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Found 90 results

  1. Hi all, I picked up an Adler 767-fa-363 compound feed machine, a parts project. I have the machine set up okay, but need to finish attaching all the electronic connections. I have the sewing machine manual, but not one for the digital motor setup. Not sure which model it is, but it's an older Quick Rotan. I think it might be a Synchro 5040, but not sure. Can't really read the numbers on the various plates, but I've come up with some of these: AB 4/5 1089 0a05aJ A50501, or A50901 Here are some pics. If anyone can steer me toward a manual for connecting all the plugs, I'd greatly appreciate it. I think I have them correct, but when I turn it on, the main switchbox just buzzes, and nothing comes on. Oh, and I'm in New Zealand, so parts aren't exactly plentiful here [grin].
  2. I need a replacement motor for my Adler 30-15 post machine. The motor I had was a Westinghouse, 1/6 hp, 1725 rpm, Frame 145, style 1177109-C, open, AC motor type FH. (placard of motor attached). Please call or email me a price. Demps Bannerman demps@criticalpowersystemsinc.tech 662-401-8831
  3. This is for sale 1hr from me, is it worth it, and he says it works and to make offer was reasonable and what to look for if I go https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/783470918908546/
  4. I am looking at buying myself an industrial cylinder bed sewing machine. I mainly do small to mid sized projects like belts, wallets, bags, etc. I have been looking into buying a Cobra class 26 until recently I found a 10 year old Adler K269 single needle walking foot for sale for around $1700 for stand and everything. I am wondering if this is a good deal, and if it a high quality machine with similar capabilities as the Cobra class 26. Any information on this would be a huge help.
  5. I've got a Bernina 217 that I like a lot. My sewing is mostly sails, canvas covers for boats, and things like 'dodgers' (http://www.shipshapecanvas.com/canvas_dodgers.php) which involve sewing through both thick plastic and multiple layers of Sunbrella. What's not great is that the foot pressure is (somewhat) limited, and the bobbin is small. For really substantial jobs I'll haul out a Juki 562 (with no reverse) that I picked up amazingly cheap...but it's straight-stitch only, and has no reverse. I've got a chance to get an Adler 98-2-8. It's not a walking foot, which would be nice, but otherwise looks like a beefier machine than the Bernina, and at least one place I read said that it had a really strong feed, which would be great. I'd probably sell the Bernina if I got the Adler. Any thoughts? (Availability of parts? Quality of the machine? Suitability for these kinds of tasks?) Thanks in advance.
  6. I just purchased an Adler 467. It seems like a pretty amazing machine. It originally had the Efka V720 control system and the pneumatic controls for reverse, presser foot lift and It has the needle position sensor. It has magnetic solenoids for the thread cutter and tension release, and a DC servo motor. The machine has been simplified by removing the components, and now has a generic servo motor. I have read through gottaknow's thread troubleshooting an Adler 467 and learned a ton about the oiling system and what it took to get the machine going. Amazing resource and knowledge there. The previous owner removed the Efka system and installed a servo motor because the original control system requires a 230V AC, single phase input, as well as an air line and I don't think those were an option for him. Now that it has been converted, there is no knee lift, the needle position sensor is not able to be connected to the current servo motor for needle-down stopping, and the thread cutter is hooked up to anything. Also, the automated bar tacking / stitch reversing programs do not work. I have these features on my Juki N5550-6 and they are awesome! My short term goal with this machine is to get the machine cleaned up, oiled, and working with the generic servo motor and getting some generic knee-lift system working The machine does not have a knee lift for the presser foot as one of the pneumatic cylinders did that duty. Now that the air system is not hooked up, there is no way to raise the presser foot without using the lever behind the hand wheel. It's in an awkward position. In the long run, I would love to get it working like it was originally configured with the thread cutter, needle position sensor, automatic back tacking, and the pneumatic reverse and knee lift working. Any info on the Efka v720 that was on this Adler 467 would be awesome. I don't know if the motor and control system can be converted work on 110V, or if the entire control system and motor would need to be replaced to work on 110v. I can't imagine that would be cost-effective.
