Goldshot Ron

OK Sioux, I have a request....would you post photos of how you thread the bobbin? I purchased a 3 several years ago because I thought I needed one. Anyway, I was never sure if the bobbin was threated correctly. Lately, I have been having trouble on the bobbin side of the stitch. Also, where can you buy extra bobbins? I only have one. My machine"s story is that it came from King Saddlery through Sheridan Leather, via a gentleman from Northern New Mexico. Cool to have tools with such history. Thanks, Ron

I agree with all of the advice above. Adam's and Stohlman's books are a must. I still refer to each of these on a regular basis, even when repairing or modifying a saddle. The older books from the 50s and 60s are interesting to read for historical techniques, but not handy in todays construction methods. Dale Harwood's DVD is good for different techniques and opinions, but the DVD set is expensive. Cary Schwarz also has DVDs available for ground seat installation, and covering cantles. These are excellent to study after you have built a few saddles. One thing about this forum is that there are plenty of people to help you if you get stuck at a segment of construction. There is a member on here from Michigan, Bondo Bob, who might reappear to help you. Good luck.

Try Herb Bork in Pendleton, Or. I haven't seen them in their catalog, but you may get lucky.

Geary, As Josh mentioned, the Stohlman Encyclopedia vol. 1 will be very helpful. If you could post some photos of the saddle rigging, you'd receive more help. There are so many techniques and styles, it is helpful to see the saddle. Ron

Lookin' good Ryan. Nice touch with the seeder used with the camo stamp along the edge.

The Instagram example that you posted uses a lined pear shader in the pedals. You could also use a checkered shader, but the lines is more realistic. Anyway, the lines hold the dye as you can see in your decorative cuts.

Well, I'm sorry that I offended you. Your original post, and your interest quote led me to believe that you were just starting in saddle making. I tip my hat to you for trying different things. Every day I learn that I won't live long enough to achieve great things, so I shouldn't offer advice to those who may.

Neat post...didn't want to comment but your last post enters into a different subject matter. You started talking about bars, but you mentioned about the saddle raising in the back in your last post. This issue can be caused by misplacing the location of your rigging. Many roping saddle are rigged in the full position. This often creates a pivot point at the center or ahead of the front forks. When the rear flank cinch is not tight, the saddle will lift up in the rear when the horse rolls forward (lack of a better description). By positioning the rigging at 7/8ths. or 3/4 this pivot point is moved back, and the weight of the rider keeps the saddle from raising in the rear. I also agree with all of the previous comments. Weight distribution along the horses back is best achieved when the bar alignment is equal along the back. Build a few saddles before you try to be innovative.

I just now received a call from a fellow that has a Cowboy 4500 for sale. He's asking $2100. I believe he said it is about 3 years old, and he's the original owner. He's in So. Cal. Ron

The yellow is drier or harder than the white. I use the yellow to clean saddles and tack, and a good amount of water to create a lather. I use the white when lacing. Since it is creamier than the yellow, it is easier to apply with little or no water; and, rubs into the strings with less mess. Ron

Reread, title of post...the Bay Area is too far for me to drive. Good luck on your sale.

Could you post a photo? And, where are you located in California to determine pick up costs. Thanks

Ron, The saddle looks good, and your tooling came out good. Gordon Andrus has an article in the last issue of the Leather Crafters Journal that talks about bar grounding. I think you'd benefit from reading it. I do have a couple of comments, but they are only my opinion. I would have rounded the skirts on the inside of the rigging ring to allow for easier tying off of the latigo strap. Your seat jockey could have been cut a little more forward (or fuller) to cover the front rigging rings; there appears from the photos a little misalignment between the front and rear jockeys. And, one last thought is that the center button tab maybe a little too high on the cantle. For a straight up seat this is okay, but if you were to build a Cheyenne roll, it'll play hell fitting under the roll and installing your rosettes (been there, done that). I can really tell that you're an individual that thinks out and designs every aspect of your project. It shows in your work. Really good job. Ron

I've read about Mop & Glo, but have never tried it. Your finish looks good, so I'll have to try it.

