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About JHLeatherwood

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  • Location
    Jacksonville FL
  • Interests
    Just getting started

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    small stuff & biker accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    getting started
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  1. Making my first wallet from Horween - derby and cavalier of that matters. On past wallets, I've dyed natural beef tan and at the end applies and rubbed in fiebings atom wax /leather balm. I'm not a fan of the resene/mop-n-glo sealers with some. This one has pull-up leather on the outside. Other than a good brush with my horsehair brush, what should I do to the leather to wrap this project up?
  2. Not my shop, not my listing, but wow - I stopped counting after about 12 sewing machines, of every stripe. If I had a mechanic nearby that I trusted, I'd pay a good hourly rate just to go with me and tell me which machine to get. Pfaff, Singers (what's an "S1-60? google didn't help), Consew, Rex, Techsew ... the only thing I didn't see was an Adler or a Cobra. Auction May 22. https://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=3543956 This guy is not one of the top auctioneers in Jax, so I don't know how good his marketing will be. I'm going to guess someone's going to get a deal or two.
  3. Are there any industrial sewing machine dealers in north FL/South GA, or within 100-150 miles of Jacksonville? Looking to buy in mid to late May, most likely. Some random thoughts as I've been considering this. I think I'm settled on the Cobra 26 for a machine to replace the estate-sale Consew 332R I have now. I'd be more than happy to support a forum sponsor (I've talked with Bob and Robert already), but even at $4/gallon, it would be cheaper (and better for me, as a newby) to see and touch the machine before I buy. My tentative budget is about $2,000 ish, and I'd rather get $500 more machine than spend that money on crate and freight. I do some wallets, but mostly bracelets/cuffs, sheaths, and holsters as word is getting out to some of my friends and their families. I like the versatility of a cylinder bed with flat adapter, as I'd like to make motorcycle accessories down the road. Price is of course a consideration, as this is slowly moving from a hobby into a side hustle. Pfaff has a great reputation, but it also sounds like their parts and accessories are expensive. Information overload is a real thing at this point - I think I've read 1,000 threads here and other places. If I've missed an obvious option, please let me know. James
  4. Perfect - thanks for all your help. So the 5 after the x means round point, and the 8 means triangle point. Thanks for clearing that up.
  5. @DonInReno - great info- thank you. I've noticed oil running down the needle, and I already have a small puddle in the drip tray. I don't suppose you know if there's a good-quality electronic or still-in-print Singer manual for a twin to my machine? Like I said to Wiz above, my downloaded manuals are bad scans of mid-'80s translated Japanese technical writing. The only videos I've found specifically for my machine on youtube are less than stellar, too. Thanks for your help!
  6. Great answers - this place is a gold mine! And I appreciate y'all's patience as I learn a Brand New Thing or two. @Wizcrafts the manual says "135x7 #9-#20 (327RB-1 : 135x7 #11 to #22)" on the needle size. The Thread Exchange reference page says the 135x5 and 135x7 are recommended 332 ALL CLASSES EXCEPT 134 DBx1*, 135x5, 135x7, DPx5, SY 1955 I get that the 134 is the Groz-Beckert size scheme. I've looked at way too many cross-reference and needle descriptions, and I'm still confused. I completely trust Bob Kovar, and he sold me the needles in the photo above - it looks to me like they're all "134" (in 16, 19, and 23 to match the 69, 92, and 207 threads I bought). Is there any reason NOT to use the needle Bob sold me? I still don't understand what the number after the "x" means: the manual says to use 135x7, Bob sold me 135x8, and sewing machine repair guy (SMRG) said to use 135x16. To set the needle "length", I look at the manual pages 7 and 8. I understand each of the words they use, but I'm not really following the procedure. It doesn't help that the scanned photos are dark smudges. I'd love to find a better version, or even a good video showing how to set the needle height and timing. Sorry for the wall of text.
  7. So many questions ... I got my Consew 332 "estate sale special" back from the "repair guy" and my confidence in him is shot. So I need help. He installed the GB 125 needle shown. He told me I needed to buy 135x16 needles, and to use 18 or 20 for my 69 and 92-weight threads (starting with 92 on top and 69 in the bobbin). In earlier conversations on here, and after a phone call with Bob @ Toledo, I bought the needles shown in the second photo. They are SIGNIFICANTLY shorter, and appear to be 135x8 - which makes sense why they'd be shorter. This is my first industrial sewing machine, and my first machine in 20+ years. I have the Consew manual (a bad scan of 40-year-old paper), and I'm mechanically minded, so I'm willing to dive in. Should I: Go with the 134s I bought from Toledo, knowing that means I'm going to have to learn how to adjust the needle height and timing? Find more of the GB 125s, which I can drop in but may be more prone to breaking because they're long? I'm mostly sewing scrap right now, learning how to use the new servo and machine. I'll use this mostly for non-visible lightweight sewing in wallets, bags, and accessories. Once I get more comfortable (and consistent with it, I may sew sheaths and visible seams on bags and wallets. Holsters etc. will still be hand-sewn, until I can afford a machine that will handle 277 thread. Also: I'm strictly a hobbyist. Does it make sense to buy pre-wound bobbins, or am I OK winding my own? The bobbin winder that came with the machine is irreparable, but I rigged up a substitute with my cordless drill that seems to work OK.
  8. Any chance of the stl for the z-height adjuster and fan blow-through for the eleksmaker laser?
  9. Going to have to look up Harry Rogers - sounds like a good way to spend some time. Another you-tuber who's doing a lot to bring in new people to leather is Tony See, of dieselpunk.ro and leather-patterns.com. He started off making and selling his bags, masks, etc. but has moved completely to making and selling patterns now - he's said publicly that he doesn't want to compete with the people who buy his patterns when people are looking for leather goods. Not only has he sold 90,000 patterns (over the course of five-ish years, but the pace is accelerating) he has solid, well-produced tutorials for every pattern. He also does videos on product photography, stitching, "Why your stuff doesn't sell," and so on. There's no tooling involved, and the patterns are made well enough that even I can do them - which has led me back to some of the more interesting and challenging things I'm trying to make. And, of course, the wealth of knowledge here has helped. Back when The Rifleman and Gunsmoke were all the rage, Stohlman/Sheridan holsters and saddles were interesting to kids. Now, it's anime and game characters. If the craft doesn't adapt along with society, it will become even more niche.
  10. I'm making a whale tale tank bib for my son's Harley, and he has the split tanks with a gap in the middle. I'm using 7-8oz veg tan, and given that it's going to get wet many times, I'd like to put something between the veg tan and the buckskin "liner" I'm using to back it and protect the tank. Springfield and Tandy sell "bag stiffeners" but it looks like they're heavy card stock - which will retain water, and eventually disintegrate. Some folks have suggested "EVA craft foam" but it's very floppy to begin with, and 2-3mm thick besides, so not a good fit for me. What suggestion do y'all have? I do some 3d printing and thought about a 1mm printed sheet of PLA (plastic) that tapers to effectively zero at the edges, but I'd love to have an off-the-shelf option. James
  11. That's a lot of leather - I didn't even know you could buy pallets of leather.
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