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Found 47 results

  1. A customer has asked me to restore a favorite saddle of hers and wants the wool redone as well .... Anyone have any tips on how to do this??
  2. I'm hoping this particular thread will do a couple things. Bring a better understanding of industrial machines for people that may be having trouble, educating those who are deciding to buy new or used. I do know that having a reputable dealer is worth a lot. Thanks to fellow member miaoreo for trusting me to repair her machine to a useable condition. There is a lengthy thread outlining her trials and tribulations with her newly aquired Singer 211G155. I have always been big on education and I hope to share some of what I've learned repairing machines for a living. This website is a never ending resource of information. I know my leatherwork has improved a great deal as a result. During the course of following her troubles, it was obvious to me the machine had been modified poorly and it had multiple issues. No sense beating a dead horse, so on to the issues I encountered: Top and bottom shafts were out of time. Hook timing was too far advanced. Needle bar height was off (I reset to original Singer needle and timed it using existing timing marks that you will now see. Removed original thread lubricator as bottom edge was sharp as a razor.(replaced with Singer guide) Hook compartment cover was wrong one, not enough clearance above hook (replaced with proper one) Replaced tension release pin (old one had been ground down) Replaced entire tension plate Hook was too far from needle. Needle guard was not adjusted. Tension post was bent. Tension release disk was wrong one for the machine.(replaced with proper one) Feed dog hole had been modified WAY too big (I replaced the feed dogs and throat plate to match) Replaced set screw for check spring (head was destroyed on old one) Replaced bobbin basket and tension spring. Latch opener was not adjusted correctly. Adjusted tension release correctly. There as surely some things I didn't list that I'll remember later, but you can see why a novice would have a tough time, though Mia was a real trooper! Regards, Eric
  3. Dear all, I asked this morning for a manual of the Adler 4 and 5 series to be shared with me. I have recently gotten a hold of a Adler 5-8 (for free) as I like old machines. But now am faced with trying to make sense of the individual parts and giving it a check that it actually works (according to the person giving it to me it works all right). I was offered a deal: photos for manual. Rationale: apparently there is a lack of images of these old maschineschrieb and spare parts. Ok, if that’s the case: I agreed. So here are the Fotos. any feedback would be appreciated. if you spot things on the machine that seem awkward, let me know. Any guiding is appreciated. As I wrote earlier today, the wheel turns smoothly, the needles is moving up and down and the „ship“ (the „metal surprise egg“ is turning). best MSAdler p.s.: why Do I want to check if it works? Because I won’t spent a lot of time restoring it if the eagle has no wings ...
  4. “Furniture Clinic” Professional Leather Care/ Repair Kit++ : Pick up only in Hamilton, ON Please view this ad: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-business-industrial/hamilton/furniture-clinic-professional-leather-care-repair-kit/1468645064?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android Price: $ 950 I am offering an amazing deal on everything you need to start your own Leather Repair Business, or for the leatherworker to do professional repair and dye jobs. I purchased all of this four years ago, but ended up pursuing a different career. 99% of all of this product is unused and as new. It has barely been touched at all. You get everything in the attached pictures and listed below. The manuals that come with the kit give excellent detailed instruction on every repair or colouring challenge you may face, and you can also call the makers, Furniture Clinic, for assistance or advice. The kit allows you to mix any colour needed. You can check out furnitureclinic.com to see what all of these products do. I am offering much more here than is in the kit they have on the website and it is all-together worth at least $1800 Canadian new. I am offering it all for $950. I am sorry it would not make sense for me to sell any items separately. It sells as one lot. Please see linked ad for all items included, as my formatting is lost here: 1 Litre Leather Ultra Clean, 1 Litre Leather Prep, 1 Litre Alcohol