  7. Guest

    Adler 268-273

    Hi I am new in leather work and I just purchased Adler 268-273 dual needle post bed . It is very old but still going. Clutch motor will be swapped for Servo for sure. I will use it as double and a single needle setup but I have problem to find accessories supplier in Australia or anywhere else. I am after presser foots for single needle setup as matter of urgency. Any suggestions !
  8. Hi, I am brand new to sewing machines, I purchased a new double needle post bed sewing machine recently (ZJ24028-2) and I’m having an issue with the handwheel being hard to turn at 1st and now it does not turned at all, I oiled the machine and still nothing the bobbin case is empty there’s no thread or anything in it, I’ve looked online to try figure it out but I’ve found nothing to help me figure out why it won’t turn... id really appreciate the help thank you.
  9. So I’ve spent a little time on YouTube. I now know I’m going to need some shims for different needle sizes no big deal there since weaver carries them what else is a good idea to get for an Adler 205-370 to switch from canvas use to leather? I’m not terribly concerned about price since I picked up the unit itself for 900 as well as a consew 206 for another 500. ( I was stunned by the asking price myself, but they knew the original cost and that’s what they asked for). I figure a further investment in the right components is more than warranted I just know that a lot of the kit for my boss hand stitcher is seldom used so far And I’d like some opinions on what folks have found most useful I basically make leather armor, knife sheaths , holsters , belts, and pouches so far .
  10. Dear all, I asked this morning for a manual of the Adler 4 and 5 series to be shared with me. I have recently gotten a hold of a Adler 5-8 (for free) as I like old machines. But now am faced with trying to make sense of the individual parts and giving it a check that it actually works (according to the person giving it to me it works all right). I was offered a deal: photos for manual. Rationale: apparently there is a lack of images of these old maschineschrieb and spare parts. Ok, if that’s the case: I agreed. So here are the Fotos. any feedback would be appreciated. if you spot things on the machine that seem awkward, let me know. Any guiding is appreciated. As I wrote earlier today, the wheel turns smoothly, the needles is moving up and down and the „ship“ (the „metal surprise egg“ is turning). best MSAdler p.s.: why Do I want to check if it works? Because I won’t spent a lot of time restoring it if the eagle has no wings ...
  11. Hi all, today I picked up a fairly well used Adler 98, which I now want to fully service and restore, but I can’t seem to find any manuals online. There is a parts manual and the original sales leaflet, but I’m looking for the ‘how to’ manual. im pretty sure there is something wrong with the reverse function being out of time with something. hoping someone may have something stashed away on this or it’s derivative. i do love a zigzag machine! thanks Nick
  12. Hi everyone, I was hoping to gain some knowledge from some of the Adler experts out there. I’ve got an Adler 067 GK-373 and I’m having trouble with the thread tension. The trouble is not that my knots come up through the top all the time or the bottom all the time, but rather, even after dialling in the correct tension on a scrap piece from the same leather/project I am about to sew, I still get intermittent knots on the top and on the bottom (in the same run). They only show up every few inches and it seems to be worse when I am graduating from one thickness of leather to another (eg. wallet pocket layers), but they show up on straight stitching single thickness pieces too. I’ve scoured these (super helpful) forums and internet at large but nothing has worked. Things I’ve tried: - changing thread - following the thread path through the machine to make sure machine is threaded properly - watched the machine as it was sewing to make sure there are no snags anywhere - ensured that the thread cone is letting the thread off without snags - changing feet - holding thread back at beginning of stitch run - making sure I’m not accidentally touching knee lift at the wrong time - brand new bobbins - ensuring that bobbins are wound properly (as per manual and not to one side) - increasing bobbin tension and decreasing top tension - decreasing bobbin tension and increasing top tension - changing needle (in relation to thread size both up and down) - machine timing (as per Use Grosse super helpful videos on youtube) - I have throughly read the english translation of the mechanics guide for the machine and configured it exactly as the manual has suggested (eg. check all screw seats, needle entry, hook adjustment, needle guard, needle bar height, presser bar timing and height, feed dog timing and height, needle feed, top feed, foot lift height, check spring etc). - not lifting presser foot any higher than needed to release the fabric on turns - proper oil and consistent oiling The only thing I feel I have not tried is adjusting the bobbin case lifter but it doesn’t seem to be off as per the manual suggests. Below are two photos of the same piece/same run with problems on both the top and the bottom. I’m going nuts over this and it is slowing down my small batches tremendously. Any help would be sooo very much appreciated!
