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Goldshot Ron

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About Goldshot Ron

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern California

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles and tack
  • Interested in learning about
    improving leather working skills
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  1. What is the barrel diameter and length from tip of blade up to the saddle? I am not familiar with Beard's sk, is it length adjustable? Thanks, Ron
  2. Randy, Too long can be shortened: too short means "damn, cut another strap". An experience packer friend of mine prefers conways on the britchin' strap instead of roller buckles; so this is an area left to a person's choice. I have also seen spiders with just one big ring and no leather between it and the pack animal. Hope all is well, and that it is warming up in OK. Ron
  3. Randy, Attached are 2 pages from my "pack saddle instructions". I hope they give you some ideas. My model for these was from a retired outfitter and guide who ran a pack string in the Sierra Nevada range, and built his own equipment.
  4. Randy, I just saw your post. The spider up on the rump would work better turned with the dees going across not parallel. I am looking for some photos to posts that will give you some extra ideas. Ron
  5. Shelly, Very attractive saddle. Questions: conchos from Mincer, do you order directly from them? Design and measurements for the breast collar in your upper photos, are you willing to share your pattern? One last question: from where do you order your W&C skirting? Thanks for any information you can offer. Keep up the good work. Ron
  6. Randy, I had to look hard to give you any advice. It looks good and well executed. I've braided a flank billet once, and will not do it again. I like to make mine with a loop end for easy disassembly. Also, I recommend sewing around the buckle holes on the billets for a figure 8 design. This makes them less likely to rip out if caught on something. It sounds like you made this for a customer, I'm pretty sure they'll love it. One last item, I just finished putting new strings on an old custom saddle and used the same holes for everything, the damn rear jockeys still didn't come out looking correct. They never are as easy as one might think; it takes 3 hands and then some. Good going, Ron
  7. Like the design...I'm copying them. Beautiful horse head. A lot of work went in to these.
  8. Ron, You ended by saying the rear cinch isn't often as tight as it should be, and that was going to be my comment in regards to the rear of the saddle off the back of the horse. I laugh when someone rides around with the rear cinch so loose, a horse could get the hind leg caught in it. Anyway, you make a good point Ron about a roping saddle or a saddle's intended use and the placement of the rear cinch dee.
  9. Good job Ryan. Your tooling looks real good, and the design of the saddle looks clean. How did you do the Roland Saddlery, and I'd like to see how you installed the flank cinch dee.
  10. The "rule of thumb" for the placement of the flank cinch ring is center of the lowest point of the rear of the bars. So, the location will change depending on the design of the bars. There are always other factors to consider: fender design width, seat ear location, and the length of the horses belly. A larger and longer body horse could have the flank cinch further back, whereas a short bodied horse wouldn't. Based on this rule of thumb, the cinch ring location in your demo photos would be a little too far forward. Remember, the top photos were from a different era, and slightly different horse conformation from today's horses. Good Luck, Ron
  11. Rob, The saddle looks good. I like your skirts and Cheyanne Roll. My main comment is your fender and stirrup design. Have you used this pattern before? and how did it work if you have? The exposed leather appears that it may pinch the inside of the rider's leg. Also, the location of your front jockey/swell screw seems a little too low; this may interfere with the stirrup leathers when cinching up (limiting the throw of your stirrup over the seat). Please share the tree maker and tree size with us. Ron
  12. I started out with the basic 12x16 Tuff Shed, one window on the front and the door on the other front corner. I had to go with this size due to the County and their permits. I chose this design to save money. I later installed 3 more windows, electric, insulation, interior walls and an extended roof in the front for a porch. I have a 4x8 cutting table, a 2.5x8 foot work bench, 3 sewing machines, a Weaver manual clicker and 3 saddle stands. It's tight, but workable. Hope this gives you some information for your future workshop. Ron
  13. I started out using blue cut tacks and ringshank. I now use 2d and 3d SS like Randy. However, for final assembly where the nail doesn't show, I now use 1 1/4 drywall or decking screws. The blue cut are ok for temporary holding and under the seat where 1 inch nails may be too long. Also, I use no. 10-1.5 ss and ss collar washers for the swell screws and no. 10-1.24 ss for ringing plates. Ron.
  14. How do you feel about this attempt Randy? Your left wrap around looks good. Once you finish the cap off, I think it'll look good.
  15. Randy, Stohlman's pattern for their horns was a "v" style. What I have found for a straight up dally horn is to make your pattern with the wings more straight out to the cap. I don't use dish soap for lubrication of my chinaman, I use a lot of the white saddle soap on it. I also start forming my cover around the post to set the form of the leather. When satisfied, I unwrap and use Elmer's white glue on the flesh side of the leather and rewrap. I'll use my chinaman strap several times during this process; each time pulling the tacks and pulling out more slack out of the wings until I'm satisfied. I have gotten carried away and burnished the post leather by doing this, but like Josh said, if it's going to be wrapped with an inner tube no one will see it. Also, the white glue will clean off of the grain side with no problem. Back to the horn cap; I like mine to have a convex look on top, so I skive only the edges, and not the whole filler piece. I'm still trying to prefect this method, so I'm no expert. Good luck.
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