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Goldshot Ron

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About Goldshot Ron

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    Southern California

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles and tack
  • Interested in learning about
    improving leather working skills
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  1. John, I know nothing about balance-ride saddles, but with only 6 saddles under your belt, I would suggest that you are not ready to experiment. I built a knock-off of a Pat Perelli saddle, or at least the best I could from looking at photos on the internet. I was dissatisfied, and I believe the customer was also unhappy. This customer thought I could save him a couple thousand dollars, and I wanted the practice. His savings was not worth it to me, and it was a saddle that I would rather forget. Just my experience, Ron.
  2. That back ring looks like it is for a britchen strap. It is too far back for a flank cinch dee. A good location, for a flank cinch billet, would be in-line with your concho at the edge of the cantle.
  3. It sounds like to me that the saddle was made using cardboard as a filler and not leather. I have worked on saddles that had the same problem, but the owner was willing to pay to have the padded seat replaced, and at the same time I repaired the problem. I agree with Ole Toot, glue won't do much.
  4. To do what you are suggesting: I would take a piece of leather larger than the spacing of your jockey's and double it over. You will have to trim the fold down to take a 1" dee. Punch your holes in the leather to match your jockey's lacing holes and lace everything together. The Dee piece would be attached to the underside of your jockeys. I wouldn't lace the dee directly to the jockeys because of the stress that would be placed directly on your lace. If this is what you are thinking, it will work. Let us know what you decided to do. Ron
  5. What type of fleece is on the saddles: real wool, or imitation? What are the rigging plates made of: brass, stainless steel, or aluminum, or plated steel? Just looking at the stamping on the second photo looks like a saddle from the late to early 1960's. The first saddle could be older, but we still need to see more photos.
  6. I complain a lot to myself, but seldom do anything about it. However, recently I did complain to a supplier about the leather that I received. It was supposed to be Grade A, but the neck and butt were useless. These sections were so hard, I couldn't cut them. Unfortunately, this isn't the first time that I have received hides that originated from this particular tannery that had hard spots (rawhide). Rolled out on the table the side looked okay, but setting out my patterns and cutting them was another matter. The company that supplied the sides was apologetic, but they aren't the tannery. Anyway, more people need to yell when something is wrong. Just my opinion.
  7. PM: click on person's name you want to message. Their profile appears and in the upper header you will see an envelope that says message.
  8. I have used this method, but I prefer a ring instead of a dee. I believe that a ring allows for a more even pull between the front and rear rigging attachment points. Your work is looking good so far.
  9. Just saw your post again. The scraping is necessary, and it sounds like you have it figured out. I never thought of Dawn, it does work well on greasy dishes. Old school leatherworkers used Ivory because it wasn't as harsh as other soaps of it's time. To be honest, the important thing to do after cleaning with any product, it to put the oils back into the leather after cleaning. I've tried a lot of different oils and conditioners; and, I always go back to neatsfoot oil. But, use whatever you feel comfortable in using, and what works for you. So, how is the saddle you said you were building coming out?
  10. Thanks Ed. I used his plain rigging rings for my last saddle and was impressed by them. I'll have to check out is plain B/C dees.
  11. It appears to be a factory made saddle that someone stamped over the maker's mark. I could tell you that Jimmy Stewart used it in a 1954 western shot in Circleville, Utah, about a cowboy trying to do the right thing for his elderly father and mother. BUT, if it came from an auction in Oklahoma, that's about as good as the story will be. Often times, inexpensive factory made saddles are comfortable, you just don't want to rope a steer or pull a muley pack string using one.
  12. Hey Ed, Just saw something else that tickled my interest; I like you breast collar dees. Where do buy your hardware. I buy most of my hardware from Weaver, but it would be nice to have something special, other than J. Watt's (which is nice, but somewhat too Southwestern for my taste). Thanks, Ron
  13. Beautiful saddle Ed. What do you do to get your rough out parts so smooth, without the ragged fleshy areas? I see a lot of thought has gone into the planning and construction of this saddle. Thanks for sharing, Ron
  14. Every saddle making book and CD will show you a different way to install a ground seat and cheyenne roll filler. I personally usually fall back to a version used by Stohlman. A leather ground seat or tinplate can be the same for either straight up or Cheyenne roll, once you have laid down the foundation. I suggest using Watt's method on installing the Cheyenne roll filler in the dish. This method is easier than Stohlman's. Cary Schwarz has a style where the filler goes down deeper into the seat, but I had problems using this method and went back to Watt's method. Also Ed, I've saved some of your photos for reference; thank you for sharing, I like your work. Ron
  15. Yes they will. I have used them also on lighter weight leathers using light leather and nylon webbing.
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