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Found 41 results

  1. Silverd

    Techsew 441

    Hi All, I have a two year old Techsew 441 that periodically will make a cluncking noise, skip a stitch then break off the needle. Typically this is when sewing thick leather, 10oz or so but has also done it on lesser material. I understand it has to do with how the needle path into the hook zone is influenced by the material but the problem appears to be getting worse not better. A recent project resulted in 8 or 10 broken needles and remaking of several components. Ive checked the timing using the Uwe system and it's spot on. I have renewed the hook assembly but have not made any lateral adjustmentso or shimming. Is anyone familiar with this behavior and its causality? Silverd
  2. I haven't posted in these forums for quite some time so hoping it's still fairly active. I got this saddle in for billet replacements but I've got the issue of not being sure how to drop the panels on an english saddle with the single roll up front, and I would just wiggle the needle up in there but this second rivet/tack is holding the flap down too tightly to get to the front billets(they all need replaced on both sides). I'm not sure if there is a tool that can safely get under the rivet, or if someone knows where to pop seams along the front on a single roll saddle and still be able to put it back together or do I need to just tell them that front billet is a lost cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've done billet replacements before but the saddles always had the double roll up front where you can easily pop and replace the stitching to just drop the underside down and out of the way.
  3. Hello, I am selling a shoe repair oven with infrared lamps used to revive the glue, as new (used only a few times). Heating temperature at 45°C in ~5 minutes. My price: 140 GBP. Retail price is around 450 GBP, check below: The item will be shipped from Romania. For UK the shipping cost is 30 GBP. For other countries I will check best shipping option at request. The item is listed also on ebay: If interested, please let me know. Best regards, George
  4. I do a lot of heel and halfsole replacements in the shop and unfortunately these days it seems our Vibram heels aren't holding up like they used to. I had two pairs recently that were down to the washers and I put them on four months ago. Amazonas are supposedly as bad or worse. Anyone have a good cowboy heel that may be a bit harder construction for concrete and field work?
  5. Im going to use this post to both say hello, new here and ask for some opinions and suggestions on my vest. Years back i did some leather crafting, cutting dying rivets, hand stitching, belts, wrist bands, boot straps nothing at all epic but not 100% green. So i came and joined to get some feedback on a leather biker motorcycle type vintage vest i have, i was in the music entertainment biz and have a show the vest is for, think mad max, zombie apocalyptic type thing, not all nice and new looking. Its well used weatherd which is what i wanted i hit it with lexol, and its nice but it has a couple holes about the size of your finger tip not a problem for the look i wanted but i dont want them to enlarge, They appear like drops of something caustic ate the holes, the edges are tatted raggedy and for lack of a better term seem rotten if i pick at the rought tatters it disintegrates, but the leather around them seem sound, a bit weird to me what ciuld have caused this. My first idea was take thin scrap leather and from the back of the hole one easy to get to the other not so much glue it on with something like shoe goo that wont get hard and will keep the hole from growing if stressed, but will still look like a hole. So if the hole is say dime sized how big should my backing patch be? im assuming you guys have better options and any opinions what caused weird holes like these, Many thanks cheers b
  6. I've been asked if I can help someone with three sets of boots and I'm looking for some guidance. This is my first time working on boots. Pairs 1 & 2: The owner recently recovered from a broken leg. The damage to her leg and the reduced activity has caused her leg, particularly around the calf, to become larger. She had one of the pairs custom made for her before the accident and she'd really like to keep them. For these two pairs I'm looking to learn the following: Are either of these candidates for stretching? (I'm am worried about the pair with patent leather at the top developing cracks if I attempt to stretch them -- she didn't even get a chance to use this pair before her accident) If stretching is viable, what is the best way to go about that? (I assume it would be best to refer to a shoe repair shop in this case?) Both pairs have a V-shaped relief cut along the inside of the calf (1.5" to 2" down and about 0.5" to 0.75" wide at the top) bridged with elastic. I was considering making this V longer and slightly wider. Is this a good idea? If making the V larger is the appropriate route, what type of elastic is this and where can I get some? Pair 3: The owner of this pair has a tendency to let her leg rub... a LOT. The interior lining still looks to be in good condition. I'm planning to cut away the frayed edges of the exterior leather, making a patch on the hole, and adding a reinforcement panel to both boots to make them symmetrical (only one of the boots has a hole right now). What I'm looking to learn here: What should I be wary of while making this repair? What leather is best for the job? (I am currently thinking of using lightweight black oil tanned)
  7. leatherpounder

    purse repair

    Does anyone have any experience with repairing ladies' purses? I've repaired like 5 purses in the last 3 weeks. Mostly by a referral by a shoe repair shop. If anyone has experience with this, what kind of method do you use for charging for repair? What kind of repairs do you do or NOT do and why. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.
  8. WISRepair73

    NEW Facility!