Cleaner 1 Litre Leather Protection Cream 500ml Leather Ultra Clean 500ml Leather Binder 500ml Leather Revive 500ml Adhesion Promoter 500ml Leather Finish Matt 500ml Leather Finish Gloss 250ml Cross Linker X 250ml Dye Fixative 250ml Leather Stain Remover 250ml Leather Degreaser 250ml Flexifil 250ml Heavy Filler 250ml Acid Wipe 150ml Leather Mousse Foaming Cleaner 100ml Leather Aroma Spray 50ml Grain Repair 50ml Leather Glue PU 15ml Grain Copier Hardener Half-bottle of Magic-Zymes Original Odor Eliminator 30ml Mixing Cups 35 x Plastic Pallet Knife Assorted Sandpaper, Scouring Pads, and Sanding Sponges Assorted Terry Towels, and Cotton Cloth Paint Stir Sticks Colour Matching Swatch Booklet and Guide Huge Stanley FaxMax Toolbox with Shelf, as pictured Rolling Case with many optional dividers for storage and transport Cleaning, Repair and Restoration Manual 14 Paint Strainers Syringe Tampico Scrub Brush 288 page Full-Colour “Leather Care Compendium” Book by Kim and Axel Himer 0.01 to 200g Scale (will require batteries) Daylight Magnifying Lamp for natural-light colour checking 5 x 1500 yard spools of High-speed bonded leather sewing thread 4 Sponges 7 x 250ml Leather Re-Colouring Balm in: Dark Brown Tan Maroon Medium Brown Ivory 2 x Black 16 x 250ml Pigments (Standard Colours) plus 250ml Matting Agent: JS Black HC LS Blue LC MS Yellow LC NS Red LC PS Green QS Yellow RS Blue HC TS Yellow Oxide US-N Orange VS Red HC WS Umber XS Black LC YS Red Oxide ZS Violet BS Magenta KU White All of this stuff manages to fit into the two transport boxes, so that you have a fully mobile business. I also have an Iwata Power Jet Lite Air Brush Compressor that I would be willing to part with for an additional $400, but you would need to buy your own airbrush. Using an airbrush is the most efficient and even method of applying dyes and finishes, rather than just using a sponge.
  5. Hi All, I have a two year old Techsew 441 that periodically will make a cluncking noise, skip a stitch then break off the needle. Typically this is when sewing thick leather, 10oz or so but has also done it on lesser material. I understand it has to do with how the needle path into the hook zone is influenced by the material but the problem appears to be getting worse not better. A recent project resulted in 8 or 10 broken needles and remaking of several components. Ive checked the timing using the Uwe system and it's spot on. I have renewed the hook assembly but have not made any lateral adjustmentso or shimming. Is anyone familiar with this behavior and its causality? Silverd
  6. I haven't posted in these forums for quite some time so hoping it's still fairly active. I got this saddle in for billet replacements but I've got the issue of not being sure how to drop the panels on an english saddle with the single roll up front, and I would just wiggle the needle up in there but this second rivet/tack is holding the flap down too tightly to get to the front billets(they all need replaced on both sides). I'm not sure if there is a tool that can safely get under the rivet, or if someone knows where to pop seams along the front on a single roll saddle and still be able to put it back together or do I need to just tell them that front billet is a lost cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've done billet replacements before but the saddles always had the double roll up front where you can easily pop and replace the stitching to just drop the underside down and out of the way.
  7. Hello, I am selling a shoe repair oven with infrared lamps used to revive the glue, as new (used only a few times). Heating temperature at 45°C in ~5 minutes. My price: 140 GBP. Retail price is around 450 GBP, check below: http://www.bicifestival.it/lavorazione-artigianale-pelle-bdd-1_26/forno-a-raggi-infrarossi-per-calzature-jlrhqclq-odd-1903.html The item will be shipped from Romania. For UK the shipping cost is 30 GBP. For other countries I will check best shipping option at request. The item is listed also on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Infrared-oven-for-shoemaking-repair-FORNO-A-RAGGI-INFRAROSSI-PER-CALZATURE/233017359077 If interested, please let me know. Best regards, George
  8. I do a lot of heel and halfsole replacements in the shop and unfortunately these days it seems our Vibram heels aren't holding up like they used to. I had two pairs recently that were down to the washers and I put them on four months ago. Amazonas are supposedly as bad or worse. Anyone have a good cowboy heel that may be a bit harder construction for concrete and field work?
