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Found 16 results

  1. I have just purchased a Juki DU-1181-N industrial sewing machine from Meissner Sewing in Sacramento. I have replaced the servo motor that it came with and replaced it with another that I already had. I am offering it for sale for $100 plus freight. Brand new. FSM-550 Servo Motor, POW 550W, 110V. RPM 0-3300 See all three photos here: http://tombanwell.com/servo-motor
  2. I have a REX 607Z setup in a custom table (had my friend CNC the top) so I could hook it up to a servo motor with a Syncronizer. The servo motor is brushless and has four buttons on the control unit, Consew CSM-1001. The machine is working absolutely great with the servo motor and syncro...it took the machine to a higher plane. Now this machine is very good for what it is however it will struggle power wise with the 550 watt motor, nothing major for the work I'm doing and nothing that bothers me...it is still light years better than the little motor it comes with. I picked up a JUKI 55 with the table and a clutch motor in good condition for $125. With how well the REX responded with the servo motor it was a no brainer to use the same brushless setup on the JUKI. Knowing that the 550 watt motor wouldn't have the same power as the clutch motor I bought pillow blocks and a shaft to make a speed reducer, I had a 2" and 6" pulley. My initial thinking was to use the 3:1 reducer with the clutch motor just to see if perhaps I could stick with the clutch motor if I indeed had better control. Well trying to deal with that giant motor just flat out got on my nerves so I said screw this, I'll just get the brushless/syncro setup for it as it would be much easier to deal with and in the mean time put the reducer on the REX. It would give me some extra torque and I could get the reducer up and running and get any kinks worked out. I did have to make a timing pulley for the brushless motor since the REX uses a timing belt. This was simple enough to do, I modeled up 30 tooth pulley for the motor and an adapter to increase the fly wheel to 5 inches...same deal as the power wheel sailrite sells. I made these on my 3D printer and away I went. Since I had the 30 tooth modeled for the motor shaft I just had to change the model to fit the 3/4" shaft for the reducer. Printed it out and boom, had me a nice reducer. It turns out I got it up and running in no time. Here is where the problem came in. The syncro was no longer working as it should. I have read reports of the syncro not working when a speed reducer was installed as well as reports of the syncro setup working fine. My initial thinking was that it SHOULD work correctly, thinking that the needle would go where it's supposed to based on the syncro. The total reduction ended up to be 6:1 and the servo setup doesn't know or care how this is achieved, like a 1" pulley on the motor and a 6" flywheel pulley. ...right?...wrong! I was perplexed by this. Well lets take a look at the numbers and I admit they are kind of all over the place. I put the original 70mm v-belt pulley back on the servo motor because the 6" pulley going on the reducer shaft was for a V-belt. The 30 tooth timing pulley I made for the reducer is 1 1/4" dia. What I discovered is that even though from the motor to the flywheel is a 6:1 ratio there seems to be a direct correlation between the revolutions that the motor turns and where the revolution on the syncro is. So the motor is spinning a 2.75" (70mm) pulley and turning a 6" pulley, that is a 2.18:1 ratio. Then on top of that I'm going from a 1.25" pulley on the reducer shaft to a 5" flywheel pulley which is a 4:1 ratio. So as I was about looking the positions of the drive pulley and the flywheel I realized the servo motor was turning a certain amount of degrees compared to how many degrees the syncro was reporting and they didn't add up! So if the needle position was simply based on the syncro postion then Bobs your uncle but because what the syncro reports and what motor reports don't jive, it ain't gonna work. So I'm not sure it will work even if I get the drive pulley diameters in line. A 2" on the motor to a 6" on the reducer and then from a 2" on the reducer to a 6" on the flywheel. The motor would be reporting 2 times the amount of rpm's than the syncro is reporting it should have....who the hell knows? I think I'll model and print the pulleys and flywheel adapter to those diameters and see what happens. Lets face it with the hodge podge of diameters I'm using now, yeah, that would throw anything out of sync...lol. As a test I made an adapter for the syncro to go right on the 3/4" reducer shaft and it worked perfectly. If anyone has any thoughts on this please feel free to chime in. For those that report no problems, my guess is that relationship between motor and flywheel rpm's does not apply on there control units. I'll post some pics of my reducer but right now it looks like 3 kids and dog had a wrestling match in there. Here's an FYI. On my unit, if I set it up for needle down I can additionally press the back of the treadle and the needle will raise. However if I set it for needle up, when I release the treadle. that's it, needle up, no needle down option. So what I do is set the control unit for needle down but the needle is up and the syncro is set to report that it's in the needle down postion. When I release the treadle the needle goes to the up position but then if I want the needle down i just press on the back of the treadle....it works great. Stay tuned... BTW...first post...I've learned A LOT form this forum...THANKS!
