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Ferg

Contributing Member
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About Ferg

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 01/21/1934

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  • Website URL
    namepuzzles4kids.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southwestern Ohio
  • Interests
    Anything I can do with my hands and mind

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Everything that is unusual
  • Interested in learning about
    everything
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    Web

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  1. You should look on that little plate under the round one for the model number. Makes it easier for someone to help you. Ferg
  2. I have dealt with AmeriKen, very nice people. I bought my "Manual" bender off eBay, it will help build muscles in your arms. I own several dies for the bender, they are expensive and you do not need a complete set of them to do what most of us intend for leather craft. I use the lightest weight steel rule since it is very difficult to bend the heavy material manually. You need one more very important piece of equipment, a small wire feed welder. Another expensive piece that will save you time and stress? A cutter made for cutting the rule. I have a modified hydraulic press with a composite plastic about one inch in thickness when new, for under the leather you are cutting. You will have no problem cutting leather that isn't above 5 or 6 oz. Obviously leather that is thinnner is easiest. When cutting thicker pieces temper the leather as you would for carving. Chrome tanned is tough and doesn't absorb water quickly. Wet the backside first then the front. Allow the leather to dry until it looks almost as it did without wetting. Baltic Birch plywood 3/4" (it is actually about 16mm or 17 mm). You will need a router setup to cut the grooves for the steel rule. Very important to have the correct size groove or the die will fall out of the cheater board. I buy special bits that are made for using with steel rule. I have a very large commercial CNC router for making my grooves. I am going to stop at this point of explanations since most folks begin looking at how much this set up will end up costing and say forget it. Any pieces I hope to die cut many of, I buy a shop made die. They are heavy steel, will cut thousands of pieces before sharpening, and are economical. Ferg
  3. Jane, I bought mine several years ago and gave $600 for the head. It had been redone to a certain extent. Refinished anyway. I actually got 7 spi out of it. Thread size is critical, #92 is max. There are a few parts available for them. If it sews without bumping and banging around it is probably okay for its age. BTW: that is the year date of mine. There are new decals available which I have just never got around to putting them on. If I had the option of electrified or treadle, I would take the treadle although I can sew as slow as you wish with mine. My next thought is they are "Fiddly" to use. Takes some practice to use them well. You are never going to use it for Horse Tack. I just like to look at mine. My wife thinks I am nuts anyway. lol I think of it as a working machine that was built in 1910 which makes it 111 years old. How many machines of any kind do we have option of buying that still work at that age? BTW: Singer needles of today work fine in them. Would I buy it? YES! And I still say if it actually works that is a good buy at $550 Keep us posted. Should be an interesting visit for you. If I was closer I would be delighted to go with you to see it. LOL I would sell you mine for a good price including the stand and Servo if you want to drive down here again. Ferg
  4. It seems you can get gold ink pens/markers. It would have to be sealed of course just like the rest of the piece. It certainly wouldn't be as "Fiddly" as gold foil and cheaper. Ferg
  5. Jane, That machine in decent working order is well worth the $550. I have seen one of the legs on the base for over $100. I have one, it is motorized with a digital. I really have very little use for it but it is restored and on a wooden pedestal stand I built. If you can get the head off the base it weighs probably between 80 and 90 pounds, the base would be close to that also. Don't try to haul it with the base attached. Ferg
  6. If using a low power, 3000Mw to 6000Mw Diode Laser it would be very slow and likely similar to Ray's situation. My 60W CO2 laser would probably take a few minutes Ferg
  7. I have a two head CNC router. Large industrial machine weighing 5000 #. I also have a "Drag Knife" that attaches into the collets of the heads. The knife is actually either a Exacto blade or simply a Utility knife blade. I can program it with the same G-codes used for CNC, the motors do not turn, you lock the router so it cannot free turn. Obviously everyone isn't fortunate enough to have a $120,000 CNC to play with since we retired. The drag knife attachment cost about $200. Uwe, you would love this thing! Lol Ferg
  8. You could cut 3 to 4 oz. leather with a small inexpensive diode laser, it would be slow. If you are thinking Chrome Tanned leather forget the laser. CO2 laser of 40W of power would cut about anything you want to cut in leather. It will stink and it will burn the edges black. Some manipulation of air assist, power, speed of cut, will lighten the edges somewhat, it will still stink. Think a dead animal being incinerated. On a budget? Go to Harbor Freight, buy a hydraulic press that has a jack with air assist, either do a little self build or have a friend with a welder provide the surface you need. There are hundreds of posts regarding buying and modifying these presses on this forum. Slower than a dedicated $5000 dollar clicker. With good dies you can cut a large amount in a relatively short time. I have two lasers, self built hydraulic press, and many knives. Believe me, you don't want to cut leather with a water jet. Laser cutting leather is messy at best. Ferg
  9. Easiest method for a one off: Use masking tape on your laser base. You didn't say what laser you have. Diode, CO2? Ferg
  10. Ferg

    Laser engraved oak

    I should have named it, "New stamp for leather. LOL Ferg
  11. The image was done in Solid Hickory wood with a 60W Omtech Laser. I am not fond of Chinese equipment but I will recommend this one 'til the cows come home. I have had it for little over a month with "0" problems. It has done everything I wanted with perfection. Second photo is an impression in dampened leather made by the wooden engraving. I am not advocating everyone to make "stamps" from wood. I simply thought it to be pretty neat. Ferg
  12. I did not buy a GlowForge. They are highly advertised and look nice but I didn't wish to have to go through a company to get anything I want to use for additional money. That said: I bought a 3000Mw diode laser to practice on. Sufficient for that purpose, biggest problem is the low power and they are very slow. Dove into the big boys. Orion 60W CO2, Chinese Laser. With the crate it had a delivery weight of 400#. It is a floor model. Out of the crate it worked perfectly and has continued to do so. I simply could not afford an American made with nearly the same specs. I use LightBurn software and wouldn't be without it. Also use Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. Have a daughter who is a professional graphic artist. I intend to do some leather engraving, have been so busy with other items I haven't had time. My laser will do leather, wood, glass, anodized aluminum, cork, fabric, plastic, ceramic tile, marble, etc. Enclosing pics of a couple items I have made. Second one is on 1/4" Baltic Birch, first, is a vintage photo on 3/4" Hickory Ferg
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