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Goldshot Ron

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Everything posted by Goldshot Ron

  1. I believe Stohlman's book shows 3" wide leathers, so if your slots are a little too small for 3", go down to 2 1/2". I've worked on a lot of saddles with less than 2 1/2" wide leathers, and they have held up quit well.
  2. RDL Makes some very good points. Now, I wonder how to place breast collar dees. Lately, I've been incorporating my dees in the latigo carriers. I seldom use clip (metal) and dees because the hole in the clip doesn't always line up where I what it, and drilling into stainless steel cost more in drill bits than it's worth. I do believe that breast collar dees should be attached to the tree and not to skirts and rigging plates. I usually use leather to attach the dees, and rawhide if the repair (original equipment) of a saddle calls for it. Also, for dees at rosettes for tying on stuff, I like to use rawhide. So, what did you decide on your fenders?
  3. These photos, in my opinion, would be an early F.O. Baird saddle. His later saddles were more refined, and were designed more around western equitation.
  4. Dusty, I think Ron mentioned this, design is up to the customer or you. Stohlman's pattern makes sense in some ways, but is old fashion looking. There are more shapes and patterns than you can shake a stick at, some good, some not so good. I always look at it this way: 1. is it narrow enough at the top to be adjusted up into the leather's slot, and yet can still have swing; 2) is the top/back wide enough not to pinch the rider's leg if he is spurring backward; 3) does it go far enough down at the stirrup tail to keep the rider's pant legs from soaking up the horse's sweat; and, does it look aesthetically pleasing. I like a fender with a little forward angle (forward of the stirrup leathers) to allow for forward swing and when stretching the leathers, can be shaped outward with a little flare. Ron's photo is a good example for a design, but see how the leathers are slightly ahead of the fender. What I have mentioned with flaring out the front of the fender, this will allow the fender to run up over the leathers. Go for it pard, just do it and have fun with the results.
  5. FO Baird was a well known leather crafter as early as the 1930's. He predated Al Stohlman. He bought a saddle company from the Braydon Brothers located in Los Angeles around 1938, and I believe made saddles up to the early 60's. Some of his saddles were unique in design, and often geared more for looks than a real working saddle. They were well made and many are quite serviceable even today. The two that I have repaired and conditioned were really nice saddles, but I wouldn't ride in one. As far as price, they are more of a collectors saddle, so you would get better money through an auction.
  6. Thanks Shooter, I checked their website, and they are back ordered on Aquilem, along with their solvent contact cement. I tired thinning the Aquilem that I bought, and it did seem to work better, but it just doesn't setup as fast as Barge. I am slow as it is, but waiting for glue to dry makes me even slower. I guess I'll just go take a nap.
  7. Shooter, thanks for the advice. I'll try thinning the Aquilem. Which vendor had the better product?
  8. I recently purchased Aquilem GL because I can't find solvent based glues in California any longer, and companies won't ship glue like Barge to Calif. Anyway, the GL is also like toothpaste. It says to apply and wait for 4-5 minutes for it to turn clear, but I have waited longer and it leather still slips around when attaching a piece to the saddle tree. Can it be thinned? Or, am I not being patient enough? After 24 hours it seems to adhere ok, and any spillage does just peal off. Any comments would be appreciated. Ron
  9. Butch, My answer to you is YES, your leathers will be longer on the outside of the fender. Stohlman has a length guide in his book, but I feel you just can't take his guide and add (say) 3 to 5 inches. My answer would be to determine the length you will need using the outside-fender measurements and ADD some extra. You can always remove leather. Do not punch your buckle holes until you've tooled your leathers and attached them to your fender. When you are satisfied with them, now you can measure your inside part and cut to desired length, and punch your buckle holes. You may feel like you are wasting leather, but it is easier than mis-measuring and having to do them over. Good luck, Ron
  10. Well, I stand corrected on the number of stitch rows. I went back through my photos of halters and repairs; and, many of them were 3 rows. I also make halter bridles for my mule friends, but they are lighter weight and my stitching is just around the perimeter. Anyway, you're on a good with your first halter.
