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Found 89 results

  1. 10oz veg-tan belt. Airbrushed with Indelible brand dye (brunette). Ran a little antique over it and hand stitched the perimeter.
  2. Not sure if anyone has seen this tool on the Arizona Belt Company page - wondering if anyone has one or would know where to get one?
  3. Hermann Oak British Brown belt straps, need to sell, Very nice sheen, Not the color I use, - 1.5 inch width black edge belt straps, 10-12 oz., 3.90/ft. 1.25 inch width black edge belt sraps, 10-12 oz., 3.50/ft. Straps up to 9 feet, shipping via priority mail actual cost.
  4. How are yall dying roughout leather? and if you are leaving the natural color, do you oil it or finish it in any way before sending it out the door??
  5. After learning to make stuff a few mo the ago for my brother’s birthday, I decided I’d use my new hobby for some more gifts. Some card holders, a simple belt, a valet, and a big wallet later I’m loving the craft. The big wallet edges and corners aren’t finished in this pic.
  6. I'm working on a pattern for billets for a rough out belts and have some questions. How do I determine the correct length of billets to balance the belt. Is there a ratio between the billet end and the buckle end.
  7. For sale used Randall NSB beveling machine $2900. The machine is in El Paso Tx. buyer pays for the shipping. No international shipping. Sold as-is. Items on the table are not included. I also have an older one for $1500. A new machine at Randall Campbell cost around $5000. Email me for more info. ricksaulg@aol.com
  8. I did a search for this, got some hits, but didn't see a definitive answer (maybe there isn't one). I've been making 1-1/2" belts from a side I bought. I've been cutting the belts out with a strap cutter. I end up with straps that are about 72" long, but for the belts I probably don't need a strap longer than 55". I end up with a lot of waste. I was wondering, from a best practices standpoint, if people cut the neck/front leg section off so there's an extra piece of leather for other work. My max strap length for that hide would only be 55". I may cut a couple 72" long straps when I first get a hide so I could have a couple long straps handy. Just curious about best practices on efficient use of the leather.
  9. Is there a tutorial or a how to on how to do these type of belts (see photo) particularly how to do the background side of the belt. Any help is appreciated
  10. I have been doing my own beadwork for a while and now want to move on to building my own belts and start tooling. The hang up is I don't know where to start and I've exhausted YouTube as well as any other resource I can find at the library, but it doesn't seem to add up to much. I have the gist as far as the general technique, but I'm lacking in the actual way in which to measure to determine hole placements, beadwork length and such. My general idea so far is this: Take beadwork two rows in all the way around to pig suede leaving a 1/4" border as well as stitching over strings at the ends to ensure they are secure. Cut out belt top with corresponding bead window and tool. Add in holes and turn around (see I don't even know the correct jargon) for buckle. I mainly work with individuals who will be wearing buckles with their belts as in rodeo buckles so I have a 4 inch give or take gap. Glue pig suede to bottom of belt. Glue top piece of belt over beads. Stitch around belt. Finish edges. And that is as far as I've managed. I have an old Chandler Dy-337 and a heavier Janome sewing machine to manage between. I have no leather tools, but I have the space the willingness to attempt and fail as needed to learn. Unfortunately, there just isn't many leather workers up here to help me on this. And I'm trying to cut out an unnecessary purchases and costly mistakes. I'm looking for guidance on what tools I need (I realize the tooling is a wide range depending on the style I will move forward with) but the basics when it comes to tooling and then finishing a project such as this. Also if there are any books that may be helpful I'm all ears. I missed the Rocky Mnt Show and now have to wait until Pendleton to get a good workshop in. Thank you all for your input!
  11. Hi all, First time poster but have been following for quite a while now. I started leatherworking around 5 years ago and now work mostly as a junior prop maker and armourer in the UK film industry. Had a bit of a lull between jobs so decided to take the first steps in a small personal enterprise, so here is an initial batch of stock pieces. As a general rundown, these are all 38mm/1.5", lined, hand stitched, and allow for interchangeable buckles. Keepers not quite finished yet but haven't been forgotten! There are a few designs going on but most are either oak leaves, Sheridan style floral, or a zoomorphic celtic interlace taken from a 9thc manuscript. Not up to the standards of many of the artists on here, but thought i should say a big general thanks as I have found a huge amount of knowledge and answers to any questions I could think of. There isn't as much of a tradition of leather crafts over here as in the US, particularly when it comes to tooling, so reading through posts has been invaluable. Cheers all!