  3. Hi all, I was doing some spring cleaning/maintenance on my Cowboy 4500 today. I got everything dusted and cleaned, back on, put together, and oiled. I turned it on to test without a needle/thread installed and it ran great, the only problem is it runs so great that it runs even when I'm NOT pressing on the foot pedal. I don't think I changed anything, but I suppose it's possible I may have bumped or adjusted something unknowingly while moving the machine. -I can push lightly (about half way) on the pedal and the machine will work normally with the speed reducer function. When I let off the foot pedal, the machine will stop as expected. ***The problem comes when I push all the way down on the foot pedal and then let off, the machine keeps running (needle, feed dogs, foot moving etc.) like it's on the slowest setting. It also makes a fairly obnoxious squealing noise while moving very slowly. I tried moving the link on the chain up and down to change the amount of slack and tension- that doesn't seem to be it. If it's too tight it will run too fast and I don't get the speed reduction. Too loose and it doesn't matter. I even had the chain completely unhooked from the pedal and it kept running. I've narrowed it down (I think) to the black plastic arm on the servo motor that is attached to the foot pedal by the chain. It's not going all the way back up to stop the movement of the machine. I can gently push up on it momentarily with a finger and the machine will stop normally. If I let off the pressure with my finger, it will keep running. I also can apply a little more pressure and the whole black plastic arm will "click" or "snap" back up to a locked position and the machine will remain off. It will start up and run normally when I press the foot pedal, but again when I put it all the way down and release it will not stop completely. I have to manually push this arm up to stop it completely. Again, that's why I thought it might be the chain tension, but had not luck when moving the link and tension. Is there anything you can think of that would fix this? What could I have done to cause it? Could the problem be coming from something else? This machine is only 2 years old, hasn't seen excessive use, and it is well taken care of. I bought it from Toledo Sewing Machine and have never had any problems with it before. I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the motor since it's so new. I took the cover off the servo motor to see if there was anything obviously wrong and couldn't see anything. I'm not super mechanically inclined, so I thought I'd start here with the experts before doing anything. I didn't want to start chasing one problem and create a handful of others. Any help you all could provide would be greatly appreciated. Fingers crossed it is something simple and I can get it back to normal. Thanks in advance, -Hannah
  4. i feel like I am in the twilight zone. when I took off the simple nut and the lockwasher washer kind of thing, the consew 50 mm pulley didn't fit on the machine. I took a picture of the way it was before I touched it for reference and the when I revoved the wheel, there were only 3 things. the new wheel is maybe a sixteenth thicker than the 55mm. couldn't fit on the new one so tried to re-install the original and ot it is like the shaft shortened. before and after and there is no way to get the nut on it even with the original on it....I am trippin first picture is before I touched it. second picture is with the original wheel back on it and same hardware. 2nd picture the wheel is against the servo motor housing and I don't think it will turn
  5. Hey Everybody, I've been a 'lurker' in the shadows here for a few years and have learned a ton of stuff. The openness & generosity of you folks is amazing. I have a Pfaff 145 (high lift version) flat bed sewing machine I got from my Dad. Try as I might I just could not master the clutch motor when sewing thicker leather. I would try to feather the clutch to slow things down and it wouldn't punch through the leather, or I'd engage the clutch enough to punch through & it'd be a runaway train. I changed pulleys on the motor (3.5" to 1.5") and on the head unit (3.5" to 5.5") to try to slow things down & increase torque but the change was negligible to me. This was probably more of an operator issue than a machine issue but the result was still a machine I could only use on thin materials. What prompted me out of the shadows was my experience with Bob & Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.After searching threads here about Pfaff & servo motors, I called Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. He talked me through all of the features & benefits of servo motors, installation tips, etc. He answered all of my questions and took quite a bit of time with me. I ended up ordering the Family Sew FL-550 motor and received it in Atlanta in 2 days! Man, what a difference! Power to spare and I can now sew 3/8" thick leather with complete control! I can stitch sooooo slow too! I keep finding myself sewing stuff just to sew stuff (I have burned through a good share of my scraps). Major props to Bob & Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines!!
