DJole

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About DJole

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 02/13/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Fiddles, books, big trees, leather, swords, and keeping the house intact.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Dark Age and Medieval European inspired designs, pouches and boxes
  • Interested in learning about
    shoe-making, tooling, hand stitching

Recent Profile Visitors

7,102 profile views
  1. DJole

    Leatherman Case

    A lovely home for a great tool to have on you! That is some excellent, deep basket weave there.
  2. DJole

    Stitching Horse Plans

    I have these plans saved on my computer: Stitching Horse Plan.pdf
  3. DJole

    Dice cups

    I love that eyeball! You really knocked that one out of the park.
  4. DJole

    I made a braided shopper bag

    You always do lovely work, with careful attention to detail! That's a nice design, too. Good clean lines with some subtle accents. I think attaching the cloth liner to a leather band, and then attaching that to the bag itself, is a great solution to the problem of how to get that liner to fit. That's a much simpler solution than the one I decided on the last time I made a bag! I wish I had known of your shop when I was in Korea a couple years ago; we were staying in Itaewon just below the Grand Hyatt hotel, not far from your shop!
  5. Welcome to the forum! Can you supply an image of the kind of Turk's head you are trying to do? (They come in different sizes)
  6. DJole

    Finished Sheath for Customer!

    A nice design, with those lovely curves and good coloring. Those are small stitches! What's the Stitch per inch size here, and what thread size/type?
  7. DJole

    Dice cups

    Nice work! Custom dice cups rock the gaming tables... I did something similar some years back, in a larger size, and using a (not very skillful) butt stitch: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/TomsTower/TomDragon.htm
  8. So you want the color to stay in the "valleys" of the stamping and the "peaks" to be a natural tone? I believe the way to do this is to learn how to carefully wipe with a flat item, one that will remain stiff and not conform to the patterns and dip down into the valleys. Now, that's the theory -- hopefully somebody who has actually done this (which I vaguely remember reading about). I bet this will require practicing on scrap pieces with this basket weave pattern.
  9. DJole

    Case for Button Accordion / Melodeon

    A nice case! The instrument should be proud to live in a case like that.
  10. DJole

    Quality wallet fabricator wanted in UK

    Maybe this fellow who posted here back in December can be your new hire: Posted December 10, 2018 I’m a leatherworker, i’m living in Viet Nam I have 4 years experience I can do any step for high quality product, design, handcutting, carving, dyeing, stitching.... I’m looking for job at somewhere speak English (US, Australia, Canada....) My email: ducduyqn79@yahoo.com You can search my Facebook by my phone number: +84903651030 My Instagram: tum_leather https://uphinhnhanh.com/image/Cf9sYd https://uphinhnhanh.com/image/Cf9yhG Some of my product: https://uphinhnhanh.com/image/CkCtlz https://uphinhnhanh.com/image/CkC2No https://uphinhnhanh.com/image/CkSPq4
  11. Why does your LARP group demand that you use leather, and not foam or plastic? If you're actually going to do combat LARP in that costume, you may find those shoulder pieces (pauldrons, sort of?), as designed on the character, ineffective: 1) A hit downwards on those sticking-out pointed shoulders will put a LOT of stress on whatever is used to attach it to the rest of the armor. They stick out so far that it would be very difficult to prevent any hits to them. 2) A hit sideways onto the shoulder bits is going to be guided straight into that un-armored bicep, or maybe the hit will pop the shoulder piece up to smack you in the side of the head. 3) If the arms are extended to the front, the shoulder pieces don't seem to be designed to turn 90 degrees to the front. Thus, if you arms are reaching out to the front, and you get hit on the shoulder piece, that will drive the edge of the armor into your arm. Depending on your weapon rules, that might hurt more than you want. (Leather should just give you a welt or a bruise, but you wouldn't want that with metal!) 4) Your LARP group (like most) may disallow hand shots, but those wrist bones are sensitive and tender, and getting a smack there might ruin your day. Plus, those "gauntlets" would dig into the wrist as you moved your hands, causing contusions and scrapes. Not very comfortable!
  12. Ah, yes, I've struggled a bit with this, too-- water hardening is often a hit or miss process that I spent a while playing with. So you got one test piece to work, and the next piece didn't -- was that a piece from the same hide? Everything you mentioned above shows you did your homework-- but leather hardening seems much less a replicable science than a dicey art. The type of hide may make a difference, too: belly or shoulder or sides have different characteristics, and the same hide can vary, depending on which edge of the side the leather comes from. I've tried some with bellies, and they just don't harden well. I've had better luck with a side, but even then it's difficult to keep the dimensions intact (due to uneven stretching).
  13. DJole

    Need to be able to Draw to Carve?

    Not all designs need the ability to draw and sketch. If you can transfer a design that somebody else drew onto the leather, then the expertise comes in figuring out how to replicate that in leather. Some people do amazing, nearly photo-realistic work from drawings, using figure carving techniques to blend and shade. Others of us choose to do things like line drawings (or wood cut block printing), which work well on leather. I have some examples of this on my website: Serpent box <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/SerpentBox/SerpentBox.htm> Boar elbow guards <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/BoarElbow/BoarElbow.htm> Nativity panel <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/NativityPix/LeatherNativity.htm> Comet pouch <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Pouch/CometPouch-1.htm> Dragon box <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/TomsTower/TomDragon.htm> As you can see, the lines are copied, but then the art is learning how to work those lines into the 3-d medium of leather, to get that dimensional look and feel.
  14. DJole

    Newbie starts the first pattern

    I always have to remind myself that paper is flat, and leather is not, so you have to take the thickness of the leather into account. If you've done that, you're ahead of the game!
  15. DJole

    It's the flashlights fault!

    That's a nice introductory story! Welcome to the forum; lots of friendly people with lots of leather experience hang out here, and perhaps you can learn better techniques than cussing at the leather!