  9. Im going to use this post to both say hello, new here and ask for some opinions and suggestions on my vest. Years back i did some leather crafting, cutting dying rivets, hand stitching, belts, wrist bands, boot straps nothing at all epic but not 100% green. So i came and joined to get some feedback on a leather biker motorcycle type vintage vest i have, i was in the music entertainment biz and have a show the vest is for, think mad max, zombie apocalyptic type thing, not all nice and new looking. Its well used weatherd which is what i wanted i hit it with lexol, and its nice but it has a couple holes about the size of your finger tip not a problem for the look i wanted but i dont want them to enlarge, They appear like drops of something caustic ate the holes, the edges are tatted raggedy and for lack of a better term seem rotten if i pick at the rought tatters it disintegrates, but the leather around them seem sound, a bit weird to me what ciuld have caused this. My first idea was take thin scrap leather and from the back of the hole one easy to get to the other not so much glue it on with something like shoe goo that wont get hard and will keep the hole from growing if stressed, but will still look like a hole. So if the hole is say dime sized how big should my backing patch be? im assuming you guys have better options and any opinions what caused weird holes like these, Many thanks cheers b
  10. I've been asked if I can help someone with three sets of boots and I'm looking for some guidance. This is my first time working on boots. Pairs 1 & 2: The owner recently recovered from a broken leg. The damage to her leg and the reduced activity has caused her leg, particularly around the calf, to become larger. She had one of the pairs custom made for her before the accident and she'd really like to keep them. For these two pairs I'm looking to learn the following: Are either of these candidates for stretching? (I'm am worried about the pair with patent leather at the top developing cracks if I attempt to stretch them -- she didn't even get a chance to use this pair before her accident) If stretching is viable, what is the best way to go about that? (I assume it would be best to refer to a shoe repair shop in this case?) Both pairs have a V-shaped relief cut along the inside of the calf (1.5" to 2" down and about 0.5" to 0.75" wide at the top) bridged with elastic. I was considering making this V longer and slightly wider. Is this a good idea? If making the V larger is the appropriate route, what type of elastic is this and where can I get some? Pair 3: The owner of this pair has a tendency to let her leg rub... a LOT. The interior lining still looks to be in good condition. I'm planning to cut away the frayed edges of the exterior leather, making a patch on the hole, and adding a reinforcement panel to both boots to make them symmetrical (only one of the boots has a hole right now). What I'm looking to learn here: What should I be wary of while making this repair? What leather is best for the job? (I am currently thinking of using lightweight black oil tanned)
  11. Does anyone have any experience with repairing ladies' purses? I've repaired like 5 purses in the last 3 weeks. Mostly by a referral by a shoe repair shop. If anyone has experience with this, what kind of method do you use for charging for repair? What kind of repairs do you do or NOT do and why. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.
  12. Worldwide Industrial Solutions has moved to a larger facility to accommodate our customers better. WIS is the North American repair facility for Durkopp Adler. We also repair servo motors, drives, displays, circuit boards, valves and other production machinery. We not only fix your equipment but also put a video of it working on our YouTube channel for added customer satisfaction. If you are in need of a repair, parts, or a new machine to fit your needs let me know. I have a network of suppliers and OEM contacts to get what you need at a good price. Check out our website as well as Durkopp Adler for your machine needs. When it comes to the DAC control boxes (Echo - DAC3) I trained in Germany to repair them. WIS is also the only place with the testing equipment. Let me know if you need help with a repair or part. Worldwide 706-344-1480 ext. 103
  13. Hi to everybody! im looking for supplier OEM factory leather for car seats to do repair. thank you very match
  14. Can you help with a problem I have with a Juki LU 563? The clutch does not re-engage the main shaft after resetting the clutch ( I cannot sew). I have tried pressing the right button while turning the belt drive wheel, in the opposite direction ( away from the sewer) according to the instruction manual. The wheel seems to be locked when pressing the button and does not correct the problem. In addition the the stitch length mechanism disengages the clutch each time I try to change the stitch length. Thank you in advance.