  6. Hello all, just wanted to say hello and see what suggestions people have on some thoughts of mine. I just got into sewing and purchased a 111w155 in good shape for $250. Has a good clutch motor on it. I will be using this machine for knife sheaths and some upholstery work. However, I got lucky at an auction and got an Imperial zigzag (not much info online but its identical to the singer 143 models) with a Quick Rotan setup for $70. Also got a Brother MA4-V61-98-5 serger for $25. I think I got a pretty good deal. Anyway, im thinking of switching the quick rotan setup to the singer 111w. Primarily for slower control and the needle up and down options that the rotan controls offer. Do you guys think this will do well on the 111w? It took me 3 days of scouring the web but managed to find pdf manuals for the quick rotan setup. Not sure what the pulley ratio would be but I can machine a correct pulley if needed. Appreciate any thoughts. Didn't find any topics with anyone doing this on an old singer 111w. Thanks, Adam
  7. Hi to everyone,just bought a few days ago a Juki ACNP-MOO2 550W servo motor.Found it on an online market and the seller was very poor with the details.Beeing a cheap deal (35$ including postage) I had bought it,thinking that I'll manage with it somehow.Only after its arrival realised that there isn't the regular small weight servo motor I know from my sewing machine.It's a 30 pounds beast.It's the motor only,no controll box or an on/off box.It has 3 cables coming out of it but I can't tell which one is which.I would like to try to see if it's working but I can only guees which are the power wires,so I better leave it alone.Can anyone tell more about this motor,anyone used this model before?What do I need to test it,or to make it run again.What control box do I need to look for?If I can't use it on a sewing machine can be used as it is,without the controller,for something else like a homemade polishing machine or belt sander?Thank you.
  8. Hey to all! Thanks for accepting here I would like to ask about the servo motor. I have JUKI 1811 with clutch motor, which is super fast - it is hard for me to work with leather, speacially for me as I am beginner. Could You tell me what kind of servo motor would fit my JUKI DU-1811N and also be the slow one? I have googled and searched this forum, I havent found that specific answer, but I guess I know that I need the small one - as it has advantage with slow type leather work? Any additional suggestions maybe. Thanks again, Niklas, CLIQ.
