dye a pair of painted whole cut oxfords, in an attempt to make them darker. The leather is originally painted, medium brown. I'm dying them with a very dark brown, Saphir Teinture franscaise. (I cleaned the leather with Saphir Renomat before applying the dye). After applying dye in three rounds, the leather (surprisingly) seems to take the dye well, darkening the color evenly. But on both shoes there is an area of about 1x2 inches that doesn't seem to take the dye. This area remains the original color (but with a super matte surface). When applying dye to the area the leather immediatly absorbes the dye and dries up. On the rest of the leather the dye takes 5-10 minutes to dry/absorbe. I've tried dying the problem area with additional two rounds of dye, but it just keeps absorbing it immediatly, without any change in color. What's going on here, and what can I so to solve this? Any tips or thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hello everyone, new member here I'm on the hunt for some lovely dyed-through veg tan leather. I make dog accessories and bags too, so I need something fairly thick. does anyone have their go-to shop for veg tan? it seems to be trickier than I thought it would be.. unless im searching in the wrong area of the internet! TIA pic for attention..
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This was my first real leather project and the one that got me so excited to do leatherwork. I made this bag for my sister’s Birthday. She has yet to receive it. It is an original design, something simple, no hardware, but relatively tough. I made this bag on my Singer 128 using #69 bonded nylon black thread and a size 18 leather needle. There are a lot of firsts in this bag. First bag! First design! First sewing a round item! First time finishing it up with hand stitching! First time poking my thumb with the hand stitching needle! Only third sewing project altogether. I know it’s not “perfect”, but IMHO, it’s not bad!
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Hi everyone! This is the quick Sheath I made with my new Leatherwork. Sorry about the video being sideways, I am going to try and fix that! My first sheath Chip from CHIPPPER BAGS
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I made these two folios not so long ago. They have been very nice to have about and are strong and protective. The larger one is for an A4 document folder, the smaller one is for an A5 visual diary. They were both made for personal use in a creative storm. Veg tan leather, stained with an 'antique' oil then kangaroo lacing edges using a round braid. Both were then pyrographed and painted with iridescent paint. This paint is super fun. Changes in appearance depending on the direction of the light source.
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Hello, I am starting to cover the box in goat leather, but after I cut out one of the sides of leather and start to skive down the edges, it stretches the leather and then I have to cut it down again and re-skive it.
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Here are a few custom designs that I made to cut the tip/ends of leather belt straps.