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$$hobby

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About $$hobby

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/28/1961

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    rcnuts@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon, NW, USA, PNW, Americas, Earth, SOL, 3rd Planet,45°34'05.5"N 122°41'36.8"W 45.568187, -122.693547
  • Interests
    Horses, guns, horses and more guns.

    did i mention leatherwork? Not doing so much leather work now. Trying to downsize some of my life and keep on working, saving for retirement and travel.

    More Travel now. Less horses unless i can pickup a ride on my travels.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    so far, lots of english tack repairs, brow bands, holsters, gun belts and anything i may want to make.
  • Interested in learning about
    horses, saddle making.....

Recent Profile Visitors

12,529 profile views
  1. welcome, sometimes you need to work at it to get what you want. heres where i will shop locally.... i will let you take it from there... note im downsizing and have not been there for any supplies other than glue. https://oregonleatherco.com/ i also get some stuff from here too. Note, if you are not sure about some fabrics/zippers, i was able to get a "sample" swatch of various colors/sizes...ect. They are not free, but at least you can do the touchy/feely and get an idea on size/shape. https://www.seattlefabrics.com/ I also used to buy from weaver. Dont know if you have their catalog or not, but you may want to look them up and see if anything interests you. also, when it comes to things, you may want to BUILD UP your REFERENCE LIBRARY. You may not want "books" but i find them handy.
  2. i didnt read all of the replies... but imo, what it comes down to will is what you are trying to cut, how thick and what you are using. if you are going to use any of those disposable type blades, then dont be cheap and keep on using 1 for months on end. Replace with new often. how often? well you will figure that out as soon as you replace with a new one. when i started in leatherwork it was in Jr High. My instructor had a really nice and SHARP head knife. NO ONE was allowed to touch it since it was his personal tool. but when it came to cutting the leather, it cut it like butter. It looked effortless and he knew how to use it too. So, if you want to, get one and put a good edge on it and learn how to use it. Also, if you go that far as to buy one, then learn how to put an edge on it anyway since a tool like that works best when its sharp. also, not sure what you are making and how important the cut/line is, but no one really knows you screwed up except yourself. But with your description of your "choppy" it appears you are starting/stopping alot?. again, try using a new blade every so often and go from there. last comments.... > how's the lighting in your work area? If you have harsh direct lighting, you may have shadows to deal with. > cutting surface? depending on what you are cutting on, it may catch your knife point too.
  3. $$hobby

