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About gottaknow

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  • Birthday February 12

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial machines since 1980. Facilities and Mechanical Ops Manager for Outdoor Research
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. The 1850’s are workhorses and I’ve never worked on a clone. This issue is often caused by worn or glazed cork surfaces which causes slipping during the final barring stitches which is basically the stitch that secures the entire bartack. The other cause can be the push plate needs to be tightened. This can also cause the underbed thread trimmer to not cut clean. To test, cycle the machine with normal thickness under the clamp. I use the handle end of a large screwdriver to press on the push plate during the entire run cycle. If machine cycles normally and produces a quality tack, there’s your issue. As a side note, don’t over tighten the drive belts which can prevent the drive pulley from moving easily in and out. Have fun! Regards, Eric
  2. Hello, I saw your reply to a post talking about direct drives and using them on Juki 3578A. I'm interested in getting one and the ones with a direct drive, auto thread trimmer, and comes with a control panel costs about $2k more. Would love to know your opinion on how much you like the thread trimmer and the control panel. Also, how reliable are their direct drive machines versus a belt drive? I'm just concerned that it's not as powerful (e.g. breaks down faster) considering the super compacted motor. 

  3. Hello I’m new to the group but I found your knowledge of the 211g155 singer very helpful. I have just spent a week trying to remove the feed dog screws let’s not talk about red lock tight for awhile lol but I have just timed the machine and now it’s picking up the bobbin string like it’s supposed to but now I’m having feed dog movement issues well it’s not walking the fabric is there anyway you can give me some pointers or some know how 

  4. Eric,

    How the heck are you? Miss you on the forum or maybe "I" just missed you.

    What are you up to these days?


    1. gottaknow


      I’m good Ferg. Working for a company that keeps me busy with a factory in Seattle and LA. Turning less screws but teaching a lot. 

  5. I was hoping you could answer a couple quick (hopefully) questions on this machine.  I bought this one from the Post Falls Filson auction a few years ago, but just got around to setting it up. 

    It sews good, but looks like it need a new shuttle, as the point had been hitting the needle.  I purchased one, but after looking at the machine, it looks like the feed bar needs to be removed in order do the replacement.  I can't really see how it attaches and was hoping you could shed a little light there.

    Also, it doesn't appear to be getting much, if any oil at the shuttle.  I turned the dial to max and cleaned out the pump filter, but still not getting oil on a piece of paper under the shuttle.  The top is getting plenty of oil (I removed to the top covers), and  I see a drip of oil about ever second in the window.  Not sure if that is correct or not.  I also don't sew at full speed (ever) - should I do something to set it up for slow sewing?

    Thanks for your help.


  6. Unfortunately no, the arm is just wide enough for an inline folder since it has to run inside sleeves. Also, any folder used on these machines should be spring loaded on the top half to allow a previously sewn lapped seam to pass through. Oh, and howdy Wiz. Regards, Eric
  7. On the curves, the fabric will want to walk out of the folder. Shove more fabric than you think you need into to folder. Lining up your seams takes practice as well. The bottom will want to continue to feed while the top will hesitate. Make sure your presser foot is moving high enough to allow the thickness of the stacked seams. Hold back the bottom ply and don’t pull on the top ply. Lastly, experiment with sliding your folder back just before crossing the seam and with the needles down, lift the presser foot slightly and push the top ply into alignment. It takes practice. Regards, Eric
  8. The little bit of tail thread stuff is normal. You can use smaller needles without doing much. Size 16 should be fine. The difference between the SH machine and lighter weight machines is the feed dogs and throat plate. That direct drive is a great motor. The hook oiler adjustment is common. After the machine is well broken in, you’ll probably need to dial it back a bit. Regards, Eric
  9. That’s a great machine, we have 50 of them in our LA factory. I’ll find a link for the manual you’re looking for. The length of the tail thread is controlled by the pre-tension. It should be 30-40mm long depending on thread and tension. It will vary. Regards, Eric
  10. I would drop the needle bar down and use the 135x17 needles. Easiest way to do this is to rotate the hook point into the scarf of the longer needle, remove the long needle and make sure you don’t turn the handwheel. Insert a 135x17 needle, then loosen the needle bar clamp. Tap the needle bar down until the scarf of the 135x17 is centered at the hook point (which hasn’t moved), tighten the needle bar clamp screw and you’re done. Regards, Eric
  11. Hello Gottaknow,

    I just joined Leatherworker last night. This weekend I bought a 211G155. I intend to use it for thick leather work. I have only run it one time since I’ve had it home and haven’t even threaded the needle yet. You seem knowledgeable of this machine and I’d like to ask a few questions.

    Can this machine be slowed way down so I can creep along? Currently it flies when I give the slightest pressure on the peddle.

    Is’nt this a walking foot machine? Currently both feet lower at the same time and it doesn’t seem to walk.

    What is the thickest thread that I can use for thick leather work?

    What is the best resource for thread and needles?

    I’m missing the bobbin slide plate to the left of the needle. Is this available somewhere?

    Thank you for any help you can give me.


  12. The tube that runs from the oil pump to the top shaft can end up against the shaft that actually drives the pump. In time, it will cut through the tube. If you keep an eye on the sight glass, the oil should bubble up indicating the tube is intact. For a visual inspection, you can remove the back cover and actually inspect the small, clear tube. Regards, Eric
  13. If the hooks are sharp and set correctly, no need for right twist thread on the left needle. Regards, Eric
  14. This machine will be a lot happier with top thread being T135. Regards, Eric
  15. Bonded nylon is specified for the vast majority of tactical items for the DOD. A company I used to work for had a contract for suede welding jackets. Chrome tanned leather with Kevlar thread. The Kevlar thread isn’t bonded and it’s like sewing with dental floss. Your hooks have to be sharp and set very precise or it will fray while sewing. A buddy of mine that has been making hot air balloons since the 70’s uses UV rated bonded polyester which is about the nicest thread I’ve ever used. Strong like bonded nylon, but with a much softer hand. Sews like a dream. Regards, Eric
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