  9. ABOUT ME: Hi there! I am searching for someone who might need a great INDUSTRIAL sewing machine Check this out please and see if it could be of any use... I was going to create leather belts and gun holsters in Texas, but I changed my mind once I returned to Alabama...I am an aerialist and I would like to sell my machine to invest in my dream...If you're not interested PLEASE share with someone you think may be interested. The Lord works in mysterious ways, #GodBless ABOUT THE MACHINE: The Techsew 5100 Special Edition is the ultimate sewing machine designed for a wide range of leather work projects. Light range leather work: Purses, handbags, pouches, wallets, notebook covers, vests Medium range leather work: Belts, knife sheaths, scabbards, quivers, horse blankets Heavy range leather work: Saddles, gun holsters, knife sheaths, harnesses, horse tack Additionally it is also great for non-leather work applications such as tie down straps, boat/car covers, orthopaedics, thick paper binding, parachute harnesses, tarps, vinyl, canvas, synthetics, heavy webbing and more. What makes the Techsew 5100 Special Edition so special? Techsew SmartServo-NP Needle Position Motor The Techsew SmartServo-NP is an automatic needle positioning motor which saves you tons of time and effort while sewing. This powerful and versatile motor will automatically lift the needle at the end of a seam, or automatically leave it in the bottom position. This will eliminate the need to constantly turn your handwheel to position your needle. At 1HP and 800W, The SmartServo-NP will help your machine power through thick leather at any of the 16 adjustable speed settings. Additionally, a speed reducer is used in combination with the SmartServo-NP motor for added power and speed control. This system is ideal for beginner, intermediate and expert sewers as well. ALL EXCLUSIVE TO THE TECHSEW 5100 SPECIAL EDITION! Features: Triple Feed - Walking Foot (needle feed + alternating presser feet + bottom feed) 1" Presser foot clearance Sews from 6oz all the way up to 7/8" thick 16.5" Cylinder bed Equipped with Techsew SmartServo-NP motor and speed reducer to sew at slow & controlled speeds - great for novice, intermediate and professional sewers Reverse stitch - for reinforcing stitches 12 inch heavy duty flywheel Reinforced steel pedestal style table with adjustable height (sew standing up or sitting down) Includes: Complete table with casters, SmartServo-NP motor, speed reducer,TS-28 LED lamp, TS-5 LED stitch light, TLG laser guide, swing down roller guide, flatbed table attachment, 3 pkgs of Organ diamond point needles,8 bobbins, thread lube pot, left toe foot, double toe foot, center foot, smooth blanket foot set, 1 lb. (16oz) cone of thread, oiler, instruction manual, repair tools, thread clipper. Stitch length adjustment up to 11mm (7/16") Uses thread sizes 69 to 415 Uses needle sizes 18 to 27 FREE setup & instructional DVD included! Includes Limited Lifetime Warranty and FREE technical support for the life of your machine Machine comes pre-threaded, oiled, adjusted and READY TO SEW Specifications: Needle sizes: 18 to 27 Thread sizes: 69 to 415 Presser foot clearance: 1" Sewing capacity: 6oz to 7/8" thick Cylinder bed length: 16.5" Maximum stitch length: 11mm Techsew SmartServo-NP motor: 800W, 1HP, 110V, 300 to 1800RPM, 16 speed settings with bright LED display, completely silent when idle and reduced noise during operation. The most POWERFUL servo motor in the industry.
  10. After much debate I have decided to try and sell my Ludwig 205-370 heavy duty cylinder arm leather stitcher. Due to time constraints from my job I am just not doing enough leather work anymore to justify keeping it and I could really use the room in my shop, so I will sadly let it go. This machine is an exact copy of the Adler 205-370 and operates just as smoothly as the actual Adler I tried at Weaver Leather. It is in fantastic condition and has no issues. If you're not familiar with this model, they will do everything one of the 441 / "Class 4" machines will do and run smoother while doing it. The machine includes a swing-away edge guide, an adjustable height table/stand, auto-bobbin winder, speed reducer, and a quality servo motor. I have a few different presser feet and feed dogs for it, several packages of needles, a few spools of bonded nylon thread, and several bobbins. I also have the Weaver timing device and digital copies of the Adler manuals. I am asking $1,500.00 for the machine and all the accessories I have for it. It would be a tremendous effort to break this thing down and crate it to ship because it's HEAVY and BIG, so I would really prefer local pickup. However, if someone is willing to pay for the effort required to ship it I am willing to do the work as a last resort. I am located near Huntington, WV. Feel free to ask any questions you have about it or if you'd like to see any other pictures. I am not in a bind or "needing" to sell it in any way, so I'm not going to accept any low-ball offers. If I can't get within reason of what it is worth for it, I'll just cover it up and keep it. If interested you can message me here, email me at evandailey@suddenlink dot net, or call or text at 304-six33-489two.