  13. Hi, I have an Adler 104-64, that is suddenly giving me problems. I am stitching two to three layers of heavy-ish belt leather, and have not had trouble before, but today, I can not for the life of me get it to stich more then 5 stitches before it starts skipping stitches, and then stops stitching completly... and when I look at the needle, some how the top thread is wrapped around the needle. I cut the thread... put it into the needle correctly, and same thing happens again. Any suggestion? Thank yuo i advance, for any help!! D
  14. Hello! We are a small leather goods manufacturer and we are consolidating our machine inventory! We have several industrial machines available. All machines are in used, working condition and are sold as-is. They have all been in use in a production facility most recently in December 2018. Please DM me if you would like more information in regard to pricing and photos. Please make an offer! If you are in the Twin Cities area, we would be happy to coordinate a showing for you. Please arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping - we have a loading dock for convenience. Cash only. We have the following machines for sale: Leather Machinery Fortuna 3443 Band Knife Splitter United-Carr M 235 Kickpress Judson L. Thomson 21. 2776 Kickpress Prym Press Pneumatic Snap Setter Schaefer TC 15 Topside Cementer Franklin Imprinting Machines A11593041 Hot Stamper Kwik Print 425 Hot Stamper Central Machine 37151 Metal Cutting Band Saw (x2) WSK PP-34F Pneumatic Embossing Machine (x2) USM Emhart Clicker Model B Brute Eastman Class 627 Table Knife Royersford Excelsior No. 10 Kickpress United-Carr M235 Kickpress Sewing Machinery (x3) Adler 267 Walking Foot - $900 Consew 206RB Walking Foot - $700 Consew 227R Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $1,400 (x2) Juki LU-563 Walking Foot - $900 Juki DLN-415-4 Needle Feed, 220V - $750 (x5) Seiko STH-8BLD-3 Walking Foot - $900 (x2) Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot - $1,100 Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot, HEAD ONLY - $700 Singer 111W151 Needle Feed - $500 NEW - Typical GC2263V Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $2,000 Thank you for your interest!
  15. Hey hey! I've recently bought a great little Adler 69-72/E 42. The previous owner had no idea what it was, and therefore was not much of a help with anything at all. There is one needle that came with the machine, a - Schmetz 120. I want to get more needles and I know I want them to be LR leather, so that my stitches have angle to them. Any help would be great, I have looked on lots of websites and all I seem to find is that the Adler 69's use the 134 system? Thanks!
  16. Hello! Any suggestion on European sites where i can find spare parts for Adler machines. Not just presser foot and bobbins! i am looking for this one!
  17. Dear sewers, I've come across this Adler 67-73t with Ac motor. It looks in poor condition. Hence the price of $114. Would this be worth giving it a try? I'm aware possible replacement of parts can be tricky to find and are more expensive. The seller says it's up and running smoothly. Also will the motor be enough for my purpose? I will need the machine for sewing bags from tarpaulin, up to 4 to 6 layers at a time. Is this a servo of some sort? Will include a picture of the motor details in a comment. Thanks in advance! Ac motor Adler 67-73t
  18. Sell sewing machine Duerkopp Adler 669-180010. Number of needles: Single needle. Stitch Type: Shuttle. Platform, type: Sleeve. With triple advancement. Energy saving stepper motor with needle positioning function. 750W, 1x230V. Table (height adjustable). Countertop 1200x550mm. Lamp. Suspended (folding on top) ruler adjustable 0-42 mm. A set of one-sided legs. Needles 134-35 LR 100, 110, 120, 130, 140 for 30 pcs. Bobbins Duerkopp. Duerkopp oil. The sewing machine was purchased from a Duerkopp dealer in Lithuania. In production not used. Condition: new. Ptice 3200 $ (or 2800 euros) + delivery from Riga (Latvia). Price without VAT. Delivery by transport company from Latvia. Shipping cost depends on the location of the buyer.
