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Goldshot Ron

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Everything posted by Goldshot Ron

  1. Goldshot Ron
    Ron, The shape of the doorknob bouncer is probably convex, so if you use the leather pad as Bob mentioned, it will reduce the marks on the seat. I also use an old doorknob bouncer, and have experienced your problem. You just need to move it around continuously in different directions so that the leather is equally compressed throughout your seat. Superficial marks or indentations on leather can usually be removed or leveled out with moistening of the leather and rubbing out the mark with a rub stick (bone folder, slicker, etc.); just don't rub so hard that you end up burnishing the leather (this is permanent).
  2. Goldshot Ron
    Randy, Your work is looking good. Are you taking your own measurements and making your patterns, or are you using an established pattern? I have a couple of comments. On the OSU collar, your cinch tie down would look better if you didn't taper in from the dee down to the strap so quickly. Make it more of a "Y" shape, this would make it easier to sew, and make it stronger over time. On your latigo backed collar, I suggest that you taper your dee attachment points more. Right now, off the horse, it looks like it should fit; however, depending on where your collar dees on your saddle are located, your collar may pitch up at the front dee when put on the horse, and not lay flat on the chest. The closer the dees are on the saddle; example, dees located on the front rosettes, or attaching the billets around the fork and through the handhole, cause the collar to bind at the collar dee. Looking forward to see your next saddle. Ron
  3. Goldshot Ron
    The 3000 has a bobbin winder attached to the machine table on the right side of the machine. It is not on the machine head. If your used machine doesn't have a winder, you can order one through the Artisan Company. I've had a Toro 3000 for over seven years, and it has been a good working machine. Happy sewing, Ron
  4. Goldshot Ron
    One problem that I've experienced with the use of longer rivets and cutting them down to size is that the further that the burr is driven down, the more it expands the hole of the burr. Then, as you reach for your cutter to cut off the excess, the burr loosens up, and you may not get a good tight fit. So, you end up spending more time and effort than is necessary when setting the rivet. If using Superior buckles or Farrel style buckles, the rivet is peened against the buckle itself; but, I always insert my Blevens between the stirrup leather and the fender pigtail so that a burr is needed. Also, one thing that I learned from one of the saddle pros (forgot who, so I can't give credit where credit is due) is to sew the two stirrup leather pieces together first, then insert the buckle between them and then rivet. It makes the whole piece look better, and creates a tighten fit. PS...there are so many ways to skin a cat....poor cat.
  5. Goldshot Ron
    You need to use No. 9 size copper rivets with burrs, about 5/8 to 3/4 inches long, depending on the thickness of leather you are using.
  6. Goldshot Ron
    Tom, Hopper's book is a good reference source. It covers everything from making chaps to saddle bags, and strap goods. It's a good book to have on your shelf. It isn't a pretty book because it has dated photos and they are in black and white; but for 1/2 price, it is a bargain. There's another book that is well worth the money to have and that is Harry Adams' Saddle Making Book. However, you'd have to order that from his daughter. Ron
  7. Goldshot Ron
    Ron, your horn design looks good. One thing you need to do is hide the hole created by your dividers. If you use a stop on your petal junctions, it'll define the petals and cover the hole. It also appears that you used a lifter on your leaf, but you need to lift the tool more to enhance the raised areas of the leaf.
  8. Goldshot Ron
    I second the suggestion for a leather splitter. I mostly do saddle and tack work, so I'm using heavy leather. I use my splitter almost everyday for splitting down scrap for lacing and straps. When making bridles and halters, you don't have to buy 8-9 oz. sides when you can split down heavy skirting left over from a saddle project.