  11. We purchased this Consew Double Needle Post Machine recently. It was purchased brand new from the manufacturer. We thought it would work for our business, but instead it has sat unused in our art studio. We tried using it once or twice, but discovered that it is most definitely the wrong machine for our needs. It is technically in Like NEW condition, with no signs of wear. We've proactively serviced it to ensure that it is ready for the new owner. This machine would be better suited for a saddle maker or a company specializing in leather/upholstery fabric furniture, please see Full Specs below. This machine comes with the table and a servo motor. We are selling it for a few thousand less than what we paid in hopes it will sell quickly. Willing to accept reasonable offers. We are asking $3800 for this machine, actually selling it for a few thousand dollars less than what we paid in hopes it will sell quickly. Willing to accept reasonable offers only. We are unable to ship, due to its weight and size. Instead we are willing to deliver it anywhere within California for an additional $200. California buyers only. Local pick up is also acceptable. This machine is currently listed on EBAY, but I can pull auction if someone on this forum is interested. FULL SPECIFICATIONS: Model # 369RB-2 Double Needle, 1/4" Gauge- 135x17 Walking Foot Speed, Max (S.P.M)- 2200 Clearance Under Pressure Foot- 11/32" (8.5mm) Stitch Length- 5 s.p.i (5mm) Bed Size- 7"x20 3/8" (177mm x 518mm) APPLICATIONS: For sewing medium to medium heavy-weight fabrics. Leather, canvas, vinyl, synthetics, and various coated and laminated materials Designed for sewing operations which require decorative or functional angular stitching such as collars, pockets, shoe uppers, auto, boat and furniture upholstery, slacks, shirts, etc... Designed for stitching such products as overalls, raincoats, luggage, travelware accessories, bags, umbrella's, awnings, covers, tarpaulins, tents, wearing apparel, outdoor clothing, underwear, etc. General/parallel two-needle stitching with split bar for making even angle turns. Suitable for stitching uneven, hollow, tubular and curved articles FEATURES: Compound feed, walking foot mechanism assures perfect feeding of sewing material Large hooks and bobbin cases with their own thread take-up mechanism assure uniform and perfect stitching with minimum bobbin changes Easy operation of disengage able right and left needle bars by use of finger-touch lever Centra-Lube, semi-automatic lubrication system Oil fed take-up Stitches per minute 2200 Reverse Stitching Various gauge sets available Safety clutch protects the hooks from being damaged
  12. Hey all, I recently invested a great deal of time and money buying myself an industrial walking foot sewing machine - namely an Adler 167-GK-373 walking foot. However I've found it's not quite what I had in mind for my needs. Hand-stitching is for me. As such I've decided to offer it up to you lovely people, for a good deal off what I've paid for the machine, replacement parts, upgraded motor and time to refurbish and calibrate it all. It's an Adler 167 walking foot, made in West Germany, and has been totally cleaned inside and out. A totally solid machine, consistent stitching, reverse stitching, variable pressure foot. Brilliant machine, just not for me I have also upgraded the motor to a new Servo Motor (JK-563A-1 220V 750W 1 HP SERVO MOTOR WITH NEEDLE POSITION) It also has a new feed dog, needle plate, new feet (which I've polished) and comes with all the needles (5-6 packs), threads, clippers and spare parts from the machine that I've accumulated. I live in Scotland and as such it kind of needs to be collected from me, but I can arrange for a courier at what I suspect is a bit of cost (£100+ I would imagine ish). Price I'm looking for is £1100 ono. Many thanks for looking Gordon
  13. Hello All! I'm looking for anyone with first hand knowledge of two different servo motors I'm looking at for my Singer 211G165. It's on a clutch motor now, and I'd like to switch to a servo for speed control, noise reduction, and lower energy consumption. Additionally, I'm more concerned with control over speed, think detailed stitch control for leather appliques, tight corner turns, and unusual curves. I'd still like to get as much torque as I can since I will be doing a fair amount of multi-layer work (like with bags, backpacks, coats, and corsets). Material-wise, I'll mostly be using it for garment and upholstery weight leathers as well as canvases and sometimes denims. I'm pretty much a complete noobie with very little motor and electrical knowledge. My research, thus far, consists predominantly of scouring the forum for feedback and comments and reading