Nice work Josh. Your border shows a lot of imagination and skill. I like your finish, how did you apply it? Looking forward to see your next project. Ron

I didn't find any card. There was a serial number behind the cantle on the near side. The seat is only 12 inches, yet the stirrup fenders are 19 inches long; so it isn't a kids saddle. The fleece was in good condition for the saddle's possible age. I only repaired and replaced what was critical for safety and to keep the customer's cost down. It's a nice and strong saddle, too bad the seat is so small. Also, does anyone know what the purpose of the left hand strap on the fork was for? Ron

Recently received this N.Porter saddle to clean and repair. The leather was in good condition, and the saddle was a pleasure to repair. Can anyone identify the possible age of the saddle? There are some construction designs that are similar to those found in Stohlman's Encyclopedia of Saddle Making. The saddle tooling was also unique. Ron

What is the surface that you are using on which to place your leather? Wood or stone? You haven't shown your tooling surface. The mallet or hammer that you use is also important. Too light and it becomes too much work; too heavy, and your impressions will be too deep. It appears that you are letting the stamp bounce on the leather. As mentioned already, your beveling should not appear as individual blows, but as a smooth line where your tool marks fade into each other. Since your stamps aren't very expensive, go ahead and modify them. I've thrown out a lot of old Craft Japan stamps because I filed them down too much; but by doing this, it gives you a better understanding of how stamps are designed, and different impressions you can make by just playing around with just one or two stamps. Good luck, Ron

You have a couple things going for you. Ferg mentioned background, and I agree with him that you have done a good job with having about the right amount of background filler. Your flow is good, and the balance looks good. I'm going to make two comments: one, your flowers and leaves seem to be just second thoughts. Your wavy leaf on the right is how your other two leaves should appear. It's center stem is part of your overall design. The heart shaped leaves do not seem to be connected to the stem like you wavy leaf. Also, your flowers aren't connected with a bulb or stem. They are just there. One last comment (and I know I said two things), if you get a French curve, you'll make better curved lines with your design. Believe me, it's hard to transfer your image to leather if you aren't working with nice flowing lines to begin with. Good work, Ron

Paul, First, is the fleece real sheep skin or imitation. Second, check for staples holding pieces onto tree; if so, it's factory made. Third, if it passes the first two tests: real fleece, not stapled, then check the bars under the left stirrup leather for a tree maker's mark (some makers put their mark or label here). Fourth, what type of screws have been used: phillips head or slotted oval. Older saddles would use slotted oval, and maybe brass, no stainless steel nor fancy star heads. Check stirrup leathers for their adjustment buckles. If they are laced, this could indicate an older saddle, maybe 1940s or older. However, since the rigging is inskirt, and the weight is heavy, I tend to think that the saddle isn't antique worthy. If the stirrups are original, they appear to be heavy roper style stirrups that came out maybe in the 1960s. Please keep us informed of your findings. Ron

Like Tom, I have made wooden blocks to mold my leather around. After making a case, it can be stretched by wetting the case and adding an 8/9oz. piece to the mold and remolding to fit the phone. One problem you'll find when making a case for someone, they neglect to tell you that they have a protection trim around their phone. Always look and measure the phone yourself, don't count on the customer's figure being correct. Ron

Here's one tip if you haven't tried it yet; make angled cuts between the nail holes along the bars. The cuts should be uniform in length and distance between each other. The cut would be from the edge of the strainer, and no further than the edge of the bar (approximately 3/4 to 1 inch). Cuts don't have to be made along the cantle section. This allows the strainer edge to conform to the bars without hammering the hell out of the center seat part of the strainer. You shouldn't be hammering the plate so hard that you break a mallet. Also, use an anvil to help shape the plate, not your tree. I have a piece of train rail for my anvil. Also, make sure that the bottom of the strainer is not so flat that it lies on the horse's spine, or pushes the pad down causing a pressure point along the back. Everyone lays the ground seat pieces differently over the strainer, so remember that the leather primarily forms the seat, not the metal strainer. Hope this helps, Ron

Years ago I purchased a CS Osborn oval punch. It was the smallest they made. Because of the bevel of the punch, the hole is larger than ideal. Who makes oval punches that would make a nice hole? Ron

Do whatever you have to do to make it work.

Attached are plans and instructions. Note that the radius of the arch is 4.5 inches. This may vary depending on the horse, but fits a 16 hand quarter horse mare (big girl). Photo 1 - collar, photo 2 center strap to cinch, photo 3 is all parts except the snap and buckle at cinch center dee. Chaff guard in optional.