Wizcrafts

Right! Try this chart instead: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I usually choose the largest recommended needle when I sew medium to hard temper leather. It needs wider diameter holes to overcome the friction.

That is the wrong size needle for #138 thread. You should use at least a #22, if not a #23 leather point needle.

How thick are the collars at the widest point? This will determine the type of machine needed to sew them.

Use a #18 needle with #69 thread in leather or webbing. Number 16 is for cloth and vinyl.

From the model number I suspect that it is a clone of an Adler 69 series machine. Call Bob Kovar (primary Cowboy dealer in the USA) to get more info on that machine. His toll free number is: 866-362-7397. Let us know what you learn.

I own a second hand Techsew 2700 (deprecated). It is identical to the Cowboy CB227R. These compound feed walking foot machines use a standard G size Singer bobbin which is often referred to as 1x capacity. They are best limited to a maximum thread size of #138 (22 pounds test), which works best with a #22 or #23 needle (depending on the density of the material). The maximum thickness they can sew is 3/8 inch if properly adjusted. My machine seems happier running #69 or #92 thread. The smallest thread I have run on it is #33 bonded nylon. The reverse function is part of the spring loaded stitch length lever. You have to pull and hold the lever down to back stitch. The holes will line up as long as you hold the lever all the way to its stop. When you let go the lever springs up into forward sewing mode. The cylinder arm is about 2.5" diameter, or so, (I'm not in the shop as I type this) and easily gets inside bags, cuffs and sleeves. The bobbins drop in from the top on the right side of the needle, under a sliding cover plate. My machine came with an optional table top attachment. The Cowboy has a similar table attachment and also can also have a drop down edge guide installed at an additional cost. But, I found a work around. There are spring loaded edge guide feet for sale with spacings from 1/8 to 5/16 inch from the guide to the needle. Problem solved! One final note is to make sure you get a mechanical dial controlled servo motor with the machine. Mine originally shipped with a push button controlled servo that started with a jolt at about 200 RPM. I replaced it with a Family Sew servo that starts at zero and increases smoothly to whatever maximum speed I set on the rotary dial. The motor is foot controlled. There is also a foot lifter for the feet that gives more lift than the hand lifter on the back of the head. IHTH

I suspect that the machine models you listed a 335, not 355.

There is a big adjuster cap screw on top that controls the foot pressure. It can be backed out until the marks are minimized.

My guess, based upon my ebaying, is that the much cheaper parts are usually shipped to you directly from China, Honk Kong, Taiwan, or elsewhere in the Orient. It could take a month to arrive. The higher price parts are usually in-Country. I would check the location before hitting the Buy Now button. Another reason for price discrepancies like that are when you buy authentic replacement parts from a brand's manufacturer, vs aftermarket parts from the Orient. Thoe accuracy of the AM parts may vary widely.

I have added 3:1 speed reducers to most of my machines. That usually does the trick for me and should for you too. The question is what type of reducer to buy and who is going to install it? Then there's the question about your motor. Does it start up with a jolt at a couple hundred rpm? If so, does it have pushbuttons to control it? That type of servo is very hard to control and I have removed any like that and replaced them with this type of knob controlled servo motor. This motor starts at zero and speeds up to the preset limit of the knob. Heck, you may find that you don't really need a reducer with this motor. Note that when you change motor types, or add reducers, the v-belt length/lengths will change too.

The Class 26, et al, is a compound feed walking foot machine. All of these machines are designed to sew medium density materials, like vinyl, chrome-tan and thin veg-tan leather, draperies and denim. Light cloth tends to get pushed into the hole/slot in the feed dog. It also lifts with the inside foot on the upstroke which caused puckering and skipped stitches. You probably will need a flat bed straight stitch machine to sew thin linings.

Bags like to be sewn on cylinder arm sewing machines. Ask them! The next question is: which is the best cylinder arm machine fits my $2500 budget? If you are buying used, anything you can afford and don't mind dinking with when things go out of wack. But, if you buy new and the dealer offers (and provides) free support, you will easily spend $2500 (shipped). This could buy you a Cowboy CB341 or Cobra Model 26, which are clones of the Juki LS-341 (now superseded by the improved LS-1341). Here is a video of a Cowboy CB341 being demo'd: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVJ9_3AbmO4 There are other brands available used that cost twice as much new as the above mentioned clone machines. Adler and Pfaff come to mind, as well as an actual Juki LS-341, or the current LS-1341.

I was being facetious ;-). Nobody who knows anything about industrial sewing machines is going to pay anywhere near that amount. Maybe if it was cleaned up it might fetch $250. This model 111w153 is a triple feed walking foot, but with low foot lift. It can sew a maximum thickness of 5/16 inch unless it was highly modified. They use standard G size walking foot bobbins and can just handle up to #138 thread, but is better limited to #92. I had one for a while.

If somebody is willing to pay $500, go for it! Sell it on Craigslist to a budding upholsterer.