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DJole

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About DJole

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Fiddles, books, big trees, leather, swords, and keeping the house intact.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Dark Age and Medieval European inspired designs, pouches and boxes
  • Interested in learning about
    shoe-making, tooling, hand stitching
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    GoogleFu

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  1. I took a look at the Amazon kit you mentioned, and it appears that you have a set of diamond chisels, which make a diamond shaped hole in the leather. Pricking irons make an angled slit in the leather, rather than a hole. Pricking irons are meant to MARK the holes that you then pierce with a stitching awl. That's the traditional standard, and many people aspire to that. But the diamond chisels are much more forgiving, and easier to make good stitching lines with (since getting straight lines with the awl takes a lot of consistent practice). The stitching chisels should be strong enough to drive through two pieces of leather of the thickness you are using. If they are bending, then they are made of bad metal, or you're driving them into something hard. Good advice given above, to change the thing you're using underneath the leather when making the stitching lines. And if they keep bending, then the tools are bad, and you should look into replacements. I second the advice on using the wing dividers to make a stitching line (or a light, shallow stitching "groove"). I found that I can get a much better line with the wing dividers than with the groover I bought years ago. The groover sits alone, unused for a few years now. For choosing thread: take a look at some YouTube videos to help you match the thread (which will involve choosing the right size of needle and the size of stitching/pricking iron also) to the project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc_4cZp9JDs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYT9Rc2YRAk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BwpAkQlgg All that being said, that's pretty good work, and you've learned a lot! Keep it up!
  2. You may not need specific brand name tools for much of your work when starting out (except for specialty things like tooling and stamping). Perhaps Ian Atkinson can help steer you in a useful direction. His YouTube channel has some excellent videos for beginners discussing what tools they actually need, most of which don't need to come from a leather supply store. Here is a partial playlist to his videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvoKYeh7ahyGB-numgnO3WxOVi3Sgkyzg
  3. I use a leather "canister" (like a map tube) to store my skiver and Xacto knives in. Keeps the sharp side away from my fingers!
  4. I only have the TF Barge cement, like you. I've never used the "real" stuff. Before I picked it up, I used various white glues (like Tandy's EcoWeld), but I needed something stronger for other projects. I'll be interested to see comparisons.
  5. You can actually stamp it after dying, as long as you haven't added any other chemical (like Resolene, for example, or other protective finishes.) What you should do first, however, is do a test run on a scrap piece of leather from the same hide: dye it, and then try casing it and stamping it. Then take another piece, stamp it and then dye it. If you're okay with the first round, then you're good to go. If you really prefer the second round, then you know what to do next time! Usually the stamping goes first because it affects the leather surface, and dye will react differently to those changes.
  6. Out on the Kenai you probably don't have a leather supply store nearby, but probably a few bears around. Welcome to the forum!
  7. What an absolute beast of a machine! Good to see it slowly coming back to life.
  8. Welcome to the forum! It's a great place full of helpful people and a goldmine of information. I did a quick Google search to find out what this journal looks like: Diary as it looks in the TV program So, now for some more questions: It doesn't appear that the lines are cut in and then tooled with a beveler, although this could be done. It appears that they are deeply embossed, with a rigid, rounded-end tool. It's even possible to make that design by forming the thin leather over shapes (like this person did).
  9. How to finish edges, and how to do traditional stitching. There was no Internet when I wanted to learn all this in the mid 80s to mid 90s. I suppose I could have asked that Tandy store less than 1/4 mile away from me for instruction, or something, but it seemed like everything was Western themed, and that's not my interest.
  10. I'm looking at edge waxes, like Columbus brand, but I can't find any instructions on how they are applied: heated and applied as liquid? rubbed on like a burnisher?
  11. DJole

    Rally Fobs

    Those are lovely! Nice colors, smooth and clean design.
  12. Any experience with the Felsted skiver? Or is that strictly limited to bookbinding leathers?
  13. Well, you probably got yours in an alternate universe or something! ;-)
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