    WTB Scrap leather

    welcome, have you looked at any leathershops in your area? or any upholstery shops? ones that may do leather upholstery? or used Craigslist/ebay. or checked with any leathercrafters in your areas? you may find someone local so you dont need to pay for shipping. good luck
  4. something else.... > sometimes you are your own worse critic too. Do you have any Saturday Markets, flea markets, gun shops/shows, anyplace you may see the type of work you want to do? Look at what others are doing/making and see if yours is up to snuff or if you put yours side-by-side, would you pick one over the other? could you see any difference? I did ALOT of bridle repair/mods. So what it came down to was swapping brass for stainless or the other way around. Or shortening/remaking something or a fix. But for the most part, the customer knew what they wanted so all i needed to do was to make it happen. No one i know of ever complained. also, you are sort of vague in what you are doing/want. Maybe thats on purpose or its how you think? Maybe you dont have a clear vision in what you want to do, so it comes out in your hands/projects? good luck
  5. Free to a good home.... You pay shipping via USPS Priority Mail medium box .....$16.00 im downsizing my life and hobbies. Here are my last subs to LC&SJ. V 27, No. 3~6 V 28, No. 1~6 No. 1 has some spine/top damage. Text is readable. V 29, No. 1 ~6 V 30, No. 1~6 V 31, No. 1 If you want these, please reply stating you will take so others will know they missed out. And then PM me with your address so i can get them out. thanks for looking.
  6. if you have AADD, Adult - Attention Deficit Disorder , not much you can do. No one comes out of the womb knowing how to do everything. Everyone starts at 0. you need to figure out what motivate/works for you. I found out that im not perfect and dont pick things up on the 1st try. So what i have learned about myself is that it takes repetition and doing again and again and again. How long you ask? Until. "Until" is up to you or someone judging your work. But it was just me and my standards. I had books to use and look at the pictures to judge/compare my work against such as the saddle stitching. Easy peasy. And with other things i have done in the past, over time and repetition, i have found i became better at what i was doing. Sometimes you have an ah-ha moment or something just clicks to where you know youve done it right. I tried the leather carving too. My leahtercarving sucks. I tried it several times but im not willing to take more time so i dont. ALso just an fyi, i was an architecture student and my sketches of people looked the same as my leather carving - sucks. Stick figure ish. Buildings and objects were great, but something wrong with my wiring someplace. So all of my leather projects are plain. But the are easier to make. I could do some stamping, but didnt want to get into that either. I still make mistakes and know i will do so till im burried. But its life and i know that. My 1st projects were in jr highschool where i was introduced into leathercraft. If you see any of the old? starter leathercraft kits you will note they had various flat leather shapes to make things. Such as keyfobs. I think there was a hair barrette and some other things... but for the most part were flat. not alot of stitching/sewing. We did make some coin purses and some wallets. All of them were "kits" so all you needed to do was to follow the path. What will happen to you is that if you dont improve your skills now, eventually something or a project will force you to. Ive made a SLR camera case with some heavy leather and using sole leather on the top/bottom. Try stitching sole leather with an awl. I tried, but eventually had to use a dremel and pre-drill the holes. Then on top of that i lined it with some closed cell phone and cordura. I made bags that were a mix of leather and cordura and a bookpack with both too. that pack lasted me through college and then some. just remember, many things are a "do over" so keep that in mind when you do something or a hobby. It may cost you some money and time, but if you are willing to learn/try, then do what you need to do and keep an open mind. If you want and if you have access to some leather shops in your area, look for some large "scrap" leather to buy and practice on. If you can, look for pieces you can use to make "prototpyes" and such. I have used some heavy poster board to make prototpyes and patterns. Again, thinking outside the box to help in your skills. If you screw up, evaluate why. Just dont toss and start over. Maybe even keep that and finish up the project to verify the end product will work as intended. On my 1st holster i made, it was for a friends Browning High power. So i made a pattern, cut the leather and started stitching. I wanted to lace it togeather too instead of saddle stitch and it was a PIA. Ive laced thin leather, but i never laced an edge ~ 1/2 inch wide, so i had to learn on the fly how to to it. I did use some scrap and build up to the thickness needed to practice on too. And to top it off i made it a left handed holster. I forgot to flip the patten over or the leather over. ever since then, when i make a holster, i will forget to flip the pattern and always end up making a left hand holster. but in my friends case, he was left handed and it worked out in the end. imo, i think its more important you keep on doing. How you will learn and improve your skills is up to you and either you will do it when you want or outside forces will make you do it. Again, its your choice.
  7. welcome, you may want to expand your references and get some leather books. If you want to make "cases" there are some books on "cases" if you want and they have info such as nomenclature. have fun.
  8. welcome if you have any book stores where you live, you may want to check there first. even calling/emailing/texting.... its so easy now to check before you go. you know what you want and it makes it that much easier. Also, you dont need to buy alot of books. to me, its not difficult for somethings, but im more mechanical minded and think outside the box. If you think of a bag as a sack or something similar, you maybe able to get idea of how it could be built/assembled. you dont say what type of bags you want to make, but to me its sort of moot. Once you get 1 or 2 reference material, then review them and see how its done. Again, to me extrapolating what is shown and then applying to what i want is the next step. Sort of OT. > my bucket seats upholstery on an earlier car was worn so i wanted to play and remake the seat upholstery. I wanted to use something cool like Pendleton Wool and found a local outlet store. But what did i use for a pattern? i used the passenger seat! And just flipped the pattern over for any seat adjustment controls. easy-peasy. I made all of my oops on the passenger seat and so the drivers seat was better made/assembled. > when i was sailing, i had alot of gear to move from car to boat. Got tired of making alot of trips, so i made a duffel using some cordura i had alot of. I just made a "box" type duffle. Round ends could have been done, but i decided on a big rectangular box (bag). Zippers were a horse of a different color, but i had to do some thinking/drawing/sketching of how much material to overlap on top or not between the zipper side. i didnt want exposed zippers but some covering over them when it rained. Also, what it came down to is assembling the duffle inside-out. > depending on what you want to make, if you can get your hands on one, turn it inside-out and see how its made. again, easy peasy. > a friend wanted a book backpack made after seeing my bookpack. But he wanted some nicer things like padded straps and more pockets. I had several used/broke/worn out book packs to use as "reverse engineering samples" and thats how i made my pack and my fiends. > if you can get any cheap material to use as "prototype" consider doing so. > if you can draw, try drawing out your ideas. You dont have to be 10000% details on the 1st go around, but doodle details, such as how you will do the zipper or corners. Or how you will do the sides/bottoms. > as a matter of design and thinking outside the box, i try to MINIMIZE seams. Why? because its a wear/weak point. stitching can wear and loosen overtime. you do need seams, but i try to minimize it. > for the most part, if you want to attach things like pockets, you can add the before you assemble the whole project, but that will depend on the type of "bag" you want to make. > i know this is a leather board and chances are you want to use leather. I get that. but remember leather requires CARE. so whatever you decide to make, i would consider CARE. If you dont want to maintain that leather, then i would consider some other material. I mentioned CORDURA and i like using it since its nylon. And it requires minimial/0 care. have fun