  12. Ill just get right to it. First.. if I am using an 8-9 Herman Oak veg tan leather, dyed with pro dye, do I need to also apply neetsfoot? Usually my process goes: Dip Pro dye, neetsfoot, leather balm (with atom wax) and then beeswax I have tried resolene, but didn’t research well and tried to apply straight out of the bottle. Knowing now, it needs to be diluted. On my wallets I used the same process, but with the leather balm, it actually pulled out an oily color after it dried. That is on 2-3 oz kipskin from Weaver. Second.. I have a real problem with dye rubbing off onto cash and cards with the wallets. Is it because it is kipskin? Tonight I tried applying leather sheen to the flesh side to prevent that from happening. Before that, I have tried rubbing until my arm is numb with little difference. Also, on the holsters, would I use the same technique as on a wallets flesh side to prevent bleeding? My main concern is the inconsistency. And then the amount of time I spend appying the leather balm, especially if it has no real benefit to these projects. Ideally, if I could get away using just the pro dye and beeswax, it would be great, but I’m not sure if that is okay? Thank you in advance! Frank
  13. Want to introduce our new product to the audience! Unique product design - custom knife in the leather holster, completely made by hand. Highly utilitarian daily carry knife – great for all-around tasks. It’s a perfect companion for any hunter, camper, survivalist, or outdoor sports enthusiast so that you can enjoy your adventure. In case u find it interesting check here - https://olpr.com/product/handcrafted-pocket-knife/
  14. Hi all, I'm currently searching for a source of vegetable leather for wallets and belts. I need 2-3 oz for the wallets and I'd prefer 10 oz for the belts. I've found some places that have sides of 10 oz for around $230, but I'm just a beginner and although I'd like a full side for belting, this is out of my price range. I've also been able to find 2-3oz shoulders and remnants but I've been unable to find a full side yet. If anyone can point me in the right direction here it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sam
  15. I am just getting into antique leather restoration, etc. and I have a problem. I have a nice "motorcycle" or "western" belt from the 1940s and at some point it lost it's name, which was "FORTUNE" in what would have been yellow brass or chromed brass letters. I have been searching all over the web for alphabet spots but those currently available are not of the right design or size to reproduce the name. Ace Western Belts in Japan appears to reproduce these, but the cost is high and I am not sure the size is right. The original letters were 7/16" tall, or nearly half an inch. Communication with these folks is not easy because of the language barrier. So, does anyone have any letters I could buy that I could use to finish this belt? The photo of the actual belt shows other losses which I have fixed, but so far I cannot get those letters! I am also looking at restoration of this type to be an ongoing effort, so I am also looking for a source of vintage spots and jewels for future projects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  16. Cowboy CB3200 Heavy Leather Sewing Machine and leather fasteners, oils, stamps, and lots of leather 8-12 oz. I am not doing leather working any more and I am leaving Las Vegas, NV. I am selling everything off in one lot and I will not ship the machine. And really do not want to throw away the consumables, so it goes in one lot. The machine has seen light use and has been well oiled. 5 spools of thread both white and brown, extra needles, bobbins, edge guide, sewing machine tools. and flatbed table. Included leather hides (various weights), leather straps, finished belts ( chrome tan leather) about 2-300 belts 1 1/2 in wide various sizes. A lot of different fasteners, edging paint, edgers, various knives, leather stamping tools, hand tools, belt sander, drill press with wood edge finisher And a lot of holsters if you want them, blue guns, colt 45 acp 4in, other smaller popular hand guns, glock17 & 19. Snap setter with loads of snaps. Heck you can even have the tables. Heavy 2x4 tables made into an 4'x8'table with plywood top( it can be unscrewed for putting on your truck. ) with straight edges for cutting full hides. Let me make this extremely clear - I AM NOT SHIPPING THIS. THIS IS FOR YOU TO PICK UP. I am in Las Vegas Nevada. One price for EVERYTHING. $2000 If you need more information please email at longun45@gmail.com
  17. Hi All, Anyone in Leather Land have, or ever use a Weaver type self centering belt punching press? Looking for something like it or one exactly like it... used perhaps. Opinions matter! For Sale? Many thanks yous in advance! Silverd
  18. Still having trouble finding seat belt buckle. I have customers wanting these on there leather work belts. Seen them used before but not sure where to find them. Have searched everywhere. Any ideas. Also lazy susan style swivels. Any help is appreciated
  19. I was in the middle of a large project that required a lot of embossing using my 6 ton press. The piece of granite I use as a stage shattered after one overly enthusiastic pull. There is a granite kitchen place a few miles from the shop so I headed over and explained my situation to one of the managers. He took me over to their scrap box and let me take whatever I wanted. I found a few perfect pieces of granite as well as a few quartz, which is even better. I asked him if I could make something for him from leather and he showed me his belt. It was about torn through from where he clips on his tape. I told him I would be happy to make a new belt, using the same hardware and I would reinforce the area where his tape clips on. I had some usable leather and wanted to make a usable belt with minimum effort. I am sure he will be thrilled. I took a picture of the back of the buckle are and took measurements but I have no idea what size to punch the holes. I found a Tandy buckle to have a look at the final belt but the 2mm holes I punched are too small for this buckle. I have to deliver the belt tomorrow and don't want to show up with a hand punch if they are too small. I also don't want them too big either. Based on the pictures, any suggestions about the best guess at hole sizes for the buckle? I don't make belts and this is probably the first one I have made in years! Thanks! Bob