  19. I am looking for a good condition German made Adler 267. Would like head only but would be fine with complete setup if needed. Would like to have it shipped to Northern Utah
  20. Hello all - I have a Durkopp Adler 767-FAS-573 equipped with a Mitsubishi Limiservo X B series control and motor. It has a Mitsubishi XC-CL-2 foot lever unit. Here’s what’s happening: i went to change the auto backtack from two stitches to three. The machine was working fine. I made the backtack change and the presser foot no longer lifts at the end of the stitch or with partial backtreadle (programmed to go needle down, presser up). Troubleshooting: At full back treadle it does the end backtack and the thread trim cycle and the presser foot lifts momentarily when the thread trims. Therefore I know the pneumatic valve for the presser foot lift is getting signal and actuating. I reassigned the partial back treadle to the backtack cycle and forward treadle to foot lift. Partial back treadle worked properly on the backtack cycle, full forward did nothing. So I know the foot switch isn’t faulty. I reassigned the functions to as before and they work with the exception of foot lift. I looked at the locked out functions. Foot lift is turned on. Should work. Doesn’t. I did a factory reset of the control. Foot lift still isn’t functioning. Everything else works. I sent the control to a company who specializes in Mitsubishi controls out of NC with this info. I think they just did a factory reset and shipped it back, but they confirmed that the control is functional, no burnouts on the board. Still no foot lift. clearly the backtack pattern is the issue... changed it back, still no presser foot lift. help...
  21. Nearly new! Full automatic Durkopp-Adler 281 industrial sewing machine. Semi-dry direct drive machine, single needle.- Automatic thread cutter- Auto foot lift- Auto back stitching- Bobbin counter- Built-in bobbin winder- Semi-dry head- Direct drive (no motor attached to table)- 120VComes with the machine head, table, bobbins, thread stand, and more. Complete, and ready to sew.I used this machine to sew sample jackets for a couple months. Perfect for all fabrics, denim, garment-weight leather, and more. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhz5w7gczdvbq4h/AACn2fr9D8QyCxzuTWEL3Buaa?dl=0 Local Pickup in Central New Jersey. Looking for $850 or BO.
  22. We finally bought a sewing machine! Thanks for all those who have answered my previous questions. Now the fun part, learning how to use it We bought it from a lady who makes purses and wanted more room (she has a Pfaff 1245 and Adler 269-373). We paid 430 Euro ($500) with Jack servo and flat table attachment. She used it with thick threads and the stitches look good. She also gave me the number of her mechanic so he can come adjust it for us. It worked great when I tested it but I am already running into problems...to be expected since this is our first sewing machine. Can anyone tell me if this is a 69-373? The model plate is gone. It seems the the top right tension spring is missing and the tension release is not working. I am trying to get a list of parts to order. If anyone sees some parts missing or set up wrong please let me know, I would appreciate it! I also have some very basic questions, should I post questions here or start a new topic? Thanks!
  23. Hi all, I just purchased an Adler 205-64 (Super excited!!! :-). I am looking for an authentic Adler SP 966 rolling foot for the machine. I would like to stick with authentic Adler parts if at all possible on this machine. Message me if you have something that you are looking to sale. Thanks Rick
  24. After browsing new DA 867’s my local DA dealer told me about the 11 767’s from a recently closed factory that will be available with full automatic and programmable features and also with EKFA motors. The price he quoted me was $2,700 for one and he will let me pick the first of the 11 available. What do yall think? Good deal or spend double for a new but less equipped machine? Do all these bells and whistles such as programmable back tack, pressure foot adjustment at touch of a button, needle positioning, etc need to be there or is it just more stuff to malfunction in the future? He claims the machines are in very good condition. Please share your thoughts. I will be doing low production leather work making furniture upholstery.
  25. Hi guys and girls I recently came into possession of this vintage sawing machine. It seems to be turning well but I have no idea how to thread the machine and what needs to be done to make it work, without cousing damage to it. Do I have to oil it before use? Any info would be highly appreciated. Thank you. Mark from Prague
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