  9. Goldshot Ron
    Randy, the stirrup leather piece of your fenders should line up with the flat area at the top of your fenders. The front line should be straight in line with the front edge of the flat area at the top of your fender. Ron
  10. Goldshot Ron
    Ron, The last photo I used is a plate that I've used for inskirt rigging. On flatplate I use the 5053 plate. I mentioned the plugs so that the rigging looks flat, but it does help with sewing, especially when using a machine. I've recently seen where highend tack will use fillers on straps to account for the added dimensions of hardware when machine sewing up to the hardware to make the stitchline look neater. Randy, I'm no expert, but I hate reinventing the wheel. I'm currently working on what I call my California Style saddle. I've redoned the seat twice, completely remade the cantle back twice, and lord knows how the taps will go. It will have a fair amount of tooling, and design and appearance has been difficult. I've used techniques from: the Stohlman's, Troy West, J. Watt, Al Gould, Steve Brewer; and, designs from Pedro Pedrini, Cary Schwarz, Gordon Andrus, and Ray Holes Saddery to give credit to just a few people. So hurry up with your next saddle so I can use your ideas. Ron
  11. Goldshot Ron
    Your tooling looks great. I like your edges. Also, the beading around your borders came out good. I think you're coming along really well. I've only a couple of suggestions on your rigging for the next saddle. The stitching on the plate extends a little too far up on the fork area. This may affect your ability to make skiving adjustments when you attach the plate to the tree. Also, if you add some filler pieces around your rigging plate bars, it will help with sewing when you pick up a machine. It will also give you a flatter appearance when finished, but I don't think the fillers will give you any extra strength, just visual. I've attached a photo to discribe what I'm suggesting; however, this is a different style of rigging plate. Ron
  12. Goldshot Ron
    Another site to check is Mcmaster-Carr. I purchase most of my screws and nails from them. Their service is usually quick, and prices seem fair. Ron
  13. Goldshot Ron
    The distance of the rear flank cinch attachment point in relationship to the saddle skirts will be determined by form, style (and rigging style), and function. It is my opinion that the fold of the flank cinch billet should pivot on the skirts and not the horse. So, I can't say that there is a definite rule for ring placement. This is Tom Dorrance's old Wade saddle. The flank cinch is placed where I try to place my billets. The billet fold is pivoting on the skirt. If you search Dale Harwood you'll see some traditional views for Wade saddles and how he places rear billets. This should help you with your Wade. Ron
  14. Goldshot Ron
    CW, I like your stamping, especially the back cantle cover. The saddle has very clean lines. One question is how did you determine the placement of the hobble loop? And, one comment, this may just be the photo, but your back string conchos seem to be higher than the front conchos. My concern would be that this might affect saddle bag placement in the future. Looks good, and the bead on the rought out came out well, and adds aesthetic value. Ron
  15. Goldshot Ron
    There are several saddle critiques on this site, and I would suggest to search them out. Troy West, Steve Mason, and Steve Brewer are three of the names that I'd search for. They are three really good saddle makers, and their comments are really helpful toward form and design. Back to the shop, good luck!!!
  16. Goldshot Ron
    RDL, After rereading your post I have a suggestion on your skirts. Don't cut your skirts to the finished pattern until after blocking them. Every maker has a different technique, but I cut my center line or top part of the skirts first to make sure I have enough room for the handhole screw and the rear lacing area. Then I block the skirts. After they dry, then I determine how the bottom line will look and the front and back lengths. With that said, I measured a saddle that I'm working on, and the distance from the corner of the cantle at the front down to the bottom of the skirts is 6 1/4 inches. I try to keep my flank cinch billet fold on the saddle skirt and off of the horse's side. My skirts are usually butterfly style, so I think you and I are similar in what we're trying to achieve. Randy...my first saddle has brought me more customers than any other saddle that I've built. Don't sell yourself short with your first one. Ron
  17. Goldshot Ron
    I can't answer your question about width of the seat. I built this saddle for a female, and she has never complained about the seat. As I was building it, as I've done with all of my saddles, I make them to feel good on my skinny butt. That's what you'll have to do. I was impressed that the Laporte seat felt good without anything on it. The father of the fellow who makes Laportes builds a low weight saddle using very little leather. So, my answer would be, do what feels best to you. Good luck.