  20. RedKite

    Hello All

    Hey all, I'm Graeme from not-so-sunny Scotland just south of Edinburgh. I started leatherworking a few years back as I needed to make protective covers for my greenwood working tools i.e. axe masks, knife sheaths, billhook covers, etc. Then my old belt gave up the ghost so I set about making a new one and learned a lot along the way. I've just started back leatherworking after a hiatus of several years due to illness and a marriage break-up and am really enjoying it. Made a few belts for myself and a few others which were very well received and a few dog collars and leads (are they called leashes in America and some other countries?). Got a batch of vinegaroon brewing and a made some saddler's grease all thanks to to this very helpful and knowledgeable forum. I figure if the answer ain't on here then there ain't no answer! Anyhoo, I ain't great with technology and am shocking at taking photographs so you'll need to bear with me in that department. I'll pop up from time to time with questions and try and help others whenever I can but I'm pretty sure there are others with way more knowledge and experience than little old me. Lastly, I'd just like to say what an amazing forum this is and thanks very much for having me. Kindest regards to all, Graeme Red Kite Crafts
  21. How's it goin' everyone! I'm a newbie here and just recently found this sight a couple weeks ago. I've always wanted to get into leather craft a few years back and just recently bought me some stamps! I'm mainly looking to make belts, knife sheaths and the occasional wallet. When it comes to sewing machines I am lost! What type of sewing machine do I need for these types of projects? anything that I can buy at the store and readily available? Or do the older/vintage machines do better for these types of projects? Any info is greatly appreciated!
  22. Do you ever want to talk a customer out of their custom order/idea. At the last gun show, I got a few doozies. One fellow asked for a 3" wide belt ... 3" wide. He wanted to wear it over his hunting gear. I measured him on my sizing belt, I asked him a second and third time, "Three Inches??!!" Yep. "You realize that's essentially a weight lifting belt." Yep. "You realize that's wider than any duty belt." Yep. I had to get the buckle from Weaver, and I'm sure it's intended for use as a Draft Horse tack. I applied a reasonable upcharge and just finished the belt .... I'll keep you posted. Another guy, who just took delivery on IWBs for a Charter Arms Bulldog 44 and a Ruger Security Six promptly ordered a crossdraw IWB for a full size 1911. You may not think that's odd, but this fellow stands about 5'2". I wondered to my table mates if he ever sits down. Of all the orders I had last month, NOT ONE did I have a pattern for. Two required using a live firearm (fortunately, the same Glock 40 (yes, an IWB as well!)) and I'm now, apparently in the bodybuilding industry. Is it just me, or is this par for the "Custom" course?
  23. I am looking at getting another machine. I have a heavy stitching machine Cobra Class 4. Now I am looking for one that is more versatile I have used a Cobra Class 20 and really liked it but am also looking at a Juki 1508H I can buy local. I have heard the Juki is a little more versatile. Thoughts?
  24. Ok question. How do other leather crafters do it. i have been doing it for a long time. Black belts I use exclusively Herman oak 10-11oz leather. But anyways I stamp my letters then paint them. 2 coats angelus with 2-3 coats of angelus sealer . Then I use thr eco flo stain either the leteher dye or the water stain either or. I had a bad batch several bad batches of Fiebings dyes in black and USMC dye. Not good. I apply the stain and when I go over the letters I quickly wipe off dye on painted letters. Usually it comes off with good results but this gold letter I am just having problems and red. I need to go over and redo all the lettering . Question does anyone stain the whole belts first then use white on letters and then a couple coats of gold or other colors? Any help or tips should be so appreciated. Sorry the red is on another leather.
  25. Hi all - I added custom heavy duty work belts to my product list a year ago. So far I have been cutting my own blanks using 12-15oz Wickett & Craig Harness sides, cut lengthwise obviously. This heavy harness leather has worked out very well for thick sturdy work belts. Recently though, I thought I'd try out Wicket't's 10-12oz English bridal double bend for casual belts. This cut is marketed toward belt makers as increasing yield and eliminating un-usable square footage. Ok, my question for all the wise leather guru's out there is: In your experience, when using double bends, does it matter whether the straps are cut across the width of the hide, ie: perpendicular across the "backbone" ? Or lengthwise parallel to the backbone? At first I figured that straps cut across the width would capitalize on the natural curve of the hide as it grows on the steer. But it seems like I might get a better yield if I cut lengthwise. I hope this question makes sense. Thanks!
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