    Worldwide Industrial Solutions has moved to a larger facility to accommodate our customers better. WIS is the North American repair facility for Durkopp Adler. We also repair servo motors, drives, displays, circuit boards, valves and other production machinery. We not only fix your equipment but also put a video of it working on our YouTube channel for added customer satisfaction. If you are in need of a repair, parts, or a new machine to fit your needs let me know. I have a network of suppliers and OEM contacts to get what you need at a good price. Check out our website as well as Durkopp Adler for your machine needs. When it comes to the DAC control boxes (Echo - DAC3) I trained in Germany to repair them. WIS is also the only place with the testing equipment. Let me know if you need help with a repair or part. Worldwide 706-344-1480 ext. 103
  9. Hi to everybody! im looking for supplier OEM factory leather for car seats to do repair. thank you very match
  10. Game

    Juki LU 563

    Can you help with a problem I have with a Juki LU 563? The clutch does not re-engage the main shaft after resetting the clutch ( I cannot sew). I have tried pressing the right button while turning the belt drive wheel, in the opposite direction ( away from the sewer) according to the instruction manual. The wheel seems to be locked when pressing the button and does not correct the problem. In addition the the stitch length mechanism disengages the clutch each time I try to change the stitch length. Thank you in advance.
  11. Hello all, Looking for a rising (or setting) sun camouflage tool to match what is on this strap of this vintage sidesaddle. The saddle could be anywhere from 80-120 years old. The strap was broken and someone used nails to "repair" it. The owner said she will only replace the whole strap if she can match the tooling exactly. Otherwise, we trim, skive, overlap and stitch where the break is. I haven't seen this particular tool before so am hoping someone in the community has. If it's available, we would be ecstatic. Thanks in advance! Anita
  12. christiancowboycobbler

    ISO Supreme 60 or similar

    ISO supreme 60 shoe finisher/sander. I know what they cost new to ship so obviously I don't want to pay that much if possible. Any help is appreciated.
  13. christiancowboycobbler

    ISO supreme 60 finisher or similar

    ISO supreme 60 shoe finisher/sander. I know what they cost new to ship so obviously I don't want to pay that much if possible. Any help is appreciated.
  14. I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
  15. ThreeKingsDesigns

