Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tack'.
Found 51 results
-
Padded bridle and reins for a special gelding from our breeding program. Hermann Oak bridle leather, stamped steel bridle buckles from Weaver, and lots of nylon thread. Hand sewn.
-
Hey all…happy new year. Im still downsizing and here is the rest of my leatherworking hardware. I have counted most of the items along with added part numbers for those of you wanting to know what left. Many of the hardware is from Weaver, some from Mast and some from my local supplier. I separated most of the hardware into labeled baggies and some of the hardware have been just tossed into the same baggy. Most of the hardware is English bridle hardware and/or halter hardware since it what is repaired or made the most of. But I think you will find a mix of other hardware too. Browse the list and see if the 2 boxes are of any interest to you or worth it to you. Note, the parts are in 2 Large USPS Priority Mail – FLAT RATE – boxes. So the total shipping for both will be $46.00 Im putting a price of 30 USD for all of the hardware + the 46 for shipping so a TOTAL of 76.00 USD. I would prefer a USPS Money Order, but will consider other forms of payment. Only serious inquiries, please and im not interesting in busting up the bunch for someone wanting onesies and twosies…sorry. i have attached some photos of the hardware too. The photos are not of everything but most of whats in the 2 boxes. I have also attached a excel listing too. Thanks for looking… FIRST - I WILL TAKE IT, GETS IT. PLEASE REPLY TO POST AND STATE SO. THAT WAY OTHERS WILL KNOW ITS TAKEN. ALSO, IF PAYMENT DOESNT SHOW, THEN IT WILL GO TO THE NEXT PERSON. ALSO, this is only for USA, Alaska and Hawaii. Sorry for anyone outside... Also, keep looking...i will be selling off my tools and equipment soon... if any of you are thinking im scamming anyone, if Shadybrook is still around ask him. He got everything but what i have here for free. But he had to pay the shipping & customs from the USA. LEATHER STUFF FEB2023 PDF.pdf
-
Thought I'd share the methods I've pieced together for making a triple stitched halter with a rolled throatlatch (link below). I've benefitted greatly from the advice of members of this forum and hope others find this information useful. I welcome your suggestions, corrections, alternative methods, etc. Thanks for looking. ellenberger-halter-methods.pdf
-
The supply chain has sorted itself out after almost 1 year, and I was able to buy more of my favorite brass hardware for halters. This is a late Christmas present for my co-worker. She and I are in the equine care and sanitation business. My prior administrative job prepared me well for shoveling horse$#it.
-
"I only want to see you riding in the purple reins." Couldn't resist. Yesterday's project was replacing the buckle ends of a friend's reins. Torn in two. Got a pretty good color match with existing - that's dark brown Fenice Colorfast dye. These rubber grips are nylon webbing coated with rubber. A piece of web inserts into a split in the leather strap and is sewn in place. I prefer grips that slide over a continuous leather strap. The cuffs covering the junction of leather strap and rubber grips are a little different than existing but I think they'll pass inspection.
-
A little bit of Hermann Oak bridle leather, and a lot of thread.
-
Taking a break from hand sewing to practice machine sewing raised leather straps (again). Think I'm making progress with inline presser feet from @CowboyBob on my 441 clone. I've been able to sew tight to the raised filler and maintain a 1/8" border. Took me a while to adjust the presser foot timing to my liking, but now it's a quick change over between the inline feet and the regular center/side feet. Very happy with these compact feet for sewing tight to an edge. Took a little practice to smoothly back out of the corners, so that the rear foot has a place to land. The raised pieces are made from 2 pieces of bridle leather, split to 3 oz for the cover and 7 oz for the back. I use a veg tan filler piece 1/4" or 3/8" wide on these straps, and figure about 1/4" (2 x 1/8") of additional width for the cover wrapping around the sides of the filler. I glue the cover and shape it with a glass slicker and bone folder then sew and trim the edges before finishing the edges. I will use raised leather for bridle nosebands/browbands, dog collars, and belts. I've been sewing these by hand, but getting closer to production by machine sewing.