  18. Goldshot Ron
    I suggest you start over on your skirts, which by the way I read your post, you'll have to buy another side of skirting. Your photos appear that the rear of the skirts are too small to fit your rigging. It doesn't look like the rear jockeys will be symmetrical will the front jockeys; and, you won't be satisfied if you just make do to save money. Skirts for ranch saddles should be more full and give more weight distribution on the hores's back. The other possible solution would be to use Stohlman's ring style rigging. It doesn't have the bulk that flatplate has; however, your flank cinch dee still will look too low in regards to your skirt. Again, this may just be the photo, but I can't count how many times that I settled on "good enough" just to kick myself later for actually settling for my frugality. Ron
  19. Goldshot Ron
    It's been a few years, but I've attached some photos during construction. I tacked in stirrup leather spacers in the slots on the seat. I only covered the seat with one layer of leather to cover and skive out any bumps. The saddle had a cheyenne roll. You'll need a roll filler. My final seat was padded, so I didn't use the regular 3 ground seat layers. I also glued leather to the underside of the saddle and brought up the leather to cover the seat in the handhole. I hope this helps, Ron
  20. Goldshot Ron
    First, if your Martin saddle is a roping saddle, where are the present dees located? Is your saddle inskirt rigged or drop dee style rigging? Inskirt rigging, I'd suggest using a pulling collar that has the collar billets that go through the hand hole and around the fork. It gives strength and doesn't require adding dees. If you have a drop dee style rigging, you can attach your clip and dees to the rigging plates using no. 9 copper rivets. Another way is to attach the clip and dees to the skirts at a position that is desirable for your collar. However, this doesn't offer the strength that you'll need, and the head of the rivet would be showing on the wool side of the skirts (simple way). Hard way would require taking out seams, riveting and resewing.
  21. Goldshot Ron
    Randy, what you'll find is that saddle pads are only 29 to 31 inches in length. Last year I built a saddle that I thought looked good, and it was based on a design of Pat Parreli's saddle. The skirts were too long for the clients pad and his horse. I ended up making new skirts; and, the finished product now fit the clients horse; but, didn't look the way that I had envisioned.
  22. Goldshot Ron
    Randy, I've used Stohlman's design now for seven years. I've read that his design wasn't level, etc.. So, I parked my horse on a flat place and set a bare tree on her. I took a 3 ft. level and set it on the horn and measured up from the cantle to the level. (It takes four hands, but is do-able.) I then went into the shop and reversed the process on my stand. It wasn't that far off (if at all). However, the modification that I did make was to add some saddle seat foam to the rear of the stand to better simulate a horses loin area, and hold the rear of the bars in a more secure position. The foam does raise the rear of the tree up some, but not 2 inches. Ron
  23. Goldshot Ron
    Randy, Your saddle looks good. A thousand in materials is pretty average any more. I, like you, make about fifty cents an hour. But, it is a thrill to finish a saddle and sit in it for the first time on your horse. Have you worked with leather prior to attempting this first saddle? I think your stamped border looked good. Now, you need to purchase the Jeremiah Watt dvd and get a whole different perspective on saddle making. Ron
  24. Goldshot Ron
    Tom, Think of the preinstalled ground seat as you would your regular metal groundseat. How does it feel on your rear? As Josh said, you need to determine how much build up you want in the front and seat comfort. If you are going to install a padded seat, then that will determine your build up. LaPorte and Chicago Stock Yard trees would require less underlayment than a tree with an added plastic ground seat. Most of the molded trees (Ralide, Laporte, etc.) have dimples in the seat area between the cantle and bars. You need to fill in these dimples, this will require a second groundseat piece to smooth out the bumps. Ron
  25. Goldshot Ron
    Are you looking for a simple noseband attached to a poll strap that fits under the bridle?
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