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Goldshot Ron

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About Goldshot Ron

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern California

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles and tack
  • Interested in learning about
    improving leather working skills
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  1. To fudge this, you move you stitch length handle up a little to adjust the stitch. There is a good tutorial on Youtube using a 205 clone. I am sorry that I cannot remember the name of the video, but it is very helpful.
  2. Hey Randy, Your new saddle looks really good. I never heard of your tree maker, where are they out of? Aren't taps fun? How did you attach the lower string on the taps? My suggestion after making a new saddle is to use it, then sell it as used. You can feel what you did right or wrong, and use it as a learning tool. Also, I have found people will give you almost as much for a used saddle as a new one. Take care, Ron
  3. Check out Uwe Grosse video on Youtube. It sounds like your timing is off.
  4. I have a Toro 3000 that I purchased in 2007. I have always used Weaver's bonded nylon thread without any problems. If the grease bothers you, cleaning it off will not hurt anything. I have always used sewing machine oil, so I have no experience with any other lubrication. The company was in Vernon, CA when I purchased the machine, and since then they have moved up to the Bay Area, and they have changed ownership. But, be advised, if you need parts they change a minimum fee for the parts. So, a $3 bobbin spring may be $30; or, in my case, a spring plus 6 bobbin spools for the same price. This machine takes many of the same parts as other 205 style machines. Happy sewing.
  5. I do not say this to be a "smart arse", but is the condition of the saddle worth your time and effort? It is easy to fall into the trap of the challenge. Not with the saddle here for me to look at, but from your photos, I would consider recovering the knee pads and tucking the new leather under the existing leather of the seat and front jockey. To repair the cantle: you either replace the whole seat cover or scab in leather to go over the cantle. Either way will require a lot of stitching. If the cantle is wood, you might be able to replace the triangular part of the seat and pull the edge over the back side of the cantle. Scallop the back edge of this new piece of leatheer, and tack it to the back of the cantle. This technique is used on western saddles and creates a vintage appearance. Good luck
  6. 4 of us loaded the machine into the trailer, but I unloaded it alone. First, lower the table to it's lowest position and tighten the two knobs on the stand. There is a pistol within the stand that allows for machine height adjustment. If not secured, the table may spring upward when the head is removed. I cannot tell you the exact weight of the head, but it feels like about 175 pounds or more. I moved the head on a hand cart into my shop, and was able to lift it onto my work table. The stand is not light either, but manageable. Once inside the shop, I positioned the stand equal to my work bench, and slide the machine onto the stand. This all sounds simple, but I questioned my logic more than a couple of times during this operation. Good luck, and happy sewing.
  7. @Uwe...yes, the problem that I was having with my 205 was exactly as shown in your video (nice camera also). To time it, I took off the presser foot cover and the feed dog. It sure made it easier to time, and see what was going on. I had to use 6 spacer rings to adjust for the 346 thread. I am still having some problems sewing in reverse, but that will have to wait for another day.
  8. Amazing the work you do. Zippers scare me, but I have sewn them into cantle bags. Easy stuff compared to your boots. I use rubber cement when sewing them, and the clips like you used. The cement is just to hold the zipper in place while sewing.
  9. Solution found. As Wiz mentioned, there are spacers that go in front of the bobbin. I installed extra spacers for a total of 6 spacers to accommodate the heavier thread and retimed the machine to make sure all was correct. It appears to have solved my problem.
  10. Thanks for the reply. I have tried different combinations of spacers, and yet the problem keeps occuring. I received a call from John at Weaver, and we are still trying to figure out the problem. The top thread is binding between the shuttle hook and the rear race. It is probably something real simple, and I am learning.
  11. I acquired an Adler 205 a couple of months ago. It was set up using 138 size thread. When I changed to heavier 346 the bobbin hook started catching the top thread and knotting up. I checked timing, tension, cleaned and oiled machine, removed the needle spacer, and watched "You Tube" videos umpteen times. After days of dismantling and trying different things, I have discovered that the top thread is getting caught between the bobbin shuttle hook and the back race. The hook catches the top thread and the loop is formed; however, the top thread cannot finish the loop because it becomes stuck between the bobbin shuttle and the rear race. The tension in this area appears too tight. I am waiting for a return call from Weaver, but decided to post here also. I have polished the bobbin hook and the race. And, I have checked the 4 springs that are behind the race. I am missing something, but I do not know what. Grateful for any help. Ron
  12. Nice to know of a source for stirrup designed in the old styles. They look good, and I am impressed with the metal work.
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