    Repairing Baseball Glove

    Greetings all! I'm a newbie and am learning so much from these forums. Thank you to all who contribute. I am currently repairing an old baseball glove with several more in the wings. The current one I'm working on ad some embroidery work on the thumb which I have successfully removed. Before moving on to dying it and reconstructing it to its original state, I'd like to fill those small embroidery holes. The people at Tandy told me to just condition the heck out of it....which I knew wouldn't solve the problem completely. I've seen some repair compounds / leather fillers out there on youtube and the like, but I am wondering if there is a simpler solution that someone has been successful with. I've seen one contributor recommend Magic Mender.....but I guess I'm just hoping that there is something a little more readily available or a hack that works just as well. Thanks in advance for your help!
  16. I've been working with an older Adler 69 machine to do some low-volume sewing of small leather goods out if medium-weight leathers. I purchased the machine locally about two years ago for about $2250 all in with tax and local delivery, etc. So far I've been less than satisfied with it. Here's a summary of the various issues I've had (you can assume that I've tried all all of the self-help I could think of such as needle sizes/types, different leathers, adhesives, threads, threading, cleaning, oil, etc.) : - Thread shredding: needle thread is shedding as I sew. It gets worse the longer I sew without stopping. In the worst cases it breaks. I've tried replacing the thread with high-end, brand-new #69 and it still does it. That last mechanic that I had take a look could not figure it out. - Bobbin thread tangles sometimes when starting or stopping stitching. - Stitch quality is inconsistent. Sometimes I get nice stitches (usually after I've been visited by a mechanic), sometimes the tension seems to waver causing needle thread loops to stand out on the bottom side (this is a more recent problem that I haven't been able to resolve on my own). - When I insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and pull on the thread, the bobbin thread seems to have inconsistent tension, sticking and releasing. I can't see or feel any burrs or debris. No mechanic has mentioned this before. I don't know when it started. - When it is actually sewing well, it doesn't handle sewing over transitions of material thickness very well. This has been the case from day 1, as I mentioned it to the sales guy in the showroom before taking it home. We thought it was a needle problem at the time. It will often skip a stitch or change stitch length when going over a particularly aggressive seam. This was surprising to me, as I've seen videos of less-expensive machines handling variations in thickness very well. - Deep scratches have appeared on my aluminum bobbins, looking as if they have been marred by a needle. This might be more recent. ---------------- And then are some things about the design of the machine that just sort of bother me: - Would be great to have a larger bobbin - I would love to have the presser foot operate by a knee lift rather than a dedicated pedal. - Overall, the machine feels old and clunky. Are newer machines more responsive/fluid to operate or is this the nature of the beast when dealing with walking foot machines? I have an older singer 591 machine for garment sewing that is a dream to work with. ----------------- I am relocating my studio in a couple of weeks out of NYC to rural NJ, where there will be a much smaller pool of mechanics who will be able to come service the machine. That said, it's hard to tell if the mechanics I've hired in the city have really been any good. Does anyone think this machine is fixable? I purchased it because a) it seemed to sew well in the showroom and 2) I really wanted to buy a non-Chinese machine. Now that my business has picked up a little I'm thinking of trying to sell this Adler before I leave the city and upgrading to something more reliable/fun. But looking at the options, if I'm not interested in a Chinese machine, I'm not really seeing any used Adlers or Jukis in the $3-5k range for sale right now locally. Ideally, the machine that I purchased originally would just work as its supposed to! But I'm worried that I purchased a lemon and it can't ever really do what I want it to for a long period of time. Please let me know if you guys have any advice. Thanks!
  17. I finally found time to install the new (original Juki!) Thread Release Guide part on my Tacsew T1563, a Juki LU-563 clone. I made a video to celebrate the occasion and document the process. Since the part is somewhat deeply nested and connected in the head, I had to take apart and put back together a good portion of the head, including removing the presser foot bar and various connected parts. So the video might be useful even if you don't need to replace that particular part. My thread release guide works as intended and the manual foot lift movements no longer catch and annoy every time you lift the presser foot. The new part itself was cheap at $7.33, especially for an original Juki part. When I checked, ABC Sewing Machine was the only U.S. vendor who had this part (Juki Part Number B14602460A0) in stock AND listed on their online ordering system. So props to them for that. So here's the video for your viewing pleasure and edutainment:
  18. onathread