  11. Tom, Your stitching looks fine to me for a first attempt, it just takes practice. Three rows of stitching is a little overkill however. On most of my halters I put on an adjustable chin strap instead of a fixed one like yours. Type of oil is a preference: olive vs. neatsfoot. I use Oakwood Leather Conditioner, and hand rub it into the leather and creases. When it dries, it can be buffed for a shine. I don't use Tan Kote on tack or saddles; but, no matter what you use after stitching, your white thread will tend to yellow. Nice looking halter, Ron
  12. In ebay, search for Atherton. They may come up from time to time. I use a no. 5 and no. 6. The blades are usually well used. It is a tool that I only use for shaping seats, and it is just another tool to have in your chest of tools. I bought mine off of ebay. Also, don't pay over $35-$40; they aren't really all that useful. Ron
  13. What is the barrel diameter and length from tip of blade up to the saddle? I am not familiar with Beard's sk, is it length adjustable? Thanks, Ron
  14. Randy, Too long can be shortened: too short means "damn, cut another strap". An experience packer friend of mine prefers conways on the britchin' strap instead of roller buckles; so this is an area left to a person's choice. I have also seen spiders with just one big ring and no leather between it and the pack animal. Hope all is well, and that it is warming up in OK. Ron
  15. Randy, Attached are 2 pages from my "pack saddle instructions". I hope they give you some ideas. My model for these was from a retired outfitter and guide who ran a pack string in the Sierra Nevada range, and built his own equipment.
  16. Randy, I just saw your post. The spider up on the rump would work better turned with the dees going across not parallel. I am looking for some photos to posts that will give you some extra ideas. Ron
  17. Shelly, Very attractive saddle. Questions: conchos from Mincer, do you order directly from them? Design and measurements for the breast collar in your upper photos, are you willing to share your pattern? One last question: from where do you order your W&C skirting? Thanks for any information you can offer. Keep up the good work. Ron
  18. Randy, I had to look hard to give you any advice. It looks good and well executed. I've braided a flank billet once, and will not do it again. I like to make mine with a loop end for easy disassembly. Also, I recommend sewing around the buckle holes on the billets for a figure 8 design. This makes them less likely to rip out if caught on something. It sounds like you made this for a customer, I'm pretty sure they'll love it. One last item, I just finished putting new strings on an old custom saddle and used the same holes for everything, the damn rear jockeys still didn't come out looking correct. They never are as easy as one might think; it takes 3 hands and then some. Good going, Ron
  19. Like the design...I'm copying them. Beautiful horse head. A lot of work went in to these.
  20. Ron, You ended by saying the rear cinch isn't often as tight as it should be, and that was going to be my comment in regards to the rear of the saddle off the back of the horse. I laugh when someone rides around with the rear cinch so loose, a horse could get the hind leg caught in it. Anyway, you make a good point Ron about a roping saddle or a saddle's intended use and the placement of the rear cinch dee.
  21. Good job Ryan. Your tooling looks real good, and the design of the saddle looks clean. How did you do the Roland Saddlery, and I'd like to see how you installed the flank cinch dee.
  22. The "rule of thumb" for the placement of the flank cinch ring is center of the lowest point of the rear of the bars. So, the location will change depending on the design of the bars. There are always other factors to consider: fender design width, seat ear location, and the length of the horses belly. A larger and longer body horse could have the flank cinch further back, whereas a short bodied horse wouldn't. Based on this rule of thumb, the cinch ring location in your demo photos would be a little too far forward. Remember, the top photos were from a different era, and slightly different horse conformation from today's horses. Good Luck, Ron
  23. Rob, The saddle looks good. I like your skirts and Cheyanne Roll. My main comment is your fender and stirrup design. Have you used this pattern before? and how did it work if you have? The exposed leather appears that it may pinch the inside of the rider's leg. Also, the location of your front jockey/swell screw seems a little too low; this may interfere with the stirrup leathers when cinching up (limiting the throw of your stirrup over the seat). Please share the tree maker and tree size with us. Ron
  24. I started out with the basic 12x16 Tuff Shed, one window on the front and the door on the other front corner. I had to go with this size due to the County and their permits. I chose this design to save money. I later installed 3 more windows, electric, insulation, interior walls and an extended roof in the front for a porch. I have a 4x8 cutting table, a 2.5x8 foot work bench, 3 sewing machines, a Weaver manual clicker and 3 saddle stands. It's tight, but workable. Hope this gives you some information for your future workshop. Ron
  25. I started out using blue cut tacks and ringshank. I now use 2d and 3d SS like Randy. However, for final assembly where the nail doesn't show, I now use 1 1/4 drywall or decking screws. The blue cut are ok for temporary holding and under the seat where 1 inch nails may be too long. Also, I use no. 10-1.5 ss and ss collar washers for the swell screws and no. 10-1.24 ss for ringing plates. Ron.
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