Ferg

Wiz, Every time I read one of your posts with all your machines listed I think of what my wife says about all the equipment I own and some I haven't used for so long. "Why don't you sell it?" For the most part no one wants to pay what you feel is fair, so it still rests in my shop and shed. Love to hear about the old machines. Had a good friend who was a shoe repairman. He had all those old machines and the entire shop smelled of lubrication oil and leather dye at the same time. He sold all of his shop before he died and I simply didn't have the $2500 or so to buy it.

I have a Consew 206 RB5 made in Japan by Seiko. First industrial sewing machine I bought. I love the machine and use it for everything from wallet insides to medium heavy belts. Machine will not sew well with anything above 138 thread, I have used 40 and primarily use 69, 92, and 138. Needle size is extremely important. My machine came from a distributor who didn't set the machine up for leather. With an awful lot of help from Wiz on this forum I managed to get things adjusted and set to sew anything I wish even my dungaree cuffs. Do you have a manual? If you do not I can make a copy for you and send to your address if you pay the postage. It isn't a large manual and has a car load of info. Industrial machines have to be set up correctly if you wish to do anything with them. Anyone not motivated to get all the info available, I don't mean You Tube, has no business buying an industrial sewing machine. Just my 2Cents.

My 2cents: Why don't you layout your design so you have enough design to do less than half the belt area you need for the design. Leaving several inches of space between the two designs in the "rear" portion. You don't need to be quite as fussy with alignment but it shouldn't be any big deal. Worth a try?

Are you interested in the drop downs I have?

Tie a slip knot at the loose end.

I have two drop down roller guides: Pictured below is a GB-6. I used it on Cowboy and Consew. I have two guides for this unit/kit: Roller and straight edge. $25 plus shipping Second photo is drop down I bought from Honeysew, I am positive it was made in China and is very well made. I used these guides on several of my machines of different manufacturer with excellent results. Excellent condition for both of them, I don't see any scratches or anything on them. This one is $25.00 plus shipping also. I never had to drill an extra hole.

I have to reply to this thread. Have some of Jim's books, have never had the time or money to go to one of his classes. Seems business for him was slow several years ago when his son was taking care of selling books. Think I may have bought more than one at that time. His written instruction is equal to his in person teaching. BTW: When I sold the last of my stamps it was the last of over 300. Fortunately I bought many of them when serving in the Navy and didn't have a wife to look over my back. Sure miss being able to stamp leather. Some things happen when you are ninety years young. Anyone with the slightest possibility of attending one of those classes should bite the bullet and sign up.

This item has sold.

My last offer: $2400 PayPal or cash for machine etc. and I will pay shipping up to $150. I know everyone is in a bind these days.

Machine is like new. Few hours sewing. Works great! Health issues require me to sell a lot of equipment. Includes complete table unit with servo motor, several packages of needles, LED Light, drop down edge guide, and Thread stand. Asking $2600 plus shipping. If anyone who is interested in machine can pick it up at my home in Southwestern Ohio I will sell entire unit for $2500 PayPal. If paying cash you can pick-up for $2400. Any questions?

Thank you everyone for your kind remarks, I really appreciate it.

At least two years ago I decided to begin thinking about making my wife a new purse. Present one about five or six years old. Was thinking I would have some wood and leather involved with brass trim. Arthritis and other difficulties put the effort off until a month or so ago. No rolled edges, fingers won't let me do much of that. Wanted to highlight the brass, hickory wood with laser engraved images, and a beautiful piece of leather I bought several years ago along with an entire hide of Kangaroo for the interior. Those nail heads are actually the top of solid brass cap nails 5/8" in length. Drilled a hole just slightly smaller than the nail shanks, placed a drop of Super Glue on the holes and drove the nails. Stitched 1/8" from edge of leather completely around all edges and pockets. Pocket on back side with two interior pockets of kangaroo, (only one interior pocket visible in photos). Fastener has four small magnets to hold flap. Normally make the shoulder straps with two layers of leather, backside same as interior lining kangaroo and face side matching purse body. Kangaroo skin wasn't large enough to make straps. Interior pocket in last photo is large enough for her cell phone along with another small wallet that just happens to be kangaroo leather. Inside front pocket is smaller in height. Strap (one inch wide) ends at the wood panels are connected to solid brass fittings which are bolted to wood with Brass Chicago Screws. Hickory gusset ends are 5/8" in thickness, 8 1/2" tall and 4 1/2" wide at widest portion. Purse width is 12" side to side making the interior 10 3/4". No wooden stretchers inside purse. Wife has carried purse twice outside our home so it has a bit to get broken in. It was a "Bear" to put together since both ends had to be assembled at same time. I use a lot of gel contact cement on my projects. Leather was cemented to wood edges before I installed the decorative nails. No finish or burnish on the edges of leather, another difficult task if I had decided to do that. I am sure someone may have a question or two..... BTW: She loves the purse. I gave it to her Christmas Eve.

