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rktaylor

Contributing Member
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About rktaylor

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stillwater, OK
  • Interests
    Saddle Making and Tack

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Saddles and Carving

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  1. Depending on the size of the hole and leather weight, you may be able to plug it with a leather 'thread'. Use a strip of leather from a stitch groover to thread needle. Pull it through the hole and trim it flush. I've used this on a saddle skirt and it blended in really well. You could find the mistake hole if you knew where to look. Randy
  2. Ron, Thanks for the tips. Thankfully it is warming up. I am not built for weather like we experienced. toswood, The breeching strap has a good, round edge and I think it's more flexible than the photo shows. However, I will tell the customer to watch it closely. This is a for a riding mule that likely won't see a lot of action, but it's worth noting. Thanks for the advice. I'll share some pictures with the mule saddled if I get a chance. Randy
  3. Ron, Thanks for the tips. I considered both orientations and settled on lengthwise, but am not sure why. I'll think of something to blame it on. I really appreciate your notes. I haven't typed anything yet, but I made a lot of measurements yesterday and will definitely document this project. I plan to deliver and adjust this later in the week, so we'll see how it fits. I am concerned that the straps may be too long. If so, I may just build another spider with new straps. It's all trial and error at my shop. Randy
  4. I ended up making my pattern. I need to consolidate my notes so the next one will be easier. Randy
  5. Ed, Thanks for the cantle binding tip. I like that tool. I antique a lot of projects, but haven't done a saddle. Maybe it's time. John, This saddle was built to team rope. The customer ordered the tree to his specs so the bars should be fine. The horn is a 3 1/2" TD with 1 1/2" cap. Thanks for all the feedback. Randy
  6. Thanks Ron, I'm getting better at ground seats, that's for sure. The rear jockeys ended up shallower than I would prefer, but they needed to line up with the front jockey. Both will be a little deeper on the next saddle. Randy
  7. Ron, Thanks for the feedback. Actually built it for a repeat customer, so I'm anxious to have him pick it up. Looking forward to the next saddle to hopefully correct some errors. Randy
  8. Thanks for the compliments and critiques. I need to check the bottom of the braid. I think the top is finished correctly, but the bottom is definitely off. I had already decided that the effort of this braid does not translate to better appearance, so I won't be using it again. You are correct. I thought I had it pulled around, but it may have slipped back before it was nailed. I believe I can fix it before the saddle is delivered. Randy
  9. Here's #10. Swanke tree and HO leather. The seat is 14.5" with 13" swells and 4" cantle. I've still got a lot of room for improvement, but the process is fun. Comments, critiques, suggestions are welcome. That's what helps me improve. Randy
  10. I'm making a breeching for a mule saddle and wondered if anyone had a pattern to share. I have a concept and an old harness to look at, but any information would help. Thanks, Randy
  11. Morgan, I'll echo the praise on a first saddle. It looks great. I appreciate you sharing your work and the open critiques. It helps us all learn and that's why I frequent this forum. Looking forward to seeing the second saddle. Randy
  12. Well done Ryan. I enjoy following your progress. Randy
  13. That looked really easy. I think I would be a little more challenged. Randy
  14. Does anyone have information on Davie Jones saddles? I'm doing some repairs on one and was curious. Thanks, Randy
  15. I buy stainless steel brads (19 gauge) at our local box store for some stuff, but use mostly 2d and 3d SS nails from McMaster-Carr. I look forward to following your progress. Randy
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