-
I've been doing some leather tack repairs and wanted some feedback on how others may go about certain repairs. I have a English girth that needs the elastic replaced. The leather pieces holding the buckles to the elastic are in decent condition. Do others replace the leather piece when replacing the elastic? or do you try to reuse the leather if in good condition with hand stitching? I can do hand stitching and I have a Techsew 4800 I can use also. And what about on the other end? hand sew in same holes with needles & awl? or machine sew. I am very wary of using a machine to sew on leather with previous holes.
-
Halter with padded crown and nose band, and a rolled throat strap. Hermann Oak bridle leather in havana. Supply chain has me waiting for more heavy brass hardware, so I guess I'll learn something new.
-
Does anyone have any good tips- with legitimate reasoning why you use one or the other for the type of leather you use to make 8' split reins with water loops? I have used both- latigo seems to be easier to get heavier sides (thicker reins) and I am always impressed by the durability, but I like the way bridle/ harness finishes and is much more pliable. I have thought about doubling up lighter weight latigo and stitching but together but I also feel this is a somewhat unnecessary step especially when there isn't much of a return for spending a lot of time on reins. If I were to double and stitch say something in the ball park of 7/8 oz. H.O. latigo- should I apply barges in between? Or add anything in the ends for weight? Do you hot dip? What temp do you like to put your oil at? Thanks in advance
-
First time making a horse bridle.
-
looking to make a few single ear loop headstalls- nothing fancy but sturdy and clean for everyday ranch use. I have been thinking of using H.O. 7/8 oz. Bridle leather doubled up and stitched for strength then buttered and hot oiled for feel and durability. I am getting stuck on the ear loop. It seems your general store-bought options are "ok" and functional but I saw a couple in Vegas last year that were rolled, almost hiding the stitching. I really liked this because it was really really well-made. The extra steps to round off and roll the loop made it less stiff but almost seemed stronger- if that makes sense? In addition, I really like how it would lay on the horses head as opposed to the general flat,strap-like generic ear loops. Now my issue is I should have just bought it so I could dissect it and see how it was done. Has anyone seen a loop like this? Do you have any processes for making them? What kind of leather do you prefer for headstalls/ bridles and how do you oil yours for that supple yet durable feel? Thank you all in advance.
-
Hey y’all!! I’m looking to start a horse tack painting business, and I can’t find much information on the painting part specifically for tack. I don’t want to make my own tack, I just want to buy it wholesale and paint it. I know I need leather paint, the tack needs to already be tooled and all that, but what else do I need to know? Somebody mentioned today at my work that I couldn’t paint already made tack because it was oiled? Is that true? If it is, is there something I can do about it or somewhere I can buy already tooled tack that hasn’t been oiled? All I can find is tack blanks that haven’t been tooled and haven’t been made into the whole piece yet.I painted a tooled belt using regular acrylic paint and have worn it almost daily for a couple months, it it still looks great other than where the buckle holes are. Any help I can get would be great! Thank y’all in advance!!
-
Hello everyone, I recently moved from Montana to Oregon. Specifically, I moved near Albany, in Linn County. When I lived in Montana, I was being taught how to make a saddle by a great guy. Unfortunately, I had to move short notice and wasn't able to get very far. I would like to find someone local to me that would be willing to teach me. I have the Stohlman books and I could probably find some videos, but I would much rather have someone with experience that I could ask questions to and get to know. I also don't have every tool that a person needs. I'm happy to pay and/or help out with any chores that need done. If anyone knows someone like this I would love to be connected with them! Thanks in advance
-
Hi I have a strip of Sedgwick English bridle leather in Dark Havana. I’m from Australia and wanting to have a go at making stock horse bridles, just work ones to start with but would like to make some good enough to show horses in eventually. My problem is the leather I have is very shiny, almost glossy on top. Other bridles I’ve seen by well known makers don’t seem to have quite the shine on their bridles that this leather has. Have I brought the wrong type of leather? Help !!!
-
Does anyone have patterns/ schematics for draft harnesses/ bridles/ and lead lines?!