what few other reviews I've located via Google searches. There's quite a lot of positive feedback regarding the Family Sew FS-500 motors here on the forums, and I almost feel like I know the folks at Toledo Industrial Sewing at this point (that's a gold start for you guys, if you're reading this); although, I've yet to call and talk to them--it's on my to-do list. With regards to the Reliablle SewQuiet line, I've not located anything (yet) here on Leatherworker.net regarding those motors, but did find several threads on the hotrodder forums with considerable positive feedback; although almost all of those were on the 5000 series which is no longer available and now replaced with the "upgraded" Reliable Sewquiet 6000SM Both Motors are rated at 3/4 HP. The Family Sew is a brush motor with a cork brake (there appears to be mixed feelings on the brake and ease of operation regarding projects with only a few stitches/stitch-by-stitch work) and uses a knob adjustment for speed control. The SewQuiet 6000SM is a brushless motor that incorporates a 12 coil design "for improved torque" (that's about as much as I understand about that!), has a digital speed control limiter, and, supposedly, employs their "STEP STITCHING TECHNOLOGY - SST™" for control with detailed sewing. It also has an optional synchronizer available for precise up/down needle control (a plus with applique work and turning as opposed to hand-wheeling it all the time). On paper, the Reliable seems to better fit my needs, assuming it can actually deliver on it's claims. The hotrodder guys seems to highly prefer the 5000 series over the Family Sew machines. HOWEVER, I greatly value the opinions of other leatherworkers here, and everything I see is referencing the Family Sew. Now, whether the Family Sew is better, or the folks here just haven't explored the more recent Reliable Sewquiets, I don't know. Thus this post. Thanks to each and every one of you that take the time to read this and hopefully reply with your experiences! (: A new motor is on the short list for my holiday present this year, and I'm hoping I make the right decision.
  14. I've bought Jack Jk-561A-1 Servo Motor and I'm really happy with it. But there is a nice modification to make, good for a newbies like me, to make the servo motor even more predictive. I've nowhere found similar idea, so I've decided to share. I made this mod with the clutch motor that was previously installed on my machine, and it was running quite good. But as the leather does not like mistakes... I've got a servo. Returning to the point, here are photos of the modification. The cost of it is about $2. Only downsides I've spotted by now are: first - You can not "back" the treadle (that makes the lever on the motor controller go up. And for me this is not a problem), second - when you lift the treadle and then it drops down, it can pull the controller and sew a stitch (changing the lever spring should fix it). The main thing, the mod does is that for the 17mm movement of the controller lever You need to push the treadle by 35mm. Even with motor set to the highest speed there is no problem for a newbie to control the speed from slow to full. ( I hope it's all clear, as English is not my native language )
  15. Hi, I'm new in this forum. I recently bought a used pfaff 335 for a very low price, I tried it in the last few days and everything works fine. The only problem is the motor, it's a very old (looks 50's or 60's) clutch motor and it is extremely hard to control the speed (almost no steps between no stitching and the maximum speed). It's the first time I use an indutrial sewing machine and it goes quite fast, I can almost control it but it's sill too much. I am now looking for a servo motor, I live in switzerland and the simplest way to get one is to purchase it somewere else in europe (switzerland is terribly expensive). I found a website in UK that sells the Jack JK510A https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/JK-510A-220V-550W-ENERGY-SAVING-SERVO-MOTOR it looks fine but in the video attached to the web page it looks like the minimum speed is 500 rpm. Is it a low speed, on the video it looks fast? Can I control the speed by changing the pressure of my foot on the pedal or it is a fixed speed? In the pictures is my pfaff 335 and the motor Thanks, Nicola
  16. So I received my servo, with speed reducer from Bob at Toledo, thanks Bob. The thing have made my recent couple projects come out nearly perfect. The control is amazing and the adjustments in speed are mind blowing compaired to my old clutch. I have one question for all you servo pushers... Why hasn't anyone ever mention how painfull it is to sit through a bobbin winding? haha All the best, Rich