Goldshot Ron

Weaver has a good You Tube video on Adler's. It is an easy fix if you watch their video.

That bag does look ready nice. Unfortunately, I cannot offer any advice on marketing. I would recommend, if you do not already subscribe, signing up for the magazine "illume". It used to be called ShopTalk. There is always an article in there that introduces new artisans and businesses. Maybe it would give you some ideas. I hear you though, making belts does not cover the costs.

Thanks Tom. I'll have to check out the link.

Looks very good Tom. Is the reins strap part of the nose band, or did you sew them together? And, you may have told me, but I forgot if you did; do you use a filler in the rounded jaw strap? I had a new halter come into the shop last week, and the jaw strap was kinked. I tried to round it out, but it seemed like the filler inside the leather was possibly a piece of wire and did not smooth out like I wanted. Thanks, Ron

I've used sink cutout granite pieces, scrap granite, and a 1.5" marble. They all worked for a while. The granite finally split in two. I skive on my stones, and the marble is too soft to skive on. The best find was at a monument company. My wife and I were purchasing a headstone for a relative. I asked one of the guys about scrap 3" stones. I got one for free. This company also had smaller stones (still 3 inches thick) for departed pets (about 12"x 18"). Yes, my stone is heavy, and I do not move it. I set it into my bench, and that is where it stays. I will say, I was not successful on my first attempt to find a discarded headstone, but I finally got lucky.

I use to have a formula for a simple cleaner using: water, ammonia, and a few drops of Ivory dish soap. It was suggested in a restoration article I read many years ago. I do not remember the person who suggested it, but I have used it on real greasy leather and it worked well.

As Tom said, adjust your top tension, and check your threading of the machine. Practice first on scrap until you are satisfied. What I will do on a practice piece is to cut carefully with my round knife along the seam to check where the treads are knotted within the leather. This helps to determine your top thread tension.

Thanks Tom, that's helpful information.

Tom, How long did this operation take, and what did you charge? There are few, if any, English repair people in my area. I have requests for repairs, but I really do not know what I am doing, and it takes time to figure out how to take the different saddles apart. So, I seldom say yes to requests. What I hear you saying is that instead of the stitching in front along the swell it is along the rear? Is there any alternative, other than purchasing a stapler, to reinstall the pieces of the saddle that have to be removed? Thanks Ron

A really good power splitter. Left over leather could be split down to use in many projects. It has to be 14 to 18 inches wide. My 6" Landis is fine for small pieces. But like Tim the Toolman said: "...more power, uhg, uhg."

Dwight, The kind of saddle bags that you mentioned are usually nylon bags. I'd have to measure my old US cavalry bags, but 12"x12" x 5"deep are about as large as you would want for leather saddle bags. I have made bags out of chap leather to cut down on weight, that would be an alternative to nylon. Also, thank you for the kind words. Ron

I would be pleased to send you a pattern. Here are a few that I have built. Let me know which one you would want a pattern for. As you said, the part that goes behind the cantle is the foundation for constructing the bags. Ron

I'd need a roadmap to put that on a horse. It took me several minutes to figure out the cavason attachment. Good job Tom, as always, I am envious of your work. Ron

Tom, That is a mighty fine piece of art that you created. When you say weighted lead, did you add something more than extra leather? Keep up the good work. Ron

What a show off Tom. That's another great looking work of art. I like you flowering trees also. Ron