For someone who has gone the shoe etc. route until Arthritis killed the venture, you done a good job for your first time. Second one is always better.

For a cheap ? option you can use masking tape. Sometimes the blue tape for painting is okay. I usually have both on hand if the less sticky doesn't stay put. Roll it down good on the leather, laser, spray color, let dry, remove tape. Don't allow the tape to stay on leather for too long. Just enough for the paint/ink to dry.

Not a doggone thing. For crying out loud! I was simply suggesting that if he didn't have a hot press but obviously does have a laser, it would be more economical. And I thought I was edgy.

I think the OP was asking about how to do it with laser. Of course it could be done with hot stamp press but he already has the laser. Lol

The simplest way I know of is to mask the leather completely, laser through it and spray the color you wish into the engrave, allow to dry to the touch then remove masking. It is important to allow the paint/ink to dry but not allowing the masking to remain for long time since some times there are small indentions in the leather that allow the spray to penetrate under the masking. Most of the time you can remove unwanted color from surface without damage to leather A spray to seal the leather and the coloring used works best. If you apply a sealer with a cloth you will have the color migrating all over the place. I engrave leather by dampening the leather before engrave, results in better rendition. Color on the engraved portions is tricky at best, practice on a piece of scrap.

I have the 60W Omtech. It is actually 50W. Bought 2 years ago this month. I love the machine and have little to no trouble with it. Lasers have a steep learning curve if you desire to do great work with them. The air assist in the Omtech as well as some others is worthless. Get/use an oilless air compressor with a good quality dryer or separator. Water droplets will ruin the lens. Use about 20psi air for engraving, around 40psi for cutting wood. I used a five gallon bucket of water adding frozen water bottles for almost two years with no problems. Bought 5200 chiller this year and it works perfectly and I don't need to keep running to the freezer. Use and learn all you can about LightBurn software. Best there is. I believe Omtech packages LightBurn with the laser I am not sure of that. They do also sell it. The Omtech 60W is a perfect size for doing wood engraving and cutting plus engraves leather perfectly. Keep the laser clean and adjusted, you will likely never feel you wasted your money.

My wife got her diagnosis seven years ago. When she told me, I lost it. This lady is the love of my life. We have worked side by side in our various business ventures for almost forty seven years. The very thought of losing her was something I was not prepared for. Her undying faith and refusal to give up helped her healing I am sure. My mom, one brother, brother's wife, and only sister died of this dreadful disease. Unfortunately neither of them had early diagnosis. I have three younger brothers. Two have cancer one has stage five kidney disease. I have been blessed with relatively good health my entire almost ninety years. My wife and I offer our prayers for any and all of you experiencing the effects of this terrible disease.

If you are using a Diode laser the holes would be larger. My CO2 Omtech can cut/burn some mighty small holes. Smell on cut leather can be minimized by using "Ozium" spray. Don't breath the spray. When I use it I spray in the shop and leave for 10 or 15 minutes. Makes the shop smell good. lol

I have the following: This one Pricking iron. Never used, notice dip plastic coating. $50 plus shipping in USA

Sorry it took so long for my reply, shop computer decided it didn't want me in LW. I can either transfer lines that are just legible or a slight cut/engrave such as in the photo. The cut would almost eliminate the swivel knife use. Depending on depth cut on the lines. Ferg

This is a laser cut pattern for a wallet in wood. I will cut one in leather tomorrow. Presenting this to see if there is any interest in my persuing an inventory of patterns for leather tooling and/or a pattern you may have of your own. Patterns could be e-mailed with at least 72dpi, 144dpi is better. A number of particulars to be ironed out, I am not going to do that until I see if there is any interest. Ferg

I own the Consew 206RB-5. Great machine, have owned it about six or more years I think. Never have had a problem with it. Never needed manufacturer help. Uses popular needles and will sew forever. Ferg

I have a roll of stainless steel cloth.