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Found 4 results

  1. Hi Everyone, not long ago I got a sample of Alan Sully goat leather, one in 3 ounce and one and 2 1/2 ounce. I was thinking I’d like to make a medium sized bag with these using reinforcement and was thinking of using Salpa. I noticed that Salpa comes in several different thicknesses including 0.5, 0.6, 0.8 mm. Does anybody have any suggestions on what thickness to use? I was thinking of getting some 0.6 mm but I wasn’t sure if this would provide enough rigidity to the bag. I hesitate with 0.8 because I don’t want it to be really thick in the end. If anybody has any suggestions and experience working with these products I would love to hear your feedback. Thank you!
  2. Hi everyone! I think I may have worked myself into a corner and now I'm stuck in paralysis by analysis. I'm making a satchel from Hermann Oak 1881 and while the color and feel are beautiful, the leather behaves like a chrome tan in that it has a soft temper. So: being one who learns as they go, I decided to line it with more of the same leather. It wasn't looking like the bag would stand on its own, so I got some 1mm reinforcement from RM Leather Supply, laminated the front, back, and sides, but left the flap/cover unglued for now. Here's where I am stuck: do I commit and fully laminate the entire bag? Or save on materials and weight by only laminating the front, back, and sides? I currently have it cut to support full lamination, but I worry the bag will be too stiff in all the wrong places. However, if I cut out the bag reinforcement, then I can't go back. What would you recommend? The satchel is 16" x 10" x 5" (ish). Maybe a super soft/floppy lid is okay?? Thanks in advance!
  3. I'm designing a large (around 40 by 30 by 7 cm) gusset bag from 2 mm vegetable tanned leather. I'm using a three-piece gusset design for added rigidity. I know from experience that large bags like these will eventually start to become rounded at the top as the bag starts to form around your body.I would like to prevent this as much as possible, keeping the box-like form as long as possible. The best solution I have thought of thus far is making the lid a separate piece and hiding a slat of 2 mm PP sheet inside the joint between the back piece and the lid. I wish I had some wooden blinds, I could steal one of the slats and use that. I also considered adding a small formed pocket on the inside, but this would make the narrow bag less practical. Any thoughs or recommendations?
  4. So I've been bitten by the leather bug pretty bad, and I really enjoyed making my first two gunbelts. With that in mind, I was thinking about different ways to improve on them in terms of ruggedness. I know of a manufacturer that reinforces their belts with Kydex, but I think that would be too stiff and uncomfortable. Another company uses three layers of leather, but in a cost standpoint, that's a bit too expensive for me (though it is a good idea). With all that in mind, I have been thinking about a potential reinforcement material on and off, and than it hit me..why not use Tyvek? Ultra thin, near bullet proof, and if glued and stitched between a two-layer belt, would perhaps be just the right amount of reinforcement to help the belt keep its shape. I can't see Tyvek adding any meaningful amount of stiffness or loss of flexibility, so what do you guys think? To be honest, I was a bit hesitant at first about posting my idea because I was thinking that I could make it something like a "trademark" feature that I use in my belts, but what the heck, if y'all can benefit from it, than I'm happy to help! Alamo
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