-
Hi there, I'm a newbie leatherworker. I've made a few small projects and have been sort of learning as I go. My latest project has been bronc nosebands. I'm just having some trouble with getting them to "shape" to the horses nose curve. I have 6/7oz tooling leather that I have been working with, and I have sewn 2 pieces together to get a good thickness. But then I've found that I cant get it to wrap down across the nose as it's so thick, it just wont bend. (I hope this makes sense) So the next one I made I wet formed into a U shape first and then sewed together. Which did give me the shape I wanted but was really tricky to sew. So my question is: what is the best way to go about this? Should I be using just a single piece of heavier leather? Or using something lighter/more flexible as the backing? Thank you for any input!
-
Does anyone have any good- moderately priced but high quality Concho & Buckle suppliers? Looking for 1/2"; 3/4"; & 1" size buckles and larger conchos: say 2" and larger? I specifically do not want them to look like the cheap Tandy stuff. Thanks
-
So I’m new to leather working, I’ve been hand stitching my projects but it’s SO tedious! I’d like to get a sewing machine, but the ones I’m seeing are over $1,000? I usually use 2 layers of 8 Oz leather for my breast collars and a layer of 8 Oz and a layer of 5-6oz for inlays on the bridles I make. I don’t want a machine that barely gets through the leather, I’ve seen a few that sew 1/4” leather well (or they’re advertised to do so). Is that enough? Or do I need to get something more heavy duty? Any advice on what brands are good and what price range they’re in (around $500 would be best, but i know it’s a long shot)
-
Hello Everyone, I am new to leather work and have been making small accessories for about a year. I ultimate goal is to make horse tack for barrel racing or possibly heavy leather hand bags. I am looking at investing into a leather sewing machine, what should I be looking for? What machines will work for me? I plan to make breast collars, halters, nose bands, etc. Let me know what you think. Thanks in Advance, Jessica
-
Hello, again! Yeah, I've been busy. Just finished up some spur straps and a breast collar for me and my horse Patty. I did the tooling on the breast collar to match my saddle. Spur straps are 8/9 oz. veg tan and the breast collar is 10/12 oz. saddle skirting (Tandy) and lined with 5/6 oz. latigo. I went on a long ride and the collar worked great and seemed pretty comfortable for the horse so I'm happy with it. Let me know what you think. Critique welcome. Thanks for looking! -Ryan
-
Hello all! I've recently taken in interested in leathercraft and would love some advice from others as to where I should start, particularly when it comes to figuring out which leather I should be buying. So far I've just been practicing carving, stitching, and dyeing and have made a tooled passport cover which some veg tanned leather I bought on Amazon -- which I will never do again! The leather was stiff and very difficult to stamp and carve. It almost seemed like there was some kind of coating on it as it. I see now why it was so cheap... As an avid horse person, my interests are in definitely tack making, so I'd like to start making simple projects such as wither straps, bronc halters, spur straps, and eventually headstalls. I've seen a few people suggest harness leather for projects such as these, I also see "bridle leather" available on several online leather supply stores. Is there much of a difference? What kind of thickness should I be using for these projects? Can anyone recommend the best type (and brand) of leather for projects like this that won't break the bank? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!! -
I am looking at getting another machine. I have a heavy stitching machine Cobra Class 4. Now I am looking for one that is more versatile I have used a Cobra Class 20 and really liked it but am also looking at a Juki 1508H I can buy local. I have heard the Juki is a little more versatile. Thoughts?
-
I apologize if this is in the wrong place. I haven't been on here in a blue moon or two. I'm looking for a pulling style breast collar pattern with a dee ring center. It'll be send to a friend who has no experience in horse tack, but is great with all things leather. If I had my own tools and leather with me, I'd make one myself, but the downstairs neighbors don't appreciate the noise generated. Thanks everyone!
-
Hello, I'm looking for a trusted saddle maker to make me a quality custom saddle. I'm looking for a tough ranch saddle with swells, roughout seat and round skirt. Preferably on the lighter side, but heavy duty. I'm 17 and only work part time so I'm trying to not pay much more than $1,000-$1,500. Any ideas of someone who could make me something like that in my price range? Thanks in advance!
