Goldshot Ron

Check out Luberto #9 machine in the New Category for sewing machines. Beaumont, CA not far for you to go.

Do you want to duplicate the leashes shown on the website? If not, I'd suggest using a 12-14 oz. harness leather back. Using copper rivets for the hand loop and attaching the snap. You can make this using a strap cutter, rivets, rivet setter, and a no. 3 edger. After using edger rub your edges to a smooth surface. Finish by rubbing a conditioner into the leash, example Oakwood Leather Conditioner. Simple without major tool cost.

Since no one has responded, and I would imagine that you'd like to move on, I'll give you some suggestions. First, your design always comes back to the center because your stems and leaves are not flowing as you would find them in nature. Flowers grow from a source, and the stems and leaves move from that source. Your drawing starts with the center flower growing out of thin air. There's no source for the flower; thus, your stems flow from the flower. Start your stems from a lower corner and grow from there. Eventually ending with the center flower as your focal point and finale. There's more to recommend with your drawing, but first things first. Good Luck, Ron

Thanks for the info. Josh. You bags look really good. I'm working on a design for a pommel bag with a holster covered by the flap. I'm leaning toward using a buckled strap, but it is actually attached on one end with a button for a quick thumb release for quicker draw of the pistol. Have you seen anything like that? Ron

The strap running through two slots in the flap appears to be a hold over from cavalry bags. The leather that was used in cavalry bags wasn't a heavy veg tanned leather, and the straps over the flap gave it some support. To replace the straps when a horse chews them requires sewing, so I think riveted straps are easier to replace. Also Josh, is your bag with the gun have a pouch on the gun side, or is it just a holster covered by the flap? Ron

This machine is good for heavier leather, 10 oz. plus. But is hard to adjust for lighter leather, and requires more attention to use. (Second above comments). Leather Machine makes a good machine for less money and is easier to use. There was a Cobra for sale in San Pedro a while back, check used machines on this site for information. Ron

Did you ever figure out your lap skiver adjustments? I just picked up a Landis 30 lap skiver, and I'm trying to figure out how to adjust it to skive the edges of chap leather to make my horn wraps. Also, the blade was sharpened on both sides instead of one side like most splitters. Is there a correct way, or is it up to one's preference? Ron

I usually use rubber cement for lining belts and straps, this avoids the sticky mess of contact cement. But, for my contact cement I put some in a plastic water bottle with a good lid and I use a piece of wool shearling to spread it. I find this better and cleaner than using a brush and a can. Once the glue sets and the leather pieces are set, I use a piece of rubber crape sole (just a scrap piece of the old opaque rubber sole off of a shoe) to rub off the excess glue along the edges and any string pieces. A shoe repairman gave me this tip years ago, along with the piece of rubber. I've used the same piece for over 10 years. Ron

Saddle looks good. What are some of the specs.? Tree maker, type of leather, etc.. Are you entering this into the Pendleton Leather Show saddle contest?

John, Re-fleecing a saddle is always a worry for me. People don't realize that the fleece raises the saddle higher than what they are use to, and it has to be broken in again. Was the original fleece real or artificial? What type of rigging is on the saddle? I believe this all has a role to play in how things fit after repairs. I did a saddle for a gal a while back, and she complained that her blankets kept squirting out the back and wouldn't stay in place. I re-fleeced the saddle, and this time I reversed the direction of the fleece and made sure that she knew it. I had even showed her several articles written by experienced saddle makers on how they position the fleece on the skirts. (As you know, every maker has a different opinion.) I let her tell me which direction she wanted. I put on the new fleece at my expense, and never heard from her again. Don't know if she was ever satisfied, but sometimes you can do just so much. It's all a learning experience, and I figure that in another 50 or so years, I might be half way there. Ron

I see that Springfield Leather has a pattern pack for collars. It shows a dee style and solid fixed over the shoulder designs. These pattern packs are a start; then you can adjust from there. Ron

Looks good Randy. You must have been working overtime on it. It seems like you were just stamping the rigging plates. Your basket weave looks good. And, since you are entering it in a contest, I won't critique anything. However, one suggestion, buy a Jeremiah Watt cantle binding edger to trim under the roll. Its worth the money and eliminates some frustration when finishing the Cheyenne rolls. Good luck in the contest. Ron

It looks like a stamp by Wayne Jueshke out of Nevada.

Joel, Missed reading your comments, and seeing your work. Haven't met anyone in the local area who does saddle work any more; but, I'll put the word out on your draw down stand. If you have any good stamps (King, Bob Beard or Hackbarth) I'd be interested. Sorry to hear you downsizing the shop. Ron PS...Randy, I agree with the other guys, dye your edges; even the chestnut skirting. You don't have to wait too long after dying to the edges. When the edge is still damp (from the dye), rubbing the edge with your cloth will quickly give you a shiny edge. Just make sure that you are not rubbing it into the undyed area.