  15. Hi folks, I've started using a couple of machines that I've had for a while and was wondering what type of oil and grease you would use for it. My fabric industrial machines came with a few litres of clear machine oil (no label) which I use for them but I'm not sure if they could be used for these machines. I have a Pfaff 335-17B (Cylinder arm for Light-Medium weight material) and a generic 801 Skive machine (bottom feed, no brand name). The 801 Skive has a grease catchment in the top left corner and I don't think every oiling port is visible or I haven't noticed them, the manual that came with it was in Chinese and I downloaded an English version but it wasn't much help (diagrams were too small). With the Pfaff 335-17B I've found the oiling ports and painted a red ring around them. The other question I had would be when I've oiled each port do I run the machine with some scrap leather to clean off the excess oil or do I just wipe it off? Cheers, Jim
  16. Hello all, Looking for a rising (or setting) sun camouflage tool to match what is on this strap of this vintage sidesaddle. The saddle could be anywhere from 80-120 years old. The strap was broken and someone used nails to "repair" it. The owner said she will only replace the whole strap if she can match the tooling exactly. Otherwise, we trim, skive, overlap and stitch where the break is. I haven't seen this particular tool before so am hoping someone in the community has. If it's available, we would be ecstatic. Thanks in advance! Anita
  17. ISO supreme 60 shoe finisher/sander. I know what they cost new to ship so obviously I don't want to pay that much if possible. Any help is appreciated.
  18. ISO supreme 60 shoe finisher/sander. I know what they cost new to ship so obviously I don't want to pay that much if possible. Any help is appreciated.
  19. Hello, I am posting on here for some advice and help. I am very new to working with leather and am hoping to be able to fix this old saddle and get it back to functional light use. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for replacing the fender and what kind of leather to use. I've seen the new replacement fenders that you can buy already cut and ready, but I'm not sure if maybe that is the best route to go? I would like to get it looking as close to the other fender, if possible, but it is not completely necessary. I have not tooled before and am uncertain that I would be able to match the tooling pattern. Anyway, I was hoping to use it as a project learning opportunity. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  20. I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
  21. Greetings all! I'm a newbie and am learning so much from these forums. Thank you to all who contribute. I am currently repairing an old baseball glove with several more in the wings. The current one I'm working on ad some embroidery work on the thumb which I have successfully removed. Before moving on to dying it and reconstructing it to its original state, I'd like to fill those small embroidery holes. The people at Tandy told me to just condition the heck out of it....which I knew wouldn't solve the problem completely. I've seen some repair compounds / leather fillers out there on youtube and the like, but I am wondering if there is a simpler solution that someone has been successful with. I've seen one contributor recommend Magic Mender.....but I guess I'm just hoping that there is something a little more readily available or a hack that works just as well. Thanks in advance for your help!
