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About gottaknow

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  • Birthday February 12

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial sewing machines since 1980, Facilities and Maintenance Mgr at Outdoor Research
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
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  1. gottaknow

    Juki 5410N H Questions

    The tube that runs from the oil pump to the top shaft can end up against the shaft that actually drives the pump. In time, it will cut through the tube. If you keep an eye on the sight glass, the oil should bubble up indicating the tube is intact. For a visual inspection, you can remove the back cover and actually inspect the small, clear tube. Regards, Eric
  2. gottaknow

    112W139 thread twist

    If the hooks are sharp and set correctly, no need for right twist thread on the left needle. Regards, Eric
  3. gottaknow

    Need Help with Singer111w155

    This machine will be a lot happier with top thread being T135. Regards, Eric
  4. gottaknow

    Modern high performance threads

    Bonded nylon is specified for the vast majority of tactical items for the DOD. A company I used to work for had a contract for suede welding jackets. Chrome tanned leather with Kevlar thread. The Kevlar thread isn’t bonded and it’s like sewing with dental floss. Your hooks have to be sharp and set very precise or it will fray while sewing. A buddy of mine that has been making hot air balloons since the 70’s uses UV rated bonded polyester which is about the nicest thread I’ve ever used. Strong like bonded nylon, but with a much softer hand. Sews like a dream. Regards, Eric
  5. The company I work for is a DoD contractor. Everything we produce for them has to be Berry Compliant. This assures US made textiles, including all the raw materials. I began working in a sewing factory in 1980, even then companies were exploring overseas options. The price of industrial machines has little affect on our bottom line as the ROI is very quick, long before the typical depreciation period. We also bypass the US dealers at a substantial savings. For the home hobbyist, a much bigger impact. We do import the vast majority of our non tactical items in order to compete in a very competitive market. NAFTA hurt the US textile businesses but it was the low overseas labor costs that really sank our ship. Regards, Eric
  6. gottaknow

    Has this ever been done?

    Love the ZeroMax. When run continuously, additional cooling is a must since they are entirely enclosed. Their endless configurations make them very usefull in a factory. They are however no joy to take apart to change a bent shaft (pretty common). Regards, Eric
  7. gottaknow

    Has this ever been done?

    Not that I’m aware of. A properly adjusted old school clutch motor is an excellent variable speed motor. Regards, Eric
  8. Juki’s come out of many different factories. Some are still made in Japan, most in China. Garment machines require lube that can be cleaned out of fabrics with an atomizer gun and solvent. Most lubes don’t meet this requirement so you end up with a bunch of oddball stuff nobody recognizes. The dry head system was developed because the machining tolerances are poor on the Chinese units, they couldn’t keep oil in the heads and it was costing factories a lot of money for cleaning sewn goods. They sold the catch phrase dry head when it should be called “we can’t keep the oil in”. The different lubes are likely a result of regional factory locations. Juki A is your best bet, it’s the most common over all their many classes. Regards, Eric
  9. A decent alternative lube is TriFlo grease. It’s a touch thinner than white lithium, but soooo slippery. I like it for used machines because it will loosen up a dry head making it quieter and smoother. It also doesn’t get pushed out with rotating components like thicker lubes do. Regards, Eric
  10. gottaknow


    The 1900 series has morphed over the years. Decent machine heads and inexpensive parts. Brother has however left them in the dust when it comes to their software. I have a highly modified 1900 for webbing applications and it never misses a beat. Regards, Eric
  11. gottaknow


    That clang at the end was the stop motion on Singer 269 class. Music to a mechanics ear.
  12. Singer 269 class bartack with a Camatron modification. One of the series of machine that taught me patience in the early years of my career. It was good clean fun until the stop motion got out of whack. My preference for old bartacks is the Juki 980 class. Regards, Eric
  13. gottaknow

    Sewing machine from china???

    We buy Brother and Juki direct from China. The savings enormous. That being said, Wiz is right about the support and warranty issues. For us it’s a non issue since we’re a factory with 3 full time mechanics. We’ll get the occasional bad control box, but just order another. We always check the settings, and trust me they sometimes don’t sew a stitch right out of the box. I always advise folks to use dealers, it just makes sense. Regards, Eric
  14. gottaknow

    Juki 1341 questions

    Actually we’ve had digital automation for more than a decade in sewing factories. Brother has led the way. We make gloves which lend themselves to automation with lots of little components. It’s expensive up front, but the ROI is usually less than a year, often much faster. Most hobby sewers can’t drop 24k on a single machine though. Regards, Eric
  15. I went yesterday to the factory where I spent almost 8 years of my career. I bought 3 pieces of equipment that will be a reminder of my time there. It was weird seeing the building so empty. I ended up with the Utica Mills combo slitter. I had rebuilt this machine 3 years ago, so I knew it was in good shape, and we needed another one. I bought a small heat press while I’ll rebuild, and a 5hp vacuum motor. It had been factory rebuilt a number of years ago. Factories use vacuum systems for various things. I obviously had a huge advantage in this auction since I knew all of the machines. Some people didn’t have a clue what they bought or what the machine actually did. I took a final look around and then walked away, making the long drive back to Seattle. I’ve had a long career and am currently working for the 6th apparel manufacturer during a 38 year span. Not bad I guess for an industry that has been devastated by importing. Regards, Eric