Randy, I applaud your attempt here. It sounds funny, but filling a blank space like you are considering, allows you to practice your tooling. At the same time adding an artistic touch to your work. Now to the acorns, the empty shell adds flavor to the work. However, the sample you showed does look like an old innertube. Just draw 3 acorns, and erase the nut, then make a cut where the shell would be on the back side of the nut. One other consideration would be to make your leaves slightly larger so that they cover the convergence of the stems. This allows the viewer to use their imagination as to how the design flows. I've added a doodle that kinda shows what I'm suggesting. Ron

Big Horn Saddlery makes a good endurance saddle with a western look; and, there is a maker called Stonewall Saddles (located in So. California) that make a nice endurance saddle at a reasonable price. Stonewall Saddles is more likely to design a saddle specially for you. You mentioned cable rigging; I believe Freckers saddlery (in Idaho?) can make you a cable rigged saddle without a horn. However, cable rigged trees are only made by two brothers: one is called LaPorte saddle trees (out of Cheyenne, Wy.) and the other is LiteRide or Chicago Stockyard Saddle Trees. Both makers use composite trees and can install the cable when the tree is made. I personally have used a Big Horn endurance saddle for over 30 years. It has worked well with Arabs, Appys, and Walkers. It's cheap enough for you to take it to a saddle maker and have him/her to do any custom modifications you'd like, and a shop in Canada is more than likely to carry this brand. I would recommend staying away from flex-style trees. Ron

Looks really good. I don't see a flaw. Your stitching looks great. Did you use a pricking iron or diamond awl? I make quite a few rounds for horse gear, and your rounded handles look excellent. I've only installed one zipper in the past, and it was a pain. Your's looks professional. Did you design the pattern for the bag? That's a talent in itself. Kudos. Ron

Looks good Randy. I thought Howard Council was a saddle maker, what is unique with this type of tree? I see a lot of improvements in your work, and it looks like you have a good feeling for what you are doing. I do have a few comments or questions: the rope strap looks awkward, the placement of the front rosettes are a little low on the jockey, your horn edge could be rubbed out more, and (I say this because I took a hit in a contest on this) your wool needs to be trimmed better to give a nicer appearance. Your stitching looks really good, and the stamping of the skirts and jockeys look uniform, and blend in quite well with the Carlos Meander border. If you haven't ordered Cary Schwarz' Cantle Binding DVD, I highly recommend doing so. It'll help improve your Cheyenne Rolls, not saying yours is bad, but I bet you are still sweating the task. Look forward to see saddle number 6. Ron

I just checked YouTube...there are plenty of "how to" videos there to watch and learn how to hand stitch leather. Also, what type of thread are you using? Are you waxing your thread prior to sewing?

You need to buy a book on sewing leather. Tandy has one that was written by Al Stohlman. Cary Schwarz has a CD for sewing, and there are a few others. You should be using the two needle method called saddle stitching or a "handy stitcher". The only knots or half hitches used to secure your stitching would be at the end of your stitching or at splicing. Also, in the instructional materials, it shows how to affix your thread to your needle. You DON'T tie a knot to affix the needle to the tread.

Charlie, First buy a saddle making book for direction: Stohlman's Encyclopedia of Saddle making or Harry Adam's book to name a couple. These books will give you all the information needed to make repairs. Second, determine if this saddle is worth repairing. What is the skirting condition, is the rigging safe and does it fit your horse, how will this saddle be used (pleasure riding, kids, roping, mountain trails, etc.), and who was the maker of the saddle? These are some considerations you need to determine. Looking at your photos, tell me that this is not an expensive saddle and the materials in the saddle look dry and worn. The rigging looks like it may need some attention. Also, the stirrup leathers appear to be about 2" in width, and double tongued buckles are used for adjustments. Anyway, I am always, first, concerned about saddle safety for the horse and rider, and then what needs to be repaired. The repairs you mentioned would cost, if performed by a technician, any where from $150 to $200. If you tried to repair it, expect to spend $300 plus for materials, tools, and instructional materials. I'm not trying to dissuade you from trying and learning, but giving you more information to determine the direction in which you may want to go. Ron

Josh, Your work looks very good. The design of the bags looks well planned and functional. Your dee attached to the buckle strap is something that I haven't seen before. The binding along the top of the opening looks good and adds a touch of class. My only question would be: are the bags deep enough to hold a couple of beers? Ron

Thanks Ron for the rigging photo. I used a similar rigging on a saddle last Fall. I like to use lugs for the skirts, and this design works great. I'm still riding the first saddle I made, and my flank cinch dees were set back by my lack of knowledge. I've used this saddle extensively on a large Quarter Horse mare, and she would buck occasionally. Recently I have been using a Colorado Saddlery with the flank cinch sitting more forward, and she seems to give me less trouble. I now use my first saddle on a smaller QH gelding, and I can definitely see that the FC is too far back on him. He hasn't bucked, but he is a mellow "old man's" horse. Thanks, Ron

Randy, I have found Jeremiah's method to work the best for me. I've tired Stohlman's methods, paper patterns, rubber type plate patterns, and a few other's who I don't want to name. One thing to mention in regards to the cantle ear cut when putting in a Cheyanne Roll, the ear tab needs to be lower on a Cheyanne Roll than on a straight up cantle. I've yet to see where anyone has addressed this issue. Please feel free to quote any sources on this procedure. Ron

Ron, The saddle looks good. Your cantle stitching looks good. Have you tired rubbing out the awl mark? You could blame it on a Levi pocket rivet and a rowdy colt. One comment is that your flank cinch dee is wandering back some. Also, I'm waiting to see photos of your rigging under the fenders. Toot's pattern tip sounds worth trying.