Goldshot Ron

Solution found. As Wiz mentioned, there are spacers that go in front of the bobbin. I installed extra spacers for a total of 6 spacers to accommodate the heavier thread and retimed the machine to make sure all was correct. It appears to have solved my problem.

Thanks for the reply. I have tried different combinations of spacers, and yet the problem keeps occuring. I received a call from John at Weaver, and we are still trying to figure out the problem. The top thread is binding between the shuttle hook and the rear race. It is probably something real simple, and I am learning.

I acquired an Adler 205 a couple of months ago. It was set up using 138 size thread. When I changed to heavier 346 the bobbin hook started catching the top thread and knotting up. I checked timing, tension, cleaned and oiled machine, removed the needle spacer, and watched "You Tube" videos umpteen times. After days of dismantling and trying different things, I have discovered that the top thread is getting caught between the bobbin shuttle hook and the back race. The hook catches the top thread and the loop is formed; however, the top thread cannot finish the loop because it becomes stuck between the bobbin shuttle and the rear race. The tension in this area appears too tight. I am waiting for a return call from Weaver, but decided to post here also. I have polished the bobbin hook and the race. And, I have checked the 4 springs that are behind the race. I am missing something, but I do not know what. Grateful for any help. Ron

Nice to know of a source for stirrup designed in the old styles. They look good, and I am impressed with the metal work.

PM sent

I agree with Jack. I recommend purchasing shoulders with pasted backs. However, another product you can use is Fiebing's Leather Balm with atom wax. I use it on the backside of stirrup fenders. Once in a great while, you may have to slick it with a glass slicker to lay the fibers down, but with a few coats it gives you a nice surface.

Let's take some more off of this set. I will take $275 (includes shipping within the US) for the set of 5 J.Dixon English Point strap end punches.

SOLD

REDUCTION IN PRICE FOR THE ABOVE PUNCHES: also the price includes shipping within the US. 1 1/2 " SOLD, 1 1/4" $65, 1" $70, 7/8" $65.00, 3/4" $65.00, and 5/8" $60. If you want more than one, prices are negotiable.

Up for consideration is a six punch set, J.Dixon English Strap End Punches. I am asking $370.00 (shipping included) for the set. I have buffed and tested each punch. Punches show some pitting, and a couple of the punches have slightly mushroomed striking ends. Their overall condition is good for vintage punches. If purchased individually the price that I am asking (includes shipping): 1 1/2" $80.00, 1 1/4" $80.00, 1" $80.00, 7/8: $80.00, 3/4" $75.00, and 5/8" $75.00. Thank you

SALE PENDING....I have some English point and round point punches that I will be listing shortly.

I use this style on skirting leather for saddles, and strap buckle holes. They are more handy to use than rotary punches or belt punches. However, each style of hole punch has it's own purpose. Study up on CS Osborne, and you will find that one of these punches may have collector's value.

I acquired vintage handtools that belonged to a saddle maker who moved out of our area. Here are seven C.S. Osborne spring punches that I am offering for sale. I am asking $45 for each punch, and that includes shipping within the United States. #1 is in good condition. The tool says size 2, but the tube size is a number 7. This punch is CS Osborne, Newark NJ. #2 is in good condition, size 3. #3 is tube size 4 #4 is in good condition, size 6 #5 is in good condition, size 8 #6 is in fair condition, size 9 #7 is in poor condition, tube size 6, but tool says 2. I have buffed the cutting edges, and they all cut. The anvils are okay for light use, but you may want to change them out for heavy use. Replacement tubes can be purchased from Weaver, and the threaded tube ends are all the same.

If these are not client saddles, their value is basically as a learning experience on how to repair a saddle like this if you even have a customer that wants such a saddle repaired. I would not spend the money or time to repair them. Techniques in construction and design have changed since these saddles were built. It has been my experience that only a few people appreciate old saddles enough to buy one after you repair it. They were built for the showring, and not as a pleasure or ranch saddle.

You mentioned Weaver, I have used Weaver for over 16 years, and find that they have almost all of the items I need. However, they are reluctant to give you wholesale prices if you don't do over $1200 of orders in a year. If you haven't already done so, you need to order a catalog from them to see everything they carry. Internet searches for them missed a lot of items. Springfield Leather is another company that is starting to ramp up their inventory. Good Luck. Ron

More information on the leather. The tannery of this leather is unknown to me, but the tannage is similar to Joseph Clayton and Sons, in London. I do have some sides available if larger sections are needed.

Selling several large pieces of English saddle leather approximately 10/11 once or 3-3.5cm thick. Colors are: black, brown (pebbled), and dark brown with natural grain. Sizes are 18x29 inches, 24x16 inches, and 24x30 inches. Also 3 additional pieces approximately 12x12 inches. Asking $100 includes shipping within the US. Photo 1 is of the larger pieces. Photo 2 is of the 3 additional pieces, and photo 3 shows the grain of the larger pieces. These were used for billet repairs. PM here for more details. Thanks, Ron

I agree with Bruce. You would be better off doing it over. There are too many things that are not installed correctly and finished off properly.

The spring snap you posted looks like a number 200, but the buckle isn't anything I can find. Montana Leather has the snaps, and the only center bar buckles that they show are a number 121 or a 150 (roller bar). I use them for leather and they are responsive to questions. I recommend them.

Tom, Beautiful work, as always.

Very inventive Tom. I bought a stirrup plate for my machine to try to sew the rounded throatlatches, but I haven't tried it yet to see if it works. Continue with your good work.

Tom, The bridle looks great. All hand sewn is impressive. Are you using a pricking iron or awl?

I am reluctant to comment, because I may stir up a hornets nest. Your post appears that you are looking at a new saddle, or at least a factory made saddle. The saddles to look at, in my opinion, are: Circle Y, Colorado Saddlery, Martin, Crates, and Billy Cook. These are factory made, and can be repaired fairly easily. You should be able to pick up a fairly decent used saddle for $2200, but have a reliable saddle repair shop check it for you. There are many good used custom made saddles out there, but that requires time to check them out. Another good company to consider is McCall Saddlery. They are a small shop, but their saddles are well put together (A plus in my book). In Montana, there are so many good saddle makers, you couldn't help but hit one by swinging a dead cat over you head and letting it fly. My humble opinion, for what it is worth.

Could you stamp some leather images with these stamps so we can better see their pattern? Thanks

Since you are using a metal seat strainer, the best tutorial that I have found is Jeremiah Watt's DVD on saddle making. There are a couple of videos on You Tube that may be helpful: one is David Mills video. The one problem with buying a strainer from Weaver is that their strainers may be too short for a seat over 15 inches. A good source for strainers is Montana Leather. There, you can talk with someone that can measure the strainer to make sure it will fit your saddle before you purchase it. I have taken to making my own strainers from 22 ga. stock that you can find in a hardware store (i.e. True Value). This way you can cut it to fit the length, width, and stirrup slots to match your tree bars and your purpose. Ron