  9. welcome, some hints.... i would look for any industrial sewing machine sellers or used machine sellers in your area. Or if you want, nearby countries. You sort of live surrounded by other places that may have what you seek too. but take a sample of the material you want to sew and if its 2 or 3 layers, bring some sample of material so you can test sew on the material you want to sew. If you have a specific thread size, you can bring some of that thread and they will have to put some on a bobbin to test. But you will be able to test using material and thread. whatever features on the machine you want, make sure you make note or however you want to remember. for what its worth, i bought several used machines over years only to find they were did not work as i wanted. I spent alot of money on them and on the total. in the end, buy what you can afford and what you think you will use now and maybe in the future. Last comment. what i noticed is that the limiting factor on a machine was....thread size, pressor foot height, and most was forward/reverse. Since you live in the EU, im not sure what is available there vs the USA. I or we could recommend a model, but if you cant get it there, its moot. As mentioned some machines are clones of other brands too. good luck
  10. regarding conveyor belt... you may want to be careful on whats IN the belt. Some may have some steel webbing inside.
  11. welcome, i get it that it would be cool if you could get the easy answer for things. But this will be something you need to ask the customer and some of its by experience too. consider.... > will the holster be lined? If so, what with? > some people are making dual material holsters now such as Cordura/Leather, like those Cordura/leather saddles. Im surprised it took this long. > some people WANT a holster with no body too! > i made some knife sheaths where they were more or less just suede. No body and no support. Just for show i guess. Chances are you will be making some "oops" holsters where you will screw it up and have to start over. Every time i make a new holster and pattern, i forget to mark what side up for right and left and then what side up flesh/hair side to make a right or left hand holster. Its a (re) learning experience for me. you dont have a location in your profile so i will assume you are in the USA and have some leather shops nearby. But i would go to any leather shops in your area and buy some leather of different thicknesses and do some testing. At my local shop they have barrels full of scraps of various size, shape and leather types inducing furs too. So if im willing, i can rummage through them to find various weights if i want. They also have some "bellies" that have SOME good material left on them to use. I will sometimes get them to make some prototypes/pattens or test various things. If you are going to get into this hobby then you may as well get used to having some leather of various weights on hand. Either for you or for a customer. fwiw, i have from i think 5 oz to 11 oz for various projects i have had over my time doing leather work. Iirc i have used 5 to 8/9oz for my holsters and again, it would depend on what i was making and for whom and if it was lined or not. im sure others will chime in with an answer for you, but i think in the end you will find out the hard way, you will need some various weights.
  12. have you tried to make any X or Y changes in your page setup or scaling?
  13. i just googled for some sewing prototype services..... here are some links. But i will let you contact them if you want and maybe they can help or direct you to what you need/want. note that i have NOT used any of them. I know you want some guarantees but sometimes you will need to test the waters yourself. Before you do anything, i would sit down and have some questions jotted down so you can ask them and be prepared. Shop rate/costs? cost for prototype(S) and how much for 1 or 100000? who provides what, such as materials? who owns the intellectual/property rights such as pattens? any Non disclosure agreement? any non compete agreement? how much up front if any and so forth. good luck... https://www.wcsewco.com/services https://www.bagproducts.com/prototypes/ http://www.protosew.com https://designlinesgear.com again, i have not done what you want or used any of the above, but ive worked for mom & pop shops that made custom automation equipment and you pickup some thing when discussing things in meetings with teh customers. Also, if i were to do what you think you want to do, this is how i would start. Eventually you will to get on that horse and ride - or not. Its just the nature of the beast. some personal comments/hints.. > KNOW WHAT YOU WANT !!!!. I mean that because no mfg wants a customer that wants to change horses mid stream. you may get away with it 1 time, but keep on doing it and watch your cost go way up. > ask (alot) of questions. If you have ANY question ask. And dont walk away until you have that question answered TO YOUR SATISFACTION! > since you will have a prototype, use that as your jump off point. make sure everyone knows its YOURs and your prototype. If you want changes on it, mark it up somehow. Maybe apply some masking tape and write on it with an "arrow - triple stitch here" for example. OR take a photo of each side and the inside and mark up the photos. Dont do the hand waving thing where someone can interpret your ideas - wrong. > if you know the specs of the material such as Cordura 1000 not 500, then i would specify it. Specify everything you can so that there is no question of what you want material wise. If you have any Velcro on your bag, you may want to note there are various grades of velcro. You can get some cheap stuff where it may only last so many cycles. Every have any velcro on something where the fuzzy gives out after so many uses? well, you may have control over that. > there are other things too, but you may have some OTJ learning. good luck and have fun.
  14. Sorry, i dont have first hand experience. I delt with others and have people approach me to make more than 1 item. I think you will be better off looking for someone in the USA so there isnt any duties/customs issues. You will pay more for local talent (less profit for you) so that maybe an issue? I was making some custom brow bands. one off units and someone else approached me to make millions. at the time i was 1 man show with a 9 to 5 job, so making millions wasnt going to happen. Im not sure who the person when to but i mentioned CHINA anyway since alot of tack is sewed (made?) there. I believed that person was able to find someone to do the work but lost contact with that person after they got what they wanted from me. You can contact the person given in the other post and see what they say. If you want more than 1 off, then you are going to have to deal with that and all the issues, suppliers and so forth. Dont forget chances are you will not be their only customer so you will have to play by their rules and timeline/schedule. If you are gung ho, you can start your own business. Im not that driven and is why i work 9 to 5, but i also dont take my work or headaches home with me. Work to live, not live to work so to speak. You can look/find some local people that sew and if you are lucky, they will have their own machines and go from there. I think there are people out there that do things like this and have a network of people to get it from "drawing board" to "reality" but i forget the details. personally i think you are in for some fun. good luck.
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