Wizcrafts

Yes, absolutely! Patchers are totally top driven by the teeth on the bottom of the presser foot. You must apply enough foot pressure to move the material and not let it lift as the needle ascends. The teeth will leave tracks in veg-tan leather, Latigo, bridle leather and some other retanned leathers. It doesn't usually leave marks in chrome-tan leathers. If you grind down the teeth, the foot may just glide over the leather. Some have had success shrinking carburetor air tubing over the legs of the foot.But, with the reduced top drive, you may need to push or pull the work to get acceptable stitch lengths.

I hate to have to tell you this, but Guest accounts cannot use our messenger or email systems. You will have to join LW.N to use them. Otherwise, you'll have to leave some other method of contacting you. Do you have a website with a contact form? How about a throwaway email address created for this occasion? Recent Firefox browsers let you create use and lose free email accounts. The details about Firefox email Relay accounts are outlined on this page.

@LomaeArts If it's a real Singer twin needle machine, it will have two hooks; one on each side under the cover plates. I believe that it would then be a model 112 or 212 (G or W) - (number). See this post for pictures and details about the Singer 112/212 twin needle machine.

@waynebergman When buying your first leather machine, buy a complete working machine that has everything intact. If you have trouble finding information about a particular make and model, move along until something well known comes up.

The difference is I WANT that 360 post machine! LOL Actually, the big difference would be that the post machine "bed" moves as you turn the work, thus, not fighting the operator. A patcher is fine if you have a defined entry point and can sew circles without running out of room for the arm. With a rotating bed, if the work fits over the little post, it gets sewn without a fight. As for the feed, the post machine appears to have a roller foot. We don't know if it has a driven foot, or feed dog, or if they are passive. If the rollers are driven and in sync, the feed would be very positive. The patchers are all top driven only via the teeth on the presser foot. No teeth, no feed. Patchers tend to get hung up on bulges or new layers on the bottom. Roller foot and walking foot machines usually have no trouble with new layers and small wrinkles on the bottom.

Hell no! An actual boot patcher is about 18 inches tall! They weigh about 70 pounds and are usually mounted on a treadle base. Otherwise, you'll need to buy an industrial sewing table for it, and add a motor and all the linkages required to power it. If you buy that piece of Chines junk, and actually receive a machine, it won't be ready to use as is. You may also be liable for duty and other taxes. This looks like a scam to me. A patcher is worth over 2000 bucks new, and about 800 used. And, that's just for this particular size. They come in two different sizes. This is the small size. You really need to do more homework before you buy any machine that isn't from a dealer. Search for posts and photos of a Singer 29k71, or 29k171, to see what the last models actually look like, mounted and ready to sew.

Download the manual from the link provided by the previous person. It is likely the same adjustment. Please don't post multiple copies of the same question. I have hidden your other 2 posts with the same question.

The seller claims to be Bed Bath and Beyond, which is a US based household accessories reseller. They are not in the sewing machines business. The price shown for this machine is suspiciously low. Patchers like this usually sell for four times the listed price. This page could be a knock-off website. Even if it's a legit website, you would probably be buying a machine that will be drop shipped from China. You will be on your own to assemble it, power it, and repair it if something is wrong with it. There are reputable industrial sewing machine dealers in Canada. I recommend contacting some of them.

These 111 and 211 machines have 7 inch wide beds. I used to have a bracket that either screwed onto the bed or across it. There was a metal space on the left side to screw on a binder or edge guide. @CowboyBobmight have them.

@Pinto I once was where you're at, with sewing machine decisions. When I started making leather goods for myself, I bought the wrong machines twice in a row. I changed dealers at that point and talked to a more knowledgeable dealer. He sold me what looked like a monster machine, a Singer 132k6. It sewed the holster jobs I had lines up, but not with much ease. When I told him about it's shortcomings, he told me to look for a harness stitcher. I did and eventually bought one fickle ancient Union Lockstitch machine, then another (I invented new swear words), and finally, a Cowboy cb4500. The Cowboy sews thick leather with huge needles and large diameter thread (346+). It is pretty much hassle free and has accessories that make it easier to sew certain jobs that a flat bed machine can't handle. I have operated the hand cranked machines and my arm got tired really fast. And, that was in my younger days! You say you want to get in under big dollars and are probably sewing 3/8 of an inch (24 ounces). With that in mind, I recommend the Cowboy cb3200. It can sew up to 1/2 inch (32 ounces) of holster leather, with #346 bonded nylon thread that the Jolly Green Giant uses to slide down from his hut in the clouds. To do this requires a #26 needle, which closely resembles a roofing needle in diameter! It costs much less than the cb4500, and uses the same huge bobbins and needles.

Here is a short video explaining where you lower the feed dog on a Singer 111, or Consew 225.

This article explains how to post photos on our forum.

In leatherwork, we machine sew with either bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. As Dwight mentioned, these threads are wound on plastic spools. They are usually sold in 4 ounce through 16 ounce put-ups. The thread must be on a thread stand and must feed straight up to an overhead thread eye that it goes through before going to the sewing machine. Spooled industrial thread is not meant to be fed sideways, like home/domestic thread is. Also, there must be enough distance between the top of the thread spool and the overhead eyelets to keep it from twisting over the top structure, or wire eyelet. I try for about 5 or 6 inches spacing when possible. If none of the spools you find are bonded thread, don't waste your money.

First of all, what type of servo motor is installed on the machine? Does it go directly from the motor to the machine? Or, is there a speed reducer between them? In the early days of the CB4500 and Cobra Class 4 machines (e.g., 2011 - 2013), they all had digital servo motors with a readout display and push buttons to change functions. these motors started spinning at about 200 rpm. Sometime after that, they began to ship with analog servo motors featuring a simple knob to limit the top speed, plus a 3:1 speed reducer to triple the torque. My analog servo and speed reducer lets me sew so slowly that it's like watching grass grow if I just slightly engage the speed pedal.

Is the top thread going through the take-up lever? Is the bobbin thread jammed? Is the tab on the bobbin case catching the top tread? If so, maybe the latch opener needs to pull back more on the bobbin case flange.