    Consew 227R

    Hello to all! I have a Consew 227R, and was wondering if anyone knows how to get the presser foot regulating screw back "on" again? Yes, LOL, I loosened it too much, (it came off) and can't seem to get it to screw back in/on again. Frankly, I can't really seem to tell a big difference when it's tightend or loosened anyway. Does it have a "big" impact on the foot pressure, or does it just make slight adjustment? This machine is fairly new to me, so please be patient with me! LOL Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help! )
  19. I have two western saddles that I purchased used that have a similar type of damage. Apparently the previous owners used a saddle rack that was peaked rather than rounded and when the saddle was pulled off the rack the underside of the seat was torn, exposing galvanized metal underneath. I don't expect this will ever have an effect on the function or life of the saddle but it looks terrible. Any thoughts on how to repair this? I was initially thinking about moistening and stretching the ends back together and just stitching it but there is some of the original material missing now. I have never built a saddle or disassembled one to repair it.
  20. I am making a stitching horse ready for use, but I am perplexed about how to re-align the jaws. They are off about 1/2 inch. I am reluctant to remove the hinges and reposition them. Anyone run into this and have an idea how to best approach repair? Stitching horse is in excellent shape but for this. I have other pictures if it would help.
  21. One of my shell cordovan hides was stored with some papers against it. Four years later, I peel the papers off and the surface is gritty feeling and some color has come off. Is there a way to restore this?
  22. My Ferdco dropped a screw that is located holding side-connecting-bar to presser-bar-lift-link of foot lift components. This disconnection happens to be right by the upper tension post on my machine. Not sure if the screw went inside the machine /behind the face plate/ and is now waiting to wreck damage inside that housing. But as I'm studying this, wondering where to get a new hinge screw to replace the missing one, I'm wondering to myself if it is lodged someplace inside that cover. And then I see the thread-releasing-plate which is part of the tension post components is slipped out of position. My manual does not show what I need to where that tension release plate should line up relative to the upper tension disk. I'm overwhelmed. With orders to get out. And the only one working on Black Friday? And ideas about who sells parts to replace the missing hinge screw is appreciated greatly. And ideas how to talk to an expert on making these repairs, well, greatest appreciation doesn't cover it. Thanks, Lisa Picture shows pressed bar lift link at is point of detachment and tread releasing plate. I think I have to go into the machine behind the face plate so YIKES!
  23. Hello All, Please help save my Round knife. On the advice a neighbour I sent my Round Knife to have the brass ferule fixed. Please view the image of the result - they have ruined the knife. It is my favourite tool and have been using it for the last 20 years. Is it worth saving or repairing and if so how and where? Ideally UK based but willing to send further afield if needed. I believe that the newer versions of the same knife are not so good in quality (Osborne Round knife). Any advise welcome. #heartbroken! Kindest regards JCUK
  24. greenspider

    Can It Be Saved?

    Hi group. I have been playing with leather for many years now, off and on. I have a decent grasp of what I'm doing, within the perimeters that I'm working. That said, being only self-taught there is much I still do not know, especially concerning restoring old leather. My Sister brought me her handbag to see if I could clean it up for her. It had been in storage for many years and looked like it. After a full bottle of 'Fiebings liquid Glycerin saddle soap', some "Lexol Ph cleaner", several warm water rinses and a couple of rags (now destroyed) later, my rag stopped coming back caked with brown "gunk". I have no idea what I was cleaning off, an old dye paste wax? Years of crud accumulation? Both? Finally the leather started to look like I was making progress. I used some Lexol conditioner on it last night, so the color has gone dark. I assume it will fade in days!? (I (now) know that "before" pics would have gone a long way in helping to better understand where I was and where I am now, but it's too late for that now, so instead I offer pics of the situation as of now.) Here's a couple of pics showing the spots I am questioning. 1) The 'shiny' spots I assume are an old finish? What is it and how do I removed it? 2) Once I get it cleaned of the old finish I assume it will look like the areas that are now dull/leather looking? 3) At this point what do I do? Do I put more conditioner on it, and then put a coat of light dye on it? 4) Now for the "finish". What kind of finish would be best for this bag? I am partial to a natural finish, but I want it to have some protection. 5) The last image is of a scuffed area inside the bag. Can this be sanded with sand paper? Also the handles are rough. Do they need more oils? Could they be sanded smoothe? I recently read somewhere that that was an option in some cases. If anybody here would/could help me figure this out, I would be ever grateful.
  25. So I've gone and learned the hard way about ordering a sewing machine online... It's an Adler 169 which has been lengthened by an engineer. I won this baby off ebay and everything looked good, but it was damaged in shipping. Most of the knobs are bent or broken. I've ordered a new thread tensioner plate and will need to braze back on the end of the thread uptake leaver (if that works!) However, the worst of it seems to be that the end of the main shaft at the top of the machine is bent, right at the hand wheel (which may be distorted also). I think the whole thing was dropped on its end. Anyway, so my plan is to take this shaft out and have a machine shop straighten it for me, which apparently is a thing machine shops can do. Unfortunately, i'm having a hard time disassembling the thing. I'm also worried about reassembly. I know that I should be taking this to a professional, but I'm handy and don't live too close to anyone. Does anyone have experience in removing these things? I'm marking everything with a sharpie in an effort to not disturb the timing. Also, Does anyone know just how necessary the adjuster screw in the end of the rod is? Any advice would be soo greatly appreciated!! - Taylor