  22. I've been working with an older Adler 69 machine to do some low-volume sewing of small leather goods out if medium-weight leathers. I purchased the machine locally about two years ago for about $2250 all in with tax and local delivery, etc. So far I've been less than satisfied with it. Here's a summary of the various issues I've had (you can assume that I've tried all all of the self-help I could think of such as needle sizes/types, different leathers, adhesives, threads, threading, cleaning, oil, etc.) : - Thread shredding: needle thread is shedding as I sew. It gets worse the longer I sew without stopping. In the worst cases it breaks. I've tried replacing the thread with high-end, brand-new #69 and it still does it. That last mechanic that I had take a look could not figure it out. - Bobbin thread tangles sometimes when starting or stopping stitching. - Stitch quality is inconsistent. Sometimes I get nice stitches (usually after I've been visited by a mechanic), sometimes the tension seems to waver causing needle thread loops to stand out on the bottom side (this is a more recent problem that I haven't been able to resolve on my own). - When I insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and pull on the thread, the bobbin thread seems to have inconsistent tension, sticking and releasing. I can't see or feel any burrs or debris. No mechanic has mentioned this before. I don't know when it started. - When it is actually sewing well, it doesn't handle sewing over transitions of material thickness very well. This has been the case from day 1, as I mentioned it to the sales guy in the showroom before taking it home. We thought it was a needle problem at the time. It will often skip a stitch or change stitch length when going over a particularly aggressive seam. This was surprising to me, as I've seen videos of less-expensive machines handling variations in thickness very well. - Deep scratches have appeared on my aluminum bobbins, looking as if they have been marred by a needle. This might be more recent. ---------------- And then are some things about the design of the machine that just sort of bother me: - Would be great to have a larger bobbin - I would love to have the presser foot operate by a knee lift rather than a dedicated pedal. - Overall, the machine feels old and clunky. Are newer machines more responsive/fluid to operate or is this the nature of the beast when dealing with walking foot machines? I have an older singer 591 machine for garment sewing that is a dream to work with. ----------------- I am relocating my studio in a couple of weeks out of NYC to rural NJ, where there will be a much smaller pool of mechanics who will be able to come service the machine. That said, it's hard to tell if the mechanics I've hired in the city have really been any good. Does anyone think this machine is fixable? I purchased it because a) it seemed to sew well in the showroom and 2) I really wanted to buy a non-Chinese machine. Now that my business has picked up a little I'm thinking of trying to sell this Adler before I leave the city and upgrading to something more reliable/fun. But looking at the options, if I'm not interested in a Chinese machine, I'm not really seeing any used Adlers or Jukis in the $3-5k range for sale right now locally. Ideally, the machine that I purchased originally would just work as its supposed to! But I'm worried that I purchased a lemon and it can't ever really do what I want it to for a long period of time. Please let me know if you guys have any advice. Thanks!
  23. I finally found time to install the new (original Juki!) Thread Release Guide part on my Tacsew T1563, a Juki LU-563 clone. I made a video to celebrate the occasion and document the process. Since the part is somewhat deeply nested and connected in the head, I had to take apart and put back together a good portion of the head, including removing the presser foot bar and various connected parts. So the video might be useful even if you don't need to replace that particular part. My thread release guide works as intended and the manual foot lift movements no longer catch and annoy every time you lift the presser foot. The new part itself was cheap at $7.33, especially for an original Juki part. When I checked, ABC Sewing Machine was the only U.S. vendor who had this part (Juki Part Number B14602460A0) in stock AND listed on their online ordering system. So props to them for that. So here's the video for your viewing pleasure and edutainment:
  24. onathread

    Consew 227R

    Hello to all! I have a Consew 227R, and was wondering if anyone knows how to get the presser foot regulating screw back "on" again? Yes, LOL, I loosened it too much, (it came off) and can't seem to get it to screw back in/on again. Frankly, I can't really seem to tell a big difference when it's tightend or loosened anyway. Does it have a "big" impact on the foot pressure, or does it just make slight adjustment? This machine is fairly new to me, so please be patient with me! LOL Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help! )
  25. I have two western saddles that I purchased used that have a similar type of damage. Apparently the previous owners used a saddle rack that was peaked rather than rounded and when the saddle was pulled off the rack the underside of the seat was torn, exposing galvanized metal underneath. I don't expect this will ever have an effect on the function or life of the saddle but it looks terrible. Any thoughts on how to repair this? I was initially thinking about moistening and stretching the ends back together and just stitching it but there is some of the original material missing now. I have never built a saddle or disassembled one to repair it.
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