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About OldRedMule

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  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Horses, Mules, riding, leather crafts, saddle maker and more

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. I found some DBX1 1738 at thread exchange. The largest leather needle they had was 140/22 and that was for the triangle point. Anyone know of a place to get DBX1 1738 140/22 to 180/24 with leather points?
  2. I am not sure but I think the shaft is too narrow at the top of the needle going into the needle holder causing the needle to tilt around a bit in the holder. DPX17 is what is in there. Someone sold those to me as what I needed. I only know they are the right length. These needles will sew if I am careful as to how it is lined up, adjusting the tilt with the screw. Haha, ridiculous I know. The needle holder, thread guide and shaft are all new. Thank you for the chart!
  3. Looking for needles for my Juki. The manual seems to say that DBX1 #21 and 1738 130 were included with the original machine. The needle I am using seems to get out of plumb, so I am thinking the top is too narrow. Breaking a lot of needles and scratching the plate all up. I would like to be able to find an assortment. Leather and fabric needles. Anyone able to help?
  4. OldRedMule

    Dennis Lane

    Has anyone heard from Dennis Lane? I have been trying to buy a set of cards from him. For saddle fitting, back profile cards. They are paid for but he has not gotten back in touch with me. I ordered last September and yes, I understand Covid slowed things down. I hope he is ok, I would just like to know something? Anything?
  5. Beautiful job. I am going to do my second this 20/21 winter.
  6. Ya’ll make opening a business sound rather scary and where does profit come in? Everyone wants a piece. I’m not sure it’s worth the effort....
  7. Wow, thanks everybody. I appreciate the feed back. I drilled and screwed (2) and then wrapped not taking off the swell. I wrapped as I have done on newly built saddles as much as I could getting down low. I held in place with cotton kitchen string wrapped around the base real tight. No where to tack....Then trimmed the tails, let it dry and added the wing piece also wrapping as low as I could go. Then after stitching on a rawhide strip I wrapped in latigo. Turned out well I think. Hope it stays, but just so you all know, there were no holes in that horn when I got it!
  8. Replacing a horn covering, it twisted off, without taking the swell off. Can that be done? I am afraid it will just twist off again because he does rope. It is a bare metal horn now. How would I secure that from twisting? Just glue? The owner does't want the extra expense of the cover being done. I am new at this. If this has already been addressed please let me know. I could get everything covered up with a horn wrap so you would not be able to tell, but will it stay?
  9. Thank you Goldshot Ron. It is a Martin. Made in 08. It is a cross between an in skirt and a pocket style saddle. No lugs tied on or through strings. I have already got the fleece off and all the threads picked out and will later sew on new fleece. I will try your recipe. Thanks again.
  10. I am trying to refurbish a saddle while reinforcing the rigging and replacing the fleece. I have takin it apart, washed most of it with lukewarm water, a little dawn and used countless toothpicks to pick and push dirty oil out of the nooks and crannies and toothbrushes and nail brushes in a circular motion to release the rest. I have two areas of concern. Several very black hard slick areas that I am not sure what it is. I don’t think it is mold, we are in Tucson where it is dry and mold not usually an issue. It might be sweat? The owner is a horse trainer and rides about 8 hours a day. Not all in this saddle but this is his favorite so it is busy. It is about 10 years old. I am afraid to go at it too hard because I am afraid the top will come off. Most of these spots are in areas of wear and are also stamped. Are these areas of rot or decay? Second issue is there are a few areas where even the gentle washing resulted in the top finish coming off and is now raw and rough. Is there something I can do to repair, smooth, to tighten the surface back up? I can tell already that dye will be necessary. The trainer has been in the habit of periodically wiping down and conditioning the saddle. However, I have dug a lot of junk out of it, so not thoroughly cleaned by any means probably not ever and in a dusty dirty round pen you can just imagine. No judgement however, he is awesome and has a huge following training and homing mustangs. If I ever build one for him I will suggest plain and keep the carved ones for show. I am just building my first saddle, fairly new at leatherwork and only experienced in taking care of my own saddles and have not delt with this hard black and shrunken/compressed stuff before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also any information on how to identify certain stages of leather condition. I am at a loss. I understand you can make a piece of leather look pretty good but not be safe. I would like to learn more about these things. If there is another post already around I couldn’t find it. Thank you.
  11. It was so beautiful and congratulations on your prize. It was a super bonus to meet you. Till next time!
  12. I have an Adler 30-7. I understand the larger leather cutting needles are hard to find. I would like to try 207 thread in it. Bob in is kinda small but would still like to try. Can you help me find the large needles.

    1. Show previous comments  19 more
    2. OldRedMule


      Good morning and thank you. I will get you some photos.


    3. OldRedMule


      thanks for helping me and I am so sorry to have not sent pictures yet. However, I am out of town now for several weeks. So I will get those to you upon my return. 

      Again thank you so much for your help. 


    4. shoepatcher
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